I'm having trouble with low OG readings??? - all grain

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StarCityBrewMaster

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I am missing my expected Beersmith OG readings. I am very thorough with my temps on strike and mash water and feel that I do a good job of mixing up the grains once I dough in but for whatever reason I keep missing my OG by a few points.

It's not terrible but annoying for example I just did an IPA with an expected OG of 1.068 but my reading came out to 1.060. I've been missing by this margin fairly frequently.

I take my readings once all the mash and sparge water (wort) has been collected in the brew kettle. I usually give it a good stir real quick to mix everything up, then collect for OG reading.

I've tested my hydrometer in water and it reads perfect 1.000 so it's not faulty equipment, what could I adjust?

With all this being said the beer tastes good so it's not a big concern but at the same time perfection (or close to) is always going to be my goal on brew days and hitting number would feel nice for once!

Thanks!
 
Are you adjusting your data from pre-boil reading? Your pre-boil reading is not your OG.
 
yeah, pre-boil, or fermentor OG?

beersmith gives out what you put in - what is your inputted efficiency? what is your inputted batch volume?
 
I apologize the example I gave 1.060 when it was supposed to be 1.068 is post boil just before yeast, that is where I'm off.

One thing I haven't done in a long time is to figure up m brewhouse efficiency maybe that's where it all lies for me. I have kept it at 75% but maybe I'm not as good as I'd like to think and it's a bit lower.
 
Adjust your eff% in beersmith until your expected OG is what you get. 1.060

Using pre-boil reading is the best way I have found to measure true efficiency as it has the less variables and allows for the most accurate data. i.e. volume

My efficiency isn't great but it is very consistent. That's the important thing.
 
i got 44% efficiency with a 15 lb recipe, then again with a 7.5 lb recipe. i was using a 44 quart rectangular cooler with a braided hose.

then i switched to this method. i bought a 5 gallon round/tall cooler, made a CPVC manifold ($6 for parts), and did a fly sparge. i got 72.5% efficiency even though my sparge water fell to 150 degrees. i bet i can get that up to 80% in the next few batches.
 
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efficiency, when it comes to that amount of points is important to people that run breweries and people that measure things.

i'm not saying not to try and get better, but it's likely from a cost/time perspective your time is better spent elsewhere.

but since you want answers, not alternative suggestions, here is where your problems likely are:
* measure your pH. adding 5.2 buffer to my mash adds 3% to my efficiency for anything less than a wee heavy or barley wine.
* fly sparging can get your higher, but it takes quite a bit longer.
* a braid is going to be less efficient than a manifold, which is less efficient than a false bottom. then again, false bottoms can be more difficult to keep un-stuck.
* your crush absolutely affects how easily sugars can move into your wort.

So, there are a number of factors, but personally if you want to troubleshoot this (which will be more labor and $$ expensive than just adding another pound of grain) I would do the followi
 
1. 5.2 pH buffer, ~$10
2. pH meter, $30-$120
3. experiment with crush, but make sure to add plenty of rise hulls ( !$??)
4. overly large, but 2x taller than wide mash tun with a false bottom and fly sparging (which ideally will include a pH meter to tell when to stop sparging)
5. or a lbs more grain :D

really though, go for efficiency, just don't let it drive you mad. good luck!!
 
i agree with most of what japhroaig, except a few things:

my eff. increased when i went from false bottom to braid, and my brewday was much, much hassle free.

pH is important, but 5.2 is kind of a gimmick, especially if you have really hard water like I do. invest that $10 on a water report.

crush is very important.

don't let percentage points bring you down. grain is cheap.
 
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