How To: BrewPi LCD Add-On

[wbarber69]

What's the max peak amp of your fridge, cause compressor and fan motors spike up quite a bit higher than their running amperage when they initially kick on…

 

[alexlark]

I'm not too sure, not at home for another week. I've been running 2 small under counter fridges, 1 tall larder freezer and a florescent light off a 13A supply for a long time. The fridge also has no fan, just a compressor.

I'll try and find the specs online. I read about higher amps for the first 5-10 seconds. I know the 2A boards incorporate a 2A fuse but no mention of a fuse with the 8A boards. I'm running the 2 fridges off separate 10A fused spurs, although the fuses are not quick blow.

 

[alexlark]

I've found the rating of my fridge, 80W. I previously thought it was higher. Anyway at 230V and 10x the amps this is still only 3.47A. Even if the compressor spiked 20x at startup this would be 6.94A. I 'should' be OK with those 8A SSRs. Just depends on their quality. I've read positive reviews of the relays themselves but no reviews on the actual board.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

BrewPi is running with the new Version 2.01 Nano shield but I still have a few problems
1: I can't get the LCD to work. Backlight lights up but no data. I went with R 13 option non-dimming backlight. I tried it first W/O the encoder then with the encoder- no change. 5V power source plugged into the shield and pi plugged into phone charger port.USB cable from pi to nano
2: Sensors show up in devices but do not display temperature.
I'm still working on installing the HC-05.

 

[CadiBrewer]

day_trippr will probably chime in with a smarter answer, but I'm guessing part of the problem is your power supply. You'll want between 7 and 12 volts, with 9 being optimal.

 

[day_trippr]

5V at the barrel connector is never gonna work.

I've done tons of experimenting with input power while hunting for the elusive LCD Scramble, and anything below 9V at the input is asking for reliability problems...

Cheers!

 

[Bigdaddyale]

5V at the barrel connector is never gonna work.

I've done tons of experimenting with input power while hunting for the elusive LCD Scramble, and anything below 9V at the input is asking for reliability problems...

Cheers!

Same results with 9v.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

UPDATE:
The pot was way out of range.I had to turn it 20 revolutions before I got an image.

 

[day_trippr]

 

[alexlark]

UPDATE:
The pot was way out of range.I had to turn it 20 revolutions before I got an image.

That had me first time too!! I thought I could have been chasing that issue for a while.

 

[hinkensj]

Built the 3D case from Lee Bussy and it's BEAUTIFUL! Thanks to everyone that worked on this project.

One question about powering the Arduino/shield: I have the power supply board specified in the project connected to the 5v pin on the shield and all works well. The question is, can I also plug in the RaspberryPi into the USB port of the Arduino? Or do I need to disconnect the 5V from the power supply first? I just don't want to damage the Arduino/shield or the Rpi...

 

[panzo]

is there any schematic in order to print a board on coper-board instead of breadboard or protoshield?
pcb print here in Greece is too expensive.....

 

[Bigdaddyale]

is there any schematic in order to print a board on coper-board instead of breadboard or protoshield?
pcb print here in Greece is too expensive.....

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7981055&postcount=1091
I have a few boards available.

 

[panzo]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7981055&postcount=1091
I have a few boards available.

Really?? could you ship me 2 or 3 of them???? what's the cost???
if you would like personal contact you can contact on my mail [email protected]
as i can see i cant sent you PM

 

[LBussy]

Built the 3D case from Lee Bussy and it's BEAUTIFUL! Thanks to everyone that worked on this project.

One question about powering the Arduino/shield: I have the power supply board specified in the project connected to the 5v pin on the shield and all works well. The question is, can I also plug in the RaspberryPi into the USB port of the Arduino? Or do I need to disconnect the 5V from the power supply first? I just don't want to damage the Arduino/shield or the Rpi...

This is what I received from @day_trippr . Any mistakes are mine from transcription:

There's a FET that when enabled connects the USB 5v to the 5v rail. That FET needs to be removed - shown in the photo below.

day_trippr also recommended powering more than one of the 5v pins (5v and IOREF) to split split wire resistance and inductance in half, and to allow more than 1A in if needed.

All this being said - I have not done this yet so do pay attention to see if day_trippr corrects me.

 

[Druish_00]

I just got my BrewPi up and running and wanted to add an LCD to be able to check temps at a glance. It was quite the chore to get the BrewPi software up and running correctly since Im using a new Pi Zero W and there was a compatibility issue with the OS.

I found the thread describing what seems to be a pretty simple way to install an LCD display.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthre...510036&page=31

Im just curious if anyone has done this recently. The post is from 2015 and some of the links that are referenced in the thread are a bit out dated or no longer exist.

If I use one of those .hex files referenced in post, is that going to mess up the BrewPi software?

Oh and I did get a rotary encoder since it seemed relatively easy to wire up according to the post by jcscott

Thanks day_trippr for the help so far and suggesting that I post this question on this thread

 

[pocketmon]

I just got my BrewPi up and running and wanted to add an LCD to be able to check temps at a glance. It was quite the chore to get the BrewPi software up and running correctly since Im using a new Pi Zero W and there was a compatibility issue with the OS.

I found the thread describing what seems to be a pretty simple way to install an LCD display.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthre...510036&page=31

Im just curious if anyone has done this recently. The post is from 2015 and some of the links that are referenced in the thread are a bit out dated or no longer exist.

If I use one of those .hex files referenced in post, is that going to mess up the BrewPi software?

Oh and I did get a rotary encoder since it seemed relatively easy to wire up according to the post by jcscott

Thanks day_trippr for the help so far and suggesting that I post this question on this thread

I did it two years ago. I even built an image of v0.2.10.

It is not difficult at all. If you can setup original BrewPi, you can setup the I2C version. (well, I CAN'T build the original BrewPi, but I CAN build the I2C version.)

Follow the instruction:
https://lukasholenweg.com/2015/03/03/brewpi-i2c-version/

 

[day_trippr]

Re-posting this image for panzo rather than try to find it in this thread



Cheers!

 

[panzo]

Re-posting this image for panzo rather than try to find it in this thread

View attachment 419457

Cheers!

thanks alot for the help day_trippr!!!!

 

[day_trippr]

A tip o' the hat to @cadibrewer as @panzo has brought another V2.something Nano shield to life

Cheers!

 

[CadiBrewer]

Thanks for the shout out. I'm glad someone else found that design useful!

 

[JDL]

Can we use the new R3 version of the proto board and still follow the wiring digrams on this plan?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N426HCG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thanks

 

[day_trippr]

Yes, that would work. My final hand-wired builds used that same protoshield - which is not actually "new" as the R3 Uno it's meant to top has been out for many years now.

That said I would advise against going that route. It was necessary when I built them as there was no alternative solution, but with the CadiBrewer PCB available there is a clear choice. It'd be way easier on everyone

I would ring up @CadiBrewer, @Bigdaddyale and @LBussy and see if any of them are holding PCBs they'd be willing to part with.

Cheers!

 

[CadiBrewer]

I've got a spare, PM sent.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

I don't have any "Naked" V.1 PCB left but I do have a couple populated shields with R3 Unos available.I have a couple Cadibrewer v.2.1 PCB that uses a pro mini as well. Send me a PM if interested

 

[JDL]

Won't let me PM you.

 

[scotty675]

Been lurking around for a little while now. I've got the basic BrewPi wired up and running fine, and now I'm looking to add the LCD and rest of the fun bits. Would anyone happen to have a board laying around still? Compensation will be given of course.

 

[atoughram]

Been lurking around for a little while now. I've got the basic BrewPi wired up and running fine, and now I'm looking to add the LCD and rest of the fun bits. Would anyone happen to have a board laying around still? Compensation will be given of course.

What are you looking for? I have one of the 1st generation PCB's and the parts to populate it - with an LCD too. PM me

 

[scotty675]

PM sent

 

[matridium]

Hello.

I have been following this thread now for about three weeks, reading up on the LCD shield. I have yet to build a brewpi, however I have started to order most of the parts needed. I am a little confused at this point as to what the best version of the shield is going to be to build.
I see three version at this point maybe 4? I downloaded from the Google docs folder BrewPi Shield v2.0, and I started to build an order on Mouser and I noticed this must be a shield a nano? I have found the DIYBrewpi WIKI very useful.
Unfortunately I have already ordered the regular arduino the resistors and 2 channel relay board therefore
I think if I get these questions answered I can better deiced on what I need to do next before I purchase more things then I really need.

-Does version 2.0 of the shield take care of LCD display issues (scrambling)?
-Should I just build version 1.2 (regular Arduino) because I'm already getting that kind of board?
-If I go with v2.0, and use a nano, should I buy a real Nano from Arduino, or just anyone on Amazon, I know drivers are issues with counterfeits.
-What is the best LCD board to order? I see lots of them but I want to use good quality parts?
-Is it advisable to use the SSR or is the 2 channel relay fine? (I have a small refrigerator, I have not looked at wattage but I think its well within the range of the 2 channel board)
-I have no problem getting the boards made on OSH Park, and if anyone is interested in the boards I can put more boards on my order and send them to anyone who wants one.

If there is any other info that will help me that I did not mention here please let me know.

-M