Kill-A-Watt Brewery Build Compilation

[olllllo]

I have no special knowledge of why POL left. I assume he did because he went on and on about how he probably would.

We don't do drama here.

I'll reopen this thread once the OT stuff is deleted. I don't have time now.

 

[hjherbenson]

I have question about Pol's RIMS design. First off using two heating elements in line as he does in the U design aren't you heating the wort to (152) and then reheating it again to 152 seams ineffeciant would it not make more sense to split the wort into two different chambers with their own heating element and the merge the two back to one flow with the temp probe at that point controlling both heaters? Second I want to be able to take my equip to group brews, 220 not always available, I don't want to need 220. Would using two 120v 1500w heating elements work for RIMS only? Would I need two seperate supply lines, one for each?

 

[bendavanza]

I have question about Pol's RIMS design. First off using two heating elements in line as he does in the U design aren't you heating the wort to (152) and then reheating it again to 152 seams ineffeciant would it not make more sense to split the wort into two different chambers with their own heating element and the merge the two back to one flow with the temp probe at that point controlling both heaters? Second I want to be able to take my equip to group brews, 220 not always available, I don't want to need 220. Would using two 120v 1500w heating elements work for RIMS only? Would I need two seperate supply lines, one for each?

The "reheating" of the wort is compensating for heat loss in the tun and also loss from recirculation, and a single 110v element is plenty for maintaining and even ramping temps, although not as fast. The dual element design was to be able to ramp temps fast and add flexibility to his system.
If you want to utilize 2 110v elements simultaneously in your system, you would need separate circuits for each.

 

[jfkriege]

The two elements are needed when bringing water into the system. They act as a sort of inline water heater. Under recirculation, I am fairly sure that he only uses one of the elements.

I brew on a system with two 1500W elements and they work very well. If you set them up correctly, they can also be run off of two 120V circuits.

 

[hjherbenson]

Would there be any problem if I used a 220 line off the dry circuit and then split one leg to each element and have a common nuetral?

 

[jfkriege]

I assume you are talking about your dryer circuit. If you have two elements that are identical, and use one hot and a neutral to each, then this will work. Theoretically, you would not even need the neutral if you wanted them to act like a voltage divider to get 120V each.

I would only do it, though, if you have a 4 wire circuit and GFCI on the circuit. Otherwise, you can run into some, well, very bad things.

 

[hjherbenson]

Thanks, I'll make sure to get it done right.

 

[ldo2626]

Can anyone tell me why the recirculation port is half way up on the BK? Thanks in advance.

 

[jfkriege]

I am assuming it is because that is where there was room. As long as you are below the fluid level you should be fine.

 

[ldo2626]

I am assuming it is because that is where there was room. As long as you are below the fluid level you should be fine.

This may be a really dumb question... but why below? If this is where it is coming in the BK I would think the top would be best. I've never done all grain before and am trying to get a better understanding to build a rig. Thanks.

 

[pickles]

The goal is to get a nice whirlpool going and to stir the wort to aid cooling. You don't want to splash the wort back into the BK. It will aerate the wort and disturb the smooth circular flow. It needs to be below the surface of the liquid.

 

[ldo2626]

Thanks jfkriege and pickles. I love this setup and am just trying to understand it better. How would the Blichmann AutoSparge work here since there is no true "sparge"? Does it just cutoff the flow coming from the pump or is something more elaborate happening? It seems like that wouldn't be good for the pump...

 

[jfkriege]

The autosparge is only for volume control to make sure you dont overfill one tank or drop the fluid level below an element and burn it out. the rig in the second post of the link in my signature has another way to tackle this, gravity feed from a valve above the elements. You can never burn the elements out this way.

Joshua

 

[ldo2626]

The autosparge is only for volume control to make sure you dont overfill one tank or drop the fluid level below an element and burn it out. the rig in the second post of the link in my signature has another way to tackle this, gravity feed from a valve above the elements. You can never burn the elements out this way.

Joshua

I really like the gravity feed idea. Easy to see how you won't burn out the elements. So the autosparge literally cuts off the flow coming from the pump if the level gets too high, but does nothing if it gets low? Is cutting off the flow bad for the pump?

 

[jfkriege]

I like the gravity system as well. It is simple.

If you are using a magnetically coupled pump like a March 809 or the LG 3-MD-HC then the autosparge doesn't do anything negative to the pumps. The only way it would get low when the autosparge is in there is if you cut off the pump or clogged a line. you are correct in how it works.

Joshua

 

[johnfrum]

Hello,

I work for BYO and WineMaker Magazines. This would make a great article for our Drool section. If you are interested let me know by dropping me a line @

[email protected]

Cheers!

 

[Hermit]

Hello,

I work for BYO and WineMaker Magazines. This would make a great article for our Drool section. If you are interested let me know by dropping me a line @

[email protected]

Cheers!

I don't believe the author frequents this site anymore for reasons of his own....

 

[wyzazz]

I don't believe the author frequents this site anymore for reasons of his own....

That would be correct. Dunno if there is any contact info listed in his profile on here or not.

 

[patrck17]

I bet somebody around here knows how to get in touch with him.

 

[wyzazz]

Maybe Yooper? She bought his first all electric HERMS.

 

[jfkriege]

I emailed him.

 

[jkarp]

Hello,

I work for BYO and WineMaker Magazines. This would make a great article for our Drool section. If you are interested let me know by dropping me a line @

[email protected]

Cheers!

Must be a new intern @ BYO or he'd know Rob was already published in "Drool" in the 2009 March-Apil issue.

 

[The Pol]

Got the email, sorry, not interested.

 

[Anthony_Lopez]

Just read through some of this... Can't believe Pol left...

 

[bellinmi88]

On page one of this thread The Pol refers to a "Parts List" on page 61, does anyone know where that is posted as I do not see it on page 61.

The Pol, could you share (again probably, I know...)where you purchased the 1/4" Nylon material?

 

[The Pol]

This seems overly complex... Isn't brewing about the art?

 

[wyzazz]

This seems overly complex... Isn't brewing about the art?

It's about art, science, engineering and tinkering. Dare I say... ...welcome back?!

 

[BadWolfBrewing]

Pol is back? If so, that is awesome. This is still the prettiest home brewery I've ever seen.

 

[The Pol]

Thank you.

 

[jakeelee]

Hi!
Im a total newbie in this but am gonna build something like the Kill A watt.
Can anyone tell me how all is connected at the different brewing stages?
Some of it i know, but some i dont understand. Like sparging for example.
With this system you dont sparge? but there is a autosparge valve?
Also the Connection in between the cooling coil, what and when connects there?

Any ideas and tips is very very welcome.

Im sorry for being a newbie but i guess we all have been at the beginning.