I like how your dog food fermenting container makes award winning beer.
Ironic, isn't it?
It was actually a brewing 'hand-me-down' from another award winning brewer. He used to make barleywines in it. They were excellent.
I like how your dog food fermenting container makes award winning beer.
For Zippox and Serial:
1) You could do that. It would be thick and hard to get the DME to dissolve, but it can be done. You would end up with a 1.180 boil. Also, extract adds volume, so be aware that adding 12# of DME to 3 gallons will push it north of 3 gallons total volume.
2) I also added all my extracts at the beginning, then waited for the boil to start as usual and then started my timer.
Couple minor things. How would you top off the wort to 10 gallons in a container like that? I don't really suppose you would put a permanent marker line on the inside or anything. And when it comes time to siphon to the two carboys, is that vittles vault movable when there is 10 gal of heavy wort? Or do you leave it elevated so you can transfer later on without moving it?
I have a Keg I was going to do this in (yay for shared homebrew club equipment!), but if you think it'll be to thick even at that volume, I'll break it down into two boils. Plan was to start with about 12 gallons of water, then add water at the end once the boil is over to get me back up to 10 gallons total volume, then split into to 6gal carboys. After that it would be time to forget it in the basement and let it age until spring of 2014.
AmandaK - I'm going to be trying my hand at a couple lambics this year and had a question I'd like to run by you. For my usual ales and lagers (5 gallon batches), I usually use liquid yeast and always use a starter. With lambics is a starter needed or warranted? The yeast I am planning on using is the Wyeast Roeselare blend (Wyeast #3763). I was planning on brewing a standard lambic recipe, pitching the pack, and letting it go for at least a year. I'm a big fan of sour beers so I was planning on pitching the dregs from bottles throughout the year.
I'm wondering, could you explain your fermentation process a bit? Does it stay at 65F the entire secondary as well? Do you pitch yeast dregs over time, or all at once in primary?
I apologize if this has been asked, I read the entire thread, but I'm on my cell phone so I skimmed a couple comments.
Do you have plans to age any of your batches on fruit?
I would not make a starter for the sour mixes from Wyeast. In fact, I pitch one smack pack of Lambic Blend into 10 gallons and that seems to work for me.
One important note though, WY3763 is a great yeast, but it will not make a lambic. WY3728 is the only yeast from Wyeast that makes a good lambic. 3763 is more sour, cherry pie and fruitiness (think New Belgium's sours). 3728 is more funky, a softer sourness and overall more 'lambic-like' (think Cantillon/Boon).
i don't have a lambic blend, but i have a lacto and pedio from wyeast, would i just make 3-5 gallons of this and dump both in? any suggestions?
Tarheel4985 said:This seems like a dumb question, but I didn't see it answered anywhere else. Would converting this to All Grain affect the lambic fermentation at all? I assume because of the fermentability of extract there would be variations but wasn't sure if there would be other considerations in brewing this one all grain.
You can make great lambics with extract but I think it's much easier to awesome lambics all grain. If you don't feel like doing a traditional turbid mash, mash high at 157-158 F and sparge with 175-185 F water. You wanna make tons of complex sugars and tannins for the Brett to work on. Tons of lambic recipes online... Check out themadfermentationist's lambic posts. Do 7-7.5 pounds of pilsner, 3-4 lbs of raw unmalted wheat, or flaked wheat. Skip the malodextrin
Don't just pitch 3278 Lambic blend. I like 3763 more, but pitch dregs, other cultures, or just ECY. It'll make a better lambic. And remember to age it for at least a year, especially all grain
I ended up using Cuvee Rene - the local liquor store just got a brand new case in the other day so it's about as young of a bottle as I am going to get here in MN. I was expecting more sourness from the first sip but after letting it sit in the glass and giving my mouth a chance to get used to it, I really enjoyed it and it seemed to become more sour. Personally it was too carbonated for me to be able to drink it right away so letting it sit for 30 minutes in a wider-mouthed glass brought it to a perfect level of carbonation. Brewing went well, with just a minor boil over. Hope in 30 days when I transfer it to the carboy I see some nice pellicle!
Zippox said:I have read numerous times that people say roselare young does not give the strong sourness that the lambic blend gives. But most people say that with age the sourness will come through.
Zippox said:In general, is it necessary to add new yeast during bottling? If it is, which yeast and how's that done?
Just throw it in the bottom of the bottling bucket and siphon the beer from the carboy on top of it? No need to wait and can go straight to bottling?
I would not make a starter for the sour mixes from Wyeast. In fact, I pitch one smack pack of Lambic Blend into 10 gallons and that seems to work for me.
One important note though, WY3763 is a great yeast, but it will not make a lambic. WY3728 is the only yeast from Wyeast that makes a good lambic. 3763 is more sour, cherry pie and fruitiness (think New Belgium's sours). 3728 is more funky, a softer sourness and overall more 'lambic-like' (think Cantillon/Boon).
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