did a gravity of my last batch of a 40 gallon and did a fly sparge. got my amount of wort but still had some wort left so did a gravity reading and I had 1020 is this normal? I was told that you last drops should be around 1006? I was aiming for 1060 but only got 1057. Trying to pin down a solution to my problem and need help thx.
last run off OG 1020???
- Thread starter Pdaigle
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Most recommendations I have seen are to stop sparging when the wort reaches an SG of 1.010 to 1.012, in order to minimize the possible extraction of tannins and silicates. Of course if you get your pre-boil volume before the SG reaches the lower limit, then you should also stop sparging (or decide to boil longer if you have the required kettle volume.)
If you are sparging too fast, that might decrease the efficiency of your spage, and the result could be higher than expected final runnings SG.
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If you are sparging too fast, that might decrease the efficiency of your spage, and the result could be higher than expected final runnings SG.
Brew on
To get more extract from the malt you need to sparge more. If you use a bit less malt next time you should be able to get closer to your expected end point with the same amount of water and hopefully make your target gravity as well.
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If your wort is still at 1.020 there is still sugar to be extracted but with the quantity you are brewing you need to calculate whether it is economical to sparge more to get those sugars or if it would pay to increase the base malt a bit more. When you sparge to get that extra little bit of sugar you have to boil off the excess water and that isn't free.
@ 1020 you still had good wort left.
You also, did not hit your post boil gravity of 1060?
You could have continued to sparge until you have enough strong enough wort to boil down to 1060. Let’s say 44 gallons @1054 would have reduced to 40gal @ 1060.
This is assuming you had enough room in the boil kettle to collect the extra wort.
You also, did not hit your post boil gravity of 1060?
You could have continued to sparge until you have enough strong enough wort to boil down to 1060. Let’s say 44 gallons @1054 would have reduced to 40gal @ 1060.
This is assuming you had enough room in the boil kettle to collect the extra wort.
This is what I had to do
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Ok. That’s good you adjusted and made the beer work!
So why didn’t you hit target gravity at Target preboil volume.
Grain crush.
Mash pH
Mash tun? @ 40 gallon batches curious are to what you are using.
as grain bill?
No. Mash tun design could effect your efficiency.
Are you running 40 gallon batches thru a 1/2” bazooka tube? If yes your efficiency might suck.
Using a proper mash tun, full sized false bottle? Then mash tun design is not causing poor efficiency. Back to grain crush and pH.
Are you running 40 gallon batches thru a 1/2” bazooka tube? If yes your efficiency might suck.
Using a proper mash tun, full sized false bottle? Then mash tun design is not causing poor efficiency. Back to grain crush and pH.
Full size false bottom. I have a spike brewing system. one thing I noticed since I do full batch that I have to stir my grain all the way through my mash to reach my mash temp. I can also see my flow drop if I don't. I recirculate my wort.
That’s a great system! So we can’t blame it for poor efficiency.
Are you adjusting and measuring mash pH. And equally important, your sparge water pH. You want the sparge water below 6 pH. I aim for 5.5
Crushing grain your self? Or LHBS? Most mills at most stores are pretty worn out. And give you a poor crush, and bad efficiency.
Are you adjusting and measuring mash pH. And equally important, your sparge water pH. You want the sparge water below 6 pH. I aim for 5.5
Crushing grain your self? Or LHBS? Most mills at most stores are pretty worn out. And give you a poor crush, and bad efficiency.
I'm not adjusting my mash PH. I crush my grain. I have a barley crusher
Something is wrong there. Maybe you're milling too finely, or shredding husks, resulting in a grain bed that isn't permeable enough. That could also explain your last runnings being higher than expected, while coming up short on pre-boil gravity. Too much wort remains trapped in the grist.
For batches that size a pH meter is not a luxury. Even a $150 Hach Pocket Pro+ will do that job. You definitely need to calculate and adjust mash pH. Then measure it to confirm your parameters are as estimated, then fine tune from there.
You may need a 3-roller mill to reduce husk shredding while keeping efficiency high.
fragged
Well-Known Member
I agree OP needs to look at mash pH. After tuning in my brew'n water spreadsheet, I really don't know that you need a Ph meter though. I agree at this scale it isn't a bad call, but not a requirement IMO.
I have a meter and as I eluded to, I found my pH was always right on my what my spreadsheet estimated. I still check it, but the last few batches it has really just been a confirmation activity, I'm quite confident of what it will read before I take the reading.
To get there, every other aspect of my game needed to be precise.
1)Grains entered into sheet with accuracy to the tenth when weighed out.
2) Measuring water additions on a scale thay measures grams to the hundredth.
3) Measuring acid additions in ml via syringe.
4) Accurately measuring strike and sparge water to the tenth of a gallon.
If I nail those physically and on the sheet, my pH is exactly what the sheet said it would be.
I don't fly sparge and have never taken a pH reading. I don't know the nuances of large batch size and fly sparging have on the need to check pH.
What has been covered:
Poor circulation = look at grain crush.
High gravity at the end of the sparge = grain crush, pH, sparge time. It might be as simple as the sparge was done too fast.
Low OG = .003 is within range of what I expect with my system. I almost always am off of prediction by a couple of points. Does a system like that allow that accuracy?
What has been covered:
Poor circulation = look at grain crush.
High gravity at the end of the sparge = grain crush, pH, sparge time. It might be as simple as the sparge was done too fast.
Low OG = .003 is within range of what I expect with my system. I almost always am off of prediction by a couple of points. Does a system like that allow that accuracy?
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