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Komos V2 Kegerator, compressor not coming on, it is making the clicking noise but is not coming on

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Sorry to read all this. I just bought the Kegland Series X as a scratch & dent from Williams Brewing. So far (1 week in) I absolutely love it. But if it doesn't make it at least 3 years, I will be disappointed. I hope you were able to salvage yours in some way (even if just re-using parts).
 
Sorry to come late to the party but wondering if this was resolved. I picked up a komos from a friend moving back to Ireland (less than 2 years old). It worked well for this long weekend. Just cleaned everyone and loaded with two kegs. This afternoon there was a bit of a rattle noise with the compressor running that my wife alerted me to. I came to investigate and couldn’t find anything clanking together on top or inside. It clicked off before I could roll in back from the wall and look at compressor. Thought many a loose screw or something. I asked her to open the door and turn down the temp so compressor would kick on. Wouldn’t restart. Tired unplugging for 10-20min without luck. I’m noticing the led is blinking now between two temps 2 degree F apart every 10seconds or so. I’m guessing that is a clue to the issue but haven’t been able to find any info on that. Any ideas?
 
Sorry to come late to the party but wondering if this was resolved. I picked up a komos from a friend moving back to Ireland (less than 2 years old). It worked well for this long weekend. Just cleaned everyone and loaded with two kegs. This afternoon there was a bit of a rattle noise with the compressor running that my wife alerted me to. I came to investigate and couldn’t find anything clanking together on top or inside. It clicked off before I could roll in back from the wall and look at compressor. Thought many a loose screw or something. I asked her to open the door and turn down the temp so compressor would kick on. Wouldn’t restart. Tired unplugging for 10-20min without luck. I’m noticing the led is blinking now between two temps 2 degree F apart every 10seconds or so. I’m guessing that is a clue to the issue but haven’t been able to find any info on that. Any ideas?

My knowledge is very limited, but I remember the instructions warned to let the unit sit upright for 24-48 hours before turning it on if it had set on it's side during transport. (I think oil and/or coolant may need to fully settle). Not sure if that applies in this situation or not. Bt perhaps another clue.
 
My knowledge is very limited, but I remember the instructions warned to let the unit sit upright for 24-48 hours before turning it on if it had set on it's side during transport. (I think oil and/or coolant may need to fully settle). Not sure if that applies in this situation or not. Bt perhaps another clue.
Sat about 36-40 before being wheeled from garage into kitchen (with no tilting). Transport was less than 40min, so I’m included to believe that is not the issue but who knows at this point. Leaving unplugged overnight.
 
Overnight rest did nothing. Hearing two clicks now in succession every few minutes. I read this could mean the relay is bad as suggested above and if you take it off and it rattles it is bad. Does anyone know the HP on the compressor? @TsunamiMike what replacements did KOMOS recommend?
 
Sounds like cheap compressor failure to me. I had a Magic Chef deep freeze do the same thing after running in the same place for 3 years. Just out of warranty of course! :)
 
Compressors do as compressors do. I’ve repaired a handful of refrigerator compressors in my lifetime and in almost all cases no cool means bad start relay and/or overload protector. The parts are very cheap and easy to replace (usually just socketing into the outside of compressor), but you’ll need to replace both at the same time. If you dont want to buy them without knowing for sure, you can pull them off and easily test with a multimeter for continuity… plenty of videos on youtube showing you how to do this.
 
I wasted an hour with a multimeter on mine. In fairness, my symptoms were a bit different. After unplugging mine would start and run for a few seconds, then stop.

I wish there were more repair resources these days. I hate that we have become a disposable society.
 
agreed @Hans O. Lowe I lost my first bevair kegerator because I couldn’t get anyone to work on it. I found my multimeter for first time since moving a few years ago ($1 church yard sale version). Opened her up. See pictures. Mine had a two part relay and overload set. Continuity good on three compressor pins. Relay appears to rattle so I think (hopefully) the issue (and source of noise before it shutdown). This is the white single prong piece. Bad continuity relay to overload connections. Good within overload (black piece). I think I found the correct part here based on it coming up first searching with part numbers (which don’t turn out to be in the listing).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087C25PDL/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_i_S7RBZ3RK1YX7E6XEBHW9
Some poor reviews on part but also ordered the 3 in 1 by pass mentioned above as well as backup.

HP looks be to 1/8 based on these specs.
https://lightcommercialrefrigeration.danfoss.com/pdf/danfoss_B60C5BL_R600a_115_60.pdf

Parts arrive tomorrow. We have a cold snap (below freezing overnight) so I put kegs in garage to keep cold. I was impressed that despite being unplugged internal temp only rose 1 degree overnight.
Hopefully thanks to this forum and Amazon will be pouring tomorrow night! 🤞
 

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So Amazon drive just delivered the parts. A bit concerning the new PTC relay also rattled. I went ahead and installed. I noticed immediately that the compression turned on after a click, but then off. I noticed the PTC relay was sparking when it turns off and very hot. Do you all think I got a bad part or something else up? I thought it was a lose connection, so I crimped everything down tight on the spade connectors, but with same result.
 
I installed the 3 and 1. No sparks, but same patterns of turning on compressor for a few seconds and then clicking off. :(
 
I got a new multimeter with current clamp today (only $15 from Harbor Freight). As suspected when the kegerator starts it is drawing high current 8.2-8.7 A. This is higher than the 7.24 rated listed here but doesn’t seem to crazy. The problem is it is not dropping down to the lower running amp (0.8 A attached tag)
https://lightcommercialrefrigeration.danfoss.com/pdf/danfoss_B60C5BL_R600a_115_60.pdf
So I’ve checked everything on the wiring diagram except the control board. Does anyone think that could be causing the issue or is compressor done? Again, according to the pin resistance things are in spec. They sell a new control board for $20, so that would be a cheap repair, but not sure it has anything to do with dropping the current.

The only other thing I could probably do is by pass the controller. I’m guessing it is under this white plastic cover? (See pic) but it’s hard to remove with this skinny copper wire touching/blocking it. Wanted to get more info before attempting that is I’m not sure I can remove without breaking something and the copper wire is connected to the compressor.
 

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@DrOBeer sorry about the delay, please see the attached pdf file with the repair instructions as well as the part to purchase.
 

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Hey @TsunamiMike thanks for sharing that. I tried that part and also a higher amp rated 3 in 1 (410 model) and had the same result. High amps being pulled compressor not starting. I noticed in the instructions the note about the red/white wires. Mine had the white wire on top (opposite of the instructions). I wonder if that could have damaging anything or if others have the same inverted wiring? I confirmed red should have been on top according to the wiring diagram. I'm not sure which is "hot" vs "neutral". The wiring diagram only says (C) for common for the red wire after going through the circuit board.
 

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Hey, just got a replacement kegerator as the last Komos made a ton of noise. The new one did not make the weird noises the last did, i swapped the tower and everything over and it worked great for a few days and then the compressor started making a high pitched noise and I looked at the troubleshooting manual online and it said to unplug it for 3-5 minutes and plug it back in. Once I did that the compressor has never gone back on.

Anyone have any thoughts on this or had similar issues?


I am having some issues with this. Did you ever get any solution to the issue?
 
Hey, just got a replacement kegerator as the last Komos made a ton of noise. The new one did not make the weird noises the last did, i swapped the tower and everything over and it worked great for a few days and then the compressor started making a high pitched noise and I looked at the troubleshooting manual online and it said to unplug it for 3-5 minutes and plug it back in. Once I did that the compressor has never gone back on.

Anyone have any thoughts on this or had similar issues?
Hey so I know this is an old thread but it's one of the only ones I could find regarding this issue. I've found a solution that maybe able to help others on here. My Komos kegerator was having the same problem where the compressor and/or fan would not turn on. I'd unplug it and when I'd plug it back in I would here a couple clicks and that was it. The LED display would then just show "EE." I took a look though everything on the back of the unit with finding any problems.

Then by chance I decided to take a look at the controls and display on the front of the unit. If you open the door and look directly up on the underneath of the front of the unit you should find 3 screws. Remover those and the plate and you will see the back of the control panel. There is one wire cluster with a harness that plugs into the control panel. In my case this had somehow loosened slightly. After reconnecting this wire fully I haven't had any issues.

Hope this helps someone!
 
Hey so I know this is an old thread but it's one of the only ones I could find regarding this issue. I've found a solution that maybe able to help others on here. My Komos kegerator was having the same problem where the compressor and/or fan would not turn on. I'd unplug it and when I'd plug it back in I would here a couple clicks and that was it. The LED display would then just show "EE." I took a look though everything on the back of the unit with finding any problems.

Then by chance I decided to take a look at the controls and display on the front of the unit. If you open the door and look directly up on the underneath of the front of the unit you should find 3 screws. Remover those and the plate and you will see the back of the control panel. There is one wire cluster with a harness that plugs into the control panel. In my case this had somehow loosened slightly. After reconnecting this wire fully I haven't had any issues.

Hope this helps someone!
Great spot to post your detective work and fix so others can find it!

Glad you were able to get it back up and running, or cooling.
 
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