Is drilling stainless difficult?

[CidahMastah]

If you let it heat like that (while you are giving the pot hell via your drill) you are actually hardening the work, thus making any cutting harder, and potentially ruining your drill bit (or significantly dulling it). 45minutes is insane and I am surprised you didn't break the bit. Literally no more than 5-7 minutes for a 1 1/4 inch hole with plenty of rests and cooling the bit in oil dips.

Hey at least no you know

 

[user 84304]

All I can really add here is this: Don't use motor oil, for the love of all things homebrew. Remember you're gonna drink what comes out of there later. Use the veggie oil cause it's easy and you can eat it. The bonus is that the smell will make you hungry.

 

[CidahMastah]

All I can really add here is this: Don't use motor oil, for the love of all things homebrew. Remember you're gonna drink what comes out of there later. Use the veggie oil cause it's easy and you can eat it. The bonus is that the smell will make you hungry.

I disagree. As long as you clean it, I don't think it matters. I used motor oil and it worked great. I was sure to wash it very thoroughly before using and never had any issues.

I know lots of folks who have done the same and aside from that strange appendage growing out of my forehead.... no ill effects.

 

[user 84304]

Well, we'll agree to disagree, but based on my background in restaurants and kitchens, I'm going to stick with something food safe, because I don't even have to think about it.

BTW, how's that forehead arm/appendage/branch treating you? I hear those are great if you're brewing alone. Maybe hold your beer while you stir the mash?

 

[TopherM]

I used dish soap as a lube, as recommended by my buddy who owns a fabrication shop, and it worked perfectly.

 

[CanadianQuaffer]

How about drilling a 7/8" hole in an aluminum pot? Is a step bit necessary for aluminum or can I get away with a hole saw or regualr drill bit, if either is made for metal?

Cheers,

Nick

 

[outside92129]

Aluminum is very soft so any metal drill be will be fine.

 

[day_trippr]

Even on "soft" aluminum, I definitely wouldn't try it with a 7/8" twist bit. A hole saw or step bit at slow speed with steady hands would be much less likely to tear up the pot...

Cheers!

 

[fright101]

^^ true. Two flutes on a regular drill require much more control than the single flute step bit (recommended for sheetmetal) Two flutes will tend to climb the drill and end in loss of control...not to mention a possible irregular hole shape. Hole saw or step bit would work better.

 

[CidahMastah]

with the price of the HF step bits being what they are... just grab one and hedge your bet against something that is proven to work IMO

 

[megalomani]

This weekend I set out to drill some holes in my stainless and mount some weldless fittings. Used a 18V Black and Decker cordless drill.

Hole #1: Bottom of half barrel for weldless sight glass (Brewhardware).
- 1/8" titanium bit for pilot hole
- olive oil
- Small step bit from brewhardware.com

The first hole went without a hitch. The pilot hole took no time at all and the step bit made quick work of dilating to the appropriate size.

Hole #2: Upper skirt of half barrel to install eye bolt (for securing sight glass)
- same bit for pilot hole, the bit snapped in half before hardly scratching the surface.
- New cobalt 1/8" bit from lowes

Spent an hour with the new bit and couldn't get through. Best I can tell I may be about half way through the skirt. I was making no head way so gave up and went to work on my next hole.

Hole #3: Weldless ball valve on straight sided thin walled stainless pot.
- Same, now slightly worn cobalt bit from Lowes

It wouldn't go through. Again spent 30-40 minutes and couldn't get through and only got a small divot drilled. Also now have a 1" diameter dent because of the gauge of the pot and the pressure I was applying (Standing over the pot with body weight for downward pressure).

So anyone with some experience have insight why my first hole was so easy but then two subsequent tries failed miserably?

Oh I also got a new bit this morning thinking I may have dulled the bit too much and it snapped withing 10 minutes of using it and did very little before breaking.

If it work hardened is there any way to get through now (I never had smoke and the bit never felt hot when I touched it)? My drill is mostly used for hanging pictures on drywall, could I need a more powerful drill?, something with more torque or a gear box? I tried keeping the trigger about half way to keep the rpms low but have no idea how many rotations I was actually getting per minute.

 

[passedpawn]

Get a new bit.

Hard to believe it never felt hot.

 

[megalomani]

This is a double post but wasn't sure if anyone would see this question at the end of an old thread. Mods you can delete if needed.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/drilling-stainless-difficult-261976/index5.html


This weekend I set out to drill some holes in my stainless and mount some weldless fittings. Used a 18V Black and Decker cordless drill.

Hole #1: Bottom of half barrel for weldless sight glass (Brewhardware).
- 1/8" titanium bit for pilot hole
- olive oil
- Small step bit from brewhardware.com

The first hole went without a hitch. The pilot hole took no time at all and the step bit made quick work of dilating to the appropriate size.

Hole #2: Upper skirt of half barrel to install eye bolt (for securing sight glass)
- same bit for pilot hole, the bit snapped in half before hardly scratching the surface.
- New cobalt 1/8" bit from lowes

Spent an hour with the new bit and couldn't get through. Best I can tell I may be about half way through the skirt. I was making no head way so gave up and went to work on my next hole.

Hole #3: Weldless ball valve on straight sided thin walled stainless pot.
- Same, now slightly worn cobalt bit from Lowes

It wouldn't go through. Again spent 30-40 minutes and couldn't get through and only got a small divot drilled. Also now have a 1" diameter dent because of the gauge of the pot and the pressure I was applying (Standing over the pot with body weight for downward pressure).

So anyone with some experience have insight why my first hole was so easy but then two subsequent tries failed miserably?

Oh I also got a new bit this morning thinking I may have dulled the bit too much and it snapped withing 10 minutes of using it and did very little before breaking.

If it work hardened is there any way to get through now (I never had smoke and the bit never felt hot when I touched it)? My drill is mostly used for hanging pictures on drywall, could I need a more powerful drill?, something with more torque or a gear box? I tried keeping the trigger about half way to keep the rpms low but have no idea how many rotations I was actually getting per minute.

Thanks for any thoughts/advise

 

[samc]

I've noticed that with my cordless drill and a fresh hi-speed bit I can make quick work of a pilot hole. Once the bit gets worn and the battery fades I switch to a corded 1/2" drill and it goes pretty easily. Not sure why I don't start with the right drill in the first place. Low speed and lots of pressure with oil makes it work best.

 

[3PegBrew]

I have the same drill. Orange black and decker power drill. I have drilled holes through stainless steel more times than I can count. Where are you buying your bits? Or brand? I bought a basic set of bits at Menards 6 or 7 years ago and have only broken one bit on stainless (about 4 months ago) because the bit was too small and I pressed too hard.

 

[bruin_ale]

Get a new bit.

Hard to believe it never felt hot.

I agree.. olive oil has a very low smoking point, are you sure you never saw smoke? I used veggie oil for my first few, before I was able to find actual cutting oil. The veggie oil smelled like french fries when the bit was getting too hot.

 

[bruin_ale]

Also, if you're snapping bits you're pressing way too hard.. get a new (sharp) bit, keep it lubed, and don't press so hard. The pilot holes were the easiest part, reaming them out with the step bit was a much bigger deal (for the big heating element holes I had to do).

 

[megalomani]

The Dewalt bit still hasnt snapped. Just not sure if it still has an edge to cut through. The two that broke were not brands I know or remember off hand.

When I use full pressure I don't even get metal dust in the oil any more. Maybe a little black specs, but doesn't seem like its cutting.

 

[megalomani]

Also, if you're snapping bits you're pressing way too hard.. get a new (sharp) bit, keep it lubed, and don't press so hard. The pilot holes were the easiest part, reaming them out with the step bit was a much bigger deal (for the big heating element holes I had to do).

Thanks, was begining to think I had too much pressure glad someone confirmed that thought. Didn't see any smoke but was drilling SLOW and taking lots of breaks. Will try again next week with a fresh bit.

 

[TenTwentyThree]

Stainless is hard on drill bits. I use a low speed high tork dewalt drill. I start with a small pilot hole and slowly keep increasing drill bit sizes untill i run out of sizes and have to use my step bit. I also use this stuff called boelube i get from work on my drill bits it makes them cut easier and keeps them sharp longer. I also take breaks to let the step bit cool. the hotter they get the faster they dull.

 

[kladue]

Slow, high pressure, and keeping cutting area cool are the requirements for successful stainless drilling. Water works as well as anything if flowing over drill site to carry away heat from cut area, once the stainless heats up too much it hardens and all bets are off trying to continue to drill opening. For hole saws I use Ocello sponge inside and soak it with a water base coolant, liquid thrown out during cut keeps cut area cool enough to prevent work hardening. If you had help, a spray bottle of water will work wonders while drilling stainless, constant spray of water into cut area will control heat, if you see steam, stop and cool the work down before trying again.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Well I have no idea exactly what you're doing, but i used a cheapo drill bit set from Harbor Freight and I had the first hole drilled in about 10 minutes. The first bit I had was bull (I think it was 1/8") so I stepped up to 9/64 (the next one up). I stepped up 1/8" at a time and 20 minutes later the keg was drilled through.

Installed a bargainfitting fitting, tested it, no leak.

I used WD40 for the lubricant. Worked fine.

MC

 

[Stauffbier]

I had no problems at all drilling the hole in my keg. I started with a 5/32 drill, then a 1/2 drill, and then I used my step drill up to 7/8.. I used corn oil, and it DID smell like french fries like bruin said.. I'd say the whole process took me about 5 minutes at the most.

 

[jcaudill]

I just did a small hole today with a Dewalt Cordless Drill... used a titanium bit for a pilot hole and Irwin Speedbor to step up. I used Dawn as a lubricant and all worked brilliantly. Like many have said - the key is pressure and low RPM's.

 

[JRems]

Pressure, Very slow rpm, and a good bit is all you need. Even titanium isn't that great, cobalt will work better. Cutting through a keg shouldn't need any oil. It's very thin, with a good drill bit it should not even heat up by the time it's through. I use a very good 1/2" bit to cut the initial hole. It takes less than 30 seconds. Then I use the harbor freight punch set. The punches work great, after a couple holes they do get a little dull, just use a flat file on the edges until they are straight and flat again.

 

[hyperboarder]

I'm working on drilling the stainless Insinkerator sink trim for a hop spider with no luck. Plenty slow, WD40, never even got hot to the touch, but after 15-20 minutes, no dice. My only thought is a dull bit, it's a semi-old 1/4" Blu Mol but still sharp. The trim is a bit thick, but I'm at a loss. Ideas?

 

[TaylorBrewed]

My personal experience from drilling the 3 holes(ball valve,thermometer,sight glass) in my biab kettle with a 50 dollar step bit from lowes, and some lube.

1st hole- 10-15 mins
2nd hole- 35-45 mins
3rd hole- 1-1.5 hours

I dont know what it was maybe the step bit getting dull. But my drill was basicly on fire and the bit was melting the stainless steel. I put a whole lot of ass into it. I personaly understand why some people purchase their kettles pre drilled. But after buying everything seperatly and saving like 150 dollar I would do it again.

 

[passedpawn]

If you get the metal really hot you'll work-harden it and it becomes infinitely harder to cut. It's been said many times but bears repeating: SLOW, KEEP IT COOL. Oil, water, whatever, just keep it cool.

 

[megalomani]

Got the holes drilled today. A new drill made all the difference. The b&d battery cell was shot. I was actually drilling too SLOW previously. With my limited experience with drills and reading people saying to go slow, I way under shot. The new drill was set on slow rpm but that speed was still much faster than the old one with a croaking battery. Bye bye cordless. Went through like butter today.

 

[jcaudill]

I'm glad you got the holes drilled but just so we don't confuse future readers - there is no problem with using a cordless drill - you just need a good one that is capable of drilling very slow while under a lot of pressure. Dewalts are up to that task for sure and that is what I've used to drill hundreds of holes from 1/8 up to 2 1/8" without any issues. You really do have to go very slow with stainless because if you go fast and harden it you're going to have a long day. Good example of just how slow is with the 2 1/8" hole saw, 87 rpm is recommended - 87!! Oh and cutting oil - if you like your bits that is!!! Sprayon makes a NSF certified cutting oil that I'd highly recommend.