Pivovar_Koucky
Well-Known Member
that is a prevention for galvanic corrosion, not so much rusting which is just oxidation of iron. QUOTE]
Is there another type of corrosion I am forgetting?
that is a prevention for galvanic corrosion, not so much rusting which is just oxidation of iron. QUOTE]
Is there another type of corrosion I am forgetting?
Flapper Wheel on a 4" grinder to clean up the cut and remove enough material to stop it from rusting.
If the slag is coming off with a simple scuff pad you're a lot luckier than me. I had to grind it off. And as mentioned before using a wire wheel and brush only made matters worse. But with time, the right tools and not giving up on them I now have 3 Keggles that work perfectly and do not rust.
I promise you can do this at home... I did!
Is there any problem with a little rust? I have some around my welds.
Listen to mmurray's advise.
A flapper disk or wheel can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes to remove the slag(most likely not rust) from the keg.
The reason I don't believe it's rusted is because the smoke created from the plasma torch resembles rust in color.
Do not ever use anything other than new abrasives when grinding or polishing on stainless and you will not have any problems with rusting or corrosion.
Passivation is only necessary when stainless has been contaminated.
Clean abrasives will not contaminate stainless.
Future advise...
Fill the keg to a few inches from the top with water before cutting the top out of a keg.
The water will catch the slag and prevent it from sticking to the keg interior.
RDWGAGAG
Relax Don't Worry Grab a Grinder and Grind!
How about an orbital sander with 220? I have some slag on my sidewalls too...
The reason I don't believe it's rusted is because the smoke created from the plasma torch resembles rust in color.
Do not ever use anything other than new abrasives when grinding or polishing on stainless and you will not have any problems with rusting or corrosion.
Passivation is only necessary when stainless has been contaminated.
Clean abrasives will not contaminate stainless.
I had some kegs cut by a buddy of mine with a plasma cutter a couple weeks ago. I didn't put water in em, and had cleaned them out and removed the spears prior to http://www.cadreon.com/his cutting. When I picked them up, the inside looks like the cloud of smoke from the gas coated much of the interior of the keg. I am just getting around to them, so they've had a couple weeks to let it sit on there...
With tiny slag particles attached to the side. Last night I used some bar keepers friend and a scotchpad, to minor success. THe inside is still discolored. The couplings haven't been welded, but I drilled the holes, and I got the keg to hot, I can see that color distortion in it now. I plan to scrub some more with Barkeepers Friend, and grind a bit if I need to, hopefully I can get it back to brewing shape. I should have taken a picture- I'll do that, I'd appreciate an opinion.....
Yup yup, very similar, yours are a bit worse than mine, but same issue. If ya learn any tricks, let me know! Hope they are salvageable!
Yup yup, very similar, yours are a bit worse than mine, but same issue. If ya learn any tricks, let me know! Hope they are salvageable!
I'd guess that most of that will come of easily with a hot soak with oxyclean. Then scrub with a scotchbrite while draining. The brown or red stuff is mostly smoke. The slag is another thing, it may take some work. But I'd get the easy part first, may knock loose some of the slag.
Next time fill the keg with water before cutting.
Those disks work great, and there not too aggressive, which a good thing.
i have these that attach to my pneumatic die grinder. would this be something that i could use on inside? will i need something more coarse? i have green ones that are basically sandpaper not sure what grit. 3M makes them called Roloc discs.
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This is what you need for the little bit of slag on the bottom! Don't use the chisels you posted as you don't want to leave any material behind. Those disks on a pneumatic die grinder will do the trick. That's what I used from Coarse to extra fine after I used the flapper wheel... but mine was worse than those pictured!
Becuase, mine were cut and then sat in a machine shop for 6 months... and used as tables for cutting other material and that slag fell in as well! It was hell!!!
well i pretty much got it all but these tiny little bits feels like one grain of sand here and there on the bottom. went over them a bunch of times with those pads and scrubbed with scotch brite and then used the pads again etc. and the little bastards are still kinda there. can i use these pads? or are they too intense?
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and oh yeah there were some big pieces that i did use a chisel on. not with a hammer just holding it with my hand and gently tapped the edge. actually came off pretty easy. i cleaned chisel before use. you think ill be ok?
As for the chisel. as long as you didn't gouge the SS you should be fine. SS is just soft and other metals can embed easily.
Those sanding discs are fine... I'd just make sure and use the finest grit you can find (probably 120) and use a new one. Also make sure and use light pressure and go a little at a time because they will take some metal away. Then go back over it with the scuffing disks to smooth everything back out.
I have some decommissioned kegs "on order" from a local brewery. Given what you guys have experienced with plasma cutting and the cleanup, would you still go with a plasma cutter, or go for an angle grinder on a jig?
well i pretty much got it all but these tiny little bits feels like one grain of sand here and there on the bottom. went over them a bunch of times with those pads and scrubbed with scotch brite and then used the pads again etc. and the little bastards are still kinda there. can i use these pads? or are they too intense?
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and oh yeah there were some big pieces that i did use a chisel on. not with a hammer just holding it with my hand and gently tapped the edge. actually came off pretty easy. i cleaned chisel before use. you think ill be ok?