In search of Scottishness

[beerisyummy]

I just finished Greg Noonan's book, Scotch Ale. Here are my takeaways for home brewing Scottish style ales.

1. Soft water preferred
2. High mash temperature
3. 90 minute boil (kettle caramelization preferred to crystal malts)
4. Cool, patient fermentation
5. Under-attenuative (Scottish) yeast, large pitch for cool ferm temp
6. High SG and high FG
7. Small amount (5% or less) roast barley in the grain bill
8. No hop aroma, little flavor, moderate bitterness (i. e. 60 min hops only)
9. Plenty of conditioning time (a few months) in the bottle, longer (6-12 months) for stronger brews

Just for the record, I brew BIAB usually with a dunk-sparge.

Comments?

 

[Cheshire Cat]

It’s either Scottish Ale or Scot’s Ale, Scotch is Whisky. I not sure a Scottish style ale exists there are a lot of Scottish breweries brewing different styles in my experience. For example there’s 60/- to Wee Heavy , 3.2% to 7%+ and all between.

 

[worlddivides]

It’s either Scottish Ale or Scot’s Ale, Scotch is Whisky. I not sure a Scottish style ale exists there are a lot of Scottish breweries brewing different styles in my experience. For example there’s 60/- to Wee Heavy , 3.2% to 7%+ and all between.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_Ale

It's also worth noting that the "Scotch" in "Scotch whisk(e)y" just means "Scottish."

 

[lumpher]

It’s either Scottish Ale or Scot’s Ale, Scotch is Whisky. I not sure a Scottish style ale exists there are a lot of Scottish breweries brewing different styles in my experience. For example there’s 60/- to Wee Heavy , 3.2% to 7%+ and all between.

The book is called "Scotch Ale", and is part of the Classic Beer Style Series. The term usually refers to a Strong Scotch Ale, BJCP 9E, or Wee Heavy, 17C.

OP, that looks like a fairly comprehensive list of notes. You can also add "No peat" to your list. In some cases smoked malt has been used, but that's a modern addition, not in the classic version.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Called Scotch Ale by the American BJCP not the Scots.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_Ale

It's also worth noting that the "Scotch" in "Scotch whisk(e)y" just means "Scottish."

I know but people from Scotland like my grandson, son in law and my mother in law are either Scots or Scottish never Scotch.

 

[worlddivides]

I know but people from Scotland like my grandson, son in law and my mother in law are either Scots or Scottish never Scotch.

Yes. But that's because English has changed over time so that "Scotch" changed into "Scottish," but it kept being used for "Scotch whisky" and "Scotch ale." In the 1500s, "Scotch" was the word for things and people from Scotland, but by the 1700s, it had changed to "Scottish." Scotch still gets uses for some of these "traditional" drinks.

 

[hottpeper13]

If your in laws were sitting on the break water wall on lake Michigan they would be Scotch on the rocks.

 

[dmtaylor]

I just finished Greg Noonan's book, Scotch Ale. Here are my takeaways for home brewing Scottish style ales.

1. Soft water preferred
2. High mash temperature
3. 90 minute boil (kettle caramelization preferred to crystal malts)
4. Cool, patient fermentation
5. Under-attenuative (Scottish) yeast, large pitch for cool ferm temp
6. High SG and high FG
7. Small amount (5% or less) roast barley in the grain bill
8. No hop aroma, little flavor, moderate bitterness (i. e. 60 min hops only)
9. Plenty of conditioning time (a few months) in the bottle, longer (6-12 months) for stronger brews

Just for the record, I brew BIAB usually with a dunk-sparge.

Comments?

Noonan is dead. Smart dude, but some things have changed. Here are my opinions based on things I have learned:

1. A little gypsum doesn't hurt. Can help balance, adding dryness and "bitterness" in addition to or instead of hops.
2. High mash temperature is appropriate as long as you're talking about like 155-156 F high, not >158 F high.
3. Kettle caramelization is baloney unless you boil for 3-4 hours... which could be done, but not traditional.
4. Cool fermentation is appropriate.
5. Experiment with different Scottish yeasts to find the one you prefer -- the two main ones (derived from WLP028 and 1728) are quite different. When you find the right one and fermentation goes properly, you might occasionally taste smoky phenol in the finished beer. This is rare and fleeting but if you ever detect it, it's appropriate and it's from the yeast, not from malt.
6. SG and FG depend on whether you want a session beer or a wee heavy. Either super low or super high is the standard. 5-6% ABV Scottish ales seem great but are less traditional.
7. Small amount of roast barley is appropriate.
8. No hop aroma, no flavor, low bitterness (60 minutes only).
9. Long conditioning time is nice but not necessary

10. Consider using Golden Promise or Maris Otter, but maybe cut it 50% with a mild non-UK pale 2-row so that it doesn't turn out overly toasty or nutty.

Bottom line: Traditional Scottish ales are driven by malt, slightly less so by yeast, and always low on hops. They're either wacky strong (Scotch ale) or absurdly weak (like 3% ABV, no more than 4%). A malt-head's dream, and no real hops to be found. Experiment with various specialty malts to your heart's content but try to keep the beer mild and easy to drink. Low ABV versions should be complex in malt character but also relatively slammable. Strong Scotch ales / wee heavies should be thicker and sweeter but not cloyingly sugary either -- good sippers, and you'd never drink more than one.

 

[mac_1103]

Scotch is Whisky

Unless it's an egg.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Called Scotch Ale by the American BJCP not the Scots.

Not in the 2021 guidelines.

Although there is a company that does make a beer named "Scotch Ale".

 

[DBhomebrew]

Notty makes a fine strong Scottish ale. As I understand it, one fairly traditional (read: old) brewery uses it. 98% Golden Promise, 2% roasted. At 1.0[7]0, fairly strong, but very drinkable. Not highly attenuated, but well attenuated. Smooth, full body, not sweet.

 

[Zadkiel]

A wee heavy is only called a scotch ale outside of Scotland. In Scotland it's a Wee heavy, a heavy, or a strong.

Scotch Ale isn't really used in the rest of the UK either (unlike Scottish Ale, as a general terms for any ale from Scotland, which is commonly used). I *think* that McEwans beer listed above is made for export only, if it's sold in the UK then it's under a different name (Champion, maybe?).

There is one huge exception, Tennant's, a scottish brewery, do make a 'scotch ale' that is sold under that name worldwide, including in Scotland. https://www.tennents.com/uk/shop/tennents-scotch-ale - I have no idea why they are the exception that breaks the rule.

But does that mean it's wrong to call it that? Nah. There's plenty of terms from all countries around the world that are called something different outside that country - A 'French Kiss' isn't called that inside France. I think it's fine. There are a number of 'Dutch' phrases with negative connotations (going Dutch, Dutch Courage, Double Dutch' etc) that were invented in the 17th Century by the English who were regularly at war with them, and they certainly aren't called that inside The Netherlands. 'China Wall' in IT probably isn't called that in China. I'm sure there's hundreds or even thousands of examples.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Scots most often call it
"whisky", not "Scotch." "Scotch" is a colloquial term for whisky made in Scotland, and while Scots use it to refer to specific products like Scotch whisky, pies, and broth, they generally avoid using it to describe the spirit itself, especially in reference to themselves or the drink's origin, as it can be seen as redundant or even offensive by some.

 

[beerisyummy]

I’m interested in dmtaylor’s remark, “Kettle caramelization is baloney unless you boil for 3-4 hours.”
Perhaps this is one of those homebrewing shibboleths. I’ve routinely seen 90 minute boils equated with kettle carm. — but I’ve also routinely seen a 90 min. Boil recommended to get rid of DMS in lagers … but I don’t think one wants kettle caramelization in a Helles? Tell me more.
And personally, I cannot bring myself to say “Scotch Ale” (unless referring to Noonan’s book, after all it’s the title), any more than I would be likely to say “Scottish Whiskey .” Scottish Ale, Scotch Whiskey. Potato potahto…

 

[Cheshire Cat]

The Scottish don’t make Whiskey that’s the Irish.

 

[Witherby]

AHA members can watch Ron Pattinson’s 2019 Homebrew Con presentation, Macbeth! The Brutal Truth about Scottish Beer which debunks a number of Scottish beer myths based on his analysis of hundreds of brewing records over many decades. Or read his book on Scottish brewing that this is based on. Most of the things on your list are on his list of myths (or total fantasy). I’m boarding a plane but can follow up later.

 

[mabrungard]

Some of those recommendations are valid and some not.

The soft water recommendation is not valid and doesn't provide much guidance anyhow. The Edinburgh area is a coal mining area and coal deposits are prone to contributing sulfate to groundwater. While Edinburgh now gets their water from inland surface reservoirs, they once relied on local groundwater. That groundwater had roughly 50 ppm chloride and 140 ppm sulfate and it was fairly hard and alkaline. But I believe that brewers might have taken the step to pre-boil that water to remove temporary hardness and reduce alkalinity. That would have made the local water suited to an amber to brown beer.

So based on the historic groundwater supply, Scottish styles would have been brewed with the chloride and sulfate content mentioned above. That water would contribute to a nicely drying beer finish that would pair well with a lightly bittered ale that showed its malt. Producing a high chloride, low sulfate, malty beer would be completely out of the Scottish style. A beer can still be malty when its water has significant sulfate in it. Low bittering and low to moderate attenuation define maltiness, not sulfate.

Mashing at a higher temperature is a wise approach since the beer can benefit from residual sweetness since the local water would have made their beers fairly drying. So this is a valid recommendation.

Kettle caramelization through a long boil is not a good approach to malt complexity. Adding a caramelized brewing syrup is what those old breweries did and it makes sense that they did this instead of boiling longer. Long boils just add Maillard browning products to the wort without caramel. Caramelization requires heating a very high gravity sugar slurry to reach caramelization temperatures. So if you want complexity, buy the dark syrups and add them (or make them yourself). The real reason you don't want to boil your wort any longer than necessary is that it damages wort and makes it oxidize earlier. If you're making a Strong Scotch ale and want it to be ready to drink without long aging, then the long boil is OK. But if you're making a 60 or 70 shilling Scottish, you would be disappointed that those beers would be prematurely oxidized and less enjoyable.

 

[sibelman]

different Scottish yeasts

fwiw, I began using Scottish ale yeast out of respect for Bert Grant back in the 90s. Wyeast 1728 back then, but Imperial Tartan A31 today. I tried but did not as much enjoy White Labs Edinburgh WLP028.

No hop aroma, no flavor

This is traditional, for sure. But, here in the Pacific Northwest, my Scottish Imperial isn't a true wee heavy (even though I sometimes call it that) because of the hop character I insist on. Really, it's more of a DIPA with Scottish yeast.

driven by malt, slightly less so by yeast, and always low on hops.

Small amount (5% or less) roast barley

Malt-driven, absolutely. No crystal needed with ~1.090 OG. I might try a bit of roasted barley next time, though 5% seems high. I no longer do long boils unless my kettle volume requires it because I sparge too much. My variation has evolved to emphasize hops aroma that would probably freak out fans of regular wee heavy, and fail a 14B wee heavy comp because not true to style.

 

[MaxStout]

I think a long boil is not about caramelization but to concentrate the wort to reach a high OG.

 

[dmtaylor]

I’m interested in dmtaylor’s remark, “Kettle caramelization is baloney unless you boil for 3-4 hours.”
Perhaps this is one of those homebrewing shibboleths. I’ve routinely seen 90 minute boils equated with kettle carm. — but I’ve also routinely seen a 90 min. Boil recommended to get rid of DMS in lagers … but I don’t think one wants kettle caramelization in a Helles? Tell me more.

Caramelization doesn't happen until gravity gets insanely high like 1.200 or something like that. Not happening in any standard boil, and even not after a 4-hour boil unless the SG is driven that high. There are other oxidation reactions happening as Martin mentioned which can do other things in an extended boil but it's not caramelization. Traditionally, UK brewers used actual caramel or dark "invert" sugar syrup that usually wasn't just dark but friggin BLACK as midnight, flavorful but somehow magically (chemically) not burnt or acrid when diluted in the wort.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

The recipe for Traquair House Ale requires removing an amount of wort after mash and boiling until it’s reduced significantly in volume. This I believe has the effect described in Noonan’s book.

 

[dmtaylor]

The recipe for Traquair House Ale requires removing an amount of wort after mash and boiling until it’s reduced significantly in volume. This I believe has the effect described in Noonan’s book.

I've heard that the brewery does not actually concentrate the wort like this. It is only a homebrewing technique to add intrigue, nothing that is actually done commercially.

 

[sibelman]

The recipe for Traquair House Ale requires removing an amount of wort after mash and boiling until it’s reduced significantly in volume. This I believe has the effect described in Noonan’s book.

Something missing here, as this describes what we always do. Unless "significantly" means hugely.

 

[lumpher]

Semantics... I'm just going to go watch some "football" now...

 

[PCABrewing]

If your in laws were sitting on the break water wall on lake Michigan they would be Scotch on the rocks.

And probably wet and cold...

 

[Cheshire Cat]

I've heard that the brewery does not actually concentrate the wort like this. It is only a homebrewing technique to add intrigue, nothing that is actually done commercially.

So Clone Brews recipe is wrong

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Something missing here, as this describes what we always do. Unless "significantly" means hugely.

It means take a litre and reduce the volume until it’s viscous and add to the main boil.

 

[dmtaylor]

So Clone Brews recipe is wrong

LOL, it's been discussed for decades how poor those recipes are. They have zero basis on any discussions with the real breweries. They are two people's wild guesses from the 1990s as to something that might vaguely resemble the commercial recipes, at least in color if nothing else.

 

[dmtaylor]

It means take a litre and reduce the volume until it’s viscous and add to the main boil.

I've often heard, and have tried, pulling a gallon and reducing 75% to one quart. But I haven't done that in many years.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

LOL, it's been discussed for decades how poor those recipes are. They have zero basis on any discussions with the real breweries. They are two people's wild guesses from the 1990s as to something that might vaguely resemble the commercial recipes, at least in color if nothing else.

I made it once and it turned out very good.

 

[dmtaylor]

I made it once and it turned out very good.

Certainly we can make good beer with whatever methods. It's just.... not a clone in any way shape form.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

It’s Golden Promise 98% and a bit of Roasted Barley 2%, hopped with EKG.

 

[dmtaylor]

It’s Golden Promise 98% and a bit of Roasted Barley 2%, hopped with EKG.

Indeed, that is a pretty decent guess to a grist for any Scottish, Scots, or Scotch clone in anybody's book.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Indeed, that is a pretty decent guess to a grist for any Scottish, Scots, or Scotch clone in anybody's book.

It’s what their website tells you. The %’s are mine.

 

[DBhomebrew]

In The Secrets of Master Brewers, Jeff Alworth says his chapter on strong Scottish ale and its accompanying recipe were written after correspondence with the Lady of Traquair as a go-between with the brewers themselves.

The 98/2 grist above.
148° for 1hr
2hr* boil. Alworth notes Pattinson's findings and declares Traquair's boil abnormally long.
26IBUs EKG at 120, another 3IBU at 10m
No side boil
79% attenuation

Traquair's water is "unusually soft" (her words), implying soft water is not a rule.
Then there's the wood primary vessels.

I brew a Traquair-ish with some med French oak cubes in the primary. I like to think it's fairly reminiscent of the original.

 

[passedpawn]

The secret is to take 1g of the wort and boil it down on your stove until it's syrup, then add back to boil. Cook it till yer scared.

 

[beerisyummy]

Thoughts. Though admittedly, I try not to think too much, it sometimes hurts.
Noonan goes into some detail about the different water sources in Edinburgh and claims that brewers sought the softer water for traditional Scottish ales and began using harder water for the newfangled (at the time) "India" ales. Not saying he's right or wrong, just providing context.
I do a trick with my Christmas Ale, which is a spiced, dark, malty monster around 9 point something abv: After primary fermentation has begun, I boil a gallon of water with 1 lb DME until it begs for mercy, then add some water and a can of Lyle's Black Treacle and boil the snot out of that, let it cool and add the goop to the fermentor. I can see doing something similar for a Wee Heavy, instead of a "long boil."
First though, I'm more interested in approximating A Belhaven Scottish (not Scotch lol) Ale. Even if I can't get that heavenly, creamy nitro-head, by gawd I'll get the rest of it. The Belhaven website claims their grain bill is "pale, crystal, black." Lol, how very helpful. I would translate this to lots of Golden Promise, mid-range crystal maybe 5 to 10% and roasted barley about 2%. Noonan suggests Kent Goldings is the hop of choice, which seems fine, and also 7% dextrose, which I might or might not try.
Thanks everyone for the discussion so far.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

The secret is to take 1g of the wort and boil it down on your stove until it's syrup, then add back to boil. Cook it till yer scared.

Read the mails above

 

[DBhomebrew]

Save the treacle for baking, save the dextrose for bottling. Make some dark invert starting with a rich unrefined cane sugar.