Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[bpgreen]

Thanks for the info. I did shake it up a bit last night and moved it to where it will be about 68 degrees. I'll give it a couple of days and see if it drops any then if it doesn't will bottle.

Why did you shake it up? Generally, you want to just let it sit. The fermentation creates a layer of CO2 on top that keeps the oxygen away. Shaking it could expose it to the air. Oxygen is needed in the early stages, but later on, it can lead to earlier staling. Shaking could also disturb the trub layer and you really want that to settle as much as possible before bottling.

 

[Bigarcherynut]

Why did you shake it up? Generally, you want to just let it sit. The fermentation creates a layer of CO2 on top that keeps the oxygen away. Shaking it could expose it to the air. Oxygen is needed in the early stages, but later on, it can lead to earlier staling. Shaking could also disturb the trub layer and you really want that to settle as much as possible before bottling.

Ok. Guess I said that wrong. I did a very gentle swirl of the LBJ not a shake. I was told to do that on another batch I had to raise up the yeast a little. Oops. I guess if this creates a problem I won't do that again. Well time will tell.

 

[bpgreen]

Ok. Guess I said that wrong. I did a very gentle swirl of the LBJ not a shake. I was told to do that on another batch I had to raise up the yeast a little. Oops. I guess if this creates a problem I won't do that again. Well time will tell.

A gentle swirl is very different from a shake.

 

[cstrom]

So this may be a dumb question but i just started using mr beer 2 gallons and i know you have to keep it at a certain temp and oxygen can be bad for the fermentation after the initial start. So my ''newb'' quetion i guess you could say is how do you test the temp with out exposing your fermentation to oxygen and contamination?

 

[bpgreen]

So this may be a dumb question but i just started using mr beer 2 gallons and i know you have to keep it at a certain temp and oxygen can be bad for the fermentation after the initial start. So my ''newb'' quetion i guess you could say is how do you test the temp with out exposing your fermentation to oxygen and contamination?

Use a stick-on thermometer. Ambient temperature doesn't work, since fermentation creates heat.

I think they have them at mrbeer.com or other online brew stores. You can also find them at pet stores in the aquarium section (note: these usually have a smaller range than the ones at beer stores but will probably suffice until you get more advanced).

 

[bigbadbrewer330]

Just got a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas. Need some help with it all. Just starting need help to create extract recipes (don't really like what they offer for refills) I downloaded a calculator to help me create said recipes but need help to understand phrases and ect. and any advice.

 

[brewski09]

The best place to start is by reading a book. I recommend the complete joy of Homebrewing. Then start making beer styles you love (don't start with lagers, they require extra technique And are a lot less forgiving)

 

[bigbadbrewer330]

I was thinking of doing a brown porter

 

[The_Professor]

Just got a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas. Need some help with it all. Just starting need help to create extract recipes (don't really like what they offer for refills) I downloaded a calculator to help me create said recipes but need help to understand phrases and ect. and any advice.

I was thinking of doing a brown porter

Nothing wrong with finding a recipe and giving it a try.
An easy way to get instructions is to find an online store with a Beer Recipe Kit. The one trouble is that they are usually 5 gallon recipes so it works better if you have 2 Mr. Beer kegs.
Some recipe calculators will resize a 5 gallon recipe to whatever you want (2.12, 2.5).

 

[Scotts7]

Hi all,
I received a Mr. Beer LBK Kit for Christmas. I started my first batch of the supplied Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner yesterday when I got back home. I don't have a temp strip but I do have a I/R temp gun. I have aquariums and use the temp gun for more accurate readings of temps. My question is it ok to use a I/R temp gun with a laser pointer on it to check the temp of the little keg? Thanks in advance.

 

[bpgreen]

Hi all,
I received a Mr. Beer LBK Kit for Christmas. I started my first batch of the supplied Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner yesterday when I got back home. I don't have a temp strip but I do have a I/R temp gun. I have aquariums and use the temp gun for more accurate readings of temps. My question is it ok to use a I/R temp gun with a laser pointer on it to check the temp of the little keg? Thanks in advance.

I've never done it, but I know people who have. You should be able to get a good temperature reading with that.

 

[Scotts7]

Thank you for the input.

 

[azmark]

IR gun works great. Remember for the first few days keep be beer under 70* if at all possible.

 

[Scotts7]

Thanks for the input.

 

[kwalchicago]

Sweet thread, although I received a kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop and not Mr Beer but I can't imagine the two being worlds apart. I'm also hoping to upgrade my equipment after 2-3 batches on this little guy. This forum is awesome so far.

 

[cstrom]

So i bottled my first batch that came with the mr beer set i believe it was american light beet or something any who its been about four days since its been sitting in the bottle carbonating and i decided to try one to see how it tasted. It was still flat and kinda had a odd taste as you went deeper into the glass. My question is will this smooth out as it continues to sit and will it become more carbonated? All the bottles were washed with unscented soap and sanitized with star san and followed the carbonation directions that came with the kit This was my first batch and im hopping i didnt mess it up any advice would be awesome

 

[chuckcomm]

It will smooth out. Best to let them carb a couple weeks. 4 days isnt really enough to carb. I normally try one after a week because Im anxious to see how they are doing. Normally they are well carbed after two to three weeks in the bottle.

 

[ericbw]

So i bottled my first batch that came with the mr beer set i believe it was american light beet or something any who its been about four days since its been sitting in the bottle carbonating and i decided to try one to see how it tasted. It was still flat and kinda had a odd taste as you went deeper into the glass. My question is will this smooth out as it continues to sit and will it become more carbonated? All the bottles were washed with unscented soap and sanitized with star san and followed the carbonation directions that came with the kit This was my first batch and im hopping i didnt mess it up any advice would be awesome

It will get better. Sit on it for 2-3 weeks.

 

[brewshki]

So I have moved on from using mr beer ingredients, but I do use it as my fermenter. For the first time, I had it overflow out of the fermenter. It didn't pop the top off and only a small amount leaked out the side. I'm not too worried about that as I am hoping that means it was pushing so much out nothing bad came in (again the lid didn't come off)

The reason I posting is to see if anyone has any experience with that happening and if there is anything I should worry about.

I am also brewing a hefe tomorrow and am worried about it doing the se thing or maybe even worse. Any tips, to avoiding it or will all be ok?

Thanks,

John

 

[azmark]

So I have moved on from using mr beer ingredients, but I do use it as my fermenter. For the first time, I had it overflow out of the fermenter. It didn't pop the top off and only a small amount leaked out the side. I'm not too worried about that as I am hoping that means it was pushing so much out nothing bad came in (again the lid didn't come off)

The reason I posting is to see if anyone has any experience with that happening and if there is anything I should worry about.

I am also brewing a hefe tomorrow and am worried about it doing the se thing or maybe even worse. Any tips, to avoiding it or will all be ok?

Thanks,

John

I've had a couple of overflows. I actually mixed up some sanitizer, took the cap off, sanitized the cap, sanitized around the top, then screwed the cap back on. Beer came out fine. Once the most active fermentation has taken place you have alcohol so the possibility of infection is lessened.

 

[brewshki]

I've had a couple of overflows. I actually mixed up some sanitizer, took the cap off, sanitized the cap, sanitized around the top, then screwed the cap back on. Beer came out fine. Once the most active fermentation has taken place you have alcohol so the possibility of infection is lessened.

I just went ahead and did that. I have a little spray bottle I put some starsan in and opened it up and sprayed the top and the edge of the lid. Then I closed up really quick. I'm not too worried about it as there is still a good about of krausen and I think fermentation is still active enough to push out any oxygen that went in

 

[BaylessBrewer]

New here so just wanted to say hi and ask a quick question.
Can you use a LME for a 5gal in a mr beer LBK? Would it turn out fine or would it be too strong? Would you use double yeast since the wort would be double for the container size?
Any input will help.
Thanks
Damien

 

[jimjohson]

I started with a MrB kit in '12. brewed exactly 3 of their HMEs by then I had read How to Brew. My 4th batch was a partial mash American Wheat. Just because I've moved on is no reason to look down on MrB brewers. Hell it's better than BMC, and they are brewing...However basically. "Different strokes for different folks."

 

[BigDog007]

I bottled my first batch of MrBeer tonight. I ordered a full setup as well as visited my LHBS last weekend. I am very excited to brew some better quality stuff. I tasted my first batch and it definitely tastes like beer, didn't impress me but I'm hoping it gets a little better after bottle conditioning in my closet and cold conditioning in the fridge. At least I can have a home brew while doing my first real 5 gallon batch...

The last bottle had tons of sediment in it and was so cloudy, all of the other bottles looked good, I had to tilt the keg to get it to fill the last one so I decided to dump it. It looked pretty disgusting and didn't figure it was worth waiting on.

I do have a question. My wife had purchased a refill kit that has two cans of extract. One of them is the Light Beer and the other a Mexican Cervesas. I don't intend to use any other MrBeer kits after those are gone but I hate to waste stuff. Could I just combine both of the ones I have left in one batch? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it would cause any major issues. I was thinking this would bring the ABV up as I suspect it is very low. I didn't have a hydrometer or refractometer to test my first batch but will have one by Thursday when I plan on brewing the last MrBeer stuff I have.

What are everyone's thoughts on this?

Thanks,

RP

 

[ericbw]

I bottled my first batch of MrBeer tonight. I ordered a full setup as well as visited my LHBS last weekend. I am very excited to brew some better quality stuff. I tasted my first batch and it definitely tastes like beer, didn't impress me but I'm hoping it gets a little better after bottle conditioning in my closet and cold conditioning in the fridge. At least I can have a home brew while doing my first real 5 gallon batch...



The last bottle had tons of sediment in it and was so cloudy, all of the other bottles looked good, I had to tilt the keg to get it to fill the last one so I decided to dump it. It looked pretty disgusting and didn't figure it was worth waiting on.



I do have a question. My wife had purchased a refill kit that has two cans of extract. One of them is the Light Beer and the other a Mexican Cervesas. I don't intend to use any other MrBeer kits after those are gone but I hate to waste stuff. Could I just combine both of the ones I have left in one batch? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it would cause any major issues. I was thinking this would bring the ABV up as I suspect it is very low. I didn't have a hydrometer or refractometer to test my first batch but will have one by Thursday when I plan on brewing the last MrBeer stuff I have.



What are everyone's thoughts on this?



Thanks,



RP

Yes you can do that. You could do some calculations so you don't end up with an 8% light beer. But they should be fine together.

 

[ericbw]

New here so just wanted to say hi and ask a quick question.
Can you use a LME for a 5gal in a mr beer LBK? Would it turn out fine or would it be too strong? Would you use double yeast since the wort would be double for the container size?
Any input will help.
Thanks
Damien

You can't do a 5 gallon batch in Mr. Beer, if that's what you mean.

You can use 1 can of LME (3.3 lbs) to make the 2.13-2.5 gallon batch. It's the perfect size.

Mr. Beer kits use 2g of yeast. I would use about 5g or half a pack of regular yeast.

 

[BaylessBrewer]

You can't do a 5 gallon batch in Mr. Beer, if that's what you mean.

You can use 1 can of LME (3.3 lbs) to make the 2.13-2.5 gallon batch. It's the perfect size.

Mr. Beer kits use 2g of yeast. I would use about 5g or half a pack of regular yeast.

Thanks for the info.
I was asking if the 3.3lb LME could be used in the LBK. Kinda like double the LME?
I feel like the LME that came with it is kinda weak so that's why I want to step it up a little.
I plan on visiting my LHBS to pick up some things for my next batch and plan on getting some better quality yeast. It didn't seem like the yeast that came with it was very active for very long. Major activity only lasted maybe 24hrs.

 

[ericbw]

Thanks for the info.
I was asking if the 3.3lb LME could be used in the LBK. Kinda like double the LME?
I feel like the LME that came with it is kinda weak so that's why I want to step it up a little.
I plan on visiting my LHBS to pick up some things for my next batch and plan on getting some better quality yeast. It didn't seem like the yeast that came with it was very active for very long. Major activity only lasted maybe 24hrs.

One can of LME in the LBK (filled to the markings, which is 2.125 gallons) will give you an OG of about 1.055. That should get you an ABV around 5.8%. But if you fill it to 2.5 gallons, it brings it down to about 4.9%. Depends on what you want to make/drink. (You can also adjust it up a little with DME, which you can measure out in small quantities. It's harder to do that with sticky LME!)

Do you know what kind of beer you want to make next? There are many ways to make a good recipe with a can of LME, one ounce of hops, and a pack of yeast. It would be cheaper than a Mr. Beer refill kit. If you want to add steeping grains, that is also easy to do, and opens up even more possibilities.

As for yeast, you could pick up a pack of US-05 or S-04 for a few dollars. You could split that in half and get two batches out of it. Again, it depends on what you're making.

I get overwhelmed when I have too many choices, so here is a good start for a basic amber ale as an example:

1 can amber LME
1 oz Cascade hops, divided
1/2 packet of US-05

I would bring about 1.5 gallons to a boil.

Set the timer for 60 minutes, add about 1/3 of the LME and .5 oz hops.

Add the remaining hops when there is 20 minutes left in the boil.

Add the remaining LME when there is 10 minutes left.

You can follow the Mr. Beer method then of adding about a gallon of cold water to the fermenter. Then cool down the pot and add it to the fermenter. Top it up to the markings. Make sure it is cooled down to about 70 degrees before pitching HALF the packet of yeast.

Ferment in the mid-60s for 3 weeks.

That's only slightly more complex than Mr. Beer. You can easily vary it by changing 1, 2, or 3 of the basic ingredients. For instance:

You could use Fuggles hops and S-04 yeast to get a British style ale.

If you like American-style pale ales, then add another .25 to .5oz (or more) of Cascade hops when you turn the heat off.

If you like hefewiezens, then wheat LME, Hallertau hops, and WB-06 yeast.

You can also learn to play with the amount of hops AND when you add them.

If you like that, then you might start adding steeping grains to vary things as well.

This forum has a lot of recipes, including 1 gallon. But I wish there were more Mr. Beer hacked recipes posted here.

Probably the two most important things are to sanitize like your life depended on it, and then to give it time in the fermenter to finish. Especially if you're stepping it up with more fermentables.

 

[azmark]

I believe in the new kits (last 1.5 years) the yeast packs have been 4g.

 

[BaylessBrewer]

One can of LME in the LBK (filled to the markings, which is 2.125 gallons) will give you an OG of about 1.055. That should get you an ABV around 5.8%. But if you fill it to 2.5 gallons, it brings it down to about 4.9%. Depends on what you want to make/drink. (You can also adjust it up a little with DME, which you can measure out in small quantities. It's harder to do that with sticky LME!)



Do you know what kind of beer you want to make next? There are many ways to make a good recipe with a can of LME, one ounce of hops, and a pack of yeast. It would be cheaper than a Mr. Beer refill kit. If you want to add steeping grains, that is also easy to do, and opens up even more possibilities.



As for yeast, you could pick up a pack of US-05 or S-04 for a few dollars. You could split that in half and get two batches out of it. Again, it depends on what you're making.



I get overwhelmed when I have too many choices, so here is a good start for a basic amber ale as an example:



1 can amber LME

1 oz Cascade hops, divided

1/2 packet of US-05



I would bring about 1.5 gallons to a boil.



Set the timer for 60 minutes, add about 1/3 of the LME and .5 oz hops.



Add the remaining hops when there is 20 minutes left in the boil.



Add the remaining LME when there is 10 minutes left.



You can follow the Mr. Beer method then of adding about a gallon of cold water to the fermenter. Then cool down the pot and add it to the fermenter. Top it up to the markings. Make sure it is cooled down to about 70 degrees before pitching HALF the packet of yeast.



Ferment in the mid-60s for 3 weeks.



That's only slightly more complex than Mr. Beer. You can easily vary it by changing 1, 2, or 3 of the basic ingredients. For instance:



You could use Fuggles hops and S-04 yeast to get a British style ale.



If you like American-style pale ales, then add another .25 to .5oz (or more) of Cascade hops when you turn the heat off.



If you like hefewiezens, then wheat LME, Hallertau hops, and WB-06 yeast.



You can also learn to play with the amount of hops AND when you add them.



If you like that, then you might start adding steeping grains to vary things as well.



This forum has a lot of recipes, including 1 gallon. But I wish there were more Mr. Beer hacked recipes posted here.



Probably the two most important things are to sanitize like your life depended on it, and then to give it time in the fermenter to finish. Especially if you're stepping it up with more fermentables.

What you're saying is spot on to my thinking.
The classic american light that came with it seems very light. It's been brewing 7 days and I sampled it yesterday and it tasted kinda like champaign beer at best. But it did taste like beer. I plan on bottling next Saturday.
I've been liking wheat beers lately so I think I'll do a "easy please me weiss" style next.