Just got a keg!!!

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kenoglass

Not only do I brew but I play ukulele!
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So I just got myself a keg. Due to space I got a 3 gallon keg. I figure I will bottle some and keg the rest. First question. When I rack I plan on priming with sugar, should I do the whole batch or out some in keg then the rest in bottles? Also I plan to use this keg mostly for picnics and small get togethers. Would it be ok to leave it in basement out of fridge, might not have enough room, then when serving day comes ice it down and serve it that way? This is why I thought if I prime the keg it would be easier to serve at picnics and stuff like that
 
If you're priming with sugar, prime the whole batch at once, then rack some to the keg and bottle the rest.

If I'm reading this correctly, you don't have any CO2 equipment? Literally just the keg? Do you plan on relying on the priming sugar to entirely provide the carbonation for the beer in the keg? If so, you might run into problems with this plan. Specifically, many (most?) kegs don't seal fully unless there's already a little pressure in them. That is, some of my kegs leak at the lid below 3-4 psi. It's not until the pressure reaches 10 psi or so that the lid snugs up to the top and forms a tight seal.

The reason this is an issue is because if your keg is like this, then as the yeast consume the priming sugar and produce CO2, there will be insufficient pressure inside the keg to fully seal the lid, and that CO2 will escape out the lid as fast as the yeast are producing it.

Also, if you plan on bringing this keg to a picnic, you're going to end up with extremely cloudy beer, since the increased yeast (from batch priming) that has settled on the bottom will get jostled back up into solution during transportation.

I would strongly encourage you to look for a CO2 tank and regulator to really get the most out of your keg.
 
If you're priming with sugar, prime the whole batch at once, then rack some to the keg and bottle the rest.

If I'm reading this correctly, you don't have any CO2 equipment? Literally just the keg? Do you plan on relying on the priming sugar to entirely provide the carbonation for the beer in the keg? If so, you might run into problems with this plan. Specifically, many (most?) kegs don't seal fully unless there's already a little pressure in them. That is, some of my kegs leak at the lid below 3-4 psi. It's not until the pressure reaches 10 psi or so that the lid snugs up to the top and forms a tight seal.

The reason this is an issue is because if your keg is like this, then as the yeast consume the priming sugar and produce CO2, there will be insufficient pressure inside the keg to fully seal the lid, and that CO2 will escape out the lid as fast as the yeast are producing it.

Also, if you plan on bringing this keg to a picnic, you're going to end up with extremely cloudy beer, since the increased yeast (from batch priming) that has settled on the bottom will get jostled back up into solution during transportation.

I would strongly encourage you to look for a CO2 tank and regulator to really get the most out of your keg.

I do have a co2 tank and regulator so I will top off keg after priming with co2 and use co2 to serve as well. Just wasn't sure if I iced it down if it would carb properly or would it be all foam?
 
I've never done it, but if you've calculated the proper amount of priming sugar, and minimized the headspace in the keg, it should carb up at room temperature just like any other bottle of beer. Prior to serving, you'd definitely want to get it as cold as possible (within reason; obviously not frozen) and use an ample length of beverage line to balance the pressure and minimize foam during serving.
 
Also keep in mind:

1. when force carbing, the keg needs to be cold to assist co2 dissolving into the beer
2. When naturally carbing, the keg needs to be at fermentation temp to ensure the yeast is active and producing co2.

2 very different ways of getting to the same place.

Kombat, good point, one I hadn't thought of. If he were to initially pressurize the keg with say 10# co2, would the yeast continue to produce co2? I know yeast stops fermenting at 10% ABV, not sure if they are pressure sensitive as well ( probably not, or there would never be bottle bombs)

Even of you do naturally carb, after the first pint is poured your pressure would be nil, the co2 would come out of solution and flatten the beer, and you would have no way to press the beer out of the keg. Still need co2 and a regulator, IMHO.
 
Yep, the yeast will indeed produce CO2. They don't conk out until much higher pressures than we're ever likely to (safely) encounter with bottling.

As for the keg going flat, it's a factor, but it would definitely take more than a single pint poured before the beer would cease flowing. But you're right, you need some way to "push" beer out of the keg as the level drops. If you're consuming it all in one session, a simple hand pump is sufficient, but will oxidize the beer the longer it takes to empty the keg. Best solution is obviously serving with CO2 or beer gas.
 
As far as seating the lid. If you pressurize a primed keg to seat the lid, then leave it at maybe 10lbs there is not enough co2 there to add to what the priming sugar creates to over carbonate the beer. At least as far as I know. I have never naturally carbonated a beer.

Add the priming sugar, seat the lid, condition at room temperature, chill as you would bottles and enjoy. My bottles stay in the basement until I take a few to put into the fridge.
 

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