Installing Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra 3/16

[The_Bishop]

I like the tubing, it's just the lengths needed are a pain. I'm actually considering moving to a different line just to cut down the keezer clutter.

 

[thadius856]

I like the tubing, it's just the lengths needed are a pain. I'm actually considering moving to a different line just to cut down the keezer clutter.

But you can! All of my gas fittings are John Guest/MFL as well.

 

[Theheadsn]

I like the tubing, it's just the lengths needed are a pain. I'm actually considering moving to a different line just to cut down the keezer clutter.

Ya idk what people are saying when you need anymore then 15 feet per keg line with this tubing. Depending on how cold your beer is and how many psi you are running, it should only need to be anywhere from 10' to 15' of line. You can go longer, but you'll just end up with a slower pour.

 

[thadius856]

Anything less than 20' and my wheat beer pours turn foamy. I prefer to not swap lines constantly, since it's messy If they're not completely empty.

 

[The_Bishop]

Well, today I tackled the mess of tubing in my keezer. Coiled the lines up and zip tied them, then fastened them to the lid, leaving just enough loose to reach the kegs when the lid is open. Swapped out my gas lines, too. 5/16 just isn't needed, so my gas lines are now 1/4" polyurethane, which is a *lot* easier to deal with and is much more flexible when cold.

My beer lines are around 13 feet long. I've been debating on shortening them another foot.

With everything coiled up and fastened out of the way, it's a lot neater and more airflow friendly.

On a sad note, my ESB is nearly empty and the Kolsch that's going to replace it is a few days out still. The chocolate stout doesn't have much life left, either, so I'm planning on brewing a caribou slobber to replace it. I need to get brewing, the pipeline is starting to get a little dry.

 

[BrewdogSC]

I just finished doing an install on my new 7 tap kegerator and thought I would share the method I found worked super easy.

Get a long punch with a very slight taper. I suggest getting a new one so it does not have any imperfections from pevious use that will damage the barrier on the inside of the tubing. Heat the punch not the tubing with a heat gun. It does not need to be all that hot. Once the punch is hot insert it into the tubing it will expand very easy. Pull out the punch and insert 1/4 barbed fitting immediately. It will shrink as it cools and it happens quickly. You end up with a fully inserted barbed fitting without any distortion to the tubing.

Thanks for the tip!!! I have an old brass tap tower and could not find any John Guest fitting to use on the taps, used your method with an awl heated with the heat gun, worked like a charm.

 

[fosaisu]

Has anyone ever mentioned that what's being sold as 3/16" Bev Seal Ultra Series 235 beer line is actually 1/5" ID? Which explains most of why it needs to be much longer than a straight PVC line that actually is 3/16" ID?

Just to clarify, it appears that the Accuflex being sold by Birdman and others actually is 3/16" ID (or very close to it) but that Accuflex has incorrect information on its website. See discussion between day_trippr and jsguitar at the bottom of this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=506364

 

[Scriv]

Question on the John Guest fittings, how tight do you go? I'm known to be a bit heavy handed with a wrench, and I don't want to strip these out. I'm thinking finger tight then 1/4 turn but I wanted to ask first.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Scriv, that is a good plan of action. I did the same thing myself, and it worked well.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Question on the John Guest fittings, how tight do you go? I'm known to be a bit heavy handed with a wrench, and I don't want to strip these out. I'm thinking finger tight then 1/4 turn but I wanted to ask first.

Yeah, this sounds about right.

 

[Scriv]

13 psi and 3 ft? That shouldn't even work with vinyl lines.

BevSeal has a lower line restriction rate than vinyl, about half actually, because of the inner coating.

I find I need 25-30' of 3/16" ID BevSeal to balance 13 psi with a <2' rise.

Yikes, I was planning to run 12' lines, maybe I'll be rethinking that! Luckily this stuff is reasonably priced.

Also, for those interested I've found a 1/4 tubing by female 1/4 flare fitting to plumb my co2 side with these John Guest style fittings. It's made by Parker and the part number is A4FF4-MG.

 

[macminn18]

I'm having a hard time finding a John Guest fitting for the gas side on my keg. It should be an 1/4"mfl to 1/4" push to connect, for 5/16" tubing, or am I calculating wrong?

 

[Scriv]

I'm having a hard time finding a John Guest fitting for the gas side on my keg. It should be an 1/4"mfl to 1/4" push to connect, for 5/16" tubing, or am I calculating wrong?

If you're using 5/16 tubing you'll need 1/4 female flare by 5/16 push. John Guest part number PM4508F4S.

 

[tennesseean_87]

Just to put this out there, another implement that can be used to flare out the warmed tubing is a large knitting needle. They are nice and smooth since the yarn is supposed to slip over them. I have been plumbing my setup and used JG fittings for the disconnects, but needed to get the hose over barbs in my tower.