Jones'ing for a stainless fermenter - maybe Delta

[Hunky]

I'm currently using a Speidel 30L (have the 10 gallon one too but never used it) and though it works fine, it always smells like the last batch, despite soaking in cleaning solutions. Not sure that matters, but seems like it could. Wanting to get away from plastic, too.

So this particular 8 gallon Delta fermenter I'm considering has a base price of $385. It has a 4" tri-clamp on the lid along with 2 - 1.5" tri-clamps. The base has a 1.5" tri-clamp drain with butterfly valve, along with a 1.5" Tri Clamp Racking Valve and Racking Arm. Plus thermowell. And supposedly pressurizes up to 6 psi. It's all here if curious: https://www.deltabrewingsystems.com...tion/products/the-fermtank-8-gallon-tri-clamp

Delta is one place that will ship to my address in Alaska, and for under $100. A lot of the other vendors won't even ship, or some will for much more than a hundred. So there's that.

I'm wondering about how others might use it. I've built some of my own kettles, so can solder.. or use weld-less bulkhead fittings. Is anyone doing any of that?
I have my brew space in the basement so for fermenting, I use a terrarium heater and an old brewpi contraption for controlling it. For cold crashing though.. Delta offers a 4" tri-clamp cooling coil for $70, but that uses up the 4"er. A blow-off tube might use up one 1.5" tri-clamp port. Maybe a hop bong on the other, unless I go with magnets. I might want to add a gas-in port for racking to a keg without oxygen ingress.

Another issue I have is a too small of sink. So this Delta has a nice drain for cleaning.. wouldn't have to tip into a sink.

I've also considered configuring a 15 gallon Sanke keg as a fermenter but only do 5 gallon batches these days so worried if the head space is just too much. I could solder a 4" tri-clamp ferrule to the bottom, turn the keg upside down, and use the Sanke outlet (from what was the top) as a bottom drain. Add a few other ports for thermowell, racking, etc. I have a couple of those kegs around. Seems the fermenting would eat up the oxygen in the head space, but just not sure if it would be a detriment.
cheers, JD

 

[Deadalus]

The link you have above does not lead to the conical you have pictured? The link goes to the Fermtank, which is $385. The one you have pictured is the The Fermtank Pro Series - 8 Gallon and costs $590 base. Which one are you interested in?

 

[Hunky]

The link you have above does not lead to the conical you have pictured? The link goes to the Fermtank, which is $385. The one you have pictured is the The Fermtank Pro Series - 8 Gallon and costs $590 base. Which one are you interested in?

oops. Thanks.
https://www.deltabrewingsystems.com...tion/products/the-fermtank-8-gallon-tri-clamp

 

[sibelman]

Of course, you may wish to also consider competing products, from Spike for example. Some have posted that the bottom port is mostly for yeast harvesting, and that 1-1/2" is small for that (or for dumping trub).

 

[Hunky]

Of course, you may wish to also consider competing products, from Spike for example. Some have posted that the bottom port is mostly for yeast harvesting, and that 1-1/2" is small for that (or for dumping trub).

Spike Brewing​

Spike Brewing Checkout​

Express checkout​

OR

Contact​

Log in



Email me with news and offers

Delivery​

The products in your cart are not available for delivery to your location.​

Change delivery address or .

(I'll keep an eye out for other dealers.. just creeping up to the $600 and above mark sort of scares me off as I don't drink that much anymore, being as old as I am I can't do it.) But.. never say never.

 

[Hunky]

Anvil won't ship here either. I suppose I could give the address to a cargo plane like Alaska Air cargo in Sea-Tac. That might work if I talk to a human at the vendors. Cargo rate might not be much higher than USPS. UPS is generally out of the ball park. Although Amazon does ship items here for free.. if I could catch something worthwhile there. Hmm.

For instance, Amazon has a 13 gallon Kegmenter for $300 and for me, a $2 shipping charge. Not that I want one of those.. would have to modify it quite a bit.. same with the smaller ones. The Anvil buckets are never in stock when I look - or hidden so they don't have to ship me one. Would like something with a bottom drain so I can clean the thing more easily.

Morebeer won't ship, or on items they do, charge excessively.

 

[bike2brew]

Looks like a nice one. I use the Ss Brewtech 7.5 gallon bucket w/ chiller coils. Affordable enough for 2 with my available footprint.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I switched from a converted Sanke keg, built into a fermenter to a Spike conical. There's other options to buy or build to use as a fermenter but IMO purchasing a conical fermenter offers several benefits.

It's an investment in brewing that should last forever. Interior surfaces and welds are smooth. They offer thought out conveniences for brewing. They are easy to clean and sanitize.

It's still a luxury item to most home brewers but I have never heard of a brewer ditching their conical to go back to using plastic buckets.

 

[Deadalus]

I have Brewbuilt and SS Brewtech unitanks, also SS Brewtech mini-buckets. I'm currently using the SSB uni for the first time. It has a 1.5" dump port. The Brewbuilts have 2" dump ports. Those work fine besides inadvertently making a mess if you don't release the pressure. That's just operator error!

The minibuckets have an NPT racking arm, which needs careful consideration when racking since you are loosening the threaded connection. On my Brewbuilts (X2 7 gallon), I installed an SSB racking arm and it rotates easier. I use a teflon gasket to help that.

I added a TC port to one minibucket lid so far by soldering. This allows me to dry hop with my hop bong and use a TC blowoff tube otherwise. I added a thermowell and just picked up the coils on sale. They are small enough to fit in most minifridges though.

The fermbucket has the two 1.5 ports on top and the big 4". If you used a ferm chamber, you'd be able to get an adapter for the 4" port and I'd guess two more ports could be added. I haven't investigated 4" TC fittings. A blowoff is a must, anything pressurized should have a prv, and I view a thermowell as a must. On my unis I have gas stones and all have coils, none jacketed. Along with using a ferm chamber, another cooling option is a glycol blanket that wraps around fermenters, I forget the details. If what you choose seems limited by ports, there's generally an alternative solution possible as you mentioned DIY.

The Fermbucket states 6psi max. This is considerably lower than most unitanks and may limit pressure fermenting. Six psi is also low for carbonating and in most cases would require further carbing. My unis are all 15 psi, which if the beer is chilled and everything sealed right can be sufficient but sometimes a little more may be needed. I could serve out of them if I really wanted to but haven't needed to do that.

Check with SS Brewtech, they are CA based and might ship. Try Brewbuilt directly too. Perhaps Kegland even or from China directly if there's a brand you are comfortable ordering from.

Keep asking questions as you narrow down what you can get shipped. There are pros and cons to different SS fermenters. Also, knowing which accessories are important helps to evaluate prices. It's a mixed bag as far as what is included in the price, so you'll want to list out what's included and what you want. Even if it's only the one seller that will ship!

 

[Willy]

See if u can find anything on FB marketplace, Craigslist etc. maybe there a local who is getting out of the "sport" - that's how I got my Spike CF-10, with so many accessories it was crazy. Maybe... You get lucky.

 

[sibelman]

The products in your cart are not available for delivery to your location.​

Nome. Dang, that's a serious limitation. Maybe others could be persuaded to use the shipper Delta uses, on a one-time basis?

 

[Hunky]

See if u can find anything on FB marketplace, Craigslist etc. maybe there a local who is getting out of the "sport" - that's how I got my Spike CF-10, with so many accessories it was crazy. Maybe... You get lucky.

I'll give it a try on Craigslist.. quit FB so a no-go there. If I can decide on a fermenter, I might still just try air cargo if no other shipping arrangement works. But it would be up to whomever sells on Craigslist if they would want to ship it to me. Only brewers in Nome I know are using the Vevor? buckets (available on Amazon), but I wouldn't mind going for better.

 

[Hunky]

I have Brewbuilt and SS Brewtech unitanks, also SS Brewtech mini-buckets. I'm currently using the SSB uni for the first time. It has a 1.5" dump port. The Brewbuilts have 2" dump ports. Those work fine besides inadvertently making a mess if you don't release the pressure. That's just operator error!

The minibuckets have an NPT racking arm, which needs careful consideration when racking since you are loosening the threaded connection. On my Brewbuilts (X2 7 gallon), I installed an SSB racking arm and it rotates easier. I use a teflon gasket to help that.

I added a TC port to one minibucket lid so far by soldering. This allows me to dry hop with my hop bong and use a TC blowoff tube otherwise. I added a thermowell and just picked up the coils on sale. They are small enough to fit in most minifridges though.

<snip>

I love hearing how folks use these things. Thanks for the good info!

 

[Willy]

Another SS option - use an oversized corny keg. I have a 6.5 gal and a 10 g corny. The 10 gal has a 1 1/2" triclamp port on the lid. (BrewHardware.com)

Works great and you can ferment under pressure when the mood strikes. Just finished an 8 g batch in the 10 g torpedo corny megamouth keg. Delicious already. Still lagering.

 

[Hunky]

Another SS option - use an oversized corny keg. I have a 6.5 gal and a 10 g corny. The 10 gal has a 1 1/2" triclamp port on the lid. (BrewHardware.com)

Works great and you can ferment under pressure when the mood strikes. Just finished an 8 g batch in the 10 g torpedo corny megamouth keg. Delicious already. Still lagering.

In my youtube searches, I have seen that option. The best thing about one of those is easier to pick up and dump for cleaning into my too small sink than the bucket/conicals would be - hence the desire for bottom drain on those. Assume you could figure out a thermowell for controlling temps somehow.. I can search that. Or tape the temp probe to the side under a blanket or something. I'll take another look there.

Is the 6.5 gallon good enough considering active krausen/foaming? I suppose there's ways to mitigate that.. fermtabs or under pressure.

 

[Hunky]

In my youtube searches, I have seen that option. The best thing about one of those is easier to pick up and dump for cleaning into my too small sink than the bucket/conicals would be - hence the desire for bottom drain on those. Assume you could figure out a thermowell for controlling temps somehow.. I can search that. Or tape the temp probe to the side under a blanket or something. I'll take another look there.

Is the 6.5 gallon good enough considering active krausen/foaming? I suppose there's ways to mitigate that.. fermtabs or under pressure.

Do you rack to another keg for dispensing? Or let it stay..

 

[Willy]

Do you rack to another keg for dispensing? Or let it stay..

I use a 6.5 g to ferment 5 gal batch. Good headroom. AOK so far for me. Then transfer to a standard corny keg, using 3-5 psi of CO2. And some gravity too in most cases.

For temp control - in the house, it's 68°F. Fine for ales. No temp control needed. For lagers, I have a small top load freezer, with an inkbird. No problem keeping temps in the 50-60° F range (or lower when crashing). I put a small collar on the mini freezer and the 6.5 g and 10 g corny kegs both fit fine. Blowoff into a ball jar of starsan, using the "in" port during early ferment. After 4-5 days, add pressure if you like with spunding valve.

You could also use a 5 g corny keg for a 3.5 g batch if you want.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Do you rack to another keg for dispensing? Or let it stay..

If you decide to ferment in a corny keg, there's different lids you could use. Some have a TC fitting while some welded on ports. Lot of extra flexibility. Also trimming off the beer side tube will slow it to pick up less dropped yeast.

I have a couple keys for just that, then transfer to a serving keg.

Take some time, hopefully an affordable option pops up for you.

 

[shoengine]

Of course, you may wish to also consider competing products, from Spike for example. Some have posted that the bottom port is mostly for yeast harvesting, and that 1-1/2" is small for that (or for dumping trub).

Agreed, unless pressure is used, clearing 90° 1.5" bottom ports are problematic.

 

[wickedbeernut]

Agreed, unless pressure is used, clearing 90° 1.5" bottom ports are problematic.

You don't see many 1.5" tri-clamp dump ports any more. The Brewtools F-series is 2" tri-clamp. The BrewBuilt X3-series is 3" tri-clamp.

 

[ITV]

I still have my Spidel 30l and 60l fermenters but they have been replaced with my Spike CF-10.

I know what you mean about the last batch still lingering but stored with the lid off, it will eventually go away even though it does not affect the next batch of beer.

Delta is about 30 minutes from my house and they are kind enough to offer 50# sacks of grain for a reasonable price (provided you are able to pick it up).

For my Spike conical I use an upright freezer as my fermentation chamber so no need for cooling coils. Because cold pressure transfers are easy to do with my conical I don't use my Spidel's unless I am in a situation that I am fermenting more than one batch at the same time.

The only thing that I dislike about the Delta is the cheap digital thermometer, I prefer the old analog thermometers.

 

[Hunky]

I still have my Spidel 30l and 60l fermenters but they have been replaced with my Spike CF-10.

Delta is about 30 minutes from my house and they are kind enough to offer 50# sacks of grain for a reasonable price (provided you are able to pick it up).

Thanks for the data points! Love it! Curious why you chose to go to the conical .. just ease of doing various things I suppose? And lucky guy being able to source directly from Delta or whatever vendor. I was having 50 lb bags of grain shipped, but haven't priced it lately. Postal prices have sky rocketed.

For my Spike conical I use an upright freezer as my fermentation chamber so no need for cooling coils. Because cold pressure transfers are easy to do with my conical I don't use my Spidel's unless I am in a situation that I am fermenting more than one batch at the same time.

I ferment in our basement which stays nice and cool. I haven't ever tried a lager.. would be perfect for that. So my main concern is heating. I use a temp controller I built with brewpi and a heating mat. But for cold crashing, I don't have a great system. I have a chest type kegerator that I sometimes pull my serving kegs out of and put in the Speidel.. but don't have an upright. That would be another pricey item up here unless I can find a used one locally.

The only thing that I dislike about the Delta is the cheap digital thermometer, I prefer the old analog thermometers.

View attachment 883446View attachment 883447

I use a temp probe with my controller, so a cheap thermometer would hit the bin, probably.

 

[jdubdvdt]

It seems like you'd want a different solution, but I ferment in 1/4 bbl slim sankes that I bought off a brewery for $40 each. I removed the spears and bought ball lock adapters and floating dip tubes. I have about $120 invested overall into each.

They can pressure ferment, pressure transfer, and have solid handles. I ferment up to 6.5 gallons at a time and I can fit two of them in a 7cu ft chest freezer. Kind of a pain to lift and stinks that I can't see inside too well.

I brew a ton (with two young children at home) and I would love a Delta, Spike, SS brewtech or similar, but I have enough stuff to clean with my setup. I'd lose my mind if I had more triclamps and gaskets to clean. My driver isn't cost, but space and speed I can clean. I typically rinse the yeast and big junk out and then use a keg washer for 30 minutes to an hour with hot PBW. Soak the ball lock parts and floating dip tube, rinse, then sanitize and reassemble.

Talking with Brewhardware about modifying the kegs to have 4" tri clamps. I'm considering modifying because I'd like more features (thermowell, hop bong, etc) and being able to reach inside to access my Rapt pill or for whatever reason.

I enjoy them, but not for everyone. I get the appeal for the conicals. Wish I had the time and space.

 

[Hunky]

It seems like you'd want a different solution, but I ferment in 1/4 bbl slim sankes that I bought off a brewery for $40 each. I removed the spears and bought ball lock adapters and floating dip tubes. I have about $120 invested overall into each.

They can pressure ferment, pressure transfer, and have solid handles. I ferment up to 6.5 gallons at a time and I can fit two of them in a 7cu ft chest freezer. Kind of a pain to lift and stinks that I can't see inside too well.

I brew a ton (with two young children at home) and I would love a Delta, Spike, SS brewtech or similar, but I have enough stuff to clean with my setup. I'd lose my mind if I had more triclamps and gaskets to clean. My driver isn't cost, but space and speed I can clean. I typically rinse the yeast and big junk out and then use a keg washer for 30 minutes to an hour with hot PBW. Soak the ball lock parts and floating dip tube, rinse, then sanitize and reassemble.

Talking with Brewhardware about modifying the kegs to have 4" tri clamps. I'm considering modifying because I'd like more features (thermowell, hop bong, etc) and being able to reach inside to access my Rapt pill or for whatever reason.

I enjoy them, but not for everyone. I get the appeal for the conicals. Wish I had the time and space.

I was thinking of going the keg route earlier. Was going to solder in a 4" tri-clamp ferrule on the smooth bottom of the keg (the top has awkward contours on the kegs I have) and use the 1.5" opening on the bottom as a drain. This video gave me confidence in soldering that big a ferrule.. I've done up to 1.5" in the past.
"Converting a keg into a home distillation boiler."

I was worried about too much head space for 5 gallon batches in a 15 gallon keg.. maybe not really an issue. Or I could do the occasional 10 gallon batch, or as someone said I think above.. try a 8 gallon batch. Don't know. Would be cheaper. I would have to get a larger BIAB kettle I think for a 10 gallon batch, so there's that.
I used a computer webcam hooked up to my phone or maybe a computer to view inside the keg when I first got it and cleaned it.

 

[shoengine]

You don't see many 1.5" tri-clamp dump ports any more. The Brewtools F-series is 2" tri-clamp. The BrewBuilt X3-series is 3" tri-clamp.

The body of the fermenter features three 1.5" tri-clamp ports: one for the thermowell, one for the racking arm and ball valve, and a drain port for cleaning or harvesting yeast.

 

[Indian_villager]

So aside from not having residual aroma, what are your actual goals with the fermenters? Pressure Fermentation, Yeast collection, Yeast and Hop Dump? What do you have to supply cooling? I think narrowing down the things that are important for you will help make a suggestion,

 

[jdubdvdt]

I was thinking of going the keg route earlier. Was going to solder in a 4" tri-clamp ferrule on the smooth bottom of the keg (the top has awkward contours on the kegs I have) and use the 1.5" opening on the bottom as a drain. This video gave me confidence in soldering that big a ferrule.. I've done up to 1.5" in the past.
"Converting a keg into a home distillation boiler."

I was worried about too much head space for 5 gallon batches in a 15 gallon keg.. maybe not really an issue. Or I could do the occasional 10 gallon batch, or as someone said I think above.. try a 8 gallon batch. Don't know. Would be cheaper. I would have to get a larger BIAB kettle I think for a 10 gallon batch, so there's that.
I used a computer webcam hooked up to my phone or maybe a computer to view inside the keg when I first got it and cleaned it.



View attachment 883451View attachment 883452View attachment 883453

1/4 bbl is 7.75 gallons and works just fine for 5 gallon batches!
The 1/4 bbl is less common than 1/6 and 1/2 bbls. But you have the right idea if you can get your hands on one for cheap.
I will likely be building a 1/2 bbl for my double batches that I don't want to split. It is just too easy.

I would say the biggest driver keeping me in the 1/4 bbl kegs is that I can fit two of them in my chest freezer so I can typically have two different lagers or two different ales going at the same time.

 

[ITV]

Thanks for the data points! Love it! Curious why you chose to go to the conical .. just ease of doing various things I suppose? And lucky guy being able to source directly from Delta or whatever vendor. I was having 50 lb bags of grain shipped, but haven't priced it lately. Postal prices have sky rocketed.



I ferment in our basement which stays nice and cool. I haven't ever tried a lager.. would be perfect for that. So my main concern is heating. I use a temp controller I built with brewpi and a heating mat. But for cold crashing, I don't have a great system. I have a chest type kegerator that I sometimes pull my serving kegs out of and put in the Speidel.. but don't have an upright. That would be another pricey item up here unless I can find a used one locally.



I use a temp probe with my controller, so a cheap thermometer would hit the bin, probably.


View attachment 883448View attachment 883449

I went with a conical (besides the bling factor) for the other benifits: cold pressure transfers, harvest yeast and "ease" of clean-up with stainless steel vs. plastic.

I also brew in my basement, mainly because I store my brew equipment in there. I purchased a used upright freezer ($200) craigslist find and use a wi-fi inkbird temp controller with the probe inserted in the conical's thermowell.
For heating (although I prefer to let the temperature free rise) I use an inexpensive ceramic heater (the rectangular black box on the bottom in my conical photo) also controlled by the inkbird. I either unplug the cooling or heating to avoid the heater and freezer from "fighting" each other. My current setup allows me to easily do lagers.

The upright freezer also has other benifits, if we are hosting a party, and I am not fermenting, I can convert it to either a refrigerator or freezer. It also doubles as storage for my empty conical.

The spiedel's have one advantage in that the handles can support the weight of a full fermenter unlike the conicals where the handles are intended for moving an empty fermenter. With my conical inside the upright freezer I pump the wort from my brew kettle (through the plate chiller) directly into the conical. As I am getting up in age, I modified my system over the years to avoid lifting, I still carry my mashtun full of spent grain upstairs to drive 5 minutes away to someone who has hens (putting my spent grain to good use).

For your situation it is good to know that companies like Delta are willing to ship (at a reasonable price) to you.

 

[Jose Diaz]

I was in a similar situation not that long ago. Conicals are way more than what I need, and frankly, too expensive. That's before getting into the temp control conversation, which is another animal ($$) with that type of vessel. I considered the Delta Pro for quite a bit of time, but ultimately decided against it. It's too big to fit comfortably in a 5.0 cu ft cooler (I live in TX, so... necessary). It really doesn't hold meaningful pressure at 6 psi max. Also, I'm unlikely going to be harvesting yeast (at least in the near future). Looks nice, but it has design and utility compromises (IMO).

Finally, I opted for the regular 8 gal Fermtank w/ the upgraded TC lid. I saved a good chunk of money and it ticked a lot of the boxes on what I was looking for. The bottom port is no good for trub dumping or yeast harvesting, but makes cleaning a breeze and with much less effort of having to tilt and dump (like regular bucket styles). The TC lid upgrade was the deciding factor for me. The 1.5" top TC port is enough for a hop bung. Delta sells one - I got it, but you have options. The lid also comes with three pre-drilled holes which are wonderful. I set it up with a gas and liquid post (w/ flat silicone gaskets), the third hole for airlock (my choice) or blow-off (included). At 2 psi I can collect samples and transfer oxygen-free with a floating dip tube connected to the liquid post - one of my biggest goals. A 000 bung/plug takes care of covering the airlock hole when applying CO2 pressure. It also has an integrated thermowell, which is perfect for the Inkbird - another box ticked.

All in all, I'm very happy with my choice. Perhaps an option for you to consider and save some coin.

 

[Jose Diaz]

I forgot to mention, the interior is polished. Very easy to clean.

 

[wickedbeernut]

You don't see many 1.5" tri-clamp dump ports any more. The Brewtools F-series is 2" tri-clamp. The BrewBuilt X3-series is 3" tri-clamp.

The body of the fermenter features three 1.5" tri-clamp ports: one for the thermowell, one for the racking arm and ball valve, and a drain port for cleaning or harvesting yeast.

I thought we were discussing whether a 1.5" tri-clamp bottom-most "dump" port was adequate or whether the dump port should be 2" or 3" tri-clamp. I was simply pointing out the current generation of conical unitanks has moved away from a 1.5" tri-clamp dump port.

The current generation of conical unitanks has at least a dozen lid and body / cone ports including an 8" tri-clamp main port on the welded lid (no full-lid band clamp) and a 2" tri-clamp cone port to accept a low-watt density immersion heating element (no conical heating pad). Of course, the unitanks are jacketed (no cooling coil). Brewtools will ship a fully-jacketed (cylinder and cone) conical unitank later this year which is also fully-insulated (no neoprene jacket). I expect BrewBuilt to follow suit.

 

[shoengine]

I thought we were discussing whether a 1.5" tri-clamp bottom-most "dump" port was adequate or whether the dump port should be 2" or 3" tri-clamp. I was simply pointing out the current generation of conical unitanks has moved away from a 1.5" tri-clamp dump port.

No, we're discussing stainless fermentor options in Alaska.

 

[Hunky]

So aside from not having residual aroma, what are your actual goals with the fermenters? Pressure Fermentation, Yeast collection, Yeast and Hop Dump? What do you have to supply cooling? I think narrowing down the things that are important for you will help make a suggestion,

Of course I should be delineating my goals, at least in my head. One is the desire to move away from plastic as a concept. Not that it will help on the intake of microplastics as they are everywhere and ubiquitous, but it is in my head.

Ease of cleaning certainly. For something in the shape of either a bucket or a conical, it would be nice to have a bottom drain so I didn't have to carry the thing up the stairs and outside, or try to hit my little sink while dumping. I suppose a 1.5" drain would suit that since during cleaning I could use my spray hose to break up the trub before opening the valve. For that matter, a 3/4" on some of the buckets would work for that. But.. I could still dump in my sink with a bucket or whatever if careful. The sink drain uses a submerged pump to get the water/gunk up to the house drain level.

As for yeast collection.. I've done that a few times. Not a big deal for me, but I haven't really grown much as a brewer. Hoping to do more. Mostly I've done a couple IPA's, lots of stouts and porters, and brown ales. The US-05 and 04 have been go-to's.. not much experimenting yet. I've just moved from 3 kettle to BIAB, and have only gone through 4 brews on that so far.

Cooling: presently it is 42 degrees outside now and I brew in a basement that is usually that temp. So for fermentation I've only had to heat. I have a terrarium heating pad setup with temp control. Cooling so far has only been for cold crashing.. I take the serving kegs out of my chest freezer kegerator, put in the fermenter, and drop the temp in the freezer. Kind of a big lift for an old guy, so was thinking of rigging up a cooling line from that freezer to maybe coils inside the fermenter.. though for cold crashing I've heard various success/nonsuccess stories.

/jd

 

[sibelman]

Given your goals and location (i.e., shipping challenge), the Delta Fermtank TC seems like a fine fit at a good price. I share your preference to reduce plastic parts.

btw, you may find dumping trub into your smallish sink to be fairly straightforward. (That said, I'm glad of my 24x24 sink, which simplifies cleaning large vessels.)

 

[wickedbeernut]

No, we're discussing stainless fermentor options in Alaska.

@sibelman pointed out that the 1.5" tri-clamp dump port on the FermTank is small and proposed a Spike conical unitank with its 2" tri-clamp dump port as an alternative. Spike ships to Alaska upon special request. The "Temperature Control Bundle" (cooling coil, neoprene jacket, pump, rebranded Inkbird controller, ...) is sold separate making the conical unitank more affordable if you're not after heating / cooling control.

 

[Broken Crow]

Dunno if this may help; I'm a big fan of sankes as fermenters, but I'm also a big fan of Fermonsters. As to the 'Plastic thing'; since there was a mini-scandal over badly formulated PET water bottles back in the 90's, pretty much every regulatory agency on earth turned the spotlight on it and you won't get any contamination from modern economic marvels like fermonsters or fermzillas.
If you're gonna consider a broad range of vessels and function suitably outwieghs Bling; the poly top/bottom sankes with the straight sides are nice and lightwieght and you can buy a ready-made top;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sankeball.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2gksingle.htm
Or; You can make a nifty 'Fermhead' that can attach to just about anything;

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-fit-it-to-fermonster-sankey-whatever.704064/
The popular Flotitt fits in the neck of a sanke and if you don't wanna get a small CIP ball and pump for cleaning, you can just make a wand with a piece of copper tubing to shove up it and wash it out...no extra fittings on the keg required.
You can even look at milk cans and put one of those on it. (a milk can can hold about 3psi, so OK for O2-free transfers, but SOL on pressure fermenting)
Dunno if you've considered cross-border shopping, but a bit south of you, Goldsteam Brewing is sadly going out of business and you could contact him and maybe get a good deal on some of the remaining stock, such as this 7G Anvil:
https://goldsteam.com/shop/fermenti...d-conical-fermenters/7-gallon-anvil-crucible/
Just trying offer food for thought.

 

[Hunky]

I was in a similar situation not that long ago. Conicals are way more than what I need, and frankly, too expensive. That's before getting into the temp control conversation, which is another animal ($$) with that type of vessel. I considered the Delta Pro for quite a bit of time, but ultimately decided against it. It's too big to fit comfortably in a 5.0 cu ft cooler (I live in TX, so... necessary). It really doesn't hold meaningful pressure at 6 psi max. Also, I'm unlikely going to be harvesting yeast (at least in the near future). Looks nice, but it has design and utility compromises (IMO).

Finally, I opted for the regular 8 gal Fermtank w/ the upgraded TC lid. I saved a good chunk of money and it ticked a lot of the boxes on what I was looking for. The bottom port is no good for trub dumping or yeast harvesting, but makes cleaning a breeze and with much less effort of having to tilt and dump (like regular bucket styles). The TC lid upgrade was the deciding factor for me. The 1.5" top TC port is enough for a hop bung. Delta sells one - I got it, but you have options. The lid also comes with three pre-drilled holes which are wonderful. I set it up with a gas and liquid post (w/ flat silicone gaskets), the third hole for airlock (my choice) or blow-off (included). At 2 psi I can collect samples and transfer oxygen-free with a floating dip tube connected to the liquid post - one of my biggest goals. A 000 bung/plug takes care of covering the airlock hole when applying CO2 pressure. It also has an integrated thermowell, which is perfect for the Inkbird - another box ticked.

All in all, I'm very happy with my choice. Perhaps an option for you to consider and save some coin.

Thanks much for the Jose. Very good points. I'll have to decide on yeast harvesting I guess. Buying yeast for each brew hasn't been a big expense comparatively, though I do have to ship yeast here so there would be advantages to reuse. I've read that the Delta cooling coils are a bit small for cold crashing.. but with the saved coin, I could maybe find a used upright freezer around here. People are quick to throw things away if not perfect when all they need is a bit of tinkering.

 

[Hunky]

Dunno if this may help; I'm a big fan of sankes as fermenters, but I'm also a big fan of Fermonsters. As to the 'Plastic thing'; since there was a mini-scandal over badly formulated PET water bottles back in the 90's, pretty much every regulatory agency on earth turned the spotlight on it and you won't get any contamination from modern economic marvels like fermonsters or fermzillas.
If you're gonna consider a broad range of vessels and function suitably outwieghs Bling; the poly top/bottom sankes with the straight sides are nice and lightwieght and you can buy a ready-made top;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sankeball.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2gksingle.htm
Or; You can make a nifty 'Fermhead' that can attach to just about anything;

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-fit-it-to-fermonster-sankey-whatever.704064/
The popular Flotitt fits in the neck of a sanke and if you don't wanna get a small CIP ball and pump for cleaning, you can just make a wand with a piece of copper tubing to shove up it and wash it out...no extra fittings on the keg required.
You can even look at milk cans and put one of those on it. (a milk can can hold about 3psi, so OK for O2-free transfers, but SOL on pressure fermenting)
Dunno if you've considered cross-border shopping, but a bit south of you, Goldsteam Brewing is sadly going out of business and you could contact him and maybe get a good deal on some of the remaining stock, such as this 7G Anvil:
https://goldsteam.com/shop/fermenti...d-conical-fermenters/7-gallon-anvil-crucible/
Just trying offer food for thought.

Thank you! Sheesh.. options. it isn't getting any more easy to decide. I need to do some self reflection. Part of me wants something like a Brewbuilt Uni - in fact Bobby at brewhardware is looking at refining his shipping cost for me, but also recommended a Fermzilla All Rounder. I know people like those.

So I suppose my issue is that I could afford something like a Uni - in fact my wife and I bought recently a $700 plus flour grinder as I bake sourdough bread for us. So I could probably justify spending.. the hard part is justifying the need. Perhaps it is just more than I would need, and feels a bit over the top for what I do.

As for sanke kegs, if I were to find a 1/4 barrel one as jdubdvdt uses for 5 gallon batches.. maybe that. Thinking on just a bucket like Jose uses above. Thinking on maybe a 10 gallon big mouth corny type keg or the 6.5 gallon corny with altered lid. You reminded me of milk cans.. none local so finding one might be similar to the other things.

As for Goldstream.. dang about going out of business. I would be happy to order from Canada.. bought some sail boat parts from Ontario a few years back and B.C. is right next door. I did put something in my shopping cart from them a couple days ago to test.. some fermenter I forget which, and it had the "does not ship to your address". But maybe if I contacted them, they could arrange some kind of shipping (which might be true of the others.) I put a Uni in the Morebeer cart for $649 and with shipping and sales tax (we're at 5% here), the total comes to something like $868. Doable I suppose, but do I need it?

Oi! Thanks for the "food".

​

 

[Hunky]

The current generation of conical unitanks has at least a dozen lid and body / cone ports including an 8" tri-clamp main port on the welded lid (no full-lid band clamp) and a 2" tri-clamp cone port to accept a low-watt density immersion heating element (no conical heating pad). Of course, the unitanks are jacketed (no cooling coil). Brewtools will ship a fully-jacketed (cylinder and cone) conical unitank later this year which is also fully-insulated (no neoprene jacket). I expect BrewBuilt to follow suit.

I'll keep an eye out for these updates. Thanks for the info.

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

I have a small SS from Delta and a small Anvil SS bucket. I would not buy another Anvil bucket, and I’m happy with the Delta. Okay there’s my 2 cents. I’ve read that a long soak in Starsan would get aromas out of plastic. I’ve never noticed a plastic fermenter transferring aroma to the next beer.