smashed4
Well-Known Member
I have a very simple setup for my HLT :
20 amps, 12 awg circuit with 20 amps GFCI breaker
4500w water heater element installed in kettle
In-line DPST "light switch" like this one :
2 Pole Switch 20 Amp 120/277v
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-pole-switch-20-amp--120277v--white.1000159440.html
So instead of a fancy PID, I just turn it ON to start heating the water and OFF when I reach strike temp. Simple as that.
The switch has been used for about 20 hours in its lifetime.. did maybe a dozen batches with it in about a year.
Last brew session, the switch failed!
I thought it was the heating element that failed but I tested the circuit with a voltmeter and I have 246v coming in the switch, and only about 30v coming out of the switch in ON position.
I have a second, identical circuit with the same switch model and I have 246v going in and 246v going out. This circuit is used with a 3500v induction plate for the brew kettle and it works fine.
I did notice once that the light switch was slightly warm when the electric element was on, but nothing extreme so I did not put too much attention on it..
I inspected the wiring and the connection on the switch and it is solid and tight and there is no visible heat marks or loose connections..
Is it normal for a light switch to fail so early?
Should I replace it with a higher rated switch? There seems to be 30 amps switches in the same form factor available.. but the circuit and breaker are 20 amps and they never tripped.. why would a 20 amps switch fail so fast ??
Did I just get a bad switch ??
Thanks!
20 amps, 12 awg circuit with 20 amps GFCI breaker
4500w water heater element installed in kettle
In-line DPST "light switch" like this one :
2 Pole Switch 20 Amp 120/277v
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-pole-switch-20-amp--120277v--white.1000159440.html
So instead of a fancy PID, I just turn it ON to start heating the water and OFF when I reach strike temp. Simple as that.
The switch has been used for about 20 hours in its lifetime.. did maybe a dozen batches with it in about a year.
Last brew session, the switch failed!
I thought it was the heating element that failed but I tested the circuit with a voltmeter and I have 246v coming in the switch, and only about 30v coming out of the switch in ON position.
I have a second, identical circuit with the same switch model and I have 246v going in and 246v going out. This circuit is used with a 3500v induction plate for the brew kettle and it works fine.
I did notice once that the light switch was slightly warm when the electric element was on, but nothing extreme so I did not put too much attention on it..
I inspected the wiring and the connection on the switch and it is solid and tight and there is no visible heat marks or loose connections..
Is it normal for a light switch to fail so early?
Should I replace it with a higher rated switch? There seems to be 30 amps switches in the same form factor available.. but the circuit and breaker are 20 amps and they never tripped.. why would a 20 amps switch fail so fast ??
Did I just get a bad switch ??
Thanks!