Keg Dry hopping warm under pressure ?

[MotoGP1000]

I’ve been reading about dry hopping in a keg warm under pressure. What I don’t understand is that many of these scenarios car for warm dry hop under pressure for five days of 30 psi. If I do 30 psi cold, then my beer is carbonated in a day. How is anyone successfully dry hopping warm in a keg or under pressure without carbonating their beer over this period of time?
trying to avoid over carbonated beer

 

[moreb33rplz]

Taking a guess, but if you're reading about others dry hopping arm @ 30 psi, it's probably because they want to carbonate their beer. If you don't want to carbonate your beer during warm dry hopping just lower the pressure. If you want to dry hop warm, carbonate in a day, and have the pressure be less than 30'ish psi, I think you're SOL.

If you want to avoid over-carbonated beer, then...lower the pressure?

 

[MotoGP1000]

Taking a guess, but if you're reading about others dry hopping arm @ 30 psi, it's probably because they want to carbonate their beer. If you don't want to carbonate your beer during warm dry hopping just lower the pressure. If you want to dry hop warm, carbonate in a day, and have the pressure be less than 30'ish psi, I think you're SOL.

If you want to avoid over-carbonated beer, then...lower the pressure?

Ok. I couldn’t really follow their timelines. It didn’t make much sense to me. I guess I should plan on dry hopping warm in a keg but keeping the pressure ultra low then pull the pressure up to carbonate after let’s say three days per your suggestion?

 

[moreb33rplz]

I dry hop in the keg warm for a few days. I don't pressurize it but you could pressurize it at 30'ish or so psi to have it be carbonated when you cold crash (check a temp/pressure chart to be sure). Then I put it in the keezer to cold crash it and put it on about 10-12 psi and I start drinking it a week later

 

[fragged]

Ok. I couldn’t really follow their timelines. It didn’t make much sense to me. I guess I should plan on dry hopping warm in a keg but keeping the pressure ultra low then pull the pressure up to carbonate after let’s say three days per your suggestion?

Why not carb while dryhopping? It's the same as carbing it when cold, just higher pressure to achieve the same level of carbonation. Cuts time off carbonation so that you have fresher beer, and therefore getting more out of your dry hop. I'd dryhop around 3 days at 30 psi, crash and transfer to serving keg(so 5 day total dryhop). It will still need some carbonation at that point most likely.

 

[MotoGP1000]

Why not carb while dryhopping? It's the same as carbing it when cold, just higher pressure to achieve the same level of carbonation. Cuts time off carbonation so that you have fresher beer, and therefore getting more out of your dry hop. I'd dryhop around 3 days at 30 psi, crash and transfer to serving keg(so 5 day total dryhop). It will still need some carbonation at that point most likely.

Does beer carbonate slower at warmer temps or something? Normally I do 24 hours at 30 psi when the beer is cold and It’s fully carbonated

 

[Fhizzicks]

CO2 is less soluble at warmer temperatures. That is why a warm beer will gush when opened. I don't have the temperature/ pressure/ volume of CO2 chart in front of me, but my guess is that 30psi at room temperature will carbonate to a similar level as 12 psi at 40F.

 

[fragged]

Does beer carbonate slower at warmer temps or something? Normally I do 24 hours at 30 psi when the beer is cold and It’s fully carbonated

CO2 is less soluble at warmer temperatures. That is why a warm beer will gush when opened. I don't have the temperature/ pressure/ volume of CO2 chart in front of me, but my guess is that 30psi at room temperature will carbonate to a similar level as 12 psi at 40F.

Yep, what Fizzacks said - not slower, but less soluble. More head pressure is needed to force the co2 into solution with the beer. 30 PSI @ 65F is the same as 13 PSI at 40F, 2.57 vs 2.58 volumes.

Another way to think about it, if you take one of your fully carbonated kegs out of the fridge at 13 psi/40 degrees, once it is at room temp of 65 degrees a gauge hooked up to the co2 post would read 30 psi. When you cool it back down, it will return to 13 psi.

I don't quick force carbonate at room temp because the 60 or so psi a keg would need to do that is higher than I'm willing to go. I'm careful enough to trust all my line connections at 30 psi, not so much at 60. Plus I think the PRV on the keg will open at 35psi.

I'd do as I said before at 30 psi and then take time off your normal quick carb method, cut it in half I'd guess. Or, help your dryhop by force carbing at 30 psi warm by shaking the keg until you no longer hear co2 coming out of your regulator.

Personally, I do the 30 psi at room temp, crash and hook up to gas(12 psi 40 degrees). I'm happy with it @ about 3 days in the fridge, and it's properly carbed around day 5 or 6?

 

[ChiknNutz]

A couple charts for reference.

The force carb chart below I think I found on Brulosophy and is based on serving temps.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

Plus I think the PRV on the keg will open at 35psi.

Most PRVs are good to 100 or higher, I have a pressure tester/spunding valve and have found kegs at 90, in particular a rye stout that got too much priming sugar and a saison that continued to ferment in the keg.

 

[fragged]

Most PRVs are good to 100 or higher, I have a pressure tester/spunding valve and have found kegs at 90, in particular a rye stout that got too much priming sugar and a saison that continued to ferment in the keg.

Oh, wow. I though they were way lower, bit come to think of it the do have some pretty stout springs.

I guess I'm being a little paranoid on the rest too, I routinely trust way jankier connections at higher pressures, some much higher. Or maybe it is just my innate laziness mechanism, might find a leak to fix if I turn it up.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

I used to use 60 psi to "set the lids" and do the initial seal, you wouldn't believe how they turn and "wiggle" when they get into position.

 

[DuncB]

I dry hopped my last NEIPA kveik under pressure for both hops. First was warm and I had 35 psi at 30 celsius for 2.3 vols ( natural rise to this with the spunding valve) , then cooled to 14 celsius for the next dry hop, the pressure dropped to about 20 psi ( due to gas dissolving ), then cold crashed after the dry hopping and then closed transfer to the keg.
Keg not opened after yeast pitched until cleaning. Beer was carbed and ready to serve straightaway from the keg.
Only issue was the Ispindel sinking, but amazingly didn't effect beer and cleaned it up dried it out and it works a treat again.
I use this calculator

https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/

 

[fragged]

I dry hopped my last NEIPA kveik under pressure for both hops. First was warm and I had 35 psi at 30 celsius for 2.3 vols ( natural rise to this with the spunding valve) , then cooled to 14 celsius for the next dry hop, the pressure dropped to about 20 psi ( due to gas dissolving ), then cold crashed after the dry hopping and then closed transfer to the keg.
Keg not opened after yeast pitched until cleaning. Beer was carbed and ready to serve straightaway from the keg.
Only issue was the Ispindel sinking, but amazingly didn't effect beer and cleaned it up dried it out and it works a treat again.
I use this calculator

https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/

Hah, was just reading that thread I think looking at the DIY tilt alternatives.

 

[DuncB]

@fragged There's a lot of reading in that thread.

https://www.opensourcedistilling.com/
useful website as the board much easier and better design than the one I started with. The soldering pretty easy definitely adds to the fun and saves beer.

 

[fragged]

@fragged There's a lot of reading in that thread.

https://www.opensourcedistilling.com/
useful website as the board much easier and better design than the one I started with. The soldering pretty easy definitely adds to the fun and saves beer.

Awesome - thanks!