Must have salts/acids?

[VikeMan]

Do you have the free version? No matter what I put in the pH never changes. I have zeroed the enter workbook where entries are allowed.

It's been years since I've looked at Bru-n-Water, but it didn't behave the way you are describing. (It was the free version.) Also, IIRC there was a lengthy page (sheet/tab) of instructions. Did you read them?

 

[mac_1103]

Yes, the free version. What's your volume?

 

[hilljack13]

I read through them, took me a good while. Volume 5.5 FV, 2.5 sparge, total 8.

I just redownloaded, Looks like I did something wrong. pH is moving. The previous download gives me an error of circular references. The new download did not.

 

[mac_1103]

Glad you figured it out.

 

[ExpatPete]

Hello All, I am also a relatively new brewer, just starting on my 19th batch. In my last 7 or 8 brews I have started making water adjustments. I have been using the water and mash screens off of the BeerSmith3 program. In your opinions, how does the BeerSmith3 program compare to the Bru-n-water program or other water adjsutment programs?

 

[InspectorJon]

I have used BrunWater and Brewer’s Friend. They give different calculation results. They both make good beer. Go figure.

 

[hottpeper13]

For the hefe, the BF gave me:
0.9g Baking soda
2.9g Calcium Chloride
3.0g Gypsum
5ml lactic acid. I only used 2ml as my pH was mid to high 5. I thought I put it in the recipe but apparently forgot

I would say that a program that has you adding backing soda to a hefe just to use acid to neutralize it is not a good one. The question I ask is why you need RO in the first place. For me it is because my alkalinity is 400 ppm, so when I brew a dark beer I add back filtered house water, which dissolves really nicely.
On the Mg front , I've noticed more of an egg drop soup for the hot break when I started incorporating it.

 

[VikeMan]

I would say that a program that has you adding backing soda to a hefe just to use acid to neutralize it is not a good one.

It's what happens when chasing a pre-loaded "profile" that includes an HCO3 number, instead of building in what's needed. I've probably said this about a hundred times before, but no water recipe should ever start with any sort of HCO3 target. It should only be added if/when needed to raise pH.

 

[mac_1103]

I've probably said this about a hundred times before, but no water recipe should ever start with any sort of HCO3 target. It should only be added if/when needed to raise pH.

I think it's an easy mistake to make though. I know that when I first started to look at regional and historic water profiles to learn about what was used to brew particular styles, I naively thought that the idea was that you needed to replicate that water and then go from there. But of course those profiles describe the water those brewers have, not the water they want. And after reading the instructions and notes in Bru'n Water and then playing around with it a little, my folly became clear.

 

[AlexKay]

But of course those profiles describe the water those brewers have, not the water they want.

And even if your only goal is to recreate a beer as it was historically made (not the same thing as making the best possible beer, though that's an argument to be had elsewhere), you have to know both the regional water mineral content, and any treatment the brewers of the time put it through before brewing. This can be done (at least in some cases), but I think it takes us way out of the "Beginners Beer Brewing" forum.

 

[AlexKay]

It's what happens when chasing a pre-loaded "profile" that includes an HCO3 number, instead of building in what's needed. I've probably said this about a hundred times before, but no water recipe should ever start with any sort of HCO3 target. It should only be added if/when needed to raise pH.

I was nodding along vigorously in agreement, but then found this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/target-water-profile-for-munich-helles.573644/post-7426764.

Maybe modern brewers could add sodium lactate directly...? I'm not sure how easy it is to find food-grade salt, though.

 

[hilljack13]

The question I ask is why you need RO in the first place

I haven't had my water tested and at this point I don't plan too. I like to be hands on.
I do know that when my water dries it leaves a white residue, after being filtered.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

For me it is because my alkalinity is 400 ppm, so when I brew a dark beer I add back filtered house water

This is by far the best way to add alkalinity if you need it. Baking soda brings sodium with it and pickling lime isn't perfect either. A good source of alkaline water (known levels) can be used to adjust pH up. If the mash drops too low use alkaline water or blend for sparging water.

It's better to come into the boil a little high on pH and dropping the pH with some acid than trying to raise it by adding alkalinity any where in the process with a water salt. At least that's been my experience.

I think it takes us way out of the "Beginners Beer Brewing" forum.

Probably. Getting fed with a fire hose can be overwhelming for some.