New England IPA Julius clone (BYO magazine)

[specharka]

Just brewed this one yesterday. Didn't have any oat malt (difficult finding a vendor that carries it), so I substituted 11 oz flaked oats and 5 oz GNO. Definitely looks a bit darker than I was expecting, but the carboy can be deceptive. Used 50 IBU Warrior in lieu of hop extract, otherwise the recipe was unaltered. Managed to squeeze out 5.5G @ 1.067 OG.

Water was:
153 Ca
6 Mg
29 Na
104 SO4
199 Cl
42 HCO3
pH 5.37

 

[DrGMG]

Keep us updated.

 

[DrGMG]

Just brewed this one yesterday. Didn't have any oat malt (difficult finding a vendor that carries it), so I substituted 11 oz flaked oats and 5 oz GNO. Definitely looks a bit darker than I was expecting, but the carboy can be deceptive. Used 50 IBU Warrior in lieu of hop extract, otherwise the recipe was unaltered. Managed to squeeze out 5.5G @ 1.067 OG.

Water was:
153 Ca
6 Mg
29 Na
104 SO4
199 Cl
42 HCO3
pH 5.37

How did it come out?

 

[Mobius570]

I took a shot at brewing this Thursday night on my new Mash & Boil electric kettle. I didn't have hop shot so I added extra Citra and Simcoe at the beginning boil. Also used a white labs London ale liquid yeast but fermentation didn't seem to take off so today I pitched a wyeast 1318. I'm also going to dry hop in the primary on Monday. I tasted a sample after cooling and just before pitching and it seems to have a really nice juicy taste. I'm super excited about this one!

 

[specharka]

How did it come out?

Fantastic! The clone is extremely close to form and I think the water chemistry is on point as well. Head retention on this beer is simply absurd -- close to five minutes elapsed before the foam cap descended. The only reservation I have is that it's not quite bitter enough...the beer finished around 1.015 with some encouragement and the 50 IBU really doesn't do the fabulous nose justice. Think if I ever made this again I would use at least 60 IBU to balance out the malty finish.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1490045041.742356.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1490045063.275630.jpg

 

[DrGMG]

Looks great, glad you liked it.

 

[Hannabrew]

Did you start with 100% RO? If so, what additions did you make to hit those numbers? I get pretty close with gypsum and CC but sodium is low and I can't find a way to bump it up without impacting other areas

 

[specharka]

Did you start with 100% RO? If so, what additions did you make to hit those numbers? I get pretty close with gypsum and CC but sodium is low and I can't find a way to bump it up without impacting other areas

My water is pretty soft but still nowhere near to RO water. If memory serves me correctly, it's somewhere around: 80 Ca, 29 Na, 3 Mg, 27 SO4, 9 Cl, 87 HCO3. My notes show I used 4.4 g CaSO4, 11.2 g CaCl2, 1.0 g MgSO4, and 3.2 mL lactic acid on 9.0 gallons of treated water. I don't think the sodium plays an impact on the overall balance of the beer, since it's there in all of my beers I've had them run the gamut in complexion. I think the most important aspect is achieving a reputable mash pH (~5.35) followed by ~200 Cl : 100 SO4.

Don't be surprised if it finishes high. The Boddington strain is a bit of a pushover.

 

[Hannabrew]

Does this look about right to those that are good with Bru'n Water? I'm still getting the hang of it.

 

[ultravista]

Subscribing

 

[Davevjordon]

Might seem like an unnecessary question, but do you just double all ingredients when applying a 5 gal recipe to make a 10 gal batch? And what challenges have you found with 10 gal batches? I haven't started brewing yet, been building up my equipment and figured I should do a couple 5 gal batches before I jump into 10 gal.

 

[Mobius570]

Might seem like an unnecessary question, but do you just double all ingredients when applying a 5 gal recipe to make a 10 gal batch? And what challenges have you found with 10 gal batches? I haven't started brewing yet, been building up my equipment and figured I should do a couple 5 gal batches before I jump into 10 gal.

Honestly I have never done 10 gallons batches but the best investment I made was Beer Smith 2. Beer Smith will scale batch sizes for you and adjust everything accordingly.

 

[DrGMG]

Yea, use BeerSmith. It's not as simple as doubling up the ingredients.

 

[krispn]

So I don't have any hop oil extract but I do have some NZ hops that I was thinking of using as bittering hop,Rakau 9.5 alpha acid and Motueka 7.5 alpha acid.
If I were to use these what sort of amount would I be looking at to compensate for the hop oil.

I'm making a 3 gallon batch, having scaled down from the 5 g recipe.

Any suggestions welcome. I'm getting a grainfather delivered for the weekend and this will be the first brew!

Excited!

 

[dmenace86]

Repost...

 

[dmenace86]

Might seem like an unnecessary question, but do you just double all ingredients when applying a 5 gal recipe to make a 10 gal batch? And what challenges have you found with 10 gal batches? I haven't started brewing yet, been building up my equipment and figured I should do a couple 5 gal batches before I jump into 10 gal.

Yea, use BeerSmith. It's not as simple as doubling up the ingredients.

Converting a recipe is linear. If going from 5 gallons to 10 gallons just double the ingredients. If going from 10 to 5 divide in half. However, keep in mind that your efficiency may be different than whoever posted the recipe, so you may end up with a higher, or lower, OG, even if following the recipe exactly. Not a big deal though, you'll just end up with a different ABV, assuming you reach the stated FG. I definitely agree about using software though. I personally use Beer Smith 2 as well, but there are others that are just as good. There are a lot of features that come in very handy. Anything from recipes to ingredient info, and everywhere in between.

Meant to quote the other 2 posts to begin with. Not even 3pm, and apparently I've already had a few too many home brews...

 

[paarman]

So I am looking to give this brew a shot this weekend. I decided to go with Omega Labs DIPA Ale yeast rather than the 1318 London III after a long, hard inner-battle. Everything else I plan on keeping the same.

One major difference I am doing is I plan on bottling this rather than kegging... Has anyone brewed this and bottled? Are you cold crashing before bottling, or just bottling it then crashing in the bottles? Normally when I bottle, I am then storing the bottles around room temp and only putting them in the fridge before drinking... This will be my first NE IPA, so should I prepare for a different practice with this one?

Lastly, from what I gather throughout this thread fermentation doesn't seem like it should take the full 14 days (unless the FG is not falling). I'm getting it should be around 10 or so, with the final 3-4 days being dry hopped, before crashing and/or kegging/bottling.

I'm really excited to try this out. I have never had the actual Julius, but have had a couple others from TH and they are fantastic. Brew day can't get here soon enough! Thanks to anyone in advance for the help.

 

[Jmash]

I bottle and don't cold crash. I've used both Conan and 1318 for these recipes. I prefer 1318 but if you are using Conan, I recommend mashing a bit higher. Mid to upper 150's. Conan always seems to finish on the dry side. You can up your grain bill a notch to make up for the lower ABV if that matters to you.

 

[DrGMG]

Another thing is that when bottle conditioning for 3-4 weeks it may finish less hazy as well. Good luck.

 

[jigtwins]

Some brewers seem to think that you need a ton of yeast in suspension to make your beer hazy and that is just not true. I've used WLP 007 a bunch of times for NEIPA's which is a real heavy floccer.

What temps were you fermenting at with this yeast? I use it alot at 64-68 deg. looking to try this.

 

[paarman]

Another thing is that when bottle conditioning for 3-4 weeks it may finish less hazy as well. Good luck.

I'll have to drink it quick then... rats.

 

[Sbe2]

So I am looking to give this brew a shot this weekend. I decided to go with Omega Labs DIPA Ale yeast rather than the 1318 London III after a long, hard inner-battle. Everything else I plan on keeping the same.

One major difference I am doing is I plan on bottling this rather than kegging... Has anyone brewed this and bottled? Are you cold crashing before bottling, or just bottling it then crashing in the bottles? Normally when I bottle, I am then storing the bottles around room temp and only putting them in the fridge before drinking... This will be my first NE IPA, so should I prepare for a different practice with this one?

Lastly, from what I gather throughout this thread fermentation doesn't seem like it should take the full 14 days (unless the FG is not falling). I'm getting it should be around 10 or so, with the final 3-4 days being dry hopped, before crashing and/or kegging/bottling.

I'm really excited to try this out. I have never had the actual Julius, but have had a couple others from TH and they are fantastic. Brew day can't get here soon enough! Thanks to anyone in advance for the help.

There are some threads floating around saying that 1318 holds up the best when bottling this style, ie they don't turn to brown swamp water.

A few batches ago I did a kinda NEIPA with 1056, a month later they are brown.

I just did my first NEIPA with 1318. I cold crashed because my second round of DH did not drop. They have been bottle conditioning for a week and are starting to carb up. The color has not turned yet.

 

[DrGMG]

Most people believe the color change is due to oxidation. But that's a good experiment to make (bottle with different yeasts).

 

[paarman]

Well if this one doesn't turn out right, I'll try the 1318 next time. Just thought I'd switch it up and see what happens. I'll post results.. planning on brewing this Saturday.

My biggest hurdle now is trying to get the water right. I have bought bottled 5 gallon water in the past, but I have no idea what the mineral levels are without a test kit that I don't have. I have considered going RO instead, but haven't decided.

 

[DrGMG]

Get distilled water and use this if you can:

Water Profile: Ca 135 | Mg 1 | Na 10 | SO4 71 | Cl 186

 

[paarman]

Get distilled water and use this if you can:

Water Profile: Ca 135 | Mg 1 | Na 10 | SO4 71 | Cl 186

Thanks, I was actually leaning towards distilled after much reading on it yesterday.

So I've done much reading on the CaCl2:SO4 ratios, but I guess I am not fully understanding (or remembering from high school chemistry) how you separate the Ca numbers from the Cl #s. I have some Calcium Carbonate powder as well as gypsum, but how do you separate the values of CaCl in the instance above, where they are two different numbers (135 vs 186)? Is there something else I need to buy to increase them both separately? Maybe that's where I am confused.

If I need to be directed elsewhere to understand that, by all means, point me that way. Need to brush up on my chemistry, that's for sure haha. Thanks in advance.

 

[Sbe2]

Thanks, I was actually leaning towards distilled after much reading on it yesterday.

So I've done much reading on the CaCl2:SO4 ratios, but I guess I am not fully understanding (or remembering from high school chemistry) how you separate the Ca numbers from the Cl #s. I have some Calcium Carbonate powder as well as gypsum, but how do you separate the values of CaCl in the instance above, where they are two different numbers (135 vs 186)? Is there something else I need to buy to increase them both separately? Maybe that's where I am confused.

If I need to be directed elsewhere to understand that, by all means, point me that way. Need to brush up on my chemistry, that's for sure haha. Thanks in advance.

The answer to more questions is to use the Bru'n Water spreadsheet. It will help you with your additions, but may also confuse the heck out of you.

 

[isomerization]

The answer to more questions is to use the Bru'n Water spreadsheet. It will help you with your additions, but may also confuse the heck out of you.

That's called learnin!

 

[paarman]

The answer to more questions is to use the Bru'n Water spreadsheet. It will help you with your additions, but may also confuse the heck out of you.

That's called learnin!

You are right. I have it and have tried to go through and use it and it did confused the heck out of me haha. It's quite a bit of info, and having been removed from chemistry for, oh 13ish years, it's an overwhelming crash course, that's for sure. I understood some of it and I am attempting to cram a lot of learning into a short time as I need to pick up my water today, so I'm just lost on the part where CaCl is one number in some places and two separate numbers elsewhere.

I've since lessened my confusion a little bit by actually finding out how many ppm a gram or tsp of the minerals adds... That was one confusing part is the labels on these don't actually list that, just "how much to add per gallon".

Thanks for the tip(s).

 

[isomerization]

You are right. I have it and have tried to go through and use it and it did confused the heck out of me haha. It's quite a bit of info, and having been removed from chemistry for, oh 13ish years, it's an overwhelming crash course, that's for sure. I understood some of it and I am attempting to cram a lot of learning into a short time as I need to pick up my water today, so I'm just lost on the part where CaCl is one number in some places and two separate numbers elsewhere.

I've since lessened my confusion a little bit by actually finding out how many ppm a gram or tsp of the minerals adds... That was one confusing part is the labels on these don't actually list that, just "how much to add per gallon".

Thanks for the tip(s).

Take all the chemistry out of it and do the following:

1.) plug in your water values (or use DO/distilled)
2.) plug in your grain bill
3.) save a copy of this document for each recipe/iteration
4.) calculate your expected mash volume, sparge volume and desired water ion levels (you can use the custom selection to do this easily)
5.) play with the values for adding in SO4 (usually gypsum, but I do a little epsom for Mg too), Cl (usually calcium chloride, but i add a little canning salt for Na too) and if a dark beer, consider chalk/baking soda additions for mash pH control

Step 5 is kind of like a puzzle, where you add a little of this, a little of that and try to hit all the values you'd like while keeping mash pH in a respectable range.

While understanding all the chemistry is better than not, you don't need to since the spreadsheet is doing all the work for you!

RE the CaCl2 part, its because the ions dissociate in water, so what is stable as a solid in salt form (the 1 number), really plays 2 parts in beer in liquid form. Hope that makes sense!