mash step after draining

[grathan]

Do any enzymes remain after draining the mash tun?


For example: I do an infusion for my sach rest at 148*F and want a second rest for 155*F after 30 minutes, but I don't have the volume space nor the desire to deal with too much water to boil off.

So can I drain the mash tun, and then add a second infusion to get to 155*F and complete my sach rest, or did the enzymes flow out with the first drain?

 

[GCPHomebrew]

If you don't want To boil off water Start with less water. You will lose around a gal for a 60min boil. add amylase enzyme, I do just in case. Why not. Problem solved. IMHO I start with 8ish gal to leave lots if turn in the boil kettle and still get 5-5.5 gal. I only worry about OG.


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[grathan]

This is a fairly big beer so my mash it pretty thick to begin.

amylase sounds neat. does it taste the same as grain supplied amylase?

 

[GCPHomebrew]

No noticeable flavor. I step mash. To be honest on most brew(especially big ones) I add a beano tab at 135 and amylase at 145. Saves time waiting and guarantees full conversion.


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[VladOfTrub]

If you have a small extra boiler, may be consider a small volume decoction. There wouldn't need to be a large volume decoction to raise the 148F beta rest to 155F alpha rest. There would be no need to deal with enzymes as they would be left in the main mash throughout both rests. Just a thought about an alternative method.. Brew On!!!

 

[tootal]

I'm with Vlad. The enzymes are in the liquid so if you pull off some of the grist and boil it for 5 minutes or so and then add it back, keeping an eye on the temps, you won't have anymore concerns over too much water. It will probably taste better too. I've been becoming a big fan of a single decoction on all my lighter beers. I like the mouth feel and the melanoidans.

 

[Oginme]

You basically have three options:

The first is to drain a small part of the water out and add hot water to raise the temperature of the remaining grist. You will only affect the portion of the starches/dextrins which remain with the grains.

The second is Vlad's suggestion of doing a partial decoction. This will probably give you the best results, as you will only be denaturing a small portion of the enzymes and will not dilute the wort.

The third will be to drain the wort and add back amylase enzymes after adding hot water to bring your grist up to the rest temperature you want. Again, you will only be affecting the portion of the starches/dextrins which are not drained away with the first wort.

 

[Denny]

Your other option is to not do a step mash. I would wager that in a side by side blind tasting you can't tell the difference.

 

[grathan]

I probably wouldn't. I was 10 degrees low from my target though, ended up low 140's.

Decoction, that didn't even cross my mind at the time. Good stuff. Thanks. I'll be all set next time.

 

[tommysauder]

I just let get 3.75 gallons of water to 162, toss in cooler add grains and mix thoroughly to get rid of balls and until 152F is hit. Let it sit for 60-90 minutes depending on what I'm making. Drain, add in 5.5 gallons of 170F water. Let it sit for 10 minutes, drain into kettle and boil it. I have been getting just over 75% efficiency and good tasting beer

 

[Denny]

I just let get 3.75 gallons of water to 162, toss in cooler add grains and mix thoroughly to get rid of balls and until 152F is hit. Let it sit for 60-90 minutes depending on what I'm making. Drain, add in 5.5 gallons of 170F water. Let it sit for 10 minutes, drain into kettle and boil it. I have been getting just over 75% efficiency and good tasting beer

FWIW, that 10 minute wait is doing nothing but wasting your 10 min.

 

[LLBrewer]

I'm with Denny. Single infusion, batch sparge is the way to go. Why complicate the process for no perceivable gain?