My Weldless Build Using Strut

[jeeppilot]

Well, I finally got my strut back from getting ceramic coated and put it all together. The cost was much more than I was originally quoted (another story) and ran $300 for 25 feet!! Because of the misunderstanding, they charged me $200, the cost of the material only. However it does look very sharp and the coating appears thick.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457915885.464312.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457915902.396328.jpg

Fired it up with the BG14 first and not even 10 minutes in, smoke starts rolling! Shut it down, and quickly can saw the ceramic coating is boiling!! This stuff was supposed to be good to 1200 degrees and is used for engine headers.

Moral of the story, ceramic won't take the heat. Go with stainless, or just burn off the galvanization. I'm out $200 and now have to go buy stainless at another $200 and I can't brew for another couple weeks. [emoji35]

 

[aangel]

I ended up deciding to go with mild steel with a 2000 degree rustoleum coating for my my stand top.

 

[Carlscan26]

Did you have the galvanized finish removed before they ceramic coated it?

 

[jeeppilot]

Did you have the galvanized finish removed before they ceramic coated it?

Yes, they sandblasted it down to the bare steel before hand.

 

[jeeppilot]

I ended up deciding to go with mild steel with a 2000 degree rustoleum coating for my my stand top.

How is that holding up to the heat? What burner and what if any heat shielding are you using?

 

[b-boy]

I think propane and NG can both burn at close to 2000 C, so it will be tough to get a coating that can handle that kind of heat. The fact that it's a direct flame doesn't help. The temperature at your burner will probably be lower, but it will still be pretty hot.

I think SS is the way to go if you're concerned about the galvanized stuff. You can do a mixture of galvanized and SS to save a few bucks. You just need to carefully design the stand so that the flames only touch SS.

 

[aangel]

How is that holding up to the heat? What burner and what if any heat shielding are you using?

I'm building it next week so I can't report on it yet. The Rustoleum itself is only rated to 2000F/1000C so I'm actually kind of concerned now. On the other hand, from what I understand there are many mild steel brew stands with rustoleum paint jobs that don't rust...so maybe it'll work. Either that or the Rustoleum stops working and hides the underlying steel starting to rust.

 

[k1ngl1ves]

If I remember right I got the Pre-galvanized stiff. A few pieces are the green pained ones I found hiding in the corners at work. I am not concerned about the steel being weathered because it will only be outside wile I am brewing.

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it!


This is what I decided. Green strut for the base and legs, and mild steel struts for the top.


There are steel tables at my work. We clean them with Simple Green, wipe them dry, then coat them with a rag sprayed with WD40. Then we wipe them clean before the next use. Not a spot of rust, and they're over 20 years old and stored in a garage. We use them for just about everything and no issues. So that's my plan.

I worried about the WD40 igniting even though it was wiped clean, so I took a torch to a table at work... no fire! Whooohooo! Lol! So no worries there. Better to check at work than in my garage. Lol!

 

[bierdeblanche]

Is there really a point in getting a SS top if the galvanization can burn off?

 

[aangel]

Is there really a point in getting a SS top if the galvanization can burn off?

The zinc will burn off. And poison you as it burns off. And also expose the mild steel underneath to rust.

 

[bierdeblanche]

The zinc will burn off. And poison you as it burns off. And also expose the mild steel underneath to rust.

Further reading indicates that yes, it is a bad idea to just burn it off. Explains many things about my family from the deep south and their "projects"

The question is, just how much of the top is necessary? Due to how these things are built, everything that is above the plane of the burner?

 

[aangel]

Further reading indicates that yes, it is a bad idea to just burn it off. Explains many things about my family from the deep south and their "projects"

The question is, just how much of the top is necessary? Due to how these things are built, everything that is above the plane of the burner?

There are options to remove galvanization. Acids weak and strong (vinegar, muriatic acid, etc). Maybe some iron oxide removal agents. I'm using Metal Rescue at the moment, will report back on how that works.

 

[bierdeblanche]

There are options to remove galvanization. Acids weak and strong (vinegar, muriatic acid, etc). Maybe some iron oxide removal agents. I'm using Metal Rescue at the moment, will report back on how that works.

Aren't these "fire" or hot-dipped galv?

If so, acid isn't going to work. I think you'd be better off grinding - a lot safer, too.

I think for mine I'm just going to pony up for the SS and not worry about it.

 

[aangel]

Aren't these "fire" or hot-dipped galv?

If so, acid isn't going to work. I think you'd be better off grinding - a lot safer, too.

I think for mine I'm just going to pony up for the SS and not worry about it.

Acid works on galvanization coatings:



'tis a dramatic reaction. I should note that my previous statement about using Metal Rescue was in regards to removing mill scale and rust (not galvanization).

 

[bierdeblanche]

Acid works on galvanization coatings:

youtube

'tis a dramatic reaction. I should note that my previous statement about using Metal Rescue was in regards to removing mill scale and rust (not galvanization).

Right, but it's a lot more difficult to do on hot-dipped galv, which is what galv strut is.

It would be a lot safer, and easier, and less time just to grind it off.

That guy in the video has a good point about the inside and grinding.

I know most conduit is hot-dip galv, no idea if what he's doing is hot-dipped.

I do know that he should be wearing a gloves/goggles and you should have a fan on that blowing away from you if you're doing it...

Also, for people reading:

Always
Add
Acid

Water first, then you add acid, otherwise you risk splashing acid everywhere because acid and small mounts of water boil and gets everywhere.

 

[rubthisbbq]

Just want to thank everyone this thread has been great!! Took a couple weeks to read while I planned and order they stuff. Started the build and got about 75% cuts done. As you can see not a CAD or Google sketch type and adjusting as I go. Trying to build a 3 tier stand as short as possible since I'm not that tall. Can't wait to start to assemble

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[gifty74]

Awesome! Looks like you have it pretty figured out!

 

[xdalisx]

I bookmarked this thread in early 2013. Well, I finally got around to building my own stand. Basically copied LuisInIdaho's build from earlier in the thread as it fit my needs pretty with already having the Blichmann Burner. Ordered a second burner & pump yesterday and am about halfway through putting the strut together.

Should be finishing the framing & mounting of one burner tomorrow & I will post some pics.

 

[LuiInIdaho]

I am looking forward to seeing your stand. I enjoy mine.

 

[LuiInIdaho]

I bookmarked this thread in early 2013. Well, I finally got around to building my own stand. Basically copied LuisInIdaho's build from earlier in the thread as it fit my needs pretty with already having the Blichmann Burner. Ordered a second burner & pump yesterday and am about halfway through putting the strut together.

Should be finishing the framing & mounting of one burner tomorrow & I will post some pics.

Looking forward to seeing your rendition!

 

[xdalisx]

Finished with the strut. I used an angle grinder to notch the steel & then a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. The sawzall cut through it extremely fast, but some of the cuts came out a little at an angle as it liked to jump around. Took 4 blades to get through all the cuts (though I made about 6 cuts too many). The slight angle on some of the cuts wasn't a big deal as the fittings to most of the alignment.

Still waiting on 2nd burner & pump - & I have added casters since the below photo.

I'll update as I add.

 

[hedbutter]

Subscribing

 

[Msylvester0616]

AWESOME FORUM!!! I am about to embark on a strut build and doing some cost analysis. I couldnt find a straight up answer but 304 SS or galvanized strut? i know it may be a cost thing but just have to ask? is it worth the massive extra cost? and for anyone who has used galvanized.... how are your brewstands holding up? how many brews have you done on them?

I attached a pic of my strut build. any comments on the layout would be appreciated?

 

[Msylvester0616]

also what about silver electoplated??? what ever that is?

 

[sweetcell]

I couldnt find a straight up answer but 304 SS or galvanized strut? i know it may be a cost thing but just have to ask? is it worth the massive extra cost?

it's mostly a cost thing, but there is also a health concern: the first time (first few times?) you use a galvanized stand, you will burn off the galvanization. the fumes are toxic, so light that baby up and step away for a few minutes, don't stand downwind, etc. once burned off you're safe.

stainless can always be cleaned, so it'll look shiny as long as you're willing to scrub. for galvanized, once the coating is burned off and the underlying metal exposed, it will start to rust a little, you won't be able to clean off burned wort (unless you grind it off, maybe?), etc. so if the appearance of your stand is important, go with SS.

i imagine that a SS-topped stand will last longer... but that seems like a theoretical concern. do you really need a stand to last 10+ years? and if the top level of a galvanized stand is falling apart, just replace it (assuming you can still undo the bolts, all those years and gallons of spilled wort later...)

I attached a pic of my strut build. any comments on the layout would be appreciated?

obvious question, but what size are your pots? as long as that is sized correctly for the 16" width of the top level, your design looks good to me (for whatever that's worth...)

also what about silver electoplated??? what ever that is?

i imagine it's strut with a very thin coat of silver on the outside. i've never heard of it. is it cheaper than stainless?

i would be concerned that the thin electroplated layer could be scratched or worn off, given the use that it will be put to.

 

[hedbutter]

Finished my strut stand this week! Now I need to mount the pumps and water filter and I'm good to brew

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[Hwk-I-St8]

I've noticed that this thread, like most of the brew stand threads, is heavily dominated by the keggle crowd. I'm a kettle/cooler MLT/Batch sparge guy, but I'd still like to make a stand similar to the ones here for my rig. I read through this entire thread (yeah, crazy right?), and I really see very little that matches my ideas and process. It makes me wonder if I'm doing it wrong. Here's what I'm doing today, what I'd like to do and the rig I think will support it. Let me know if you've got any improvements in my process given the equipment and approach I have.

I heat my strike water, then dump it into the MLT cooler. I dough in the grains, mash for 60 mins, vorlouf and drain the first runnings. While the mash is going, I heat my sparge water and dump into a round beverage cooler which is used as a simple HLT while I'm taking first runnings into the kettle.

Next is a simple batch sparge: dump from the HLT cooler into the MLT cooler, stir, rest 10 minutes, vorlauf and drain into kettle which is already heating up.

Boil, whirlpool, chill, pump into my fermentor using a siphon aerator to oxygenate the wort.

Currently there's lifting, dumping etc that I'd like to get away from. The only gravity I use is to drain from the MLT to the kettle. I'd also like a simple, compact rig that's easy to setup and easy to store.

Now the proposal, with a few caveats. I really don't want a 3 tier system because I don't want something that is 7' tall (I see pictures with ladders next to the HLT all the time...don't want that). I want to minimize lifting and dumping of hot or boiling water which I think is really dangerous.

Use the attached diagram for reference. An alternate design has the burner on the floor which shortens the cart and allows more separation between the cart and burner if desired.

Heat strike water. Use pump to pump into the MLT. Dough in and mash as usual. Heat sparge water while the mash is going and pump to HLT for holding during first runnings. Vorlauf, drain first runnings (using gravity) into kettle and begin heating.

Use pump to pump sparge water from HLT to MLT. Stir, let rest, vorlouf and take second runnings as before. Begin boil.

Whirlpool using pump, chill and pump to fermentor as I always do.

I have quick connects on my silicone hoses, so it's easy to change over the pump for various uses. I use an existing burner, so no issues with galvanized steel as part of my burner. No lifting, no dumping. Plus I have a cart that I can roll to the side of the garage when not in use (and store my stuff in). I plan to buy a grill cover to cover it when not in use.

To start my brew day, simple roll the cart to the middle of my garage, connect the burner and start heating my strike water.

So, is there a flaw in my thinking and plan? Why isn't anyone else doing it this way? What can I do to make it easier, more simple and better functioning?

 

[kirbcheck]

There's no reason your system won't work. But you're going to have to pump the Lautering water UP to the MLT. I do this with my system, but it's for the purpose of using the HLT as a second boil kettle if I'm doing a Parti Gyle (Which is minimum of twice a year). If it were me, I would raise the HLT or lower the MLT to gravity feed that portion of the system. I'll attach a photo of my rig for you.

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[Hwk-I-St8]

There's no reason your system won't work. But you're going to have to pump the Lautering water UP to the MLT. I do this with my system, but it's for the purpose of using the HLT as a second boil kettle if I'm doing a Parti Gyle (Which is minimum of twice a year). If it were me, I would raise the HLT or lower the MLT to gravity feed that portion of the system. I'll attach a photo of my rig for you.

That's true, but for a batch sparge it doesn't seem like a big deal. If I want gravity from the HLT to MLT and gravity from the MLT to the kettle, that requires a 3 tier system. I guess it doesn't matter much if the HLT is high....I don't really need to be able to see into it if I trust the volume I pump to it.

With a batch sparge, the sparge water volume is obviously critical.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Here's an alternate approach: