My BIAB, RIMS, E-Brewery-In-A-Can

[tjash]

Great build and great thread - thanks for compiling all this info! I have the same Bayou Classic 44 qt kettle and thought I would be limited to 3500W due to the kettle diameter (13.5" internal), but you've inspired me. Did you have any issues at all fitting the 5500W element? What kind of clearance does it leave on the far side?

Thanks!

 

[CS223]

Love the build! This is what I want my BIAB system to be. I have the same 44 quart pot/basket combo you do. Can you elaborate on the issue with basket? Does the basket restrict flow too much?

What happened on one brew was that the bag plugged up at the holes. I don't know if it was too fine of a crush or the result of having the crushed grain stored in the freezer. All I had to do was just lift the bag a tiny bit and that was it. I was also stirring in the bag and it happened after the stir so I was no doubt stirring up the fines. There is a thread elsewhere where someone else enlarged the every other hole using a Unibit.

I have the same Bayou Classic 44 qt kettle and thought I would be limited to 3500W due to the kettle diameter (13.5" internal), but you've inspired me. Did you have any issues at all fitting the 5500W element? What kind of clearance does it leave on the far side?

No issues fitting the 5500W element, it's close to the drain but by no means touching, you can also bend the element and spread it out. Using the spud instead of going with a no-weld option gains some clearance as well. The biggest issue is precisely measuring for the element hole. You have to have it positioned so that the element has room to spin when you install it. I measured it several times. It ends up very close to the bottom of the basket, almost touching but that isn't an issue and you can bend it down some to gain a little more clearance. I like to think that having the element extending across the pot to the drain is beneficial in keeping the flow moving over the element.

 

[Caboth]

What is the max volume that this system will put out?

 

[CS223]

What is the max volume that this system will put out?

This is a 5 gal system, plus losses. I use corneys for pressure fermentation and kegging.

 

[vinylicious]

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

 

[CS223]

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

I tinned the spud first, about as much solder as would look like a water drop spread out, maybe .040" thick then I let it cool, cleaned it with water and a brush and refluxed it. I fluxed the kettle then set the spud on the kettle opening then I applied the heat to the spud only being very careful not to oxidize the flux on the kettle with the flame. Apply the flame to the threaded hole of the spud. When the spud shifted & sat down and I saw solder flow to the kettle I went around the spud edge and filled in the gap with heavier & cheaper plumbing solder. I will say this, the flux that comes with Harris kit is the key, I ordered some special Stainless Ruby flux and it was terrible, totally useless.

 

[abarnett]

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

I used the solder/flux kit from AirGas which comes with pretty thin diameter solder. I started with two wraps, but had to add some more (re-applying flux each time). It took me a couple tries before I eventually got it water tight, and it even looks pretty decent. I'd call that a win considering it was my first time soldering with a torch.

I didn't tin the spud first, but I'm guessing that would have made life easier. And my hole was a bit too big; I used the Harbor Freight conduit-size hole punch, which makes a hole that is pretty loose on the spud. I couldn't find a 1-9/16" hole saw at Home Depot; next time I'll order one online.

 

[ekjohns]

what is the benefit of tinning?

 

[Sippin37]

Do you think that the basket goes low enough into the pot with grains to do 2.5 gal BIAB batches as well? Figure probably about 3.5 gallons of water pre-boil or so.

Thanks! I think I am going to make this exact build instead of dropping the money on the Braumeister. As sweet as that thing looks, I just can't get myself to spend that much money.

 

[CS223]

what is the benefit of tinning?

Tinning virtually eliminates issues with oxides interfering with a solid bond. In the case of tinning the spud, it makes it easier to solder since you only have one surface, the pot, to contend with in regards to oxide formation. In addition, you have two dissimilar masses that you are trying to heat, the heavy spud and the thin pot, one will reach optimum temperature before the other. Overheating one can cause additional oxides to form and interfere with obtaining a good bond and smooth flow of solder.

 

[CS223]

Do you think that the basket goes low enough into the pot with grains to do 2.5 gal BIAB batches as well? Figure probably about 3.5 gallons of water pre-boil or so.

Thanks! I think I am going to make this exact build instead of dropping the money on the Braumeister. As sweet as that thing looks, I just can't get myself to spend that much money.

The basket rests 3 inches above the bottom, it's about 1.5" per gallon so you"ll have 2 gallons below the basket. Add your mash in volume of water to that and you"ll have an idea of what will be available for the bag. I'm inclined to say it will work with a 2.5 gallon batch because you'll mash in with around 4 gallons of water, and the grain will displace a good bit of that. If you need more water above the bag, you could put a couple of water filled jars in the bottom or some kind of clean river rock, marbles, etc. to displace some of the water. Keep in mind it's going to heat a lot faster and you'll have to lower the heat quite a bit when boiling if you're using manual mode on the PID.

 

[ekjohns]

thanks for the info. I will be doing this soon and I am not very good at soldering. If you have time could you give a nice description of how to solder the spud with tinning? I looked up tinning copper but that was on a flat sheet of copper with a special tool that was heated up in a furnace. Not quite sure how to do it on a spud

 

[CS223]

thanks for the info. I will be doing this soon and I am not very good at soldering. If you have time could you give a nice description of how to solder the spud with tinning? I looked up tinning copper but that was on a flat sheet of copper with a special tool that was heated up in a furnace. Not quite sure how to do it on a spud

Start with this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/

Clean the entire back surface of the spud where it will be soldered. Use some coarse wet/dry sandpaper or a coarse Scotchbrite pad or similar. when the surface appears matt, wash it with some soapy water and then wipe with solvent.

When it's dry, brush on some flux and heat the spud with a propane torch by applying the flame around the inside of the threaded hole. Do not apply the flame to the flux. As it warms up and you see the begin to flux boil off, remove the torch and rub the solder on the spud. If it's hot enough, the solder will melt and begin to coat the surface of the spud, if not, re-apply the heat. The "heat, dab-dab" test process should only take a second or two. Once it's up to temp, it will only take a little heat to maintain the temp to finish coating the surface with solder.

Wash & clean the flux off the spud once it's tinned.

Thinking about it, you could probably set the spud on an electric stove burner and heat it up that way.

Clean the hole in the pot in a similar manner, flux around the opening of the hole & flux the spud. Be careful fluxing the pot, if the flux is allowed to dribble down the sides, it will discolor it a little if that matters to you. Set the fluxed spud on the opening and make sure the pot is blocked up level & so it won't roll.

Heat the spud from inside its threaded opening. Don't worry about heating the pot, try to avoid that. As the spud comes up to temperature, the solder you tinned it with will begin to melt and that will transfer heat to the pot. When you see the spud set down flush at the top & bottom, begin to apply solder to the sides to fill in the remaining gap. Watch your heat, the spud will be plenty hot which will give you enough working time without having to keep the flame on it constantly.

Don't go too crazy with the solder, strive for a meniscus around the edge. Too much and it will dribble and run down the side of the pot.

By not applying the flame directly to the pot, you avoid introducing heat distortion. On heavier pots or keggles that may not be a problem.

 

[ekjohns]

awesome that makes sense. Basically it just replaces the wraps of solder around the spud and probably makes the heat transfer more uniform?

 

[CS223]

awesome that makes sense. Basically it just replaces the wraps of solder around the spud and probably makes the heat transfer more uniform?

Yep and it guarantees a bond to the spud. You could tin the pot as well but you'd run the risk of heat distortion and end up with a warped surface.

 

[Antler]

I can't believe I didn't see this before. Your panel is exactly the same I want. PID to maintain mash temps, and PWM for boiling. Have you finished up and added the PWM yet?

 

[CS223]

I can't believe I didn't see this before. Your panel is exactly the same I want. PID to maintain mash temps, and PWM for boiling. Have you finished up and added the PWM yet?

I've added the PWM but I haven't brewed with it yet, been working too much. As soon as I get a weekend free, I'll be able to put it through it's paces. Kegs are empty

On another note, I'm working on a conversion project. Basically using my existing pot as is and adding some more hardware to convert it into the equivalent of a Spiedle Braumeister. I've been gathering up parts and I've built 'matho' 's Braumiser Arduino control. When I get it all pulled together, I'll post the details.

 

[BeerFather Brewing]

CS223 - Perhaps a silly question, but I can't tell from the pics.

You use a ripple element. It looks like your welding spud is pretty low on the pot. How did you negotiate screwing the element in w/o the ripple hitting the bottom of the pot & essentially negating your ability to screw that element in?

 

[Antler]

I've added the PWM but I haven't brewed with it yet, been working too much. As soon as I get a weekend free, I'll be able to put it through it's paces. Kegs are empty

On another note, I'm working on a conversion project. Basically using my existing pot as is and adding some more hardware to convert it into the equivalent of a Spiedle Braumeister. I've been gathering up parts and I've built 'matho' 's Braumiser Arduino control. When I get it all pulled together, I'll post the details.

Have you used the system with the PWM yet?

 

[madcore]

lot of good info on this build that i will be taken into mine. just hope i can have mine looking as good

 

[DrinknBuddy]

After seeing the price of a Braumeister I made this. Wanted it made of steal because that's what I have laying around but made it really strong. Every thing is in metal outlet 4x4 or 4x6 boxes. I use a pizza pan for a strainer to protect the bag. It really brews great. I usually get around 83 to 85% eff. I use a 5 gallon pot to make 3.5 gallons of wort to the keg. I just set the temp at 154 for a 30 min mash. I them raise the temp to 170 to mash out. Takes about 30 mins to bring it up. I set the bag on a strainer that fits on top and push down with the lid to squeeze it.

 

[iijakii]

Beautiful work, man!

 

[BadDeacon]

Beautiful work. I just upgraded my pot. Maybe over the next year I can make this happen and get off propane as well. I really like the small footprint and storage as well!

Deacon.

 

[Woodbrews]

That is awesome. I'm also space-limited, so this is appealing. I love how you've combined the pump and plate chiller within a portable stand. I've already built my control box, but I can see making something like this for the pump and chiller. I take you fabricated the steel box yourself? Do you have any plans? Thanks!

 

[DrinknBuddy]

Thanks I'd like to make all the hoses out of copper. Also I think I would like to get a new pot and solder the fittings. That's why I'm fallowing this post.
O I'm guessing you want to know if I have any thing on paper. No I just started welding. I would recommend using a cheap 110 volt welder because my 220 tried to melt the steal any chance it got. The wood (particle board) has another glued to it so it will fit real tight and pops right off. After I clean the lines I just leave it facing face down and let it drain for a few days. Still a work in progress but ain't everything.

 

[CS223]

After seeing the price of a Braumeister I made this.

Very nice job! I haven't had time to improve mine yet, I have the Arduino (Braduino) control setting on the bench. I need to learn a little more about programming to customize the code. I really like how your integrated it all into the base, If I can ever get out from under my work load, I think I'm going to do something similar except put it on a roll around cart.

 

[TJTHEBEST]

Tagging for the PVC element design.

 

[stever1000]

Wow I really like your brewery in a can! Very efficient use of space

 

[stever1000]

Sorry if I missed it, but do you have a wiring diagram?