How long do IPAs take to ferment?

[ToddPacker69]

I got a brewers best IPA kit, and the directions say ferment for 48 hours and then watch until the airlock stops bubbling. IS this accurate? How long typically for an IPA, sitting at about 55-65 degrees, in a tub of water, take to ferment?

 

[ToddPacker69]

i would love to be able to bottle in 2 weeks

 

[Golddiggie]

IMO, directions with time frames of hours/days for fermentation need to be blacked out. Give the brew the time it needs to become great. In my own experience, an IPA/PA of moderate OG (1.055-1.070) normally takes 2-3 weeks from pitch to be ready for next steps. I usually give them 3-4 weeks from pitch to keg. Then they have 2 weeks at serving temperature to carbonate (if there's a spot in the brew fridge right away).

A deciding factor is what yeast you used, it's temperature range, and what the fermenting brew temperature range is. Depending on the yeast you can get different flavors, characteristics, etc. from different temperatures.

Are you planning on dry hopping this? If not, then give it 2-4 weeks in primary. Take a SG sample at 2 weeks, then another 3-4 days from then to confirm the FG. Taste the SG samples to see how it tastes. IF there's no off flavors, and it tastes good, then it's ready for bottle/keg and carbonating. If you're going to dry hop it, then you need to decide how long to dry hop it, and add that to the above time. I would NOT dry hop for more than 10-12 days (after 14 days people report getting unwanted flavors from the hop additions). Personally, I dry hop in keg, with whole hops (in a nylon hop bag). I add them right before the keg goes into the brew fridge, so the hops, and brew, get chilled as soon as possible once the hops have been added. I've had excellent hop flavor/aroma from this for the entire keg (took 2-3 weeks to kick the keg, so 4-5 weeks total time with the hops in it). The cooler temperatures help to keep the hop contribution stable.

BTW, there's TONS of information in the forums about all of this... Start searching, browsing, reading the threads. Especially in the beginners section.

Also, look at the bottom of the page... There's other threads in the 'Similar Threads' item...

 

[Copperpots_Brewing]

NO! Haha, sorry, but brewers best pisses me off with their hazy directions. It confused the crap out of me when I started brewing. The air lock is not a full proof indication of fermentation. The only real way to tell if fermentation is complete is to take gravity readings.
I have found that fermentation generally completes in about 10-14 days, but it doesn't hurt to let it sit a bit longer. The yeast will continue to clean up other byproducts in the beer for you if you let it sit.
If you don't want to risk possible contamination by taking a gravity reading, the safe bet is to let it sit for a minimum of 2 weeks, then follow instructions to bottling. If you want to make sure fermentation is complete, make sure EVERYTHING you're using is sanitized, avoid splashing, and place the hydrometer in the fermenter and take note of the gravity. Then do the same thing about 3 days later. If the gravity hasn't changed, you're probably good to go.

 

[Golddiggie]

Use this site to figure out how much sugar to prime the batch with when you're getting ready to bottle. Also weigh the sugar, do NOT use a volume measure for it. If you don't have a decent [digital] scale. spend a few dollars and get one. Plenty of the online vendors carry them at very good prices. I have two scales for brewing. One goes up to 11oz, that I use for my hops and other small measure additions (or things like PBW, or chemicals when needed). I also have an UltraShip 55 scale (55# capacity) for weighing my grains. I have another digital scale that I've had for over 10 years that I use to weigh smaller amounts of grain (a couple of pounds). Mostly I use that when weighing grain I have at home before going to my brew-buddy's place to whip up a batch. The third scale is also used for regular cooking and other things, so it's not 100% dedicated for brewing, and brewing related items (unlike the other two).

 

[afr0byte]

I'm curious. I've found that my fermentations, with the exception of something like a 10.5% abv dark strong (EDIT: or a lager) fermenting at cooler temps (for the yeast's range), don't normally take more than 5-7 days to reach FG. What are you folks considering done, in terms of the fermentation being done?

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm curious. I've found that my fermentations, with the exception of something like a 10.5% abv dark strong (EDIT: or a lager) fermenting at cooler temps (for the yeast's range), don't normally take more than 5-7 days to reach FG. What are you folks considering done, in terms of the fermentation being done?

Done fermenting and READY for bottle/keg are not the same thing... Not even close in most cases. Also, with the rare exception, most of my ales take more than a week before they've completed fermentation. Of course, I tend to ferment [everything] in the cooler end of the yeast temperature range since that gives the brew what I'm looking for.

Also, giving the yeast time to do what else it can to make the brew great is time well spent, IMO. I'm not brewing just to rush a batch through from grain to glass. I'm brewing to make something beyond great, or even excellent that is a pleasure to drink. I tend to brew ales, and porters, that run from 5.5% on the low end up to 12%+ on the high end. Most fall above 6.5% though.

Best way to tell IF a batch is ready for bottle/keg is to taste the hydrometer sample. IF you are looking to get it to bottle/keg fast, make damned sure it's at actual FG. Don't just assume that because it's at what the directions list as the FG that it's actually AT the brew's FG. Taking a second gravity sample 3-4 days from the first one and comparing the results WILL tell you if it's done fermenting or not.

 

[afr0byte]

Done fermenting and READY for bottle/keg are not the same thing... Not even close in most cases. Also, with the rare exception, most of my ales take more than a week before they've completed fermentation. Of course, I tend to ferment [everything] in the cooler end of the yeast temperature range since that gives the brew what I'm looking for.

Also, giving the yeast time to do what else it can to make the brew great is time well spent, IMO. I'm not brewing just to rush a batch through from grain to glass. I'm brewing to make something beyond great, or even excellent that is a pleasure to drink. I tend to brew ales, and porters, that run from 5.5% on the low end up to 12%+ on the high end. Most fall above 6.5% though.

Best way to tell IF a batch is ready for bottle/keg is to taste the hydrometer sample. IF you are looking to get it to bottle/keg fast, make damned sure it's at actual FG. Don't just assume that because it's at what the directions list as the FG that it's actually AT the brew's FG. Taking a second gravity sample 3-4 days from the first one and comparing the results WILL tell you if it's done fermenting or not.

I didn't actually say that finished fermenting and ready to bottle/keg were the same thing. However, Copperpots_Brewing was saying that their fermentation was usually complete in 10-14 days. That's primarily why I was asking. Perhaps I should have quoted them.

Also, I too give the beer extra time to, ideally at a slightly elevated temperature, to clean-up. In my opinion, though, it's not going to take more than a couple days to clean-up what the yeast is going to clean-up in the primary. Any aging after that can happen in a secondary/the bottle, in my opinion. Obviously one probably doesn't want to take the beer off the yeast if they're still trying to get the FG lower.

Btw, there's not really any risk of kegging early if your batch is likely to only be a few points or so above the true FG. They're rated to 100PSI.

 

[Golddiggie]

IMO, rushing a brew, in any aspect of the process, is not a good idea.

I have a wee heavy (12%) that was started 12/17/11, left in primary for two months before being pushed to an aging keg and 3oz of medium toast oak cubes (Hungarian oak)... I've not yet decided when to check it. Since it's sealed up tight (in a sanke keg with a TC cap over the opening) I'm not concerned (I also pushed in CO2 to ensure it's safe for it). I did the same thing with an old ale this past weekend (around 9%) after it had been in primary for two months. It's sitting on 8" of medium toast cherry wood honeycomb.

All that aside, I let my bigger brews go longer (anything on target for over 7% gets 6 weeks, over 8% gets 8 weeks) than the lower ABV brews. Using yeast strains from the UK, I've found that they give me better results (for what I want) in the lower temperature range. I have a batch started on Saturday that's only about 63F and it's going like mad (or was on Sunday).

Again, personally, I don't cut corners. I call kegging before it's time, cutting a serious corner. While it won't blow the keg, I can't imagine it being a good thing. For one thing, it could get seriously over-carbonated while in the keg. Especially if you give it the rest of the time it should have had in primary before you moved it to keg. Personally, I have enough fermenters so that I don't need to move a brew from one in order to fill it with what I'm brewing that night. Right now I have two 25L kegs allocated for aging beers. I have 3 tall 1/4bbl kegs for fermenters (a short 1/4bbl keg is being converted). I also have a 50L keg that's been converted into a fermenter for ~10 gallon batches (or 9 gallons out). I also have 6 1/6bbl kegs and one 3.875 gallon sanke keg all for meads and such. Easy enough to leave enough of them empty for transferring when it's time.

Again, don't cut corners, or rush things to next steps. Nothing great can come from it. At best, you won't get bad results.

 

[rexbanner]

IMO, rushing a brew, in any aspect of the process, is not a good idea.

I have a wee heavy (12%) that was started 12/17/11, left in primary for two months before being pushed to an aging keg and 3oz of medium toast oak cubes (Hungarian oak)... I've not yet decided when to check it. Since it's sealed up tight (in a sanke keg with a TC cap over the opening) I'm not concerned (I also pushed in CO2 to ensure it's safe for it). I did the same thing with an old ale this past weekend (around 9%) after it had been in primary for two months. It's sitting on 8" of medium toast cherry wood honeycomb.

All that aside, I let my bigger brews go longer (anything on target for over 7% gets 6 weeks, over 8% gets 8 weeks) than the lower ABV brews. Using yeast strains from the UK, I've found that they give me better results (for what I want) in the lower temperature range. I have a batch started on Saturday that's only about 63F and it's going like mad (or was on Sunday).

Again, personally, I don't cut corners. I call kegging before it's time, cutting a serious corner. While it won't blow the keg, I can't imagine it being a good thing. For one thing, it could get seriously over-carbonated while in the keg. Especially if you give it the rest of the time it should have had in primary before you moved it to keg. Personally, I have enough fermenters so that I don't need to move a brew from one in order to fill it with what I'm brewing that night. Right now I have two 25L kegs allocated for aging beers. I have 3 tall 1/4bbl kegs for fermenters (a short 1/4bbl keg is being converted). I also have a 50L keg that's been converted into a fermenter for ~10 gallon batches (or 9 gallons out). I also have 6 1/6bbl kegs and one 3.875 gallon sanke keg all for meads and such. Easy enough to leave enough of them empty for transferring when it's time.

Again, don't cut corners, or rush things to next steps. Nothing great can come from it. At best, you won't get bad results.

Having brewed sooo many IPAs I think you are coming from this the wrong way. I brew the same IPA recipe and just change the hops, and after many IPAs I think I found the best method. If you are an experienced brewer (proper pitch rate, oxygenation, fermentation temps) and you use a fast, attenuating American ale yeast, your IPAs will be done after ten days. You can then dry hop directly in the primary for 3-5 days. Then cold crash for two, and bottle or keg. I use table sugar and champagne yeast to bottle my IPAs. I drink one after one week, and then start drinking the rest from 2-4 weeks after bottling. That means they are ready to start drinking at one month from brew date.

With those beers you just described, long aging times can be necessary. IPA is not the same. It needs to be consumed fresh. If you want proof, I've entered two competitions in my life. Both times it was a different IPA, and one got first and the other got second. Each time, four weeks old. They actually carbed up while being shipped. 20+ IPA entries both times.

 

[afr0byte]

IMO, rushing a brew, in any aspect of the process, is not a good idea.

I have a wee heavy (12%) that was started 12/17/11, left in primary for two months before being pushed to an aging keg and 3oz of medium toast oak cubes (Hungarian oak)... I've not yet decided when to check it. Since it's sealed up tight (in a sanke keg with a TC cap over the opening) I'm not concerned (I also pushed in CO2 to ensure it's safe for it). I did the same thing with an old ale this past weekend (around 9%) after it had been in primary for two months. It's sitting on 8" of medium toast cherry wood honeycomb.

All that aside, I let my bigger brews go longer (anything on target for over 7% gets 6 weeks, over 8% gets 8 weeks) than the lower ABV brews. Using yeast strains from the UK, I've found that they give me better results (for what I want) in the lower temperature range. I have a batch started on Saturday that's only about 63F and it's going like mad (or was on Sunday).

Again, personally, I don't cut corners. I call kegging before it's time, cutting a serious corner. While it won't blow the keg, I can't imagine it being a good thing. For one thing, it could get seriously over-carbonated while in the keg. Especially if you give it the rest of the time it should have had in primary before you moved it to keg. Personally, I have enough fermenters so that I don't need to move a brew from one in order to fill it with what I'm brewing that night. Right now I have two 25L kegs allocated for aging beers. I have 3 tall 1/4bbl kegs for fermenters (a short 1/4bbl keg is being converted). I also have a 50L keg that's been converted into a fermenter for ~10 gallon batches (or 9 gallons out). I also have 6 1/6bbl kegs and one 3.875 gallon sanke keg all for meads and such. Easy enough to leave enough of them empty for transferring when it's time.

Again, don't cut corners, or rush things to next steps. Nothing great can come from it. At best, you won't get bad results.

I never said anything about rushing a brew. I'm just speaking from experience, and from what I've heard (The Brewing Network) and read. I had a tripel (9%) recently that was done fermenting in 7 days. It tasted great after 7 days. The only reason I left it in the fermenter longer was to cold crash it for ~1 week to help it clear more before I transferred to keg.

I personally wouldn't leave my beer, especially a 12% beer, on the yeast for more than 2-3 weeks, but from what I've read it, in Champagne anyways, it takes quite a bit longer than 8 weeks for autolysis to show up. I know Jamil Z recommends only leaving his Barleywine recipe on the yeast for 2 weeks. I've had a beer on the yeast for ~4 weeks before, and it turned out fine. However, other people claim to be able to taste a difference with a beer left on the yeast longer.