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Just googled inverted rims and can't find any info. Can you explain how this works?


Made the acronym up. I use 1" stainless pipe. You would too. Go to Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N41CX70/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These are 120v 300w heaters, I have a mix of these and others. These are grouped by 2 and wired in series for 240v

Get a price of 1" stainless pipe like at Brewers Hardware. Instal. Wrap with some header insulation and there you go.
 
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Great idea, genius even. How many are you using and (assuming they're driven by a PID/relay), at what rate can they adjust fluid temps?
 
Please get us some performance numbers when you can. I'd like to see how quickly it raises 10 galllons from 150 to 160F.

Where did you get the pipe? I think it would be cool to get it with triclovers on the end. I bet one of the online guys (brew/brewer's hardware, still dragon) will have it.

I like this because I don't have to mess with flow switches. I think I'd put a thermal switch on the pipe though, just to make sure it stays under 212.
 
Great idea, genius even. How many are you using and (assuming they're driven by a PID/relay), at what rate can they adjust fluid temps?


Using the ones posted, you would need 15, I have 6 of them and a bunch of others I got on eBay. So 4500 watts. You could go more or less. At 5 gpm I can do .75 to 1.0 deg per min. That's with water in the MLT. With grain it all depends on the grain bill.

I have it on a SCR driven by a PID loop on my PLC.

I split a 4" piece of PVC pipe to act as a splash guard/ burn shield. It also protects the wiring too.
 
Here is some more detail and links

Here is the pipe I used, they are on all four of my risers. Doesn't have to be that long, yes its 1" tri clamp.

https://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Style-Extension-Tube-36-OAL.html

The band heaters can be found on Amazon or Ebay.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=1"+band+heaters

Header wrap will help insulate the outside of the heaters to prevent a nasty burn and keep the heat that might be lost to radiation from escaping thus increasing efficiency.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R4U7G4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I used a 4" dia 24" long piece of PVC split with a circular saw and clamped together with hose clamps to make a splash guard/ wiring protector.

Im also thinking of getting some rock wool insulation and wrapping the heaters before I put the PVC on again.

On my system I use a flowmeter to disable the PID loop if the flow goes below .5gpm to protect the wort and the heaters. You could use a flow switch too.

Whats great about this is there is a large fudge factor before you damage your wort. Also you can make it as large as you want.

As stated before: Im getting .75 to 1.0 deg per min at 4500w with 5gpm and 14 gallons in the MLT. Normal flowrates of 1gpm are more of what you will see flowing through a grain bed, so the rate of rise will be greater, I just havent measured it.
 
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Fantastic design. What is also great about it is that you increase the thermal mass of the heaters. They dump a lot of heat into the pipe which will take time to heat up or cool down. This will help the PID manage with less than optimal tuning.

Besides benefits above, should also make for simpler piping, etc.

I wanted to knock this when I first saw it posted, but I am honestly smacking myself in the head, asking, "why didn't I think of that?!?"

-BD
 
Really like this idea, was not aware of the band heaters before this post, which look to be pretty cool. I have a couple of questions:

What is the hottest you can heat the tube in this configuration? Is overheating a concern?

I'm wondering if something that would fit in a 2000w power budget would be effective, would you by chance be willing/able to test that by disconnecting some of the heaters?

can you post some additional pictures? I'm curious about how you closed off the ends of the PVC enclosure.
 
People, including me, have used thermal wires wrapped around tubing and pipe. External RIMS. The beauty is the element never touches the wort (no scorching, less cleaning) It works pretty well but efficiency is an issue. Let us know what sort of efficiency you get. what temp increase per minute you see for a given volume of water.
 
Is there an issue with isolating the temperature measurement at the output of the IRIMS(TM) given that the tube would transfer heat? Do RTD probes have insulation between the probe and the mounting threads ?

I've stalled out on my electric conversion presently - too many hobbies - where do you get all of your motivation ?

I have a MTS level measurement I want to integrate to measure fluid height above grain bed. Is there a float that will the hold the "ring" ?

Thanks in advance ! you're an inspiration.
 
Is there an issue with isolating the temperature measurement at the output of the IRIMS(TM) given that the tube would transfer heat? Do RTD probes have insulation between the probe and the mounting threads ?

Seems to me that it wouldn't be much different than any other RIMS assembly. The tube, heating elements, and wort will all conduct the heat and aren't going to have more than a minor temperature variation between them.
 
Yes, very true. but the equipment/form factor and performance is more akin to a rims setup, especially since the herms tank is usually double duty as the HLT. I've never used HERMS but I'd guess that rims is more responsive/heats more quickly. External wire is going to perform closer to rims than herms.
 
Yes, very true. but the equipment/form factor and performance is more akin to a rims setup, especially since the herms tank is usually double duty as the HLT. I've never used HERMS but I'd guess that rims is more responsive/heats more quickly. External wire is going to perform closer to rims than herms.

Remember, HERMS (Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System) is a type of RIMS(Rercirculating Infusion Mash System).
 
I've never used HERMS but I'd guess that rims is more responsive/heats more quickly.
Not necessarily. Depends on how both are designed. Both can be made to be responsive. There are pluses and minuses that every brewer needs to weigh themselves before deciding on one vs the other (neither is automatically "better"). I wrote an article a couple of months ago to explain why I chose HERMS for my design if you're curious. See here. Brewers shouldn't use my needs/requirements as their own however.

Kal
 
Remember, HERMS (Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System) is a type of RIMS(Rercirculating Infusion Mash System).


Then everything is HERMS. These acronyms are far from what you would put on a product but give guys a way to explain it.

I call it IRIMS, so be it. Call it whatever you want, it works much faster than HERMS ( I originally had it and didn't work fast enough for me) In the spirit of homebrew acronyms it's closer to RIMS. As a vet and someone who has stayed in jobs where acronyms where what we spoke, I guess I could do better.

Mash Recirculating Line External Band Step Heater. MRLEBSH
 
Then everything is HERMS. These acronyms are far from what you would put on a product but give guys a way to explain it.

I call it IRIMS, so be it. Call it whatever you want, it works much faster than HERMS ( I originally had it and didn't work fast enough for me) In the spirit of homebrew acronyms it's closer to RIMS. As a vet and someone who has stayed in jobs where acronyms where what we spoke, I guess I could do better.

Mash Recirculating Line External Band Step Heater. MRLEBSH

How about Mash Recirculation Heated by Electric Resistive Bands/Straps. MR. HERBS
 
What are benefits of this system over a normal RIMS system. Seems as if cost are similar considering the quantity of elements needed. Very interesting design, congratulations on your genius!
 
What are benefits of this system over a normal RIMS system. Seems as if cost are similar considering the quantity of elements needed. Very interesting design, congratulations on your genius!

Advantages i see:
*very low effective watt density as the heat is transferred via the pipe
*easier cleanup as wort does not touch a heating element, just the inside of the pipe
 
Less chit chat and more testing to tell us what sort of *F/min you get out of this setup for a typical mash volume.

:)
 
Less chit chat and more testing to tell us what sort of *F/min you get out of this setup for a typical mash volume.



:)


I'm getting .5 to 1 deg per min with a 1.5:1 and about 20lbs of grain in a .5bbl keg. At 1gpm.

That's to the top of the bed, it takes about 5-10 min for the bed to equalize.

I have several RTD's glued to the wall of the MLT. Some times it's too much info as I never thought my mash was that unbalanced.

As a matter of fact I had to put a fine tuning slider on my HMI to prevent a huge swing( tweaks the SP). I know my loop should take care of it, but with different grain bills and such, the loop would always be unstable. Maybe I should load 20lbs at 1.5:1 and tune my loop?
 
Sorry for derailing guys...

I'm certainly interested to hear how this works. It takes the best of both RIMS and HERMS and combines them.

Kal
 
Advantages i see:
*very low effective watt density as the heat is transferred via the pipe
*easier cleanup as wort does not touch a heating element, just the inside of the pipe

Interesting TallDan
Makes sense, guess I was on the $ thought process. Sounds like good idea to not have element in the wort.
Thought of another thing, if you loose a element, no big deal but in traditional rim if you loose THE element you have a problem.
I'll have to check this out instead of rims I was planning.
Thanks for trying new ideas.
Oops, sorry trimixdiver1, gave the design thanks to the wrong poster!
 
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Here is some more detail and links

Here is the pipe I used, they are on all four of my risers. Doesn't have to be that long, yes its 1" tri clamp.

https://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tr...be-36-OAL.html

What are you describing as "risers"?
 
The vertical 36" sections of pipe that go from both 3 way valves. HLT recirc, HLT to MLT sparge, MLT recirc and MLT lauter to BK.
 
Trimix, will those band heaters tolerate being dry fired when installed? Just wondering if the tube could be pre-heated a bit in order to keep it from cooling the mash initially.

Thanks for a pretty sweet idea.
 
Trimix, will those band heaters tolerate being dry fired when installed? Just wondering if the tube could be pre-heated a bit in order to keep it from cooling the mash initially.

Thanks for a pretty sweet idea.


I would make sure the pipe has liquid in it.
 

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