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It's Finally Done: My 10-tap Keezer!

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The key is getting SWMBO buy-in. Once she knew she was getting at least a punch/tea faucet (so she didn't have to make it 1 gal at a time and clog up the fridge) and a wine faucet (so she didn't have to chill, uncork, pour, etc), it became much easier to justify.

You just buying 5gal of wine at a time?
 
thank you so much for doing this...my wife thought I was crazy (i built a 4 tap and already had 2 tap kegerator), now all I gotta do is show her this thread. :D
That is an awesome thing you have created, good job!
 
I think I found a solution to the gas side tubing problem (reducing). I found a 1/4 ffl with 1/4 od tube on freshwatersystems site, part # U0420476, http://www.freshwatersystems.com/sh...ame=female-flare-connector-14-tube-x-14-flare. I'm planning on screwing these into the discharge side of my secondary regulators and then run the mcmaster carr tubing to my pin lock gas flare fitting. My problem is my cheap 3 way manifold. The outlet fittings on the ball/check valves are 5/8 barb. I dont want to spend another $45 changing out these low end valves. Does anyone know if you can replace the barb fitting that has the check valve inside with an mfl fitting with check valve? I'm wondering if I can just pull the check valve out. I dont know what type it is though. They have an o-ring on the barb fitting that goes into a recessed area on the valve.
 
I'm doubtful you can transfer the check valve, if that's what you're asking. There are several John Guest in-line check valves, but I doubt they're rated for gas applications. And I don't think they're in the Acetal Inch line, only the Speedfit line.

That John Guest fitting makes me uneasy. I don't like the idea of plastic-to-metal in that interface. Seems awfully prone to leaking.

It's $45 if you buy them from NB. I have ChiCompany locally and can pick them up for ~$8 ea. I could probably but a new 3-way manifold with these pre-installed for less than $45.

Your choice. Replacing the shutoffs is a little more expensive, but IMO, it's the right way to do it.
 
I ended up keeping the junky shut off/ check valves alone and will run a short piece of tubing from the dreaded 5/8" barb that's attached to the reg to a 5/8"barb x 1/4"nptf adapter. I got 3 from ebay for $5. Hope it works.
 
This is glorious. I mean, damn. I can really appreciate the sheer amount of thought, effort and design that went into this. I particularly like the the yeast lab vial tap handles and how tidy and efficient the entire setup is. Great work *clapping*
 
FYI Taprite has a check valve with 1/4 male flare end (Taprite P/N 6600CA) I believe I saw them in a couple of different spots for about $11+ . I am going to get those and use the JG 1/4 female flare.
 
Nice work on the JG fittings. I regret not going that route when I built my keezer. Also you have 2 more taps than I do... damn you Red Baron. :)
 
Great information! I am about to build a 4 tap keezer following @shemp 's instructions (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=517311); however, I accidentally bought a bunch of beer line that is 3/16" ID x 7/16" OD. As there are no 7/16" john guest fittings and I would imagine it would be impossible to connect this line into the 5/16" OD john guest fitting - could I go with 3/8" john guest fittings or should I return the tubing and get the tubing thadius used?

EDIT: Not sure if it would have worked or not, but I was able to cancel my order and I'm just going to go the route of the accuflex 3/16" tubing
 
Im working on my 8 tap upright, and I have a couple questions. First off, still happy with the JG fittings? How high have you had your pressure up on them? Im anticipating having some nitro stuff at 25-30psi. Second, did you just thread on the JG fittings, or did you need to use thread tape? Have you had any problems with leaking?
 
No leaking until I overtightened and cracked a fitting. No tape on my flare fittings. I taped all npt fittings. It's really, really nice.
 
I also had some problems with over-tightening the JG fittings (cracked the first two I tried in half). You can't tighten them as you can a swivel-nut. I ended up hand tightening the JG fitting as much as possible, spraying starsan over the connection and gently tightening with a wrench until the bubbles stopped. So far I haven't been able to detect any leaks, but I'm constantly worried that there are leaks. I was wondering if anyone else had a better procedure.
 
@splendidus Your procedure seems pretty solid. Last week I found my 20# CO2 tank was empty (bought from craigslist 2 months ago - told it had "just" been filled). Took off all fittings and found one of my JG fittings on my 2 way regulator had a crack in it. Now my fingers are crossed that the cracked fitting was the culprit and I don't wake up to an empty tank again.

I ordered a couple replacement 1/4" ffl x 1/4" tube fittings from freshwatersystems and saw they are not in fact John Guest Fittings, but GA Murdock "Mur-Lok" fittings - Does not say if they are rated for gas specifically; fluid @ 150psi @ 70F and 60psi @140F - so we should be good
 
resurrecting this old thread, but just wanted to give a shout out to @thadius856 for this write up. i'll be using a similar setup for my keezer and this is going to make the jockey box build a lot simpler compared to all the hose barbs, oetiker clamps, hoses, etc.
Thanks again
 
Nice build ideas in this thread (and others) that helped me build my second Keezer, moving from a 4 tap to an 11 tap.
3 gas manifolds.
1. CO2
2. Nitro
3. Beer gas
 

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