How to rotate a racking cane for transfer after the unitank is pressurized?

[slidingmike]

Is there a workable procedure for rotating a SS Brewtech Unitank racking valve after the tank has been pressurized, in the case of:
a) pressure fermentation, or
b) an idiot like me forgets to rotate the valve between cold crashing and carbonation?

It's my first time with the Unitank, and I'd planned it all out: rotate the racking valve after crash chilling, but before starting the force carbonation. But in the excitement of getting all the gear prepped, I skipped that step. Now I'm sitting here with a fully pressurized tank, and a racking valve pointed straight down. Am I screwed?

 

[Bobby_M]

You just need a PTFE or "Teflon" TC gasket. It slips easily while not leaking.

 

[slidingmike]

Thank you, Bobby. I'll definitely get one of those for next time. Will that slip with just loosening, but not removing, the tri clamp?

And any suggestions on how to escape my current dilemma?

 

[Vale71]

Am I screwed?

Absolutely not. As a matter of fact if you dump all the trub/yeast before transferring there is really no point in rotating the racking arm as all it will accomplish is increasing your wastage.

 

[slidingmike]

Vale71, thanks. As I mentioned, the unitank is already under pressure -- is it still possible to dump all the trub once it's been pressurized / carbonated? Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I go about doing that without having everything explode out the dump valve?

 

[TheMadKing]

Vale71, thanks. As I mentioned, the unitank is already under pressure -- is it still possible to dump all the trub once it's been pressurized / carbonated? Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I go about doing that without having everything explode out the dump valve?

you need a restriction fitting on the outlet of your dump valve - like TC to hose barb, and then you only crack your dump valve very slightly. I dumped just yesterday with 12 PSI in my unitank.

+1 to what Bobby said, I bought a teflon gasket and I only have to loosen the clamp screw by 1 turn or so, and I can then rotate the racking arm easily.

 

[eric19312]

The teflon gasket makes it easier but it is still possible with other type of gasket including silicone, epdm, viton what have you.

Just loosen the clamp but don't remove. then turn. if it won't turn loosen it a little more. repeat.

Actually looking at the design of the SS Brewtech unitank I don't believe it's racking arm is really designed to be turned to get it above the trub. Unlike the spike unitank there is no position indicator on the racking arm so how will you know when it is up vs down?

Also unlike Spike, SS Brewtech gives you a dedicated port for the carb stone. Spike has to let you turn the racking arm because their carb stone is designed to attach to the racking port and if you couldn't turn the arm to the up position you would not be able to carb. This isn't necessary with the SS Brewtech design so they are able to give you a simpler racking arm solution.

If you are thinking to turn the racking arm to get it out of the trub for a transfer I recommend working on doing a better job dumping trub. Leaving the racking arm pointed down in the exact center of the cone seems to work best for me.

 

[TheMadKing]

The teflon gasket makes it easier but it is still possible with other type of gasket including silicone, epdm, viton what have you.

Just loosen the clamp but don't remove. then turn. if it won't turn loosen it a little more. repeat.

Actually looking at the design of the SS Brewtech unitank I don't believe it's racking arm is really designed to be turned to get it above the trub. Unlike the spike unitank there is no position indicator on the racking arm so how will you know when it is up vs down?

Also unlike Spike, SS Brewtech gives you a dedicated port for the carb stone. Spike has to let you turn the racking arm because their carb stone is designed to attach to the racking port and if you couldn't turn the arm to the up position you would not be able to carb. This isn't necessary with the SS Brewtech design so they are able to give you a simpler racking arm solution.

If you are thinking to turn the racking arm to get it out of the trub for a transfer I recommend working on doing a better job dumping trub. Leaving the racking arm pointed down in the exact center of the cone seems to work best for me.

So maybe I've been doing it wrong, but I start with my racking arm horizontal (parallel to the ground), and then rotate it to the down position slowly, while I'm transferring so that I can see if it starts to pick up trub. I had assumed that was it's purpose, and it didn't actually occur to me to start with it in the trub and rotate it back out - I'm not sure I see the real advantage of doing that though.

 

[Vale71]

Vale71, thanks. As I mentioned, the unitank is already under pressure -- is it still possible to dump all the trub once it's been pressurized / carbonated? Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I go about doing that without having everything explode out the dump valve?

You just need to put as much restriction on the output as possible. A 1/4" barb and a few feet of 1/4" silicone hose work very well for me.

 

[slidingmike]

Thank you, all! This is really helpful. Love this forum!

 

[eric19312]

So maybe I've been doing it wrong, but I start with my racking arm horizontal (parallel to the ground), and then rotate it to the down position slowly, while I'm transferring so that I can see if it starts to pick up trub. I had assumed that was it's purpose, and it didn't actually occur to me to start with it in the trub and rotate it back out - I'm not sure I see the real advantage of doing that though.

It sounds like you are doing what Spike advises on their FAQ. I don't do it that way. I do 3 or so small dumps to sufficiently clear the cone. I make sure the racking arm is in the down position and I run a small amount of beer through it, Then I rack to my kegs.

The gradually rotating the racking tubu until you start picking up trub means you will pick up trub. I can see the trub if I am racking with clear vinyl hose but not in silicone or UVA barrier hose. I'd prefer not to use clear vinyl hose for racking but say you are. Then you have to watch that hose and when you grab a bit of trub you have to stop flow, pop the poppet off your keg. Then remove the poppet from the racking hose. Clear the racking hose of trub and beer, Reconnect the poppet to the hose and reconnect the poppet to the keg. Back off a tad and start transferring again. If you are like an eighth of an inch off the trub what is to stop another clump from getting into that hose? Again say I was using that clear hose am I supposed to watch every bit of beer travel through that hose being ready to jump on it if a clump of trub comes through?

Nah I'm not doing that. Dump the trub. Rack the beer. Overbuild your recipe to be able to dump enough to make your transfer easy. I tend to keg on brew day and getting a stuck transfer during the process really can make for a frustrating and overlong brew day.

 

[TheMadKing]

It sounds like you are doing what Spike advises on their FAQ. I don't do it that way. I do 3 or so small dumps to sufficiently clear the cone. I make sure the racking arm is in the down position and I run a small amount of beer through it, Then I rack to my kegs.

The gradually rotating the racking tubu until you start picking up trub means you will pick up trub. I can see the trub if I am racking with clear vinyl hose but not in silicone or UVA barrier hose. I'd prefer not to use clear vinyl hose for racking but say you are. Then you have to watch that hose and when you grab a bit of trub you have to stop flow, pop the poppet off your keg. Then remove the poppet from the racking hose. Clear the racking hose of trub and beer, Reconnect the poppet to the hose and reconnect the poppet to the keg. Back off a tad and start transferring again. If you are like an eighth of an inch off the trub what is to stop another clump from getting into that hose? Again say I was using that clear hose am I supposed to watch every bit of beer travel through that hose being ready to jump on it if a clump of trub comes through?

Nah I'm not doing that. Dump the trub. Rack the beer. Overbuild your recipe to be able to dump enough to make your transfer easy. I tend to keg on brew day and getting a stuck transfer during the process really can make for a frustrating and overlong brew day.

Makes sense thanks!

I have been rotating slowly enough that I can see just a change in the cloudiness of the wort going through the line (I am using clear vinyl 3/16" ID serving line), and then just stop rotating at that point. I haven't ever experienced what you describe where I have to stop and clean everything, I just stop rotating and leave it there and so far it has worked. I can definitely see what you're describing happening though, and it sounds like a nightmare I have been lucky enough to avoid, thanks!

 

[Qhrumphf]

You should have already been dumping under CO2 pressure (whether beer under pressure or supplied to the headspace at the time). The volume that gets displaced needs to be replaced- either with gas expanding from pressure dropping, gas being sucked in, or putting your fermenter under negative pressure (which often for an umpressurized dump can be enough to stop flow until air gets sucked in).

I start with racking arms up, bleed out any solids prior to transfer (pushing out sani and packing my transfer hose with beer), and then rotate down to trub level as I'm transferring. Starting down can trap a gas bubble, or stir up trub when you rotate it back up.

I've never been able to get a clear transfer from the bottom. Stuff sticks to the side of the cone and no matter how much/often/times I knock it off still pull a bunch.

Trick is to knock off just enough that the racking arm rotates down just to vertical or a couple degrees above it.