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Kill-A-Watt Brewery Build Compilation

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after putting my keggle system together and agonizing over details that would save a few dollars, I couldn't imagine punching holes in a 900$ blichman system. Must be nerve racking. You must have nerves of steel.
 
It helps to have sold his previous brew rig. A dual element RIMS? cool idea, this must be why you wanted high flow rates. Very Very shiny.....and no fire to soot it up.
-Ben
 
Punching 5 holes in a new Blichman was nerve racking... I admit.

Selling my previous system helps fund this build, also a blessed Xmas, also a little holiday bonus from the CEO and some other streams... it will be fully funded shortly.

I am moving much faster than I had thought I would really... The hardest part was building out the BK... that was hard.

Now I have my kettles, RIMS and pumps ready to intall on the stand, then I just have to wire up 10 SSRs to my BCS and such and it is done and ready to test.

I keep saying that the hard part is over... but I dont know. I do know that I have finished off (3) rolls of thread tape so far!
 
You can't make beer on that. It won't work. :D

Man, that thing is sweet, and I am green with envy. I laid awake last night thinking about what gear I can sell to get a single blichmann. Those things are the balls.
 
4 elements, each needs (2) so that is 8
2 pumps, each needs (1) so that is 2

Total 10

Why the change of heart on the elements? Previously it was 1 SSR per element.
Because you're selling it? Would you still go with one if it was your personal rig?
 
Why the change of heart on the elements? Previously it was 1 SSR per element.
Because you're selling it? Would you still go with one if it was your personal rig?

No, because I dont plan to have any physical switches, like on my old rig. Those switches are what made it possible to control current on BOTH legs to the element. Regardless of who owns it, both legs need to be cut when it is OFF. IT was that way on my old system, it will be this way on this one.
 
You can't make beer on that. It won't work. :D

Man, that thing is sweet, and I am green with envy. I laid awake last night thinking about what gear I can sell to get a single blichmann. Those things are the balls.

I know, it wont work at all... it will be a shiney sculpture though. Nothing I make ever works!

They are 'spensive, but they really are nice, since they are designed to do what we are doing. They arent modified chili pots :D
 
I know, it wont work at all... it will be a shiney sculpture though. Nothing I make ever works!

They are 'spensive, but they really are nice, since they are designed to do what we are doing. They arent modofoed chili pots :D

yeah, the only thing that sucks about them is waiting on it to be shipped
 
which is where? tuesday will be 2 weeks for me :(
edit: I just wish I had an idea of when it will be here so I can get my starter going

Indiana...

I got mine from BMW, I talked to Ed, sounds like he can get an idea of a ship date from Blichman
 
Nice idea on getting a single build thread. I was loosing track of all the others... I kinda guess you were doing a brutus 20-alike. You gonna use solenoids or something for liquid control? I suppose, however, you only have one liquid path. Just working it out in my head:)
 
Indiana...

I got mine from BMW, I talked to Ed, sounds like he can get an idea of a ship date from Blichman

Funny thing is, they're made in West Lafayette. I went to Purdue and was totally oblivious to this! :D
 
Killer build.

I am putting together stuff to build a similar rig using 2 kegs and a dual element RIMS, one for recirculated mashing, and then both for fly sparging. I think mine will only use one pump too. I even kicked around the idea of a dual element keggle like what you'd done.

I love the built in chiller idea. I was planning on doing a CFC, but after seeing yours, might just modify my plans.
 
Killer build.

I am putting together stuff to build a similar rig using 2 kegs and a dual element RIMS, one for recirculated mashing, and then both for fly sparging. I think mine will only use one pump too. I even kicked around the idea of a dual element keggle like what you'd done.

I love the built in chiller idea. I was planning on doing a CFC, but after seeing yours, might just modify my plans.

The dual element kettle and RIMS is unnecessary, but the additional cost is minimal... at least I dont have to hear how "weak" my system is again :D

The integral chiller is nice, costly, but nice
 
All of the stuff for the stand should be here in a week or so... then I can get all of the major components mounted. Once that is completed (1-2 weeks), then I can get the BCS and SSRs installed and fire it up!
 
The dual element kettle and RIMS is unnecessary, but the additional cost is minimal... at least I dont have to hear how "weak" my system is again :D

The integral chiller is nice, costly, but nice

I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

Also, for your dual elements, I'm assuming you will be running on 1 PID and 1 thermocouple, but 2 SSRs, one for each element? This would be a more cost effective way for me as well because I was going to run one PID for RIMS and one PID for sparging, each with their own thermocouple.

Ya, your stainless tubing is nice, but too rich for my blood. If I incorporate your idea, it will be with copper tubing instead.
 
I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

Also, for your dual elements, I'm assuming you will be running on 1 PID and 1 thermocouple, but 2 SSRs, one for each element? This would be a more cost effective way for me as well because I was going to run one PID for RIMS and one PID for sparging, each with their own thermocouple.

Ya, your stainless tubing is nice, but too rich for my blood. If I incorporate your idea, it will be with copper tubing instead.

I am sure you know this, but it bears pointing out, 7000W would run you just over 29A, leaving you no room to run a single pump, unless of course you are running them on another circuit, which you may.

The on demand water heater idea should work, mathematically, with 7000W in the heater.

EDIT
This is BCS controlled... EACH element will have (2) SSRs and have its OWN PID/Control output. SO, the RIMS will have (4) SSRs and (2) controls to run it, the Kettle will have (4) SSRs and (2) PID/control outputs as well... The pumps will each have a single SSR and a single control output, each

This will allow me and the BCS to operate the kettle and the RIMS on a single elelement when it is programmed to do so, and during certain processes run both elements with full PID control or manual, or ON/OFF control.

The kettle will have the option of temp. controlled PID, but that will not be used for the boil, only duty cycle for that.

The integrated coil was pricey, $232 or so, but the 50' copper chiller was $15 MORE than the 50' SS chiller at Midwest... SS and copper are very close in price when it comes to tubing. The fittings were mucho pricey
 
I am sure you know this, but it bears pointing out, 7000W would run you just over 29A, leaving you no room to run a single pump, unless of course you are running them on another circuit, which you may.

Give or take 10% on the circuit breaker. I had a customer running a dryer on a 20 amp circuit for years. The dryer was rated at 30 but will draw about 21 or so under full load. Well, after some years the circuit breaker starts tripping and I get the call. They didn't want to hear it was a feed problem because it had worked fine for so many years....... (I pointed to the tag on the dryer that said 30 amps and the breaker that said 20 and that seemed to help......)

That said, notice the dryer draws about 2/3's the rated current.
 
I was going to run a 120v LWD element for RIMS function then kick on a 240v 4500 HWD element for fly sparging. I know with the talk about HWD not actually scorching, maybe I can run 2 HWD elements at around 3500 each so I can still run off my 30A outlet and have the power to fly sparge my 38* tap water. I'd rather over engineer the first time, then have to re-engineer a second time.

On 30 Amps I would say one 1500W and a 4500W will get you where you need to be. with some extra amps to to spare.
 
Ya, I was planning on using a 110v pump on a separate outlet, but I have considered upgrading my 240v outlet to 40A (if the wire is big enough) and running a 240v pump instead.

It might work as is, or not. I suppose those 3500w elements have a tolerance as well. My luck would be that I have a -10% outlet and 2 +10% elements.

I missed the BCS controller detail. I'll surely be keeping an eye on this build.

Sorry for the hijack, back to the bling!
 
Final orders placed today...

Everything will be in house soon to complete the build.
 
Final orders placed today...

Everything will be in house soon to complete the build.

Wow... you are on fire!

What do you have planned for insulating your vessels?
I'm guessing it will have to be removable so you can use all that bling as a mirror to shave with in the mornings.

Ed
 

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