Nice!
Do you have build pics?
What kind of enclosure is that?
I used velcro to stick the SSR and terminal blocks down in the box.
You don't want the SSR to move around and possibly short against the box or other metal inside. I assume that's what Sawdust was talkin' about.
I plan on building a second beer set up and was planning to use almost the same equipment you chose minus the switches and Velcro!
Anyway, I'm going to work on a detailed guide for anyone attempting this with a similar level of expertise to mine. I'm an English teacher so a number of things became obstacles to get around. Although most of what I needed to know was in the PID manual, I didn't really read it all because so much of it was over my head. Hysteresis band, etc. Wound up skipping the part that told me the default thermocouple settings.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to inaugurating this puppy this weekend. And, humiliating as it will be, writing a detailed step by step for us non engineering types.
Cheers guys!
Anyway, I'm going to work on a detailed guide for anyone attempting this with a similar level of expertise to mine. I'm an English teacher so a number of things became obstacles to get around. Although most of what I needed to know was in the PID manual, I didn't really read it all because so much of it was over my head. Hysteresis band, etc. Wound up skipping the part that told me the default thermocouple settings.
Just wondering if you ever got that tutorial done?
I read you thought the switches were high and was wondering if these would work. SP ST
Also wondered if that was three switches you had in your box and what the purpose of each was?
Also wondered if these Sockets would work and be easier to mount in the project box?
Thanks for any help you may provide!
I bought my switches from automationdirect.com, but they are functionally the same as the ones you posted. Like mine, the ones you posted have a 10 amp limit. So I only used them to power on the PID, the pump, and the exhaust fan.
If you aren't using a RIMS tube, another simple way to go is to size your element for your batches. I think about 4000W is about perfect for 10 gallon batches. If you'd like digital temperature readings, you can get a digital temp display like I have. Pretty cheap. I want to say less than $20 shipped, but they take a few weeks on the slow boat from china. You can replace the PID and SSR with a contactor. It'd be a lot easier and cheaper. Plus, those boxes are pretty small. It got crowded fast with the receptacles, PID, SSR, heat sink, etc.
I guess the most helpful thing I can say is to think through what you ultimately want now. I know I found that I wanted a separate HLT at some point. More so, that I wanted a bottom drain BK with a dump valve for easy clean in place. One I added another powered vessel I had more switches. Since I was using 120V at the time I had two elements in each keggle. I was flipping switches like a banshee, hence the updated control panel
At the time I made the box I felt that it was at my limit of what I could realistically do. Having done it, it became more feasible to upgrade to a panel. You may find the same thing. The box was a very good learning experience and if that's all you want, so be it. But think it through a bit. Ultimately, the panel was not much different, just more switches and the use of contactors and some fuses.
I personally found that I never liked mounting receptacles in a panel, nor do I like hanging wires. So I wound up running the power to my panel using conduit. Of course, for a portable box this isn't optimal.
Kal's tutorial pretty much covers it all. But let me know if I can help. After all the advice I received it's the least I can do.
Thanks Dgonza9
I'm a newbie Brewer and I'm not sure how far I'm going to go in this hobby. I don't have any limits yet but they may happen as I usually take everything to the Nth Degree and the retirement funds can get limited. My garage is a full blown wood shop and as such it has 2 separate 120v 20A circuit lines and two separate 240v circuits a 20A and a 30A. So far I've sprung for a SS Stout Tanks Short" 7.3 Gallon Conical Fermenter with Thermowell. I don't figure I'll ever need to brew 10 gal batches. I just built a 10 gal Rubbermaid MLT and fly sparge setup from Midwest my brew kettle is a 9 gal SS.
You're absolutely correct and this is my biggest concern "Direction". I want to build the RIMS tube and have so far procured the tube from here also have two elements from Plumbers Supply 120v 1500w LD and a large supply of Cam Lock fittings from Brewers Hardware. And my 815PL pump will be here tomorrow.
I've always been a jack of all trades and a master of none. I research until I'm satisfied I'm competent. I once about 25 years ago was in college for an electrical engineer degree but had to relocate for a job and never finished. But I've got plenty of friends to check my work.
So for now I'm planning a simple RIMS Tube to help my mash temps. several of my questions include do you still mash at a rate of 1.1 qt per pound of grain. and then fly sparge from a HLT to get wort volume. does it hurt to circulate the mash continuously for 60 min mashing? then go into sparging? or do you mash with enough volume to meet the wort goal volume? (which would be thin) this question has been sticking in the back of my head. I need to go read more on the Contactors. What service do they provide to the element and switching. what Contactor would I need This or This one?
BTW went to Kal's Tutorial, really cool lots of info. Need to sort through that and conclude my direction.
Thanks for your help
Clare
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