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Really no need to use finings in a lager since lagers by definition, are supposed to lager. Lagering takes time. Time and cold = clear beer.
Time works equally well on Ales.
 
It shouldn't take more than 1-2 weeks of cold conditioning to produce very clear beer, without using any cold-side finings. The only exception here is if you are using a very low flocculating yeast.

If it takes your beer more than 1 or 2 weeks to drop clear, even when using a yeast like 2124, you should 1) try to get clearer wort into the fermenter with more complete cold and hot break removal and 2) make sure you're not overlooking any fermentation or yeast health issues.

Using most of the commonly available lager yeasts, e.g. 2124 or 2206 or similar, you should be able to go grain to glass with very clear beer in 21 days.
 
Really no need to use finings in a lager since lagers by definition, are supposed to lager. Lagering takes time. Time and cold = clear beer.
Time works equally well on Ales.

I prefer to have a one month long pipeline vs. a three month long one, so I will continue to fine my less hoppy beers. I also do a fast lager process when fermenting lagers, and burst carbonate my kegs. My senses of taste and smell are compromised by sinus issues, so flavor subtleties are lost on me anyway. I do try to keep improving my cold side O2 control.

Brew on :mug:

ps. Love your sig line.
 
TBH a lot of this doesn't seem very scientific. Like how does a lid being partially on during boil limit O2 contact? Not that I'm saying the general principles aren't correct. I definitely wouldn't go adding that much sulphite to non lagers though. I will try this at some point. Definitely found huge improvements in hoppy stuff by going manic on post ferm O2 elimination.
 
TBH a lot of this doesn't seem very scientific. Like how does a lid being partially on during boil limit O2 contact?

You're correct, it doesn't. But that isn't the intent. What a partially-on lid does do is allow you to greatly reduced your boil off by reducing the amount of heat input needed to maintain a boil. We're shooting for 6-8% boil off rates of the starting volume. This reduces thermal stress on the wort.

For more information you might mosey over to lowoxygenbrewing.com.
 
I prefer to have a one month long pipeline vs. a three month long one, so I will continue to fine my less hoppy beers. I also do a fast lager process when fermenting lagers, and burst carbonate my kegs. My senses of taste and smell are compromised by sinus issues, so flavor subtleties are lost on me anyway. I do try to keep improving my cold side O2 control.

Brew on :mug:

ps. Love your sig line.
I seen this on the morebeer site, seem like it might work for adding gelatin.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/brewkeg-dosing-device.html

I think you might be able to do the same thing with a small soda bottle with a carbonation cap and two disconnects.
 
I seen this on the morebeer site, seem like it might work for adding gelatin.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/brewkeg-dosing-device.html

I think you might be able to do the same thing with a small soda bottle with a carbonation cap and two disconnects.

It's definitely possible to inject stuff into a pressurized keg using a soda bottle with a carbonation cap and two disconnects. I've done it a few times. You just overpressurize the soda bottle, so if your keg is at 12psi, have the soda bottle be at 20 or something.
The only problem I'm aware of is that you'll be introducing some O2.
 
gelatin fining is incompatible with low oxygen methods because you are introducing oxygen to finished wort when you do it.

besides, there are other ways to achieve crystal clear wort.
 
I seen this on the morebeer site, seem like it might work for adding gelatin.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/brewkeg-dosing-device.html

I think you might be able to do the same thing with a small soda bottle with a carbonation cap and two disconnects.

I’m not doing strict LoDo, but following most post-boil recommended practices. I don’t usually use gelatin if I can avoid it, but when I do, I’ve used a large 100ml syringe to inject it through the PRV of the keg while keeping low CO2 pressure (2-3psi) going through the gas in post.
 
I’m not doing strict LoDo, but following most post-boil recommended practices. I don’t usually use gelatin if I can avoid it, but when I do, I’ve used a large 100ml syringe to inject it through the PRV of the keg while keeping low CO2 pressure (2-3psi) going through the gas in post.
That's the exact same method that I have settled on.

Brew on :mug:
 
That's the exact same method that I have settled on.

Brew on :mug:
Interesting thought: boil water, dissolve gelatin while cooling some under a CO2 blanket to prevent O2 uptake, then transfer to the syringe to further seal out O2 before injection. I'd love to see how well that procedure would prevent O2 uptake. I cooled under a CO2 blanket when adding priming sugar last time with that thought in mind, but I hadn't thought about the big syringe from the O2 perspective, only as a delivery device
 
When I do use finings, I've done the soda bottle method and purge both the bottle and the jumpers like hell. I also boil and cool the water to reduce o2 in the water.

It definitely introduces SOME oxygen but nothing that I've been able to notice
 
gelatin fining is incompatible with low oxygen methods because you are introducing oxygen to finished wort when you do it.

besides, there are other ways to achieve crystal clear wort.

Plus gelatin coats my teeth. I do not use it ever. One of those things I’ve tried and didn’t like. Just me I guess.
 
The best deterrent for the use of gelatin is to heat some up in a covered container then uncover and smell the aroma coming from the jar.

I have become a little more patient after I got a good whiff once. Smell like what is stuck in cow hooves.
 
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