List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[MT2sum]

Nope, didn't help me a bit (I know, I'm a dummy!) -
The way I understand contactors and relays is; IF I run a 12v line to the coil, that actuates the relay (NO to NC). IF I run 240v (L1 & L2) to one side of the relay and run the corresponding wires to the heating element (L1 & L2) on the other side of the relay, when the coil is actuated by applying 12v, the contacts in the relay go from NO to NC, so I will then have 240v power going across the relay to the elements. This is how I understand them to work - is this what you meant by the above explanation?
TIA

I guess what I need to do is figure out how to scan my wiring diagram (actually taken and modified from one or two of PJ's), onto my computer and then I could post it to see if one of you electronic geniuses will tell me if it works or not, and why (or why not)! I'm a computer illiterate, so that will take some doing!

I am a retired Appliance repairman, and have worked with a lot of wiring diagrams in the past (none using relays, STC1000's, rheostats, power switching units, V/A/W meters and such, all that was already done for us - never had to design my own system .... but I'd like to get some input as to whether what I know now is the same as what I think I remember knowing in the past! Age does have a way of clouding the memory ;>).

 

[KartRacer54]

Is their a determining factor that makes use of circuit breaker setup necessary, as some drawings include them and others just utilize the existing contactors and switches to provide control.
In process of a 2-5500 watt and 2000 rims.
Thanks in advance.

 

[ajdelange]

A circuit breaker is used when a circuit needs to be broken. There are a couple of reasons why a circuit needs to be broken. One is simply when it must be disconnected from its supply such that no part of its load is energized. This would be the case when it is to be serviced, inspected, repaired, modified or removed or when having it energized represents a hazard as, for example, when one is working near it even though not working on it. Or simply when it is to be turned off. Think if the lights in your high school gym.

Circuit breakers are frequently used for disconnection as described above but one doesn't need a circuit breaker to disconnect a load. A circuit breaker also has the ability to open a circuit if the load on that circuit is excessive to the point where either the equipment or the wiring to it may be damaged. The circuit breaker is thus a protective device as well as a switch. Most electrical codes require a circuit breaker to protect wiring from the location of the breaker (panel) to the load, i.e. the wiring in the walls of your house. If you plug a 30 amp load into a 15 amp outlet the wire will carry more current than wire of its size (#14) should and it will get hot. The circuit breaker prevents this by opening if 30 amps is drawn for more than a few seconds (to handle,for example, startup demands of motors but not their locked rotor loads). Protection of devices or parts of devices themselves is left to breakers or fuses installed as part of the equipment.

Circuit breakers are also available which open if current in the circuit returns through other than the design path (GFCI/ELCB) to include arc and phase to phase fault protection. These are special breakers and cost more as do ones that can be remotely (shunt) tripped by a control signal.

The general rule of thumb is that if something down stream of the feed requires over current, leakage, or other protection, use a breaker. Otherwise, (adequate protection is installed elsewhere) a simpler (less expensive) disconnect will do.

 

[KartRacer54]

A circuit breaker is used when a circuit needs to be broken. There are a couple of reasons why a circuit needs to be broken. One is simply when it must be disconnected from its supply such that no part of its load is energized. This would be the case when it is to be serviced, inspected, repaired, modified or removed or when having it energized represents a hazard as, for example, when one is working near it even though not working on it. Or simply when it is to be turned off. Think if the lights in your high school gym.

Circuit breakers are frequently used for disconnection as described above but one doesn't need a circuit breaker to disconnect a load. A circuit breaker also has the ability to open a circuit if the load on that circuit is excessive to the point where either the equipment or the wiring to it may be damaged. The circuit breaker is thus a protective device as well as a switch. Most electrical codes require a circuit breaker to protect wiring from the location of the breaker (panel) to the load, i.e. the wiring in the walls of your house. If you plug a 30 amp load into a 15 amp outlet the wire will carry more current than wire of its size (#14) should and it will get hot. The circuit breaker prevents this by opening if 30 amps is drawn for more than a few seconds (to handle,for example, startup demands of motors but not their locked rotor loads). Protection of devices or parts of devices themselves is left to breakers or fuses installed as part of the equipment.

Circuit breakers are also available which open if current in the circuit returns through other than the design path (GFCI/ELCB) to include arc and phase to phase fault protection. These are special breakers and cost more as do ones that can be remotely (shunt) tripped by a control signal.

The general rule of thumb is that if something down stream of the feed requires over current, leakage, or other protection, use a breaker. Otherwise, (adequate protection is installed elsewhere) a simpler (less expensive) disconnect will do.

Thanks, so the circuit breakers, being after the 50amp GFCI ARe protecting the system forward. Makes sense now. I guess those that did not have them were on 30amp GFCI.
Thanks again.

 

[boxkicker]

I am looking online for the fuses, and I am not very electrical savvy. I am looking at the 1 element, one pump 120v 20a diagram. Which fuses should I buy, looking online I am getting overwhelmed

Thanks guys

-Dan

 

[Supra97gte]

I am also looking to put together the 120v and am trying to source out the parts. Boxkicker, if you search amazon for 1amp fast blow fuses and 4 amp fast blow I found 5 of tem

 

[Supra97gte]

Disregard that, hit post by accident. I found two packs of 5 fuses for like $5 and then search fuse holders, I found 5 fuse holders to fit 5mmX20MM fuses and they are attached to 16g wire. My question to anyone who may be able to help me is in regards to the transistors in PJ's schematic for the single pid/pump/120v element. I'm well versed in electrical from a contracting and house building standpoint, however, I'm lacking in electronics. If I understand the sketch correctly I need to install two 1k ohm 1 watt transistors in succession on one hot line leading to the E-stop. Will I need to get a breadboard or pcb of some kind to attach the transistors? I found the transistors on amazon as well just looking for means to attach them after the in line fuses.

Also regarding the switches and e-stop, what specific criteria is mandatory for this 120v set up. What kind/size switches do I need? Thanks in advance to all for the help.

 

[Supra97gte]

This is the original sketch I will be working off of.

 

[doug293cz]

Disregard that, hit post by accident. I found two packs of 5 fuses for like $5 and then search fuse holders, I found 5 fuse holders to fit 5mmX20MM fuses and they are attached to 16g wire. My question to anyone who may be able to help me is in regards to the transistors in PJ's schematic for the single pid/pump/120v element. I'm well versed in electrical from a contracting and house building standpoint, however, I'm lacking in electronics. If I understand the sketch correctly I need to install two 1k ohm 1 watt transistors in succession on one hot line leading to the E-stop. Will I need to get a breadboard or pcb of some kind to attach the transistors? I found the transistors on amazon as well just looking for means to attach them after the in line fuses.

Also regarding the switches and e-stop, what specific criteria is mandatory for this 120v set up. What kind/size switches do I need? Thanks in advance to all for the help.

Those are resistors, not transistors. You can just solder them in-line with the fuse holder and cover with shrink wrap tube. No need for any mounting hardware.

Brew on

 

[Supra97gte]

Lol that's them. And awesome thanks, that was my next action if I Dident get any feedback on here. Thank you sir

 

[Supra97gte]

Those are resistors, not transistors. You can just solder them in-line with the fuse holder and cover with shrink wrap tube. No need for any mounting hardware.

Brew on

Would you normally cover the entire resister with shrink wrap tube or just the leads you will be soldering. I don't think it would effect the entire unit but figured id ask.

 

[doug293cz]

Would you normally cover the entire resister with shrink wrap tube or just the leads you will be soldering. I don't think it would effect the entire unit but figured id ask.

Put one longish piece of shrink tube over both resistors and all the leads (2 places), and then put another piece over the first one, just to get some additional insulation for extra safety.

Brew on

 

[Supra97gte]

Put one longish piece of shrink tube over both resistors and all the leads (2 places), and then put another piece over the first one, just to get some additional insulation for extra safety.

Brew on

Thanks pal

 

[heckabrew]

Looks like all of the linked photos in the OP are down. I'm looking for a 50a 3 element diagram, anyone have a copy in their archives?

 

[MBN]

Looks like all of the linked photos in the OP are down. I'm looking for a 50a 3 element diagram, anyone have a copy in their archives?

They have been down for a few days. Google has the stored thumbnails of the pictures but the links are dead. Try a search in google with the set up the way you want it. You may find it is hosted someplace else. I was lucky enough to have the one I needed on another thread. Hope this helps.

 

[KartRacer54]

I may have what you are looking. I made copies of images that I am working with.

 

[acidrain]

I may have what you are looking. I made copies of images that I am working with.

Anybody with saved images should host them, or give them to somebody to host them.

I could do it if nobody else wants to, but it would be nice if they were all hosted from the same site.

I've got a Photobucket account that has been hosting images on other sites for many many years.

 

[bdogg171]

Great idea acidrain, I never saved any cuz there was always tomorrow DOH!!

 

[heckabrew]

here are a couple that I had saved previously, I encourage everyone else to do the same, these things are great resources!

 

[Surfmase]

Hi guys, i'm trying to organize my ideas for a bcs herms setup. I am leaning towards 3 phase 400v service. This is europe. I've found 3 phase elements and ssrs among other items, but i'm having trouble with a diagram. Any chance one is floating around here? I found some for split phase which seems different from what i'm looking for. Thanks

 

[MBN]

Here is another..Looks like single element one pump 220V

 

[mmmbeer31]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum. Does anyone know if a schematic exists for a 2 kettle setup with 2 separate circuits in the same panel? My mash tun with RIMS and pump will be on a 120v 20a circuit and my BK/HLT will be on a 240v 30a circuit. I want to be able to still use my controller when I brew outside with propane, hence the separate 120v circuit for just the pump and RIMS element. I'd like to have 1 power switch only. I have 2 PIDs already. Thanks in advance.

 

[jerryk]

I have decided to build a box and have started to look at different setups. I do have a few diagrams but none match exactly. But I should not have a problem combining them.

But if someone has one that matches I would be grateful.

I want to have the ability to run three elements at once and two pumps. The elements are:
HLT 3750W. 16A
RIMS 3500W. 15A
BK 5000W. 21A

Also I just would like a Rheostat through a SSVR for the BK.

I am planning on 60A service.

Any thoughts would be great.
Thanks.

 

[Wolfairious]

These are the 2 I saved. I am looking for the 50a 2 element pid switched diagrahm

 

[jerryk]

These are the 2 I saved. I am looking for the 50a 2 element pid switched diagrahm

Thanks.

 

[BYOBKC]

I have a good idea of what I'm doing here, but I'm no electrician. I am hoping someone has a diagram to simplify my crossbred ElectricBrewery and EBrewSupply build.
-50A back to back
-RIMs, BK, HLT elements with 2 elements active at any given time. Switch will control between RIMs unit and BK.
Pics represent current progress
TYIA

 

[Wolfairious]

You looking for something like this:

 

[BYOBKC]

close, I also have a RIMS element and a switch to select between the RIMS and BK.
Missing in diagram:
-timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0140R1ZAC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
-shunt and display array
-3 SSRs vs 2
-I only have one alarm
-RIMS

This appears to be the closest example that I can find.

 

[BigFloppy]

 

[Austinjs0102]

Just was looking through my drive and i believe i had most of PJ's wiring guides.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3vePHEj1uiCTDNPRGZnTkUweUk

Just wanted to make sure everyone can see and work in the projects they need.