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What you're saying is spot on to my thinking.
The classic american light that came with it seems very light. It's been brewing 7 days and I sampled it yesterday and it tasted kinda like champaign beer at best. But it did taste like beer. I plan on bottling next Saturday.
I've been liking wheat beers lately so I think I'll do a "easy please me weiss" style next.

Did it taste like the Champagne of Beers - Miller High Life?

Wheat is really perfect for extract like this because it is a simple beer to begin with.
 
Also, if you go to brewingwithbriess.com, you can use the advanced search to find extract only recipes. They have many that are built around cans of LME.
 
Hi everyone. I just finished fermenting my first batch of Mr Beer from the Deluxe kit I received for Christmas. After bottling the brew I noticed a slurry of left over yeast in the bottom of the little brown keg. Can anything be done with this solution of yeast or do most brewers discard it?
Steve
 
Hi everyone. I just finished fermenting my first batch of Mr Beer from the Deluxe kit I received for Christmas. After bottling the brew I noticed a slurry of left over yeast in the bottom of the little brown keg. Can anything be done with this solution of yeast or do most brewers discard it?

Steve


Great question! You can save it in a mason jar in the fridge. Check out yeast washing on the forum. You can reuse it.
 
Hey all, first post!

First - I'm reading the Mr Beer starter thread - as much as I have time! (I work 5x 16's - 3 jobs - and little free time). (Which is why brewing is the only hobby i have time for!) I think I'm already learning. Started with a MR beer on dec 1, and I'm up to 4 1 gallon jugs fermenting now with extract kits before I've tasted more than two beers of the first Mr. Beer :D I'm only up to page 90 or so of the thread, though.

What I've learned:
0. Sanitize. (Programmers start counting at 0.)
1. Give it time.
2. From what I've read, don't bother with the 1 week rack to get off yeast (from the 1 gals). Just bottle at 2?
3. Use a blowoff tube for heavy beers.
4. Don't stick your blowoff tube too far down a one gallon carboy or you lose 2 cups at least from krausen. (Learned that all by myself, after the spillage... thank goodness it was in a plastic tub!)

So questions right now, while they're pressing...

1. You keep mentioning "when you outgrow the mr beer to big boy pants, you can still use the fermenter..." Can I safely use a Mr beer 2 gallon fermenter for a 1 gallon kit from Northernbrewer or brooklynbeershop? I'm kind of hoping as long as I don't poke at it, the co2 from fermentation should act as a buffer from the extra oxygen headspace in there, until I bottle, but I'm not sure. I need an extra fermenter! Time to buy a 5th 1 gallon, or can i use the Mr Beer for a 1 gallon kit?
2. If there's an air "gap" that filled my auto siphon tube (beer would have to "catch up", and it was a slow draw), did I just REALLY over-oxygenate my beer during rack to 1 gallon carboy after initial brew?
3. How do you measure og/fg with a 1 gallon batch? So far, winging it with a 2 week ferment for everything. Do you really draw about a cup for the "cylinder", measure with hydrometer, then return that to the 1 gallon batch? Seems risky. But not returning the liquid, I'd be 1/4 (well, ok, 1/8) gone immediately.
4. The kit instructions keep saying "use half the yeast..." as I have done. Hard to measure,though. I've been doing my best to measure half. What harm would using the whole yeast packet cause?

Edit: question 2 is silly after just shaking my jugs TO oxygenate. However, would the same scenario hurt bottling, if I haven't perfected my auto siphon skills? It was buried to bottom of jug, but the siphon seemed bad/weird.

In any case, thanks for your patience, I promise I'll keep reading! These questions just address issues I may have in this weekend's (4th in a row) brew... Brooklyn Brew Shops jalepeno ale!

Twy
 
Last edited:
Hey all, first post!

First - I'm reading the Mr Beer starter thread - as much as I have time! (I work 5x 16's - 3 jobs - and little free time). (Which is why brewing is the only hobby i have time for!) I think I'm already learning. Started with a MR beer on dec 1, and I'm up to 4 1 gallon jugs fermenting now with extract kits before I've tasted more than two beers of the first Mr. Beer :D I'm only up to page 90 or so of the thread, though.

What I've learned:
0. Sanitize. (Programmers start counting at 0.)
1. Give it time.
2. From what I've read, don't bother with the 1 week rack to get off yeast (from the 1 gals). Just bottle at 2?
3. Use a blowoff tube for heavy beers.
4. Don't stick your blowoff tube too far down a one gallon carboy or you lose 2 cups at least from krausen. (Learned that all by myself, after the spillage... thank goodness it was in a plastic tub!)

So questions right now, while they're pressing...

1. You keep mentioning "when you outgrow the mr beer to big boy pants, you can still use the fermenter..." Can I safely use a Mr beer 2 gallon fermenter for a 1 gallon kit from Northernbrewer or brooklynbeershop? I'm kind of hoping as long as I don't poke at it, the co2 from fermentation should act as a buffer from the extra oxygen headspace in there, until I bottle, but I'm not sure. I need an extra fermenter! Time to buy a 5th 1 gallon, or can i use the Mr Beer for a 1 gallon kit?
2. If there's an air "gap" that filled my auto siphon tube (beer would have to "catch up", and it was a slow draw), did I just REALLY over-oxygenate my beer during rack to 1 gallon carboy after initial brew?
3. How do you measure og/fg with a 1 gallon batch? So far, winging it with a 2 week ferment for everything. Do you really draw about a cup for the "cylinder", measure with hydrometer, then return that to the 1 gallon batch? Seems risky. But not returning the liquid, I'd be 1/4 (well, ok, 1/8) gone immediately.
4. The kit instructions keep saying "use half the yeast..." as I have done. Hard to measure,though. I've been doing my best to measure half. What harm would using the whole yeast packet cause?

Edit: question 2 is silly after just shaking my jugs TO oxygenate. However, would the same scenario hurt bottling, if I haven't perfected my auto siphon skills? It was buried to bottom of jug, but the siphon seemed bad/weird.

In any case, thanks for your patience, I promise I'll keep reading! These questions just address issues I may have in this weekend's (4th in a row) brew... Brooklyn Brew Shops jalepeno ale!

Twy


Hello Twy and welcome to the addiction of homebrewing!

Just one thing before I get to your questions, a blowoff tube should not be going down into your fermenter at all. A 3 piece airlock should be used. The base is the perfect size to attach your blowoff tubing.

On to your questions!

1. You probably can, but why risk it? One more gallon of beer isn't that expensive to make. The system works best when you let it.

2. Nah, you're fine. Relax!

3. You should not return your sample to the fermenter. Too much risk of contamination. Many here will tell you they do it with no problems, but to me I'd rather just give it an extra week and not disturb it.

4. Those packets (no the Mr Beer yeast but your extract kit yeast) actually have enough yeast for a 5 gallon batch. As long as you're close you should be OK. Using the whole thing won't hurt it; just sort of a waste of money. Yeast isn't cheap!

Again, welcome to the hobby and please don't be shy with questions. We're all here to help!
 
To clarify in case anyone is wondering.
It is 8 days fermented.
No bubbles or activity to be seen in the fermenter with help of flashlight.
Hope this is not an indication of what the beer will taste like once done. If so I would prefer to dump and get a new batch started. I have a wheat recipie I want to do next and don't want to waste time.
Fermentation temp has been 68*-72*. Slight changes coming from the room being small and it tends to warm faster than the rest of the house when the furnace kicks on.
 
To clarify in case anyone is wondering.
It is 8 days fermented.
No bubbles or activity to be seen in the fermenter with help of flashlight.
Hope this is not an indication of what the beer will taste like once done. If so I would prefer to dump and get a new batch started. I have a wheat recipie I want to do next and don't want to waste time.
Fermentation temp has been 68*-72*. Slight changes coming from the room being small and it tends to warm faster than the rest of the house when the furnace kicks on.


It shouldn't taste sour, but no one can be sure what you're tasting. 72 is high, esp since the beer will be warmer. I would finish it, so you have something to compare.
 
It shouldn't taste sour, but no one can be sure what you're tasting. 72 is high, esp since the beer will be warmer. I would finish it, so you have something to compare.


What should it taste like? Maybe it's kinda cider tasting and not sour? Like I said this is my first time
 
What should it taste like? Maybe it's kinda cider tasting and not sour? Like I said this is my first time

The cider taste will get more noticeable the warmer you let your fermenter get. Try and keep your temps down in the low to mid 60's. You'll end up with a better beer.

The Mr. Beer LME also has a very high amount of non malt sugars that will ferment out more completely and lend a cidery flavor.

Give it lots of time. It takes, on average, 3 weeks to fully ferment, and another 2 weeks to bottle condition. When I got my Mr. Beer I remember that the directions said that you could ferment in less than a week and condition in 2 days. It simply just doesn't go that fast.

Smile, you made beer!:tank:
 
Two weeks in and it still tastes like ass. Maybe it will be better once it's conditioned and served near the freezing point! Gonna treat it like any other old hog wash and down it super cold lookin to catch a buzz.
 
Go get your self a can of LME and some hop pellets and try again. It is really easy to make good beer, it just takes attention to detail and patients! :) The Mr. beer kit in a can's can turn out all right if you throw out the instructions and follow good brewing practices.

Give this recipe a shot:

1- 3.3 lb can of pale malt extract (the non hopped stuff)
1/2 oz. perle or northern brewer hop pellets
3/4 oz. cascades hop pellets
1 packet us-05 dry yeast

Put 5 quarts water in a big pot and bring to a boil, add the can of extract and 1/2 oz of perle hops, boil hard and uncovered for 50 min., then add the cascades hops, and boil for another 10 min.. Cool in an ice bath.

Put 1 gallon cold water in your sanitized Mr. Beer keg and add the brew, straining out the hop residue. Make sure the wort temp. is below 75*F. and pitch the yeast. Place the little brown keg in a cool (below 65*F, but above 55*F) and dark place and forget about it for at least 3 weeks. It is ok to check in on it every once in a while but do not try and hurry it. After the 3 week mark, check gravity if you are equipped with a measuring device, if not make sure there is no activity in the beer and it is clear. If it is truly finished fermenting, put the LBK in your fridge for 24-48 hours.

Then prime your bottles as directed by Mr. Beer, and bottle in sanitized bottles. Or better yet, add your priming sugar to a sanitized bottling bucket and carefully mix in your beer, being careful not to splash and bottle from the bucket. Let the bottles set in a cool dark place for an additional 2-3 weeks.

Pay attention to your temps. and sanitation, and this will make you a very good pale ale, golden in color and very enjoyable. All from your Mr. Beer little brown keg!

:ban::rockin::mug: :eek:nestar::eek:nestar::eek:nestar::eek:nestar::hs:
 
Planning a trip to my lbhs tuis weekend and this is what I had in mind;
1 can Breiss Bavarian Wheat LME 3.3lb
8oz carahell
.5oz Hallerteau
1/2 packet WB-06
I plan on steeping the carahell @ 155 for 30min in 5qt water.
Add 1/2 LME bring to boil and add Hallerteau and boil 60min.
Add remaining LME @ flameout and chill in ice bath.

Pitch yeast and Ferment in interior basement room @ 65* ambient temp for 3 weeks.

Input will be appreciated
 
I would ad a flavoring or aroma hopping addition toward the end of the boil, maybe even the other half once of Hallerteau, split and added at 15 min. and flame out, and would top up to around 8-9 qt. post boil volume.
But I like hops, even in my wheat beers.
 
So i made my first batch that came with the mr beer kit and have done some reading on home brewing and for my next batch id like to try and make some Irish red ale. I was wondering if any one had a recipe for it that would fit in a 2 gallon mr beer kit =]
 
So i made my first batch that came with the mr beer kit and have done some reading on home brewing and for my next batch id like to try and make some Irish red ale. I was wondering if any one had a recipe for it that would fit in a 2 gallon mr beer kit =]


Any recipe you find can be modified to fit the LBK. I ferment in a LBK but I take any recipe I find and just figure out what it would be for 2 gallons. Most recipes here are for 5 gallons so I just multiply by .4
 
Planning a trip to my lbhs tuis weekend and this is what I had in mind;
1 can Breiss Bavarian Wheat LME 3.3lb
8oz carahell
.5oz Hallerteau
1/2 packet WB-06
I plan on steeping the carahell @ 155 for 30min in 5qt water.
Add 1/2 LME bring to boil and add Hallerteau and boil 60min.
Add remaining LME @ flameout and chill in ice bath.

Pitch yeast and Ferment in interior basement room @ 65* ambient temp for 3 weeks.

Input will be appreciated


Sounds good.

I have never had luck with WB-06 being anything but bland. Read up on the proper temp to get the flavors you want.

Also, as mentioned, follow the usual mr beer steps of adding a gallon of cold water to the fermenter, then adding your cooled wort. Then top up to the usual line.
 
Sounds good.

I have never had luck with WB-06 being anything but bland. Read up on the proper temp to get the flavors you want.

Also, as mentioned, follow the usual mr beer steps of adding a gallon of cold water to the fermenter, then adding your cooled wort. Then top up to the usual line.


What other dry yeast would you recommend? I haven't got to the brew yet so changes can be made.
 
What other dry yeast would you recommend? I haven't got to the brew yet so changes can be made.

If you're going for a traditional hefeweizen style, I think that's the main choice in dry. I think there is one from Lallemand called Munich, but it doesn't seem to be as available. They might have it at your store. I've never used it, so I don't know anything about it or how it compares.

But hefeweizens get their flavor from the yeast. And some people say it works really well. But search on here and see what the temperature recommendations are.

I just have not had good luck with it. BUT I also have to admit that I've used it with darker grains.
 
I found a recipe online for a red ale and want to give it a go. Im pretty sure iv scaled it down to fit the 2 gallon mr beer kit correctly (recipe is intended for 5 gallons) but would like some feed back from you helpfull folk.
2 pounds light liquid malt extract
.33 pound carared malt, crushed
.16 pound crystal 60L malt, crushed
.67 ounce black roasted barley malt, crushed
.33 ounce centennial hops-60 mins
.33 ounce centennial hops-15 mins
.33 ounce amarillo hops-5 mins.
American ale yeast
Would like to know if this seems like it would produce a descent beer or if something seems off with my conversions or such any advice would be appreciated
 
If ambient temperature is 64* and I put my LBK in a cooler what kind of fermentation temps can I expect?
Will I need to wrap the fermenter in towels to keep temps around 70-72* for a Hefeweizen? Or do I need to seek another spot to ferment?
 
I made a Mr. Beer kit and put in the sugar as I bottled it. BUT the kit also came with carbonation pills that weren't in the directions but I added them because they were in the box so I thought I was supposed to. DONT add both!! My beer is extremely sweet now :( I guess the carbonation pills are basically sugar so do one or the other
 
I made a Mr. Beer kit and put in the sugar as I bottled it. BUT the kit also came with carbonation pills that weren't in the directions but I added them because they were in the box so I thought I was supposed to. DONT add both!! My beer is extremely sweet now :( I guess the carbonation pills are basically sugar so do one or the other

It won't be sweet when its done bottle conditioning... but if you put BOTH in the bottles, you're probably going to have too much carbonation, or bottle bombs.
 
I actually got a Mr. Beer kit as a Xmas gift and used the pilsner LME it brought along w/ 3.3lb wheat LME, an oz. of Hallertaue hops and a vial of WhiteLabs Hefeweizen 3000 yeast to make it into a what tasted like a nice hefe when I bottled (also dropped frozen Meyer lemon peels into the fermenter). I also had a 1 gallon carboy from a Brooklyn kit I got a while back, so I made 3 gallons instead of 2.

Tomorrow's the big day, got my fingers crossed.
 

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