IGLOO Ice Cube Maxcold 70 Qt Roller

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FlyingHorse

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Anybody using one of these as a MLT? I was out shopping around for a 10-gal round cooler today and spied this at Dick's Sporting Goods. At $50-ish, it's not a whole lot more expensive than the 10-g round coolers. It's more square than rectangular, so I think you could probably fly-sparge it if you wanted. I had a moment of weakness and almost bought it, but given that I'm only doing 5-gal batches for the foreseeable future, it was just too much capacity for me. But if I were doing 10-gal 1.100+ monster beers, this might be at the top of my list.

One slight problem -- the drain hole is about 2-3" above the bottom of the cooler, so you'd have to do something to avoid leaving a gallon wort down there; either a dip tube, or fill the void. I've fixed similar problems with another cooler in the past by cutting up some cheap plastic cutting boards to size and filling the space.
 
I looked at that one too and the only thing I didn't like was the location of the drain, and if I remember right it is angled downward, which might make it tricky to rig up your tubing. You would have to use a few elbows or 45's. As far as for fly sparging I think it would work alright, i mean you are going to continually sparge untill your boil kettle is full so you'll end up with a bunch of water left over in there anyway. I did find and Igloo that was similar that didn't have a drain in so you would be able to put it where ever you wanted, that is the one I was leaning more towards.

Cheers
 
wop31, I think I saw he other (cube-shaped, no drain) Igloo you're talking about...the walls on it seemed really thin, and I was worried about it losing heat. In fact, I think it was called an "ice chest", not a cooler. Might want to take a closer look at that one before you take the plunge.
 
I got a 60qt that's just like that, that we'll be using for our first AG this weekend... unfortunately testing it, it does leave quite a bit of water on the bottom... but if you sparge just a bit more water through it you'll force that water out, explained the situation with the HBS guy and he said it'll work fine.
 
Bike N Brew said:
wop31, I think I saw he other (cube-shaped, no drain) Igloo you're talking about...the walls on it seemed really thin, and I was worried about it losing heat. In fact, I think it was called an "ice chest", not a cooler. Might want to take a closer look at that one before you take the plunge.

The one I saw was definatly a cooler and had pretty thick walls. I will have to try to find a link to it. I've already got a mash tun though, i just saw that one when I was out looking around. As far as any cooler loosing heat, I think that after my last brew day any cooler will work. i don't have the most expensive cooler (20 rubbermaid chest cooler) and it was 30deg outside with snow flurries (in april!) and I only lost about 2deg over the 60min mash. Just have to keep the lid shut.

Cheers
 
I bought that one in a 60 quart. (See my gallery for photos). It didn't work for a MLT because of the wheel well. It would have given me too much dead space inside and no way to make a manfold or drain that would work for me. I can take a picture of the inside if you want to show you what I mean.

It does make a fine redneck lagerator, though.
 
Most guys doing MLT's use new plumbing anyhow. Why be shy about drilling your own hole, then using a bulk head fitting? That way you can put the drain near a corner, and get even better draining (and efficiency). A cheap Spade bit would work just fine, it is only plastic and foam. I used one to drill through a refrigerator, steel and all.
 
I think I have the 60 quart version. Yes, I use 2 90 degree elbows to make it work, but it works fine. Check the wheel wells on that version to be sure they don't turn the floor of the cooler into a funky shape.

Truth be told, I spent a pretty penny on the cooler. If I had to do it over again, I would've paid $15 for a basic coleman 60 quart cooler. Sure this one holds temps perfectly, but who cares? 1 or two degrees can be made up by adding an extra quart of 200 degree water 40 minutes into the mash. In other words, it's over kill.

But yeah, it'll work fine.
 
I have the 60 qt Ice Cube without wheels. The drain hole is pretty low on that one, so putting a bulkhead fitting there worked just fine for me. The walls are REALLY thick above the drain hole, so don't bother trying to put a thermometer in the side of your cooler - you'll pull your hair out finding a bulkhead fitting that works, then the thermometer will be inaccurate. I lose very little heat during mashing with this cooler.

4688-mashtun.JPG
 
Yuri_Rage said:
I have the 60 qt Ice Cube without wheels. The drain hole is pretty low on that one, so putting a bulkhead fitting there worked just fine for me. The walls are REALLY thick above the drain hole, so don't bother trying to put a thermometer in the side of your cooler - you'll pull your hair out finding a bulkhead fitting that works, then the thermometer will be inaccurate. I lose very little heat during mashing with this cooler.

Yuri, I only ask this cause I am getting ready to put a thermometer on my mash tun and I want to make sure that it's not going ot be all jacked up after I do it. But why would the thermometer be inaccurate? I went and got a 2" brass pipe nipple that i was going to use for the bulkhead, will this not work? I was going to use a compression fitting on the out side, but they didn't make one for my size probe, between 1/8 & 3/16ths. So I jsut got an adaptor and a plug that I was going to drill out and use some silicone to seal it up. I though that it should work alright. But I would like to get some opinions before I do it too.

Cheers
 
I use a 60qt and 48qt wheeless Icecubes. They are setup w/manifolds. I use a 13" probe adjustable bimetal thermo in from the top so i can monitor grainbed depth. I can remove the thermo when doughing in so i dont knock it around and throw it off kilter..

Pics...

Top manifold and thermo..

TopManifold.jpg


Bottom manifold w/ side feet to hold manifold in place when opening/closing valve.

Manifold.jpg


Setup..

Grant.jpg
 
Just chiming in with my own experiences...I have Brewmometers on my kettles, and could see how thay wouldnt do a good job in a mash tun. Definately way too short. I use 60qt Ice Cubes without wheels for my mash tuns, and love them. I have long stemmed thermometers fitted on both through the side above my valves. I used the Zymico Thermothingy to install them. They have been very accurate compared to other calibrated thermometers I tested them against. I like that they can give me a good reading as they stick into the mash nicely.

Just my .02
 
I'm using an Ice Cube with wheels, and I can agree that wheel less is better, but it has never been a problem for me. I put a 4" spacer (anything will work) under the back side to lift it. I lose less than a half quart this way.
 
I have the 60qt, i don''t see the wheel well getting in the way...

What I did we took copper fittings with a 45 elbow on the outside to the spigot, on the inside i used some Soft Flexible Copper tubing that screws into the fitting to the other side and used the stainless braid. The Copper does stick up some on the inside of the MLT but when the spigot is opened with hosing it sucks it all up...

Testing it out tonight on our first AGs...

Oh and for seals I stole the rubber washers from the bottling bucket and an O-ring
 
I have the 60 qt Ice Cube without wheels. The drain hole is pretty low on that one, so putting a bulkhead fitting there worked just fine for me. The walls are REALLY thick above the drain hole, so don't bother trying to put a thermometer in the side of your cooler - you'll pull your hair out finding a bulkhead fitting that works, then the thermometer will be inaccurate. I lose very little heat during mashing with this cooler.

4688-mashtun.JPG

How does that work with the bulk head fitting above your false bottom screen? Is there a pick up tube or something that isn't in the picture?
 
How does that work with the bulk head fitting above your false bottom screen? Is there a pick up tube or something that isn't in the picture?

I guess you could set it up the same way the domed false bottoms are setup for the round coolers:

7.jpg
 

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