My method for sealing a heatstick

[Gritsak]

Great thread, thanks for the tips. Didn't reread when I did the epoxying the other day...ended up taking the entire pvc coupling off after the JB Weld cured. Hope that does not mess things up. Will be mounting in the j pipe later this week.

Regards

the pvc coupling is what provides the really tight seal in the drain pipe, so i think it's actually pretty important. Otherwise you're going to have to use a bunch of silicone to prevent liquid from getting into the pipe (but not necessarily to the wiring since the JB weld encases it). I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with that.

The point of using the pvc is that it fits extremely tightly into the end of the drainpipe and, along with a little silicone, provides an additional "layer" of protection against liquid getting to the wiring.

 

[tarponteaser]

Thanks for the reply. I'll get another coupling and cut it in half or so to fit in the J pipe, then silicone it around the epoxy.

 

[swamibob]

I am thinking about building a heat stick using ideas from your post. I plan on using this heat stick to make a 5 gal water bath that I will use a PID temperature controller to keep the water at a specific setpoint temperatures for sous vide cooking. It will only be held about 5" under the surface of the water and the water will be circulated.

I have a few questions.

If i use the metal drain pipe, I will have to cut it almost as soon as it makes the 90 degree turn up so it won't put the element too deep in my shallow bath.

Could you not just use more cpvc pipe right out of the end of the coupling the length you want and then use an end cap with a hole drilled in it for the cord or do you think it is not sealed good enough with just the epoxy and water would leak by?
I realize you would not be able to hook the green wire to the brass pipe for a ground, but why would you even need this if you are going to run it on a GFCI outlet?

If I can go with all cpvc, I was going to reduce it down as soon as I make my 90 so I can have a smaller 1/2" hole coming out through the lid of the water bath with the power cord, then drill a small hole to cap it.

If you think there is a good possibility of it leaking, I will just go with the metal pipe like you did and deal with the aesthetics of the huge chrome pipe coming out the top.

Any insight you have will be appreciated,
Rob

 

[Bill33525]

I think PVC would be alright after building several heat sticks and brewing many batches of beer with them. The temperature of the heater element is limited to the temperature of the water so the PVC will not melt. As far as grounding the heater element shell, I think it would be a mistake not to do this, as the meal pipe provides a ground return for the GFI breaker sensor. If the element was leaking current into the water there might be a potential shock hazard if the user contacted the water and any other part of the body was grounded, as in bare feet.
Finally, those chrome pipes are very easy to cut with a hack saw.
Hope this helps.

 

[jkarp]

GFCI doesn't need ground to work but you still want to ground any exposed metal to reduce the risk of shock if the hot lead comes loose.

 

[swamibob]

So you guys think the coupling and jb weld seal would be good enough to keep water out without the extra silicone then putting it in the brass drain pipe?

How can the hot wire come off once it is cemented in jb weld and if it somehow did, wouldn't the cpvc itself insulate it?

The only way to ground it with all plastic pipe would be to run it down the outside of the pipe and soldier it to the threads or maybe just tighten a big nut on it. Is this what you are suggesting?

I do appreciate everyone's opinions and insight.

Rob

 

[Bill33525]

If you decide to go all PVC, would be best to get the green ground wire attached to the shell of the heater element. Not sure if you could solder it to the shell, but that would be wonderful if it works. Alternately if using a metal pot, just clip the ground wire to the metal pot if that's easier.
The reason to have the ground wire on the shell, or connected to the pot, is if there is any leakage the GFI will trip right away. If no ground connection is provided then the current would have to go through your body to trip the breaker.

Hope this helps.

 

[jkarp]

The reason to have the ground wire on the shell, or connected to the pot, is if there is any leakage the GFI will trip right away. If no ground connection is provided then the current would have to go through your body to trip the breaker.

Again, GFCI doesn't use the ground wire. GFCI trips when the current on the hot and neutral are not equal, indicating leakage (there could be other conductive paths, especially in a kitchen, beside the circuit the heat stick is plugged into). Grounding the pot / element provides an important additional layer of protection.

I do quite like your idea of leaving the ground lead long and clipping it to the pot with an alligator clip or something similar.

 

[swamibob]

Ok i built my heat stick and I tested it yesterday. No leaks and it works. The JB weld was very much bonded to the PVC coupling and i could not just cut it and pry it. If I have to do this again, now that i know how much of the coupling I will be taking off, i'll wax the part that you pry off to get it to de-laminate easier. I had to take a flat edge grinding wheel to grind the pvc from the jb weld as far as i needed to. It only took 5 minutes so I guess it wasn't too big of a deal. I grounded to the upper part of the pipe just below where I sealed it with the PVC end cap so it would be above the water line.

Here is a video of my first test. I took the end cap off so I could see down to the bottom and to tip it up after to make sure there was not water leakage.

 

[swamibob]

Well, I had some rust forming on the threads and the flat part where the element itself comes out (the part normally inside the water heater). I read I should neutralize the rust and then I could silicone that whole end and threads to keep it from rusting. When I took it apart I can see that water is leaking in the pipe as i poured a couple of ounces out. I guess the jb weld did keep it sealed good enough as it didn't shock me or blow the circuit breaker. This time I siliconed the sh*t out of it around the part that sticks into the j pipe that looks like a nut then screwed the end piece on again and covered the threads and flat part where it was rusting very good with silicone. Do you think this will be good enough? Alternately, if it still leaks past I was thinking about doing another jb weld sealing by getting it all the way down the pipe and sealing to the part that already has been jb welded to the fresh jb weld, basically just filling the inside of the pipe a little bit deeper in jb weld and covering the wires inside a little bit more?

Also, from when i first plugged it in, the GFCI would not let it run for more than 10 seconds so I am just using the normal ground to the pipe right now. Anyone know why the gfci would keep popping after 10 seconds? It is not shocking me when i touch the metal so I have been running on a normal outlet at this time.

 

[jkarp]

Also, from when i first plugged it in, the GFCI would not let it run for more than 10 seconds so I am just using the normal ground to the pipe right now. Anyone know why the gfci would keep popping after 10 seconds? It is not shocking me when i touch the metal so I have been running on a normal outlet at this time.

If the GFCI is popping, there's a current leak. It may not be enough to shock you or you're not in a path to ground. Regardless, the stick is hosed. Rebuild it.

 

[Gritsak]

Regardless, the stick is hosed. Rebuild it.

I agree. I wouldn't try to band-aid fix something like this.

 

[Bill33525]

The water in the pipe is causing current to flow between one of the connections to the element and the ground connection on the pipe, causing the GFI to trip. Did you cover the connections to the element with JB Weld or silicone? One of the glue joints must be leaking.
Safest operation is assured by using a GFI outlet. Continue to improve your waterproofing until the GFI stops tripping.
Hope this helps.