My eBIAB Build Thread

[cbzdel]

I though I would make myself a dedicated build thread for my electric system, a place to post pictures and it all allow me to ask questions about my build without making multiple threads.

So I have read The Electric Brewery website about 4 times though and feel pretty confident I can do this without killing myself.

Over the weekend i ordered about $300 worth of components from various sources, pretty much everything that goes on or in my enclosure, plus some element components as well. Now I did heavily based my system on Kals design. I sketched it up in cad and have it all drawn onto a 12x12 square. I am thinking I should be able to get everything to fit within a 12x12x6 enclosure.

To get to my point, since I really have no parts in hard, at this point all I can do is post my picture of what I want it to look like.

(Looking at it not I now, I see my tag on the main power is backwards)

If you notice I have both a 120v-AC out and a 12v-DV out. Reason being is I am thinking about getting one of those small 12v-DC wort pumps, but I want the ability to upgrade in the future, or I could end just us it as external power for a radio or something while brewing.

I think my first question is, what is the best USA location to get the panel name plates? I swear I was on a site once which had them premade for brewing, but as always I can no longer find it.

 

[JEnglish]

Subscribed

 

[cbzdel]

So here is the enclosure that I just ordered, I was going to wait to measure my components, but I decided to take a risk and speed up the process.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271294622685?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

As for my question about the door tags, I found it located here:
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/tags.html

 

[lzrdkng14]

can you post a parts list?

 

[cbzdel]

can you post a parts list?

For my control panel it is the same as Kals (The Electric Brewery) minus the following items:
(2) PID
(2) OFF/ON Switches
(1) ON/OFF/ON Switch
(1) Yellow 240v LED Light
(1) Volt Meter/Transformer/Regulator
(1) Amp Meter/Transformer/Regulator/Shunt
(2) XLR Input (Temp Probe Input)
(1) 240v Locking Output
(1) 120v Locking Output
(1) 30A/250VAC DPDT 120VAC Coil Relay

And I swapped out his 16x16x8 box for my 12x12x6 box, and used 4" handles rather than his 5" handles on the top and bottom of the box. I plan on adding a volt/amp meter but I am still shopping for one like. I will either install just a volt meter only or get a combo volt/amp meter. I really dont need the meters, but for less than $20 installed it will be worth the added "bling"

And my heating element setup is exactly the same as his, but I only need one rather than his two. I have not yet bought my element, I am debating between 4500watts and 5500watts though only because they are priced the same, part of me is thinking 4500watt only because its cheaper and with a 6.5 gallon boil the added time will be negligible.

I have not yet decided on what size temp probe I will be using yet so I have not bought one yet. It will depend on what type of kettle I go with. If I go with a keggle, I think I may "T" off a sight glass and put the probe in at there.

I plan on using a 12v "US Solar Pump" for recirculation of the the mash. I also currently use a immersion chiller, which I find inadequate. I will go with a couter flow chiller, debating between a DIY version and a cheaper plate chiller still, leaning more towards the plate chiller because it is so compact, plus it looks "cooler" haha..

 

[cbzdel]

I have actually still not figured out exactly how to step the 120vAC down to 12vDC for my pump. I was thinking about using this, but I really do not know much about electronics so maybe someone can chime in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261309205105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It says the input can be 90vAC to 240vAC and it will convert it to 12vDC with 3amps. Sounds like exactly what I need, granted my pump is under 3amps.

Take a lead from my 120vAC terminal strip to the 120vAC switch on the door, the from there to the 120vAC green LED, then from the LED to the "Converter Regulator" then from there I can run at 12vDC.

 

[jeffmeh]

I have actually still not figured out exactly how to step the 120vAC down to 12vDC for my pump. I was thinking about using this, but I really do not know much about electronics so maybe someone can chime in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261309205105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It says the input can be 90vAC to 240vAC and it will convert it to 12vDC with 3amps. Sounds like exactly what I need, granted my pump is under 3amps.

Take a lead from my 120vAC terminal strip to the 120vAC switch on the door, the from there to the 120vAC green LED, then from the LED to the "Converter Regulator" then from there I can run at 12vDC.

It would likely be simpler just to plug a 12v wal wart into your 120v, but it's your call.

 

[questionasker]

I would do what jeffmeh said, and just have two 120VAC outputs. This way, you can plug in a 12VDC adapter straight into the outlet, and if you decide to upgrade to a March/Chugger pump later, you don't have an unused 12VDC output.

 

[cbzdel]

I decided to just go with a simple self powered volt meter for now for my top gauge, just something easy to install really only putting it in for the "bling factor".

So that means everything has been ordered for the control built but the wire, crimp connectors and any hardware needed to mount the panel.

Looking forwards to start getting all this stuff in the mail, I got 5 packages yesterday, it was like Christmas!

 

[zachssoojdm]

Looks cool, can't wait to see it put together!

 

[cbzdel]

I am getting my Auber PID, Timer, and Heatsink tomorrow. As well as the two heavy duty 240v relays. Then on Monday I am getting my 12x12x6 case. I am picking up a 1/2" conduit punch this weekend, do hoping by next weekend I will have the whole door punched out and ready to go.

Then its just a waiting came on the rest of the stuff which I ordered from eBay China.

 

[cbzdel]

I got my heavy duty 240/120coil relays yesterday, these things are HUGE!!! I paid more and ordered the nice fancy blue one thinning it would be some nice "bling", then ended up coming with solid black covers.. Oh well, you win some you lose some...

PID, Time, and heatsink still on track for today. Once I get my case on Monday then I will really get moving in progress.

I plan on gettting a 1/2" conduit punch (which is 7/8") and a 1-1/4" punch as well from Ikea, see my other thread.

Not sure what I am going to do about the holes for the locking power input/outputs, those are the oversize holes, guess I will see what I can find close in inches and go from there.

Edit: One thing I think I have changed. My origional plan was getting the 12v pump. Well with these sale prices on Chuggers, I think I will just go with a Chugger, meaning I do not need the 12vDC plug. So what I am thinking now is one of my 120v outlets I will put a locking lug on it and change the chugger over to a locking plug or possibly just build a 6' extension chord for the chugger and put a locking plug on the control box end. But then for the other switch I think I will put a regular 120VAC panel mount outlet and make it switchable. Like this one:

I will probable never use it but I am thinking hey I would always use it for a radio or a cell phone charger or something, or even a "brewing" computer..

Really I just want the panel to be symmetrical, with my design it would look off if I remove a set of the lower switch/light...

What do you guys think, make one a regular plug or keep them all locking??? I coudl easily make a locking plug to regular plug adapter??

 

[cbzdel]

A small eBay error just made a big time saver for me.

I ordered a 12x12x6 case without having any parts of mine in hand yet. Well yesterday a 12x12x8 case shows up I was pretty mad off because I wanted to start popping holes in it this weekend. I wrote the seller a message saying they sent me the wrong size and I would like to swap for the correct smaller size. Then just for the heck of it I pull it from the box and decide to do an internal mock up, might as well since its here. Wow there is no way I could of got the 6" box to work!! The because of the size of the heavy duty relays and PID the box would not close!

The seller then wrote me a message saying they would give me 20% back if I wanted to keep it or we could swap it. Before agreeing I looked into it a bit more the 12x12x8 box was actually cheaper than the 6" deep box so his refund was actually just making it equal the price of the 8" box. I told him I would keep it and accept the refund, so it all worked out in the end. I feel good, I paid full price for the box that I mistakenly got so all parties are happy haha...

The only other issue is that a 12x12 box is not 12x12 its 11.5x11.5 minus 5/8" around the permiter due to the gasket. so I need to reconfigure my entire layout and now I am not sure if I can get my voltmeter to fit.. I am still playing around with it though. If I was to do it again I would get a 12" wide by 16" tall and then because of the extra room I think I could get away with 6" deep.

 

[cbzdel]

This is what I have came up with for now.. I dont really like that the lower switches are not aligned with anything but I am stuck with it because of the enclosure lock (which is not shown.

What do you guys think?

 

[CalypsoCowboy]

Your panel is very similar to my idea. I'm not sure what your spacing is, but you may be able to tighten up your gaps just a little bit to get it to fit. I'm not sure how much space you need on the top or bottom. The lights and alarm shouldn't need a whole lot of room.

Here is my panel I'm designing for a 12x12 space. Ignore the labels I'm planning a CB20 like setup.

But it's looking sharp, can't wait to see how things turn out.

-Josh

 

[cbzdel]

The weekend had much less time than expected.

I got all my lines drawn onto my panel box, but I only had enough time to punch the holes in the door. I used a 1/2" knockout punch, so the 7/8" size. I wish knew that when using the punch one side would be perfectly smooth and the other would be rough. All my rough sides face outward so I need to file them all down for the lights and switches to fit flush.

Tonight I am going to cut the holes for my PIDs and volt meter. A bit worried about doing the PID holes, there is not alot of room for error! I am going to use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut out the holes.

Picture of progress, not much to look at but its a start.