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keggle rust problem

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Stopped at redners, got bkf in paste form(nitric acid) and cameo (sulfamic acid). Going to try to remove the rsut from my welds. Btw, if you only have bkf in powder, water and conr starch will make a paste.
 
Flapper Wheel on a 4" grinder to clean up the cut and remove enough material to stop it from rusting.

If the slag is coming off with a simple scuff pad you're a lot luckier than me. I had to grind it off. And as mentioned before using a wire wheel and brush only made matters worse. But with time, the right tools and not giving up on them I now have 3 Keggles that work perfectly and do not rust.

I promise you can do this at home... I did!

Listen to mmurray's advise.

A flapper disk or wheel can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes to remove the slag(most likely not rust) from the keg.
The reason I don't believe it's rusted is because the smoke created from the plasma torch resembles rust in color.
Do not ever use anything other than new abrasives when grinding or polishing on stainless and you will not have any problems with rusting or corrosion.
Passivation is only necessary when stainless has been contaminated.
Clean abrasives will not contaminate stainless.

Future advise...

Fill the keg to a few inches from the top with water before cutting the top out of a keg.
The water will catch the slag and prevent it from sticking to the keg interior.

RDWGAGAG

Relax Don't Worry Grab a Grinder and Grind!
 
Listen to mmurray's advise.

A flapper disk or wheel can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes to remove the slag(most likely not rust) from the keg.
The reason I don't believe it's rusted is because the smoke created from the plasma torch resembles rust in color.
Do not ever use anything other than new abrasives when grinding or polishing on stainless and you will not have any problems with rusting or corrosion.
Passivation is only necessary when stainless has been contaminated.
Clean abrasives will not contaminate stainless.

Future advise...

Fill the keg to a few inches from the top with water before cutting the top out of a keg.
The water will catch the slag and prevent it from sticking to the keg interior.

RDWGAGAG

Relax Don't Worry Grab a Grinder and Grind!

ya im going out today after work (i know its saturday and i could be brewing) and im going to get the scotch brite pads and im gonna grab some of that BKF and if that doesnt work ill move onto to flapper.
 
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Sorry... not on computer all weekend! Sick kid.

Above is a pic of a flapper wheel. As you can see this is a very coarse grit and could be used to clean up the lip of the keggle's from the plasma cutter and remove sharp edges.

For the inside, start with much less aggressive equipment. I eventually had to go to that on the inside and work my way to finer and finer grits, but don't go there if you don't have too!
 
nice thanks! sorry to hear about kid. pic really helps i was picturing something totally different. should def get the job done for cleaning up the cut. ya im gonna try the bkf and scotch brite before i go to the grinder
 
How about an orbital sander with 220? I have some slag on my sidewalls too...

i guess you could use that but from what people are saying just use some BKF and a scotch brite pad and the stuff should come off. only go with the sander if you have to.
 
The reason I don't believe it's rusted is because the smoke created from the plasma torch resembles rust in color.
Do not ever use anything other than new abrasives when grinding or polishing on stainless and you will not have any problems with rusting or corrosion.
Passivation is only necessary when stainless has been contaminated.
Clean abrasives will not contaminate stainless.

I had some kegs cut by a buddy of mine with a plasma cutter a couple weeks ago. I didn't put water in em, and had cleaned them out and removed the spears prior to his cutting. When I picked them up, the inside looks like the cloud of smoke from the gas coated much of the interior of the keg. I am just getting around to them, so they've had a couple weeks to let it sit on there...

With tiny slag particles attached to the side. Last night I used some bar keepers friend and a scotchpad, to minor success. THe inside is still discolored. The couplings haven't been welded, but I drilled the holes, and I got the keg to hot, I can see that color distortion in it now. I plan to scrub some more with Barkeepers Friend, and grind a bit if I need to, hopefully I can get it back to brewing shape. I should have taken a picture- I'll do that, I'd appreciate an opinion.....
 
I had some kegs cut by a buddy of mine with a plasma cutter a couple weeks ago. I didn't put water in em, and had cleaned them out and removed the spears prior to http://www.cadreon.com/his cutting. When I picked them up, the inside looks like the cloud of smoke from the gas coated much of the interior of the keg. I am just getting around to them, so they've had a couple weeks to let it sit on there...

With tiny slag particles attached to the side. Last night I used some bar keepers friend and a scotchpad, to minor success. THe inside is still discolored. The couplings haven't been welded, but I drilled the holes, and I got the keg to hot, I can see that color distortion in it now. I plan to scrub some more with Barkeepers Friend, and grind a bit if I need to, hopefully I can get it back to brewing shape. I should have taken a picture- I'll do that, I'd appreciate an opinion.....

heres what i got goin on. sounds like you got the same problem.

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Yup yup, very similar, yours are a bit worse than mine, but same issue. If ya learn any tricks, let me know! Hope they are salvageable!

mine look worse!!!! holy crap im gonna scrub a little now while im at work. (dont tell my boss) ill put the new pic up in a little bit and let u know how it came out. and ill let u know what i did. got a bunch of equipment at y disposal here at work so i mite try a few different things.
 
Yup yup, very similar, yours are a bit worse than mine, but same issue. If ya learn any tricks, let me know! Hope they are salvageable!

very salvageable!!! BKF and scotch pads worked great. not sure if you can see in pic but still got somelittle bits of slag stuck mostly at the bottom. hopefully just needs a little sandpaper. any ideas on what brand? type? grit? i should be using? i dont wana do any more damage. ( i hope my boss doesnt ask why there is soapy water all over the bay ):D

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I'd guess that most of that will come of easily with a hot soak with oxyclean. Then scrub with a scotchbrite while draining. The brown or red stuff is mostly smoke. The slag is another thing, it may take some work. But I'd get the easy part first, may knock loose some of the slag.

Next time fill the keg with water before cutting.
 
I'd guess that most of that will come of easily with a hot soak with oxyclean. Then scrub with a scotchbrite while draining. The brown or red stuff is mostly smoke. The slag is another thing, it may take some work. But I'd get the easy part first, may knock loose some of the slag.

Next time fill the keg with water before cutting.

ya i got all the rust off with bar keepers friends and scotch brite looks real good and now just a few pieces of slag remain. is it safe to use sandpaper on inside? if so what kind? grit? brand?
 
The larger pieces of slag can usually be scraped of with a chisel.
Just use it like a scraper.
An actual paint scraper or the like doesn't have enough mass to knock the BB's of slag loose.
 
i have these that attach to my pneumatic die grinder. would this be something that i could use on inside? will i need something more coarse? i have green ones that are basically sandpaper not sure what grit. 3M makes them called Roloc discs.

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Those disks work great, and there not too aggressive, which a good thing.

so that would be safe for inside? also i have these chisels and scraper not sure if they would be too crazy. and i thought i wasnt supposed to use metal on metal or it will rust?

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I have learned that if /when you do need to grind on stainless to use a Type27 cutoff/grinding wheel. These will not embed the stainles with any ferrous metals so no rust. As long as you dont get it too hot while grinding you dont have to worry about messing up the alloy. Just look at the grinding wheels when you buy them and if they say T27 your good to go.
 
I cleaned up a sloppy job on a keggle I did while in haste in college with a plasma cutter at work. While that was sloppy too I cleaned it up with a 4" grinding wheel and finished it off with a aluminum braided wire wheel and then a sand or scotch grinding pad. No slag anymore and no rust issues due to cutting, it looks scored/sanded but thats just details.
 
i have these that attach to my pneumatic die grinder. would this be something that i could use on inside? will i need something more coarse? i have green ones that are basically sandpaper not sure what grit. 3M makes them called Roloc discs.

2011-04-20_12-53-28_683.jpg

This is what you need for the little bit of slag on the bottom! Don't use the chisels you posted as you don't want to leave any material behind. Those disks on a pneumatic die grinder will do the trick. That's what I used from Coarse to extra fine after I used the flapper wheel... but mine was worse than those pictured!

Becuase, mine were cut and then sat in a machine shop for 6 months... and used as tables for cutting other material and that slag fell in as well! It was hell!!!
 
This is what you need for the little bit of slag on the bottom! Don't use the chisels you posted as you don't want to leave any material behind. Those disks on a pneumatic die grinder will do the trick. That's what I used from Coarse to extra fine after I used the flapper wheel... but mine was worse than those pictured!

Becuase, mine were cut and then sat in a machine shop for 6 months... and used as tables for cutting other material and that slag fell in as well! It was hell!!!

well i pretty much got it all but these tiny little bits feels like one grain of sand here and there on the bottom. went over them a bunch of times with those pads and scrubbed with scotch brite and then used the pads again etc. and the little bastards are still kinda there. can i use these pads? or are they too intense?

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and oh yeah there were some big pieces that i did use a chisel on. not with a hammer just holding it with my hand and gently tapped the edge. actually came off pretty easy. i cleaned chisel before use. you think ill be ok?
 
well i pretty much got it all but these tiny little bits feels like one grain of sand here and there on the bottom. went over them a bunch of times with those pads and scrubbed with scotch brite and then used the pads again etc. and the little bastards are still kinda there. can i use these pads? or are they too intense?

2011-04-21_08-30-13_729.jpg


and oh yeah there were some big pieces that i did use a chisel on. not with a hammer just holding it with my hand and gently tapped the edge. actually came off pretty easy. i cleaned chisel before use. you think ill be ok?

As for the chisel. as long as you didn't gouge the SS you should be fine. SS is just soft and other metals can embed easily.

Those sanding discs are fine... I'd just make sure and use the finest grit you can find (probably 120) and use a new one. Also make sure and use light pressure and go a little at a time because they will take some metal away. Then go back over it with the scuffing disks to smooth everything back out.
 
As for the chisel. as long as you didn't gouge the SS you should be fine. SS is just soft and other metals can embed easily.

Those sanding discs are fine... I'd just make sure and use the finest grit you can find (probably 120) and use a new one. Also make sure and use light pressure and go a little at a time because they will take some metal away. Then go back over it with the scuffing disks to smooth everything back out.

thats the only type of disc i have on hand now plus the scuffing discs. You think the green one looks too coarse? not sure what grit it is. i mean if this slag isnt coming off with scuffing pads and scotch pads do i really need to worry about it affecting my brew? i mean obviously ill do w.e. i have to but i dont want to be killing myself for no reason.
 
I think the green is 80 grit. I say give it a try on the outside of the keg (maybe on the bottom or something) or on the scrap top that was cut off if you have it... if it looks too aggressive then don't use it, if not then go for it.
 
I have some decommissioned kegs "on order" from a local brewery. Given what you guys have experienced with plasma cutting and the cleanup, would you still go with a plasma cutter, or go for an angle grinder on a jig?
 
I have some decommissioned kegs "on order" from a local brewery. Given what you guys have experienced with plasma cutting and the cleanup, would you still go with a plasma cutter, or go for an angle grinder on a jig?

i would love to go back in time and erase any knowledge of plasma cutting out of my memory. i dont even think you need a jig just go lightly around it in a circle slowly and go over it a few time and you will get a nice clean cut with no friggin SLAG !!!! if i had water at the bottom when it was cut it probably wouldnt have been as bad but it was still alll over the side of my keg too. i would not recommend plasma cutting. but i guess if you do everything right it might be ok but ill never know. unless i blow these 2 up because im sick of cleaning up my mistakes.
 
well i pretty much got it all but these tiny little bits feels like one grain of sand here and there on the bottom. went over them a bunch of times with those pads and scrubbed with scotch brite and then used the pads again etc. and the little bastards are still kinda there. can i use these pads? or are they too intense?

2011-04-21_08-30-13_729.jpg


and oh yeah there were some big pieces that i did use a chisel on. not with a hammer just holding it with my hand and gently tapped the edge. actually came off pretty easy. i cleaned chisel before use. you think ill be ok?

Yeah, you'll be fine as long as you don't go nuts and leave gouges in the keg.

Even if you were to see signs of rust it does not mean that you've ruined your keg.

Those Roloc disks will clean up rust.

If you were to see rusting on stainless, sanding it off as you spot it, will eventually get rid of it. Just always use clean abrasives.

It kills me how a lot of people freak out about rust on stainless like it's some kind of terminal disease.
 
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