Installing Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra 3/16

[zachattack]

My point is you should be CHILLING the barb to make is contract. Heat should only be applied to the tubing to expand and relax it... Heating the barb does not make things slide easier. Lubricating it with keg lube while it's ice cold would. But then you have to make sure the keg lube doesn't let it release later on.

Folks should put the barb connections in the freezer for a day or two and heat the tubing. Same principles utilized to remove pressed bearings or insert them.

Yeah I don't think that would work at all. Heating the fitting makes it much easier, if the barb were ice cold it would instantly cool the plastic and make it set, defeating the purpose of heating it.

The heat isn't about heating or expanding things, it's about making the plastic hot enough to deform/stretch a little.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Quick question that I never saw answered in this thread; when you use the JohnGuest fittings in the shank, do you need a neoprene washer too (like with using a tailpiece)?

Thanks.

 

[day_trippr]

It's a flare fitting, so it depends on an o-ring or gasket...

Cheers!

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Shanks are not flare fittings... Not that I was ever aware of. And it is the shank to JG fitting I am curious about. There was a brief mention of not needing a gasket, or one the JG coming with one built in.

So, just looking to confirm the JG to shank connection.

 

[thadius856]

There is no need for a gasket between the John Guest 5/8" BSPP fitting and the shank. Never had one leak, and I have 10 of them installed.

Tighten to about 12 ft-lb (approx. pulling the wrench around moderate force using one finger) when installing and you'll never see a leak.

Shanks are not flare fittings, BTW. Even on flare fittings, a nylon washer is not required. You need nylon washers only with metal-to-metal flare connections, not with metal-to-plastic, as the plastic will deform slightly and create its own. I have over 50 flare connections in my setup, and none of them leak.

 

[milldoggy]

They are plastic and seal fine to disconnects that have the little black tip on them

 

[day_trippr]

Shanks are not flare fittings... Not that I was ever aware of.[...]

Shanks and tail pieces work the same as any flare fitting in that a gasket or o-ring is required to seal the mating faces and the threads are non-sealing. The JG push-to-connect fitting for connecting Bev Seal Ultra beer line provides the required o-ring. At least the literature says there's a nitrile o-ring in there...

Cheers!

 

[BirdmanBrewingCo]

Shanks are not flare fittings... Not that I was ever aware of. And it is the shank to JG fitting I am curious about. There was a brief mention of not needing a gasket, or one the JG coming with one built in.

So, just looking to confirm the JG to shank connection.

All you need is one of these to connect your shank to the tubing: http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

And at the other end of the tubing to connect to a threaded keg quick disconnect: http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

You don't need any other parts, gaskets, etc.

 

[kmenard]

how 'not flexible' is the line? My lines have to make a couple 90 degree turns to get from the keezer to the taps.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Just guestimating here, but I'd say that maybe a 3" radius is about as tight as you can get it. Even that may be a bit ambitious.

You should be able to use 90° elbows to make tighter turns, though.

 

[Zzyzx3]

All you need is one of these to connect your shank to the tubing: http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/



And at the other end of the tubing to connect to a threaded keg quick disconnect: http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/



You don't need any other parts, gaskets, etc.

I just bought a couple of these from Birdman and they work great with the Bev-seal tubing. I originally had the normal tailpiece barbs and got them to work, but it was still a bit of a pain to get them on the barbs. These fittings make it ridiculously easy and convenient.

 

[BirdmanBrewingCo]

Here's a short video to show how easy it is with the parts referenced above by Zzyzx3:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0dPgHwfeI8"][YOUTUBE]K0dPgHwfeI8[/YOUTUBE]K0dPgHwfeI8[/ame]

 

[fubar32]

The John Guest fittings work nicely for the keg side and for a faucet/shank setup, but is there an easy way to connect in a tower setup?

 

[day_trippr]

Has anyone ever mentioned that what's being sold as 3/16" Bev Seal Ultra Series 235 beer line is actually 1/5" ID? Which explains most of why it needs to be much longer than a straight PVC line that actually is 3/16" ID?

Just wondering, can't remember...

Cheers!

 

[HOPtuary]

So I got my lines all installed last night. First I tried using the boil method with the nail punch previously talked about and it worked alright. Later in the night I tried using a heat gun (on the LOW setting) and using the punch again. This method worked in about 1/4 of the time and definitely saved my finger tips a lot of pain. Going to clean the lines tonight and get the beer flowing again.

 

[Callacave]

A little off topic, but thought it might be a good place for this info from my personal experience...

Switched from Bevlex Ultra to EJ, and as far as flavor impact I initially thought the EJ lines were just as good. Now I'm having second thoughts. Pulled about 5 oz from the line that has been sitting for 24 hours, and then pulled another 5 oz from the same tap. I could taste a difference.

I wouldn't call it a plastic taste. Maybe some slight oxidation? Flavor and aroma seemed dull compared to the second pull.

I think I might be going back to my Bevlex with my John Guest fittings. Never had an issue with flavor or aroma. I think these lines are the least permeable to oxygen. The only issue is the amount of line you need to get a proper pour, and I also find if you don't cut the ends square it can create a nucleation sight for co2 to break out in John Guest fittings.

 

[The_Bishop]

How do you go about using these lines if you have a tower with 90* tailpieces?

Heat and squeeze it on? I assume there's no John Guest fittings for that.

 

[HOPtuary]

How do you go about using these lines if you have a tower with 90* tailpieces?

Heat and squeeze it on? I assume there's no John Guest fittings for that.

I would recommend using the heat gun and a nail punch to expand from the inside of the hose and slide the 90* tailpiece right in. It worked the easiest for me when i was installing them on normal tailpieces.

 

[milldoggy]

90 fittings are made, but so hard to find. There was a hbt member with a connection to the manufacturing company and he could get any size and type.

 

[The_Bishop]

My shanks have the 90* fitting soldered in. I guess when I make the switch I'll be using the heat/punch method.

 

[The_Bishop]

So, as a belated followup, I have the tubing on the way and the John Guest fittings for the MFL on the keg side. What is everyone using for clamps on this stuff? I'll need to clamp on the tailpiece of my tower fittings.

 

[milldoggy]

Oklier clamps

 

[The_Bishop]

Ok, what size Oetiker clamp?

 

[Rev2010]

Ok, what size Oetiker clamp?

Was trying to Google and find the place I ordered mine from (I don't use this tubing however, was just looking to be helpful as they had the full listing). Didn't find the site I ordered from but found this which might be helpful. If not, my apologies :

When using our SuperFlex Beverage & Gas Hose use the following clamps:
3/16"id -7/16"od with 3/16" fitting = #11.3
3/16"id - 7/16"od with 1/4" fitting = #13.3
1/4"id - 1/2" od with 1/4" fitting = #13.3
5/16"id - 9/16" od with 5/16" fitting = #15.7
5/16"id - 9/16" od with 3/8" fitting = #17

When using our Bev-Seal Ultra Beverage hose, use the following clamps:

3/16"id - 5/16"od with 1/4" fitting = #9.5
1/4"id - 3/8" with 1/4" fitting = #12.3

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php...=86_88&zenid=eefd3418267920207685f4aa6751ab63


Rev.

 

[milldoggy]

I ordered a slew when I did mine and used the one that fit. Make sure to get the ones that are stepless

 

[moleary33]

Hey sorry for digging in the old thread but is there a way to remove the fittings once you connect the line or do you have to order new fittings each time? I am just wondering as typically i would set the line up and shorten as necessary but it seems like once the push to connect fittings are on you cant remove them?

 

[LLBeanJ]

Yes, you can easily separate the tubing from the fittings.

 

[moleary33]

How? is it just a matter of pulling it through the fitting in the direction you pushed it on. It seems the hole on the other is too small to go through. Sorry if this seems like a silly question just dont want to connect and find out its locked on

 

[moleary33]

Never mind i just tested yep it works so long as i have the little grey piece in

 

[Theheadsn]

Bought this tubing right off the bat when I built my keezer so I cant attest on how much better it is then other tubing. What I can say is using this with the John Guest fittings makes installing and uninstalling a breeze. If its to clean or just to move stuff around, its nice to not have to cut or pry anything off. I wish I could have everything off quick disconnects.