My glass stove-top sucks, looking for heating/boil upgrades (cheaper = better)

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Also, I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).
Don't cover the boiling wort, although you could help keeping the wort hotter by putting the lid on part ways. You also do want to boil off a certain amount of water from your wort. It drives off DMS (the cooked cabbage smell) while increasing wort gravity.

Now covering the mash is a good idea. You can use aluminum foil for that, although it's not the best solution, LoDO wise.
Yeah, don't use silver flakes shedding Reflectix. ;)
 
I had a roughly 9" circle boil-top in my 11" diameter pot (or was it 10" and 12"), regardless, I'd think it let as much steam out as a partly covered lid. I boiled off very close to 0.5 gallons in 30 minutes doing this. (but see updated comment: the reflectix silver particles flaked off).
 
I boiled off very close to 0.5 gallons in 30 minutes doing this.
Good! A gallon an hour boil-off is pretty much standard for 5-6 gallon all-grain batches.
I always kept the lid on part ways to keep the wort boiling, and getting the gallon boil-off. That was on the flat top radiant stove.
 
How many gallons can you boil (and in what sized pot) on that IC3500?
I usually boil 7 gallons of wort in an 8 gallon kettle, using the IC3500. No insulation around the kettle and no lid. Running on full power (3500W).
But sometimes 12-13 gallon "double batches" in a 15 gallon kettle, just as well. But with insulation around the kettle, and the lid part ways on, plus a thick 2x folded-over towel on the lid.
 
I use first wort hops due to their ability to keep boilovers in check. As a secondary function, I find that the cover it creates acts like a lid. Once it starts breaking up later in the boil, I need to bump up the gas a bit to keep my boil steady.

A natural alternative to your reflectix topper?
 
Have you tried putting it on the top of the lid?
The lid isn't flat, but the lid by itself does a decent enough job at keeping heat in (tho not nearly as well as the floating reflectix did).

As for using first-wort hoppage, I've never tried that. And I prefer using a hops bag in the boil, rather than trying to filter (or just dumping everything into the fermenter).
 
I don't see an issue with your idea of floating something on top of the wort to hold in the heat. But since your reflectix lost some stuff that wen to the bottom are you sure it didn't also add something to the wort? Hopefully not toxic stuff.

Lids are a issue as they allow condensation to drip back into the pot. And from what I've read, it's that condensation that contains the stuff besides water that we want out of our wort.
 
I don't see an issue with your idea of floating something on top of the wort to hold in the heat. But since your reflectix lost some stuff that wen to the bottom are you sure it didn't also add something to the wort? Hopefully not toxic stuff.
I was just boiling water, testing things out. Definitely glad it was just a test!
 
Wow, what a difference that reflectix makes!!!
At a "Big Brew Day", back in the late 2010s (2018?), I chatted with a guy who was brewing a 5 gal batch on an induction cook top (outside, extension cord, so 120v, 1800w) with a very wrapped kettle. Yes, he said it was slow - but it can be done.

I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).
With regard to hop steeps (and adding/removing insulation at the right times), one of the ideas I have "played with" is a variation on BBRs:
  1. Using a wrapped kettle, bring the DME/LME to a boil,
  2. turn off the heat, remove the insulation, add the hops
  3. cool naturally to about 175F-ish
  4. add the insulation, add the "hop steep hops", hold for about 30 minutes
The "hot steep" lost ~ 10F over 30 minutes. Targeting different temperatures in step 3 (perhaps 165F) would yield a different result.
 
With regard to hop steeps (and adding/removing insulation at the right times), one of the ideas I have "played with" is a variation on BBRs:
  1. Using a wrapped kettle, bring the DME/LME to a boil,
  2. turn off the heat, remove the insulation, add the hops
  3. cool naturally to about 175F-ish
  4. add the insulation, add the "hop steep hops", hold for about 30 minutes
The "hot steep" lost ~ 10F over 30 minutes. Targeting different temperatures in step 3 (perhaps 165F) would yield a different result.

I feel like this is probably the sort of thing I should have learned by now, but what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?
 
what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?
Steeping hops in the 160F to 170F range will 'unlock' the flavors from the hop without adding much/any bitterness.

Dry hopping is similar: (slightly) different flavors, very little bitterness.

Flame-out hops will add bitterness while the wort is above about 170F. At these temperatures oils that contribute flavors are also 'boiled-off'.
 
Has anyone mentioned using an All-in-One brew kettle/system?
They all seem to run well on 110V.

By setting the timer you can get the strike water preheated ahead of brew time.

Although I don't own one some of my brew friends do and swear by them. That's all they use, and also win competitions.
 
bumping an recent topic with a "new to me" article.

but what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?

End of Boil Hopping

This is a question frequently brought up on homebrew forums and after doing some further research online there‘s a lot of debate about the most effective temperature for end of boil hops. The theory behind doing this at 80°C is that delicate hop essences are less likely to be driven off and there will be a higher proportion in the wort, meaning greater hop aroma and flavour.

-- https://grainfather.com/end-of-boil-hopping/

The article contains measured (not estimated) IBUs for 'end of boil' and '80°C hopping'.
 
Cheapest option is to skip all the cheap options. Lol
Everyone's cost benefit analysis is going to be a little different. For every brewer who finally bought an all-in-one and kicked themselves for not doing it years ago there are three brewers who jumped straight in and used the fancy rig twice before quitting the hobby and putting it on Craigslist.
 
You mentioned 2.5 gal; is that your desired batch size or is that just what you feel limited to? I use an 1800 W, 120 V induction burner I bought off Amazon for under $40 for small (max of 3 gal) batches with great success, but I doubt it would work well for 5-gal batches.
Does the 120v 1800w boil the 2.5g without issue? I'm looking for an induction top to make 1 gal batches so I would likely only need to boil 2g total.
 
So there's ONE slight drawback to the reflectix jacket on my pot: it covers up the outer "lip" of the pot, that I wrap my paint grain-straining bag around. Was a pain in the butt to get the grain all stirred in, cuz the bag kept coming loose. But it's holding temperature great -- 30 minutes in, and it's dropped from 153 to 152.
 
Welp, 6.5 lbs grain ground up (3 lbs briess 2-row, 3 lbs briess pale ale, 8 oz briess caramel munich 60L, 1 oz midnight wheat), mashed, boiled, and now cooling out in the garage, and everything washed up and put away, in just about exactly 3 hours. Once again, I had a little better efficiency (more like 80%, rather than 70% which my software is still set to). OG was more like 1.063 where I was shooting for 1.058 -- should I bother with a little top-off water before adding yeast, or just let it be a little stronger?
 
should I bother with a little top-off water before adding yeast, or just let it be a little stronger?
If short on volume, top it up, unless you want it a tad stronger. Me, I'd leave it stronger.

If you have the right volume, you may want to leave it. You can't cram more in a keg than 5-5.5 gallons. ;)
 
Anyone ever use a turkey fryer? Not one that's been used of course as it may taint the wort. I friend bought a new one and it works great. I use it when brewing. The gas heats quicker and when you reach the desired temp. Shut it down and drop in the cooling coil.
 
Anyone ever use a turkey fryer? Not one that's been used of course as it may taint the wort. I friend bought a new one and it works great. I use it when brewing. The gas heats quicker and when you reach the desired temp. Shut it down and drop in the cooling coil.
People have done it for a long time. You just have to make sure you get a good one with a sturdy stand that won’t fall apart or tip over easy - there are a bunch of cheaply made ones out there.

Alton Brown has a video out there somewhere about deep frying a turkey for Thanksgiving and the hazards. Part of that he goes over buying a turkey fryer and what to look for.

I know many of the turkey pots are also aluminum and that used to be one of the old bugaboos that we should not use aluminum for brewing as it was thought at one time to contribute to Alzheimers. Many of us have SS brewpots.
 
Has anyone mentioned using an All-in-One brew kettle/system?
They all seem to run well on 110V.

By setting the timer you can get the strike water preheated ahead of brew time.

Although I don't own one some of my brew friends do and swear by them. That's all they use, and also win competitions.
Thats what I have and thats what I do. Or I can just turn it on to heat water while I go measure and grind grain.

I have the smaller Anvil Foundry 6.5 which works fine on regular 110v. If you get something bigger its probably a good idea to have a 220v outlet available.
 
Anyone ever use a turkey fryer? Not one that's been used of course as it may taint the wort. I friend bought a new one and it works great. I use it when brewing. The gas heats quicker and when you reach the desired temp. Shut it down and drop in the cooling coil.
I use something similar to this. Plus a propane tank (if you don't have one) and this could be done for under $100.
Fine for brewing/cooking outdoors, sure. But gas burners cannot and shall not be used indoors!

Many homebrewers want to brew indoors, for different and legit reasons, hence their need for electric alternatives.
 
Fine for brewing/cooking outdoors, sure. But gas burners cannot and shall not be used indoors!

Many homebrewers want to brew indoors, for different and legit reasons, hence their need for electric alternatives.
Yeah I brew in my garage with the door open...for sure a caveat for brewing the way I do.
 
Fine for brewing/cooking outdoors, sure. But gas burners cannot and shall not be used indoors!

Many homebrewers want to brew indoors, for different and legit reasons, hence their need for electric alternatives.
I would not be allowed to cook this inside. Fish is not allowed either. And I like both.. :(
 

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