Oh! Didn't realize that. I guess since I was connecting to the headers I did not even think there were pull-ups there. No reason there could not be of course. That's what I get for thinking.
How To: BrewPi LCD Add-On
- Thread starter day_trippr
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Yes, Arduino has internal pull-ups that can be programmatically turned on or off.
The rotary encoder is literally just a switch, and it doesn't matter how it is labelled.
To use them with the Arduino shield I would either remove the pull-ups on the shield and connect CLK and DT to ROT A and ROT B, SW to PB, GND to GND, and + to +5V.
Or remove the pull-ups on the switch PCB and wire it the same but don't connect +.
Probably wiring it the first way would work even without removing the pull-ups.
There are internal pull-ups in the Arduino too. You can save a resistor, and the board space, and the wiring. That's maybe 1 cent right there. When you make a million of them the savings add up.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I just got an email saying the boards shipped.
user 40839
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 1,176
- Reaction score
- 86
From China though? So they'll be here... sometime in 2032?
(Thanks again for organizing)
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
That was fast! The boards arrived today. Build instructions and BOM are located here.From China though? So they'll be here... sometime in 2032?
(Thanks again for organizing)
http://diybrewpi.wikia.com/wiki/BrewPi_Shield
user 40839
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 1,176
- Reaction score
- 86
Outstanding job, sir. Got the payment off to you, and looking forward to getting to work.
CadiBrewer
Well-Known Member
It would mean a complete redesign but obviously it could be done. My question would be why use the nano with a shield, because you are going to lose the advantage of the small form factor. You'll save a couple of bucks over the Uno but you'll end up with a shield bigger than the nano itself due to all of the component headers. Someone smarter than I could definitely shrink the board to a smaller size, but I doubt you'd get it close to the nano in size.
That being said, if I were to mock up a board, I'd make it so the nano slots into the pcb and sits right on top with all of the component headers around it. You could come up with a pretty cool layout...
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
2nd run shields are in the mail with a 11/25/16 delivery date.
wbarber69
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2013
- Messages
- 2,191
- Reaction score
- 263
Because you could design it so it all fits behind the lcd and it'll be an all-in-one form factor. a micro could also be used but they are a bit more of a pain to program and not that much smaller than the nano
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Looks like you guys should all receive the boards today.
user 40839
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 1,176
- Reaction score
- 86
Damn, you're on top of it like a midget up a ladder.
My boards are in my dirty little hands, and will start solderin' 'em up as soon as I finish getting the components. (I noticed the Mouser BOM got snipped, and finding the right replacements is NOT that easy.)
Thanks a million for organizing the boards sir! I look forward to having these puppies controlling my shiny new SS Brewtech BME Conicals. Next step, glycol chiller!
IF anyone is having trouble locating the PFETs (Mouser was out when I ordered 3 months ago), shoot me a PM. I have about 45 of those guys and I'll snail mail them to you at $0.00. Limit to 1+ your requirements. i.e. you need 2 I'll send you 3.
If anyone would like to get in on a group buy, I would like to order some boards for myself. If I can get 8 or so other boards spoken for, I would be glad to order these and ship them out like BigDaddyAle has done.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Just FYI If you do another run You should do it soon. They shut down production at the PCB plant for Chinese New Year in Feb and it could double the time it takes to receive the boards
Thanks for the heads up.
I placed the order today so anyone interested in some boards, let me know.
Additionally for those that need to buy the components, here is my project from Mouser with everything except the 4K7ohm resistor.
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=888022ec5b
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I would go with the male header pins like Day-Tripper suggested in this post. post https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7755676&postcount=684
Yes.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Have you tested your DS18B20 sensors to see if they are running in non paresitic mode ? There was a bunch of us who got the wrong DS18B20 sensors from the factory.There is a sketch you can run to test them some where in this thread.https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7556259&postcount=5416
finally the sensors recognized my mistake was on a pin i have double and triple check the pins the problem now is on the screen which shows only 2 lines!! the same thing shown even if itry to connect it via breadboard!!!
OP
OP
That state is where the LCD internal power-up is complete.
It's waiting for a command from the Arduino.
Start with power and ground connections to the shift register, then trace the three inputs from the Arduino, the pull-up on the CLR pin (10) and the grounded OEn pin (13) then the outputs from the shift register to the LCD.
Somewhere there's a miswire...
Cheers!
It's waiting for a command from the Arduino.
Start with power and ground connections to the shift register, then trace the three inputs from the Arduino, the pull-up on the CLR pin (10) and the grounded OEn pin (13) then the outputs from the shift register to the LCD.
Somewhere there's a miswire...
Cheers!
There's also the contrast pot which may be the case ... was with mine.
OP
OP
I'm betting you weren't looking at the alternating solid row pattern at the time...
Cheers!
OP
OP
Long as I'm here: I'm reposting this image as the original had an error (B-side NC and NO pin wiring was swapped) and the first post of the corrected version (this one) is buried somewhere in the thread.
Cheers!
Cheers!
If you power relay #2 from the normally closed side of relay #1, you save a wire nut (save space!) and you prevent both of them from ever coming on at the same time through software or hardware failure.
Did you try adjusting the contrast potentiometer?
When I had that issue with my LCD, I had the connections reversed (pin 1 on 16 and vice-versa).
Finally it works!!!!!!! i have change the lcd screen with a new one and it works!!! now the only thing that remains is to read how i will program the PID and etc in the brewpi GUI one more question ... if i want to connect the door switch in order to see "open door" alarm in the screen where i should connect it?
i have change the lcd screen with a new one and it works!!! now the only thing that remains is to read how i will program the PID and etc in the brewpi GUI one more question ... if i want to connect the door switch in order to see "open door" alarm in the screen where i should connect it?
Finally it works!!!!!!!
Congratulations!
The door switch is pin 4 to ground and generally set up as "inverted."
OP
OP
Check the wiring, as there are no settings in BrewPi to enable or disable it.
Black wire is ground, purple is the pushbutton signal to digital IO 7, and the Blue and Green wires are the up/down bits to digitial IO 8 & 9, respectively...
Cheers!
Black wire is ground, purple is the pushbutton signal to digital IO 7, and the Blue and Green wires are the up/down bits to digitial IO 8 & 9, respectively...
Cheers!
Similar threads
