Line balancing question

[user 141939]

I have a two tap kegerator with a stainless tower. The kegerator was made with copper pipes for cooling, with the copper extending below the kegs.

So when I hook up my liquid lines, they go down first towards the bottom of the kegerator, and then into the copper and all the way up to the tower.

So for the height calculation, should I be measuring just from the top of keg to tower (about 1.5 ft? Or the bottom of the copper pipes (about 3 ft)?

It also looks like I need at least 6 ft of length to make it to the tower, which looks like it means I need to use 1/4" ID. Because my calculations for 3/16" would put me at about 3.5 ft (not long enough).

It seems like 3/16" is the recommended diameter. Why is this? Is there a reason to not use 1/4", if I need the length?

Thanks,

Sorry for the long post and many questions.

 

[william_shakes_beer]

you should measure the "average " liquid height, which means the center of the keg. Oh, and once you're done with the calcs, add 2 feet. You can make it shorter, you can't make it longer. Use the smaller ID lines, and use bev lines Not PVC tubing from the hardware store.

 

[doug293cz]

I have a two tap kegerator with a stainless tower. The kegerator was made with copper pipes for cooling, with the copper extending below the kegs.

So when I hook up my liquid lines, they go down first towards the bottom of the kegerator, and then into the copper and all the way up to the tower.

So for the height calculation, should I be measuring just from the top of keg to tower (about 1.5 ft? Or the bottom of the copper pipes (about 3 ft)?

It also looks like I need at least 6 ft of length to make it to the tower, which looks like it means I need to use 1/4" ID. Because my calculations for 3/16" would put me at about 3.5 ft (not long enough).

It seems like 3/16" is the recommended diameter. Why is this? Is there a reason to not use 1/4", if I need the length?

Thanks,

Sorry for the long post and many questions.

If your calculator is saying you only need 3.5' lines, it's a crap calculator (most of them are.) Use this calculator instead: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/.

You measure the height from the middle of the keg to the tap. The fact that the line goes down and back up only affects the length, not the height differential.

1/4" line is never appropriate for a kegerator or keezer. 1/4" doesn't have enough flow resistance for lines shorter than 35' - 40'.

Brew on

 

[user 141939]

Wow thanks to you both for the quick replies. I'll use the calculator you linked to and great point about adding some extra lenght as well.

 

[MikeSkril]

L = (keg_pressure – 1 – (Height/2)) / Resistance

Height: From the middle of the keg to the shank
Resistance: resistance of your beerline

Which line will you use?

 

[user 141939]

L = (keg_pressure – 1 – (Height/2)) / Resistance

Height: From the middle of the keg to the shank
Resistance: resistance of your beerline

Which line will you use?

I'm guessing it will be 3/16" vinyl according to the calculator posted above. Like I said, I need at least 6 feet just to get from the keg to the shanks.

And I might pick two different PSIs for the two faucets. I would like to have one side that I could do low to medium carbed beers, and another side be for medium to highly carbed beers. I have no idea what ideally what PSI I should pick for this, maybe 12 and 16 PSI?

 

[Yooper]

I'm guessing it will be 3/16" vinyl according to the calculator posted above. Like I said, I need at least 6 feet just to get from the keg to the shanks.

And I might pick two different PSIs for the two faucets. I would like to have one side that I could do low to medium carbed beers, and another side be for medium to highly carbed beers. I have no idea what ideally what PSI I should pick for this, maybe 12 and 16 PSI?

Yes, 12 is a good all around basic carb level, at 40 degrees, and 16 psi is more of a highly carbed beer but generally not yet "spritzy" Temperature matters- if the fridge is much warmer or colder than 40 degrees, you'll want to adjust accordingly.

3/16" beerline is widely available at homebrew stores. Make sure it's beverage line and not vinyl line from home depot!

 

[user 141939]

Yes, 12 is a good all around basic carb level, at 40 degrees, and 16 psi is more of a highly carbed beer but generally not yet "spritzy" Temperature matters- if the fridge is much warmer or colder than 40 degrees, you'll want to adjust accordingly.

3/16" beerline is widely available at homebrew stores. Make sure it's beverage line and not vinyl line from home depot!

Thanks, 12 and 16 it is then.

Totally on board with the beerline. I'll be heading to homebrew shop once I figure it all out.

BTW I made your pale ale this summer, was a pretty big hit with everyone!