Mash with one step?

[Michael_Calgary]

Well the good news is, less is what you're really after. Just start adding some acid in the Water Adjustment tab to get your pH into range and you're good to go. I'd still go with RO water and salts personally. Keep in mind your water report is a snap shot in time, municipal water supplies can and do change seasonally and even day to day. But you're on the right track!

Yup! I've been brewing all grain for just over a year now and I have noticed differences from brew to brew of the exact same beer.

So just out of curiosity. In the pic attached, I have put 8.5 gallons water for the mash and none for sparge. I have adjusted the Lactic acid amount till the estimated mash pH was in the "green". as I still want to do no sparge mash, would this work or am I being silly?

thx

 

[TheHopfather]

That'll work. You still need some chloride to match the profile you have selected, which will add calcium as well, which will drop your pH a bit. But you can do a full volume mash like that.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

oh and just messing around, I noticed removing mash acids and adding calcium chloride to the water also lowers pH. would that also work?

 

[Michael_Calgary]

That'll work. You still need some chloride to match the profile you have selected, which will add calcium as well, which will drop your pH a bit. But you can do a full volume mash like that.

oh wait.. is this what you mean? (marked in attached pic.)

 

[TheHopfather]

Yup, that is exactly what I mean. Calcium will lower the mash pH a bit on its own, so you need to use less acid to keep it in range. Looks like you're well on your way to water adjustment.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

oh wait.. is this what you mean? (marked in attached pic.)

oh wait.. hahah I was looking at chloride not calcium.. shoot.

 

[TheHopfather]

Well... you are adding Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) in the sheet, you get them both. Don't be scared of a little more calcium then the profile recommends, its good for the yeast and helps clear the beer when it's done. I don't think it has an effect on the final flavor of the beer but don't quote me on that one.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

Yup, that is exactly what I mean. Calcium will lower the mash pH a bit on its own, so you need to use less acid to keep it in range. Looks like you're well on your way to water adjustment.

anyway, once I actually pay attention to which column in the sheet I am looking at, I think the fog is starting to lift... I didn't even realize I could choose a beer profile! it's starting to make sense.

 

[hawkbox]

Also, all those profiles are actually at the bottom of that page, so you can edit them! I did not know that until yesterday.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

Also, all those profiles are actually at the bottom of that page, so you can edit them! I did not know that until yesterday.

Yup! and you can also select the profile in the spot that I have marked on the attached image. I didn't realize that was a drop down menu. This is what happens when we don't RTFM!!! hahaha

 

[z-bob]

The pH of the mash is the important part. The sparge is simply rinsing the already converted sugars out of the wet grains. However, the mineral composition of the sparge water will affect the flavor of the beer. If it really takes a lot of acid to balance the pH of the water you use you may make better beer if you buy "spring water" for the mash and sparge.

That's true; and I used to buy RO water, or sometimes the "spring water" from Menard's. (I got the spring water mostly for the nice plastic carboys.) But I'm trying to see what I can do using straight Rochester water with only minor adjustments.

If I ever get around to brewing a Czech pils, I will use RO water for that.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

OK, So today I brewed my "Standard" SMaSH Ale. Before I started, I re-calibrated my pH meter correctly! Distilled water, two different pH buffering solutions... (thx schematix!)

I decided to do a no-sparge mash again. I added the required additions calculated by Bru'n water and began the mash, around 15 mins in, I pulled a sample and cooled it quickly to measuring temp. I was at pH 5.3. Now my meter is not very good as it won't read two digits past the decimal. But... I was certainly right in the meat and potatoes of the pH I was supposed to be at! At the end of the mash, I pulled another sample and set it aside to measure later. When I measured it, it was at pH 5.4. I think I've got a handle on this water adjustment thing now.

The wort cleared so nice during crash cool. Now the wait is on to see if it tastes any different.

Guys... thx so much for helping me out!

 

[schematix]

OK, So today I brewed my "Standard" SMaSH Ale. Before I started, I re-calibrated my pH meter correctly! Distilled water, two different pH buffering solutions... (thx schematix!)

I decided to do a no-sparge mash again. I added the required additions calculated by Bru'n water and began the mash, around 15 mins in, I pulled a sample and cooled it quickly to measuring temp. I was at pH 5.3. Now my meter is not very good as it won't read two digits past the decimal. But... I was certainly right in the meat and potatoes of the pH I was supposed to be at! At the end of the mash, I pulled another sample and set it aside to measure later. When I measured it, it was at pH 5.4. I think I've got a handle on this water adjustment thing now.

The wort cleared so nice during crash cool. Now the wait is on to see if it tastes any different.

Guys... thx so much for helping me out!

That's exactly what you want to see. You nailed it! Once of the "secrets" to getting crystal clear beer without filtering or fining is proper mash pH. You can tell in the kettle when the pH is right because you get fluffy hot break formation and when you chill you get tons of cold break formation that settles quickly. If you can avoid getting that stuff into the fermenter you'll be rewarded with with some of the clearest beer you've ever homebrewed.

Your meter isn't quite precise enough to make fine adjustments but you know you're in the ballpark and that's good. Keep using the spreadsheets and verifying with your meter.

 

[Michael_Calgary]

That's exactly what you want to see. You nailed it! Once of the "secrets" to getting crystal clear beer without filtering or fining is proper mash pH. You can tell in the kettle when the pH is right because you get fluffy hot break formation and when you chill you get tons of cold break formation that settles quickly. If you can avoid getting that stuff into the fermenter you'll be rewarded with with some of the clearest beer you've ever homebrewed.

Your meter isn't quite precise enough to make fine adjustments but you know you're in the ballpark and that's good. Keep using the spreadsheets and verifying with your meter.

Thank you. I forgot to mention that I just used charcoal filtered tap water on this brew. Next brew I will do a lager and I am going to try with RO water and use additions that you and the water additions article that was referenced in this post suggest. (and of course confirm with Bru'n Water) Soon I am going to get a much better pH meter so that should help dial in. I keep a hand written log of every brew I do and now I'll be adding pH readings to it. So maybe one day this info will be useful. I use a counter flow chiller and I pump the hot wort through it and the outflow is back in the top of the kettle. My goal is to try and get a whirl pool going. It does spin, but I need a stronger pump. Anyway, I've never seen wort this clear before. I almost started to get worried.. but then common sense took over and I realized that this MUST be a good thing. Even now in my primary, I cannot see any trub or sediment at the bottom of it.