Moving to partial mash - what equipment should I get?

[njohnsoncs]

I'm moving from extract kits to BIAB partial mashes. I'm doing partial mashes because I hope the flavor of my beers will be better, it looks more fun, and I live in an apartment with an electric stove (so boils over about 3 gallons take forever). I have most equipment including:

- 5 gallon kettle with lid, paddle, hydrometer, thermometer,
- 6.5 gallon primary bucket, 5 gallon secondary carboy, 6.5 gallon bottling bucket.

From all the guides/threads I've read, all I need are another kettle to boil sparge water, and a bag to hold the grains. I'm wondering what you guys would recommend to buy, in particular, the kettle. I could purchase a 3 or 4 gallon kettle such as

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCWGF0L/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

However, if it is easier with a large/smaller kettle or if it is expected that I will move to all grain maybe a different kettle would be a better choice? I want to avoid purchasing a kettle and then a few months later needed to purchase a different one if my method changes.

Also, what grain bag would you recommend? I've seen guides which wrap the bag around the kettle and others which tie the bag and let it float in the middle of the kettle. Is either method preferred over the other?

 

[bleme]

I used 5 gallon paint strainer bags for years. Wilser makes custom bags that are considerably better, but cost $27 shipped.
http://biabbags.webs.com/

What are your electrical options? Do you have any 220v sockets? Have you considered an electric element like the BoilCoil, an Induction Burner, the Grainfather or the Mash & Boil?

 

[njohnsoncs]

I used 5 gallon paint strainer bags for years. Wilser makes custom bags that are considerably better, but cost $27 shipped.
http://biabbags.webs.com/

What are your electrical options? Do you have any 220v sockets? Have you considered an electric element like the BoilCoil, an Induction Burner, the Grainfather or the Mash & Boil?

I only have 120v sockets. I don't want to spend a lot of money right now since I just got into brewing but those options may be in my future if I continue.

 

[kh54s10]

You really don't need anything different, except maybe a larger grain bag. If you did extract with specialty grains the muslin bags may be big enough. If not a 5 gallon paint strainer bag will work.

I did a mash, put my 5 gallon pot in a preheated oven to 150 degrees for the one hour mash, it held temperature well. About 1/2 to 1 gallon for a sparge. Boil, cool then top up water to 5 gallons. I used a colander to hold the grain bag for the sparge.

Wilserbrewer bags are the one I would buy. Bag over the lip or tied shut doesn't really matter as long as the grains are loose enough for the wort to move through.

If you are moving to all grain and buy a new kettle get a 10 gallon pot, if you plan on sticking to 5 gallon batches. If you plan to go bigger you will need a bigger pot.

 

[kh54s10]

What are your electrical options? Do you have any 220v sockets? Have you considered an electric element like the BoilCoil, an Induction Burner, the Grainfather or the Mash & Boil?

The Grainfather and Mash & Boil are both 110V units..

 

[z-bob]

All you need to get started is a paint strainer bag and the equipment you have, but it'll take some juggling. Another stockpot large enough to boil a gallon of water would be helpful but not necessary. And maybe another food-safe 5 gallon bucket.

You can heat your strike water in your existing 5 gallon kettle. Add the bag of grain and mash. Then there are all kinds of ways to proceed after that, like use the full volume of water for the mash and skip the sparge altogether. Or dunk sparge in the bucket while the first running are taking forever to come to a boil.

 

[bleme]

The Grainfather and Mash & Boil are both 110V units..

I didn't mean to imply that they were. Neither is the BoilCoil I referenced. I was just trying to figure out what his options were because boiling 6 gallons would be better than 3.

 

[z-bob]

I'm doing all-grain BIAB 4 gallon batches, mainly because my kitchen stove can't handle 5+ gallons but it will sort-of boil 4.5 gallons. I have just recently added a Hot Rod immersion heater to my bag of tricks, with a 1650W element. The element I picked is too long to fit in the old 22 quart canner I was using for a kettle, but it fits just fine in the 32 quart kettle I bought from a local brew club member. (there are shorter elements that would fit in my old kettle)

The Hot Rod has made all the difference in the world. I may keep doing 4 gallon batches instead of 5 because it's a good size and all my recipes are for 4, but I'm sure I could boil 6 or 7 gallons easily on my stove with this thing helping out. And it plugs into a normal 110V outlet but you could wire it for 220.

 

[njohnsoncs]

All you need to get started is a paint strainer bag and the equipment you have, but it'll take some juggling. Another stockpot large enough to boil a gallon of water would be helpful but not necessary. And maybe another food-safe 5 gallon bucket.

You can heat your strike water in your existing 5 gallon kettle. Add the bag of grain and mash. Then there are all kinds of ways to proceed after that, like use the full volume of water for the mash and skip the sparge altogether. Or dunk sparge in the bucket while the first running are taking forever to come to a boil.

This is interesting. So you're saying I could use, say, 3 gallons of water right away and skip the sparge all together? I'm not experienced with this yet but wouldn't that result in lower efficiency? If not, what is the point of sparging then?

Using another bucket, say my bottling bucket, is a nice idea though. However, is it OK to put 160 F water in one of the buckets? Are they rated for that?

 

[z-bob]

If you're brewing high gravity beers, it will result in lower efficiency, but another 1/4 pound of grain to make up for it is cheap. For normal-gravity beers, the BIAB folks in Australia say the efficiency is about the same. I sparge, but going to try doing full-volume mashing again in my quest to use my local water instead of buying RO water all the time. (bulk RO water is cheap, but the trips to the store are inconvenient)

HDPE buckets are good to about 220 or 230 degrees. I boil water in one. If your bottling bucket has a spigot, I don't know if the spigot can handle the heat. White 5 gallon buckets are pretty cheap at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

 

[njohnsoncs]

If you're brewing high gravity beers, it will result in lower efficiency, but another 1/4 pound of grain to make up for it is cheap. For normal-gravity beers, the BIAB folks in Australia say the efficiency is about the same. I sparge, but going to try doing full-volume mashing again in my quest to use my local water instead of buying RO water all the time. (bulk RO water is cheap, but the trips to the store are inconvenient)

HDPE buckets are good to about 220 or 230 degrees. I boil water in one. If your bottling bucket has a spigot, I don't know if the spigot can handle the heat. White 5 gallon buckets are pretty cheap at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

I've never done a partial mash before so I'm planning on using the kit https://www.love2brew.com/Mositra-Session-IPA-Partial-Mash-Kit-p/sbk033b.htm

The instructions say to use 1 gallon of water to mash in then sparge with 2.5 gallons. I do have a small pot that can hold about 0.5 gallons. Would it make a big difference if I used 3 gallons to mash in then sparge with 0.5 gallons? That way I sparge a little to increase efficiency (if possible) without having to buy new equipment.

I could also try to sparge with 0.5 gallons then heat up another 0.5 gallons so sparge with a total of 1.0 gallons. Will waiting for the water to reach temperature between sparges affect anything?

 

[z-bob]

You don't have any pots in your kitchen that can heat a gallon of water? 6-quart stock pot? And then sparge in a plastic bucket. (I'm making this up as I go )

 

[kh54s10]

I've never done a partial mash before so I'm planning on using the kit https://www.love2brew.com/Mositra-Session-IPA-Partial-Mash-Kit-p/sbk033b.htm

The instructions say to use 1 gallon of water to mash in then sparge with 2.5 gallons. I do have a small pot that can hold about 0.5 gallons. Would it make a big difference if I used 3 gallons to mash in then sparge with 0.5 gallons? That way I sparge a little to increase efficiency (if possible) without having to buy new equipment.

I could also try to sparge with 0.5 gallons then heat up another 0.5 gallons so sparge with a total of 1.0 gallons. Will waiting for the water to reach temperature between sparges affect anything?

You can actually sparge with cold water if you want. It will be a little less effective, but only slightly.

I would not mash 3 then sparge 1. At minimum sparge with half the total for preboil. So if 4 was the total, I might do 2 and 2.

I did kits by Northern Brewer I think they may have changed the procedure. I remember boiling about 2.5 gallons, ending with 1.5 to 1.75 gallons, then topping up to 5 gallons in the fermenter. It was 5 years ago so maybe I am wrong. They are asking for a full boil now. For me that is 7.3 gallons preboil.

If you do 5 gallon full boils you will want an 8 or 10 gallon pot and might not be able to do a full boil on a stove.

 

[njohnsoncs]

You don't have any pots in your kitchen that can heat a gallon of water? 6-quart stock pot? And then sparge in a plastic bucket. (I'm making this up as I go )

Unfortunately, no I don't. Haha. I lost a pot when I moved to my new apartment.

 

[njohnsoncs]

I'm looking at this grain bag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRKWD82/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The price is OK and it seems like it has worked for people.

 

[bleme]

I'm looking at this grain bag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRKWD82/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The price is OK and it seems like it has worked for people.

That is a paint strainer bag, you can get at your local hardware store. Lowe's sells 2 for $3.78. I have used it to mash in, to filter my wort, to dry hop, and to add fruit in 'secondary'. They are a great tool for your toolbag.

The only real difference between them and the higher quality polyester voile bags is polyester voile is stronger, has a finer mesh and has a higher melting point.

 

[z-bob]

Unfortunately, no I don't. Haha. I lost a pot when I moved to my new apartment.

Time to make a trip to the Salvation Army thrift shop or Goodwill.

I just thought of something... I wonder what temperature a 30-cup electric percolator holds at? Probably around 170°. Something else for me to experiment with.

 

[RM-MN]

I'm moving from extract kits to BIAB partial mashes. I'm doing partial mashes because I hope the flavor of my beers will be better, it looks more fun, and I live in an apartment with an electric stove (so boils over about 3 gallons take forever). I have most equipment including:

- 5 gallon kettle with lid, paddle, hydrometer, thermometer,
- 6.5 gallon primary bucket, 5 gallon secondary carboy, 6.5 gallon bottling bucket.

From all the guides/threads I've read, all I need are another kettle to boil sparge water, and a bag to hold the grains. I'm wondering what you guys would recommend to buy, in particular, the kettle. I could purchase a 3 or 4 gallon kettle such as

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCWGF0L/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

However, if it is easier with a large/smaller kettle or if it is expected that I will move to all grain maybe a different kettle would be a better choice? I want to avoid purchasing a kettle and then a few months later needed to purchase a different one if my method changes.

Also, what grain bag would you recommend? I've seen guides which wrap the bag around the kettle and others which tie the bag and let it float in the middle of the kettle. Is either method preferred over the other?

How about finding out what a difference all grain is and make some 2 1/2 gallon batches in the equipment you have with only needing to buy a paint strainer bag. Doing an all grain batch isn't much different than a partial mash and if you don't like the process or the results you can try the partial mash or go back to all extract with only the added expense of the paint strainer bags.:rockin:

 

[ericbw]

This is interesting. So you're saying I could use, say, 3 gallons of water right away and skip the sparge all together? I'm not experienced with this yet but wouldn't that result in lower efficiency? If not, what is the point of sparging then?



Using another bucket, say my bottling bucket, is a nice idea though. However, is it OK to put 160 F water in one of the buckets? Are they rated for that?

You'll never get all of the sugar out. When you sparge in a traditional mash tun, you're adding more water to rinse out more of the sugar. The idea in BIAB is that you can put all your water in to start, and you get what you get.

It takes more grain or a finer crush to get enough sugar.

Or you can dunk sparge. Or get a big strainer and put the bag over the pot, then pour sparge water through it. (I dunk in a separate pot then combine.)

You need one more pot to be effective. A 4 gallon is a good size and can be used for other stuff (soup, etc.)

What size batches?

 

[njohnsoncs]

How about finding out what a difference all grain is and make some 2 1/2 gallon batches in the equipment you have with only needing to buy a paint strainer bag. Doing an all grain batch isn't much different than a partial mash and if you don't like the process or the results you can try the partial mash or go back to all extract with only the added expense of the paint strainer bags.:rockin:

This is a good idea. I did just buy two partial mash kits so, for at least my next two batches, I will go with a partial mash.

You'll never get all of the sugar out. When you sparge in a traditional mash tun, you're adding more water to rinse out more of the sugar. The idea in BIAB is that you can put all your water in to start, and you get what you get.

It takes more grain or a finer crush to get enough sugar.

Or you can dunk sparge. Or get a big strainer and put the bag over the pot, then pour sparge water through it. (I dunk in a separate pot then combine.)

You need one more pot to be effective. A 4 gallon is a good size and can be used for other stuff (soup, etc.)

What size batches?

I'm making 5 gallon batches. I think what I've decided to try is to mash with 1.5 gallons of water in my 5 gallon brew kettle then heat up 1.5 gallons of water (in two separate iterations since my next largest kettle only holds 3/4 water) and dump it into a 6 quart crockpot I happen to have. This will help maintain the temperature and, when I'm ready to sparge, I will dunk sparge. This may get annoying after a while at which point I will probably just buy another kettle... haha

I am deviating from the recipe which came with my partial mash kits which says to mash with 1 gallon of water then sparge with 2.5 but I think it should be fine...