MM2 Mill powered with Garage Door Opener?

[wilconrad]

Awesome! This looks like a good alternative to the HF low-speed drill. Would you be willing to share more details about how to hook everything up? Enjoy your vacation!

As far as wiring, the motor has 4 wires coming out of it, here's how to wire it up:

White - ground - connect directly to input from outlet
Orange - not used
Red & Blue - connect to capacitor as delivered (power to red drives CW, power to blue drives CCW)

I then connected the incoming line voltage to a switch, and connected the hot side of that to the capacitor spade that resulted in the mill turning the correct direction. If you wire it up and the mill is turning backwards, just move the hot input from the switch to the other side of the capacitor.

I also grounded the motor & switch to the ground wire on the input cable. Here's a schematic:

And here's what it looks like:

 

[MaxStout]

As far as wiring, the motor has 4 wires coming out of it, here's how to wire it up:

White - ground - connect directly to input from outlet
Orange - not used
Red & Blue - connect to capacitor as delivered (power to red drives CW, power to blue drives CCW)

I then connected the incoming line voltage to a switch, and connected the hot side of that to the capacitor spade that resulted in the mill turning the correct direction. If you wire it up and the mill is turning backwards, just move the hot input from the switch to the other side of the capacitor.

Looking at the schemo...why not wire a double-throw switch, so that you can change directions. If something gets jammed, just switch the other direction to back it out.

 

[Gixxer]

Has anyone used a 3PH motor with a VFD to regulate the speed? Would be very easy to implement and I have all the parts already in my woodworking shop.

http://youtu.be/5jVr03ujj8k

That might be above most people (the VFD would be around $200) but it is fairly common in the tool world to run a 3PH motor with a VFD for speed control on tools like a drill or sander.

I have a Barley Crusher and run it with a drill, I won't invest the effort into motorizing my mill until I get a better mill...

Ben

I have a VFD that I wired up to a 240v 4 prong receptacle, and all of my machinery has a 4 prong 240v plug wired to em so I can plug and play multiple stuff and not have multiple VFD's. That being said, I have a spare motor C-face bolted to a 90deg gearbox that I believe is 5-1 (I think, I dont remember, have to look) so I can run the motor at a decent pace to get to 200rpm... Other thing is the motor is 3hp so I *know* that stalling is not going to be an issue. Planned install is in December when I get home. If you had a 1hp motor and no gearbox the only thing you might run into is the motor getting hot from not spinning fast enough for the fan to be effective if its TEFC. I would guess that you would be running at 10hz give or take... Just an uneducated guess.

------THREAD JACK DISENGAGE------

 

[mattd2]

As far as wiring, the motor has 4 wires coming out of it, here's how to wire it up:

White - ground - connect directly to input from outlet
Orange - not used
Red & Blue - connect to capacitor as delivered (power to red drives CW, power to blue drives CCW)

I then connected the incoming line voltage to a switch, and connected the hot side of that to the capacitor spade that resulted in the mill turning the correct direction. If you wire it up and the mill is turning backwards, just move the hot input from the switch to the other side of the capacitor.

I also grounded the motor & switch to the ground wire on the input cable. Here's a schematic:

And here's what it looks like:

How much was the shaft coupling, and where did you get it?
And if heat became and issue you could always put a top on the motor "box and wire in a 120V fan to run when the motor is running.

 

[Carlscan26]

Thanks much for the updates and pics!

One small note: I think you mean that the white wire goes to the neutral inbound not ground as that's a separate wire right?

 

[mattd2]

Thanks much for the updates and pics!

One small note: I think you mean that the white wire goes to the neutral inbound not ground as that's a separate wire right?

I think he means that both the white nad ground connect straight to their respective cables from the power cord

 

[wilconrad]

Thanks much for the updates and pics!

One small note: I think you mean that the white wire goes to the neutral inbound not ground as that's a separate wire right?

Correct

 

[wilconrad]

How much was the shaft coupling, and where did you get it?
And if heat became and issue you could always put a top on the motor "box and wire in a 120V fan to run when the motor is running.

Shaft coupling was ~$8 at Grainger. It's 1/2" on the garage door opener output, 3/8" on the mill.

 

[wilconrad]

Looking at the schemo...why not wire a double-throw switch, so that you can change directions. If something gets jammed, just switch the other direction to back it out.

True, if plugging becomes an issue I'll do that. I had a spare single switch laying around so used it.

 

[MaxStout]

True, if plugging becomes an issue I'll do that. I had a spare single switch laying around so used it.

Sure, you use what you have.

I have had an occasional feed jam on my MM2 (motorized), usually due to a kernel getting jammed in between the rollers, and the teeth can't grab it. I have to shut off power and turn back the pulley by hand to dislodge it. It would be nice to just flip the switch to reverse direction a few turns.

 

[funnycreature]

Shaft coupling was ~$8 at Grainger. It's 1/2" on the garage door opener output, 3/8" on the mill.

I might be stupid but how exactly do you connect the shaft of the opener to the shaft on the mill? I have the 1/2" shaft (MM2 2.0). Many thanks for the tutorial so far! Since my drill is also getting hot during the milling I wouldn't be too worried

 

[wilconrad]

I might be stupid but how exactly do you connect the shaft of the opener to the shaft on the mill? I have the 1/2" shaft (MM2 2.0). Many thanks for the tutorial so far! Since my drill is also getting hot during the milling I wouldn't be too worried

Lovejoy couplers (the brand of jaw-type couplers used here) are sold in halves. For the setup shown, you'd buy a 1/2" bore half, a 3/8" bore half and a rubber insert to connect the two and you're all set. In your case, since you have a 1/2" diameter shaft on your mill, it's even simpler (you'd just need 2 1/2" coupler jaws and a rubber insert).

For more info on Lovejoy couplers, here's a link to Amazon:
Amazon Lovejoy Coupling
I used the L050 series of coupling, the lowest torque / lowest cost type

 

[mavrick1903]

If you're buying the motor from Surplus Center, they also have a good price on Lovejoy (style, not brand) couplers.

 

[funnycreature]

If you're buying the motor from Surplus Center, they also have a good price on Lovejoy (style, not brand) couplers.

Like that?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1563-A&catname=electric

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Like that?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1563-A&catname=electric

Nope, not like you have pictured.........The ones mentioned allow for some SLIGHT misalignment between drive and driven shaft.

 

[funnycreature]

Nope, not like you have pictured.........The ones mentioned allow for some SLIGHT misalignment between drive and driven shaft.

OK makes sense. Thanks! For now I'll stick with my drill but it's still an interesting and inexpensive alternative

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Like these styles......................Watch what you're ordering.......Some are "2 fingered" and some "3 fingered".

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=powerTrans&keyword=PSF3

 

[kcolby]

I don't suppose anyone has a detailed parts list for a MM setup that they would like to share?

 

[funnycreature]

I don't suppose anyone has a detailed parts list for a MM setup that they would like to share?

+1 on the parts list. I'd hate to buy the wrong stuff

 

[wilconrad]

Ran a full test of this thing this evening and milled a full batch of 50% Wheat, 50% Munich. I started it up from a stop with 10.5lb of malt in the hopper and it crushed it all without issue. Gap on the rollers was set to 0.030". The motor was hot to the touch by the time it was done, but not hot enough to be concerned about.

Just a quick update here: I've milled 3 batches now with this setup and it's still going strong, no issues so far. It takes just under 3 minutes to mill a 10lb batch, so not the quickest in the world, but everything I've read says to err on the slow side so I'm happy with it. The crush looks good and efficiencies have been solid.

Here's a video of it closing out the batch I milled this morning:
[ame="http://youtu.be/kuPeF1M05pE"]http://youtu.be/kuPeF1M05pE[/ame]

 

[funnycreature]

Just a quick update here: I've milled 3 batches now with this setup and it's still going strong, no issues so far. It takes just under 3 minutes to mill a 10lb batch, so not the quickest in the world, but everything I've read says to err on the slow side so I'm happy with it. The crush looks good and efficiencies have been solid.

Here's a video of it closing out the batch I milled this morning:
Video Link: http://youtu.be/kuPeF1M05pE

Thanks! It seems to be very quite as well. Biggest issues for me using the drill are the inconsistent speeds, noise and that it sometimes struggles.

 

[wilconrad]

Looking at the schemo...why not wire a double-throw switch, so that you can change directions. If something gets jammed, just switch the other direction to back it out.

Milled batch #4 with this setup today and had the mill jam. I had to reverse the wire on the capacitor to get it to back up, and was able to finish the rest of the batch without an issue. Will be adding a double throw switch as Maxstout suggested to allow for easy reversal in this situation in the future.

 

[wilconrad]

Added fwd/rev and enclosed the motor & gear reducer (with some holes to vent heat). Still going strong.

 

[501irishred]

Added fwd/rev and enclosed the motor & gear reducer (with some holes to vent heat). Still going strong.

Great job! Most LHBS would be envious.

 

[funnycreature]

Sweet! Would you mind listing all the individual items for dummies like me? I might be able to figure out the connector thing from posts above. Thanks a bunch!

 

[wilconrad]

Great job! Most LHBS would be envious.

Ha, thanks Irish!

 

[wilconrad]

Sweet! Would you mind listing all the individual items for dummies like me? I might be able to figure out the connector thing from posts above. Thanks a bunch!

Sure thing, will give it a shot:

Garage Door Opener Motor & Gearcase: $9.95
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1677&catname=electric

L050 Lovejoy Coupling, made up of:
Drive side, 1/2" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWO0G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Driven Side, 3/8" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWNX4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Rubber Spider: $2.10
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWQJK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

10A DPDT Toggle Switch (Used for FWD/REV): $4.49
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062514

Single Pole 15A Light Switch $0.69
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...t-Almond-R56-01451-02T/100669880#.UhGUWtKt3Ws

White Lithium Grease (I added this to the worm gear after the first batch to help it out with the load/duration, I had noticed some wear during the first batch but it's looked clean since I put this stuff on there). $4.58
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil-8-oz-White-Lithium-Grease-10533/202535870#.UhGV7dKt3Ws

Other than the wood, the mill itself, and the stereo cabinet (which I bought at goodwill for nothing), I think that's it. Motorized for <$40!

Let me know if I missed anything and/or you still have questions about the guts. Happy to help a fellow cheapskate

 

[wilconrad]

Sweet! Would you mind listing all the individual items for dummies like me? I might be able to figure out the connector thing from posts above. Thanks a bunch!

Also, here is a pic of the motor side with holes drilled for venting.

 

[wilconrad]

Sweet! Would you mind listing all the individual items for dummies like me? I might be able to figure out the connector thing from posts above. Thanks a bunch!

And here's the updated wiring, now that I've added a fwd/rev toggle switch.

 

[funnycreature]

Sure thing, will give it a shot:

Garage Door Opener Motor & Gearcase: $9.95
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1677&catname=electric

L050 Lovejoy Coupling, made up of:
Drive side, 1/2" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWO0G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Driven Side, 3/8" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWNX4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Rubber Spider: $2.10
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWQJK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

10A DPDT Toggle Switch (Used for FWD/REV): $4.49
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062514

Single Pole 15A Light Switch $0.69
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...t-Almond-R56-01451-02T/100669880#.UhGUWtKt3Ws

White Lithium Grease (I added this to the worm gear after the first batch to help it out with the load/duration, I had noticed some wear during the first batch but it's looked clean since I put this stuff on there). $4.58
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil-8-oz-White-Lithium-Grease-10533/202535870#.UhGV7dKt3Ws

Other than the wood, the mill itself, and the stereo cabinet (which I bought at goodwill for nothing), I think that's it. Motorized for <$40!

Let me know if I missed anything and/or you still have questions about the guts. Happy to help a fellow cheapskate

First off, thanks for all the effort! I will go through the list soon. Reason why I'm interested again is that it took me 30 min last weekend to mill my conditioned grain using the HFT drill. I already shaved most of the flats of shaft off thanks to it just spinning around I was hoping that a real motor might prevent that.

If I have a 1/2" shaft on the mill which adapter (highlighted above) would I need? Wish I had more DIY experience to figure it out myself... Thanks! :rockin::rockin: