Kill-A-Watt Brewery Build Compilation

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as an aside:
It might not be a bad idea to mount the main power plug on the wall inside a box with a padlock.

It's been my experience both as a child and with children that kids are by nature very curious little critters and inclined to investigate anything and for no reason at all.
 
as an aside:
It might not be a bad idea to mount the main power plug on the wall inside a box with a padlock.

It's been my experience both as a child and with children that kids are by nature very curious little critters and inclined to investigate anything and for no reason at all.

Bottom line, it only makes sense to do that if I am going to child proof the rest of the rig, which I am not and I have yet to see anyone else do for obvious reasons.

What is the difference between this being plugged into the wall and a lamp? Or a computer, TV, VSmile... etc?
 
Bottom line, it only makes sense to do that if I am going to child proof the rest of the rig, which I am not and I have yet to see anyone else do for obvious reasons.

What is the difference between this being plugged into the wall and a lamp? Or a computer, TV, VSmile... etc?


Easier to padlock the kid. :D

Seriously, if you let that cute little pot scrubber anywhere close to this when in operation half of this board will be up there to kick your axe. :rockin:
 
Easier to padlock the kid. :D

Seriously, if you let that cute little pot scrubber anywhere close to this when in operation half of this board will be up there to kick your axe. :rockin:

Right, I mean... I watch my kids. They and their friends arent even allowed in the garage when I brew due to the hazards. One large one being large unsecured vats of boiling liquid. Takes one kid running around (since that is all they do) to topple something and have 3rd degree burns over their body.

I see a lot of stories about kids getting into stuff that they shouldnt be, and I always wonder where the parents are?

This goes for a lot more than brewing equipment, it goes for every electrical and burn hazard around the home, chemicals on shelves in the garage etc.

Rest assured, my kids are not allowed in the brewing area when I am brewing. There are numerous hazards, AND it is my time to get away from them. :D
 
Does this mean that they can't watch TV in the Living Room, with that beautiful brew rig? :) Can't imagine that going to the garage (you can tell SWMBO I said that too :) )
 
Does this mean that they can't watch TV in the Living Room, with that beautiful brew rig? :) Can't imagine that going to the garage (you can tell SWMBO I said that too :) )

The kids have to watch cartoons in the game room when I am brewing in the family room, yes :D
 
Lets get this thread back on line.

Pol, Very nice build. Maybe one day when my turkey fryer grows up it can be half as good as what you have amased here.

:off:
Just do what you were going to do anyways by keeping an eye on the kids, or better yet someone else is watching the kids when you are brewing. There is nothing better than parental supervision.

Brew Strong
Brew Hard
 
I think if POL is able to fly the public above our head, he certainly can brew a batch of beer while having children under his roof. Getting closer to the break in. Looking forward to it.
 
He Pol – I’ve skimmed this thread and didn’t see an answer to my question (sorry if I missed it :eek:) but are the SS coils sitting on the elements in your BK?

I remember your question :) I think I answered it, but I answer the same questions every day, so no problem.

NO the coil is NOT sitting on the elements. There is about 1/2" between them. The coil is mounted with the TriClamps so that it is suspended above the elements.
 
I think if POL is able to fly the public above our head, he certainly can brew a batch of beer while having children under his roof. Getting closer to the break in. Looking forward to it.

DHB, dont you know, I died while operating my last build... I did. It was written somewhere here that I would. This is my spirit messing with electromagnetic fields! Wooooooo!

The plug to my rig takes (2) adults to unplug it, not worried about my kiddos.

Back to the thread, I am starting my water tests today... looking forward to it! If I survive, I will post some results here :D

Yeah, I suppose if I am responsible enough to look after 100 kids in the back of the plane, I can be responsible for (2). Some opinionated gentleman in Miami got kicked off the plane before we departed today, he had to go to time out with TSA. ;)
 
Lets get this thread back on line.

Pol, Very nice build. Maybe one day when my turkey fryer grows up it can be half as good as what you have amased here.

:off:
Just do what you were going to do anyways by keeping an eye on the kids, or better yet someone else is watching the kids when you are brewing. There is nothing better than parental supervision.

Brew Strong
Brew Hard

The beautiful lady in my gallery watches my kids while I brew. I have a wife, that is what she is here for :D
 
On another note... I'M WIRELESS!!!
Thanks to your description I got a wireless Print Server over the weekend and my BCS is now wireless. I may need to do some more tuning with the IP addresses, but late last night I was connected. Very sweet... Thanks for the questions and feedback you posted.

Ed

Awesome, yeah I think it is a good idea to get the BCS on a static IP, outside the DHCP range of your router. I am glad you are wireless! There is another dude here going wireless that just purchased the same WGPS606 that I have and I am going to be his tech support to get his BCS wireless! GO HBT!
 
I remember your question :) I think I answered it, but I answer the same questions every day, so no problem.

NO the coil is NOT sitting on the elements. There is about 1/2" between them. The coil is mounted with the TriClamps so that it is suspended above the elements.

Thanks for the response Pol. I think the question I asked you was about the size of those beautiful Blichmanns, and I subsequently retracted it because I found my answer somewhere else. Although, it’s entirely possible that I did ask you about the coils also and just forgot in my old age (32).

I have another question (on topic but a bit off topic too): would 5 gallon batches be possible in these kettles? Would there be any problems with using 15 gallon kettles for a MLT? I ask from my own angle: I am thinking of doing a HLT/MLT/BK of 15/15/15 or 15/15/20, but am nervous that those are too big for 5 gallon batches (which I will still do a lot of). I should note that I love the idea of a HERMS or RIMS system (and have spent a lot of time in a couple of your threads researching these ideas).

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the response Pol. I think the question I asked you was about the size of those beautiful Blichmanns, and I subsequently retracted it because I found my answer somewhere else. Although, it’s entirely possible that I did ask you about the coils also and just forgot in my old age (32).

I have another question (on topic but a bit off topic too): would 5 gallon batches be possible in these kettles? Would there be any problems with using 15 gallon kettles for a MLT? I ask from my own angle: I am thinking of doing a HLT/MLT/BK of 15/15/15 or 15/15/20, but am nervous that those are too big for 5 gallon batches (which I will still do a lot of). I should note that I love the idea of a HERMS or RIMS system (and have spent a lot of time in a couple of your threads researching these ideas).

Thanks!

Yes, that was a design consideration. This is why 20 gallon kettles were not used :D
 
Awesome, yeah I think it is a good idea to get the BCS on a static IP, outside the DHCP range of your router. I am glad you are wireless! There is another dude here going wireless that just purchased the same WGPS606 that I have and I am going to be his tech support to get his BCS wireless! GO HBT!

I was unable to get a static ip address outside the DHCP range to work on my Netgear router. I was however able to reserve an ip address that falls in the range for the BCS and set that static address in the BCS. I'm thinking this may just be a difference in our routers. I'm still traveling and won't have much chance to look at it for a couple weeks.
 
I was unable to get a static ip address outside the DHCP range to work on my Netgear router. I was however able to reserve an ip address that falls in the range for the BCS and set that static address in the BCS. I'm thinking this may just be a difference in our routers. I'm still traveling and won't have much chance to look at it for a couple weeks.

That will work well and is actually a better (more proper) solution. Most consumer routers do not have DHCP Reservation functionality. However, as long as your static address is in the same netmask as your router and computer it should work, unless your DHCP Range is the entire netmask.

For example if your router is 192.168.0.1, then the range of see-able IP's in that netmask are 192.168.0.1 - 192.168.0.254. As long as the BCS has one of those as an IP, whether through DHCP Reservations or just plugging in a Static IP you should be able to see it.


As an aside, if anyone has trouble with the network stuff PM me. I'm a Network Admin, so I do this stuff all day long.
 
Take it easy with the "stupid" comments. It's ok to point out risks, hazards, and possible code/law infractions, but please try to be a bit polite about it.

To summarize deleted posts without the unnecessary rude commentary:

Male-to-male power cords are not a good idea. It's been argued to death, and the consensus is always the same: don't use them.

Additionally, it is illegal to connect a generator to your breaker panel without an approved transfer switch. Without the transfer switch, linemen working during a power outage could be electrocuted as a result of backfeeding the lines. You could be prosecuted should such an unfortunate accident occur.

Enough with the bickering about it. Move on.
 
If you've had a post deleted it is for a valid reason.
There are too many for a PM to explain each one.

There is no need for any more "I'm for or against posts."
That is OT chatter and will be deleted.
 
Just a classic case of disagreement on the Internets IMHO, either way this thread is a valuable resource and contains lots of great info for folks to use. Oh, and lots of SS Bling!
 
Regardless of what happened, I'm glad to see this thread back. There is too much great information on this thread to be lost forever.

I would hope that Pol can forgive those who drove him to leave, IMO he was a great inspiration, especially to electric brewing, and his knowledge and experience will certainly be missed.

Beyond that, Pol's system is one of the sexiest I have seen, hands down!
 
I have no special knowledge of why POL left. I assume he did because he went on and on about how he probably would.

We don't do drama here.

I'll reopen this thread once the OT stuff is deleted. I don't have time now.
 
I have question about Pol's RIMS design. First off using two heating elements in line as he does in the U design aren't you heating the wort to (152) and then reheating it again to 152 seams ineffeciant would it not make more sense to split the wort into two different chambers with their own heating element and the merge the two back to one flow with the temp probe at that point controlling both heaters? Second I want to be able to take my equip to group brews, 220 not always available, I don't want to need 220. Would using two 120v 1500w heating elements work for RIMS only? Would I need two seperate supply lines, one for each?
 
I have question about Pol's RIMS design. First off using two heating elements in line as he does in the U design aren't you heating the wort to (152) and then reheating it again to 152 seams ineffeciant would it not make more sense to split the wort into two different chambers with their own heating element and the merge the two back to one flow with the temp probe at that point controlling both heaters? Second I want to be able to take my equip to group brews, 220 not always available, I don't want to need 220. Would using two 120v 1500w heating elements work for RIMS only? Would I need two seperate supply lines, one for each?

The "reheating" of the wort is compensating for heat loss in the tun and also loss from recirculation, and a single 110v element is plenty for maintaining and even ramping temps, although not as fast. The dual element design was to be able to ramp temps fast and add flexibility to his system.
If you want to utilize 2 110v elements simultaneously in your system, you would need separate circuits for each.
 
The two elements are needed when bringing water into the system. They act as a sort of inline water heater. Under recirculation, I am fairly sure that he only uses one of the elements.

I brew on a system with two 1500W elements and they work very well. If you set them up correctly, they can also be run off of two 120V circuits.
 
Would there be any problem if I used a 220 line off the dry circuit and then split one leg to each element and have a common nuetral?
 
I assume you are talking about your dryer circuit. If you have two elements that are identical, and use one hot and a neutral to each, then this will work. Theoretically, you would not even need the neutral if you wanted them to act like a voltage divider to get 120V each.

I would only do it, though, if you have a 4 wire circuit and GFCI on the circuit. Otherwise, you can run into some, well, very bad things.
 
I am assuming it is because that is where there was room. As long as you are below the fluid level you should be fine.

This may be a really dumb question... but why below? If this is where it is coming in the BK I would think the top would be best. I've never done all grain before and am trying to get a better understanding to build a rig. Thanks.
 
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