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My beer has no alcohol... why?

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murolo013

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I have been a homebrewer for about ten years. I have successfully created many different types of beer at home using both kits and self-made recipes. I had something strange happen with my latest batch.

I used a nut brown ale kit. It was all grain, and I decided to use fresh maple sap (It was March in New England) instead of water. After learning how best to do it, I made the batch and placed it into my fermenter. Within about eight hours, it started bubbling great. The fermentation kept up for about 4 days, pretty typical for this kind of beer. I let it continue to ferment for a total of two weeks. When bottling day came, I tested the ABV, and it came out to about 2%. I figured that I must have done something wrong with my original gravity calculation (I've used this hydrometer many times before without issues) and went ahead with bottling.

A couple of weeks later, I had my first taste. The beer tastes great! A great nut brown flavor with a hint of sweetness from the sap. The problem? There is no alcohol in it. It tastes as though I created a beer-flavored water. What could have caused this? Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance, community.

-Joe-
 
Yeah I'm not too sure on your process here. Besides OG and FG, what do you mean by you used maple sap instead of water?
 
Yeah I'm not too sure on your process here. Besides OG and FG, what do you mean by you used maple sap instead of water?
I saw a write-up on that somewhere, I think it was on HBT, but not sure - If you live where they can get the fresh sap, it's supposed to work great.
 
When bottling day came, I tested the ABV, and it came out to about 2%. A couple of weeks later,... There is no alcohol in it. What could have caused this?

I don't understand how alcohol could have been present at bottling, but "disappeared" in the bottle? Did you do another FG reading after bottle-conditioning? Or is it a matter of *tasting* like there is no/little alcohol? Again, it's unlikely if not impossible for measurable alcohol to have been there, then NOT have been there. Thinking a measurement or equipment issue.
 
Okay I see, so the sap is like dilute sugar water that you actually use to mash and sparge? I guess you have to add minerals like you would with RO. Waiting on the OG/FG numbers so we can figure out what the OP is talking about.
 
You say on bottling day you tested avb and it came out at about 2%. Did you take a gravity reading and compute the avb? It does not work like that.... You have to subtract the final gravity from the original gravity, then compute the avb....?

Mind you after reading your post it seems you know og and fg relation to abv....
 
Are you using the potential alcohol scale on the hydrometer? That is of no use. Assuming you are that gives a gravity of about 1.014.

You need the OG to compute ABV, Take the OG ( or the estimated OG from kit) and then using this formula you can compute ABV.

(OG- FG) X 131= ABV.

For example if you og was 1.050. your abv would be 1.050 - 1.014 = .036

.036 X 131 = 4.7 %
 
Are you using the potential alcohol scale on the hydrometer? That is of no use. Assuming you are that gives a gravity of about 1.014.

You need the OG to compute ABV, Take the OG ( or the estimated OG from kit) and then using this formula you can compute ABV.

(OG- FG) X 131= ABV.

This is my first thought as well, that the OP is using the hydrometer wrong and reading the useless (to homebrewers) potential alcohol scale.... Though I find it odd that someone brewing for a decade wouldn't know this, that's usually a noob mistake...but who know...

But I'm going to say that it's highly unlikely there's no alcohol there and weak sap would have affected the mash that much to inhibit conversion and later fermentation.... If he took an og reading he would have noticed a lack of much conversion by having a low OG....
 
You're probably using your hydrometer incorrectly. Ignore the "potential alcohol percentages". That's only useful before fermentation and assumes it will ferment totally dry. Most beer will not ferment totally dry. After fermention has begun these numbers are not useful.
Try an online calculator or the simple formula beergolf posted.
 
Will a hydrometer even give a correct reading in Maple sap as opposed to water?
 
I would question whether there was a stuck fermentaion for some reason (high OG?) that just looked like it was active. When you carbed, did you bottle carb or keg? Also, how sweet is a "hint" of sweetness? Just curious, as a sugary sweetness could imply unfermented sugar.
 
Okay so I overlooked that you've been a homebrewer for ten years. How did you determine the 2% number? How did you determine there is now "no alcohol"?
 
Thanks Revvy...Ultraman was a childhood after school favorite. Yes it snowed like an inch yesterday in Jackson...uggg.
 
Hi, all. Thanks for your responses. You seem to be a little too hung up on OG/FG. I've been using this hydrometer for years with no issue. However, in the event that I did use it wrong this time, the dispositive indicator is the taste. There is no alcohol taste in my beer.

As far as the numbers go, the OG was 1.035, the FG was 1.015, giving me an ABV of around 2.6% or so. When I state that there is no alcohol in the beer, I am referring to the taste, along with this very low number. I was expecting an ABV of 6 or 7% or thereabouts.

Once or twice in the past, I have had a wild yeast or bacteria get into my fermenter, and it ruins the batch. It produces an off flavor that makes the beer entirely undrinkable. This was not the case here. I practiced excellent sanitation, and the beer tastes good. I suppose that my question is about the chemical reaction in fermentation. Do any of you know about a type of fermentation that emits CO2 (my airlock bubbled perfectly for about 4 days), but does not produce (much) alcohol or off flavors?

Thanks again, all.

-Joe-

PS - As I have abandoned my penchant for living under bridges, I can assure you that this is not a troll thread.
 
Hi, all. Thanks for your responses. You seem to be a little too hung up on OG/FG. I've been using this hydrometer for years with no issue. However, in the event that I did use it wrong this time, the dispositive indicator is the taste. There is no alcohol taste in my beer.

As far as the numbers go, the OG was 1.035, the FG was 1.015, giving me an ABV of around 2.6% or so. When I state that there is no alcohol in the beer, I am referring to the taste, along with this very low number. I was expecting an ABV of 6 or 7% or thereabouts.

Once or twice in the past, I have had a wild yeast or bacteria get into my fermenter, and it ruins the batch. It produces an off flavor that makes the beer entirely undrinkable. This was not the case here. I practiced excellent sanitation, and the beer tastes good. I suppose that my question is about the chemical reaction in fermentation. Do any of you know about a type of fermentation that emits CO2 (my airlock bubbled perfectly for about 4 days), but does not produce (much) alcohol or off flavors?

Thanks again, all.

-Joe-

PS - As I have abandoned my penchant for living under bridges, I can assure you that this is not a troll thread.

I'm just not sure how wort consisting of grain and sap only got a OG of 1.035. How many pounds of grain? What temperature did you mash at and what was your target OG? Yeast used?
 
At 1.035 OG you only have the potential to reach 4.59% abv if you took it all the way down to 1.000. I think you're expecting way too much from such a low gravity wort. Add more grains or change your process and try again
 
An og of 1.035 isn't going to result in 6-7% abv. The reason we're hung up on it is because it's the one tell-tale method. Your 2.6%, imo, SHOULDN'T taste like alcohol. I don't get the confusion...
 
Maple sap/water is not very concentrated, to make syrup it's something like a 30:1 ratio. A pound of maple syrup adds about 30ppg.
 
I'm just not sure how wort consisting of grain and sap only got a OG of 1.035. How many pounds of grain? What temperature did you mash at and what was your target OG? Yeast used?

This, I suppose, is my question. For this batch, I used an all grain recipe kit from northern brewer (see link below), and followed the recipe exactly. I don't usually use kits, but because I was trying something unusual here, I wanted the base nut brown ale to be a known factor. The only thing that I did differently was to use fresh maple sap instead of water (for both the mash and the boil). I pre-boiled the sap ahead of time to make it suitable for mashing, so I do not think that anything unusual got into the beer that way.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/nut-brown-ale-all-grain-kit

I understand the math, and that is not what is confusing to me. The thing I don't get is why a wort with extra sugar in it (maple sap is about 2% sugar, 98% water) would have produced a lower alcohol beer. The nut brown ale by itself should have given me a beer in the 5-6% range, give or take.
 
Caveat: I'm fairly new to brewing, and VERY green when it comes to all-grain (only having tried it once.) That being said, I'm wondering if maybe your mash temp was off or something and created unfermentable sugars.
 
This, I suppose, is my question. For this batch, I used an all grain recipe kit from northern brewer (see link below), and followed the recipe exactly. I don't usually use kits, but because I was trying something unusual here, I wanted the base nut brown ale to be a known factor. The only thing that I did differently was to use fresh maple sap instead of water (for both the mash and the boil). I pre-boiled the sap ahead of time to make it suitable for mashing, so I do not think that anything unusual got into the beer that way.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/nut-brown-ale-all-grain-kit

I understand the math, and that is not what is confusing to me. The thing I don't get is why a wort with extra sugar in it (maple sap is about 2% sugar, 98% water) would have produced a lower alcohol beer. The nut brown ale by itself should have given me a beer in the 5-6% range, give or take.

That kit's instructions claim an expected OG of 1.044, which is in ~4-4.5% ABV range for a brown ale. The sap doesn't add a great deal of sugar, I want to say from what I've heard it's something like 1.0015 on its own - not a huge contributor to the OG of the beer. It appears that you got rather low mash efficiency to end up with 1.035 - I'd guess somewhere in the 60% range. It could be a process issue (do you typically measure your efficiency?) or it's possible that something like the pH of the sap, a bad thermometer leading to the wrong mash temp, a coarser crush than you usually use, or perhaps stale or poorly-weighed kit grains lead to your low OG.

As for why your beer tastes like it has no alcohol, as others have said, you're in the <3% range. If it tastes like tasty beer, congratulations, you've made an excellent session beer! The rest of us should be so lucky.
 
I think you're asking the wrong question which is leading to the confusion. You should be asking why you didn't hit your target OG, not why there is so little alcohol. There weren't actually any extra sugars in your wort because they didn't get converted from the grain. The sap only made up for a small amount of the unconverted sugars, still leaving you without enough sugars to get anywhere close to your expected alcohol level.
 
Were the grains crushed already? Are your hydro and thermometer calibrated still? I'm running out of ideas here, so I'm shooting for the more obvious ones that should go without saying.
 
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