Looking to get into mashing

[TySmith40]

I have been brewing mostly with extracts but I really want to get into more AGs. What all equipment is required for starting to mash? I only brew 5 gallons at a time if that helps

 

[Mozart]

I've been an extract brewer myself, but looking to take the same plunge with my next batch by doing a partial or mini-mash using the BIAB (boil in a bag) technique.

The beauty of this is it gets me into mashing without any additional equipment, like a mash tun.

I highly recommend the sticky on the subject.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/

Cheers!

 

[MTate37]

An eight to ten gallon pot, propane burner and paint strainer bag will allow you to do full volume BIAB, which is an all-grain method and makes great beer if your process is sound. There is a ton of info on BIAB here, on the web and BIABrewer.info...check it out. I thought that I would use BIAB as an in-between step from extract to something along the lines of a three-tier system, but I enjoy it so much that I don't see myself changing the process for a long time.

 

[spark_plug]

What Mozart said!

BIAB is a fantastic start into AG with minimal equipment. Get yourself a large enough boil pot to do it, a 10 gal pot would be best as you would be looking at a 7 gallon pre boil volume so you end up with your 5 gallon.

You'll never want to do an extract again after you taste your AG brews. Well I shouldn't say that, I've made some really awesome extracts, so still grab one once in awhile.

 

[unionrdr]

PB/PM BIAB has been easy for me after getting the basics down. Almost 2nd nature at this point. Mash 5-6lbs of grains in 2 gallons of water @ 152-155F generally for an hour. Sparge with 1.5 gallons to get boil volume of 3.5 gallons. With this amount of grains,they form about 50% of the fermentables. So the extract waits till flame out. Works reall well,especially with my new grain mill. My OG's are definintly up. I have to say,set up the hand crank properly,& it's fine for the amount of grains partial mash typically uses. I also read where drills,motors,etc can be the cause of premature wear. Idk about that,but it sounds like it could be possible. Some reported having the knurls wearing down on the rollers. I'll stick with the crank handle,thank you. It doesn't take long & isn't strenuos.
So partial mash partial boil biab is very doable & cheaper to get into than cooler mash tuns,& all the usual suspects to get started with grains.

 

[brewkinger]

Since the BIAB'ers have chimed in and covered the essentials, I will start to address additional equipment that is needed for full AG.

Some sort of cooler (round Igloo, rectangular, etc..) that can be easily and cheaply converted into a mash/liquor tun (MLT)
long handled spoon,ladle or paddle for stirring mash and boil
Refractometer for testing gravity on the fly.

I am sure that I am missing some stuff, but between all the posts so far, it is pretty much covered.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

Don't forget to check out Deathbrewer's stickies/threads about BIAB AG and PM here on HBT. Dude does a great job of making mashing accessible to brewers of all experience levels.

 

[brewkinger]

Don't forget to check out Deathbrewer's stickies/threads about BIAB AG and PM here on HBT. Dude does a great job of making mashing accessible to brewers of all experience levels.

I knew that I forgot something. Indeed check out the multitude of information in the stickies.

 

[Mozart]

Just to follow-up, if you're curious as to what I'm thinking about doing for my first mini-mash, you can read about it here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/planning-my-first-partial-mash-418523/

But don't feel obligated to do what I'm doing! One of the beauties of mini-mashing is that it opens up a much broader range of recipe choices.

Since I already have a 20 qt. stock pot that I've been using for extract brews, mini-mashing is the perfect way for me, personally, to get into mashing as I won't have to buy any additional equipment (I already have the large mesh bag as I've been using it to strain wort as it goes from kettle to fermenter).

If I fall in love with the technique, I might then step it up to a 7 or 10 gallon pot and a propane burner and do full-volume BIAB, but then again, maybe not, as I do like brewing indoors in my kitchen.

Lots of good ideas out there! Pick what you think works best for you, and welcome to mashing!

Cheers!

 

[DirtyOldDuck]

You do not NEED a whole lot of additional equipment to switch to AG, even if you don't do BIAB. Personally, I did one BIAB, thought it was a hassle (because of the somewhat narrow opening in my keggle) and made an MLT for less than $20 (CPVC manifold and ball valve) out of a 52 quart rectangular I already had for years. I also had an old propane burner from a smoker. Much easier than lifting heavy bags of hot, wet grain, and not much harder to clean. You don't NEED a second burner and HLT. Lauter your wort into buckets (like the fermentor and bottling bucket you might already have) and heat your sparge water with your BK. So, basically you don't need much more than a cheap cooler MLT to do AG without doing BIAB.

 

[DocScott]

+1 to DirtyOldDuck. YOu will need to make or buy a manifold or false bottom to drain the mash tun during the lauter. I made mine from CPVC as well - took about an hour. You'll also need a valve to control your outflow from the mash tun. Other than that, you'll need what others mentioned; 8-10gallon pot, cooler to act as mash tun. That's really it. It is a lot simpler than its made out to be.

 

[TheZymurgist]

Just like the others have said, the only additional equipment that would be REQUIRED is a muslin or similar bag to do BIAB. That's the cheapest way to start. Whether you go the BIAB/Cooler/Direct Fire method all depends on your preferences, budget, and space. My first batches were partial mashes, and I went straight to the cooler method. I chose to buy a false bottom, rather than making a manifold or using a braided hose, mostly because I didn't care to bother with it. I found a great deal on a cooler conversion kit, and couldn't be happier.

Honestly, if you're thinking about dropping coin on the move to all-grain, I would consider purchasing either temperature control or O2 & yeast starter equipment first (if you haven't already.) Those two have had the most significant impact on the quality and consistency of my beer. A cheap craigslist cooler with a temperature controller, or an oxygenation system and a stir plate can do wonders for your beer.

 

[unionrdr]

I gave up on muslin grain sacks for biab. Can't stir the mash with a bag that stretches closed. I use them for whole leaf hops instead. I got a nylon paint strainer bag now that allows the mash to be stirred,so as to elliminate dough balls & such. My efficiency went up. Then getting a grain mill with a 7lb hopper increased my efficiency even more. But temp control & good yeast pitch are def priorities as well.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

You do not NEED a whole lot of additional equipment to switch to AG, even if you don't do BIAB. Personally, I did one BIAB, thought it was a hassle (because of the somewhat narrow opening in my keggle) and made an MLT for less than $20 (CPVC manifold and ball valve) out of a 52 quart rectangular I already had for years. I also had an old propane burner from a smoker. Much easier than lifting heavy bags of hot, wet grain, and not much harder to clean. You don't NEED a second burner and HLT. Lauter your wort into buckets (like the fermentor and bottling bucket you might already have) and heat your sparge water with your BK. So, basically you don't need much more than a cheap cooler MLT to do AG without doing BIAB.

One positive into draining your wort into your fermenting bucket is that you can get an accurate pre-boil volume and gravity measurement before you start the boil. These measurements can help in tools like Beersmith to figure out your efficiency.