Hops Question

[rthiessen]

I am going to brew an all grain IPA today. I don't have the normal hops that I use in my regular IPA recipe and I have really liked commercial beers with Mosaic. But have never brewed with them before. Below is my standard IPA recipe and I like the Summit Hops that create a great citrus aroma and flavor. Any recommendations for using Simcoe together with Mosaic? Could I still use Magnum as the bittering hop? I like how clean it is from a bittering perspective. I noted below where I think the Simcoe and Mosaic would probably work best.

11lbs 2 Row
1.3lbs Briess Caramel 10 lovibond
1.3 oz Magnum 60 Min
.7 oz Magnum 45 min
.5 oz Summit 15 min(replace with Simcoe)
.5 oz Summit 5 min(replace with Simcoe)
1 oz Summit 0 min(replace with Mosaic)
1 oz Summit Dry Hop(replace with Mosaic)

Thanks,
Rob

 

[JordanKnudson]

Simcoe and Mosaic work great together. Your schedule looks good. If it were me, I would use them together throughout the process in basically equal measure, or perhaps with just a slightly heavier hand on the Simcoe.

And yes, you can still use Magnum as your bittering hop, of course! I agree, I like its nice clean bitterness, although actually in IPAs I do prefer something a little more aggressive. However, if you know you like Magnum for bittering your IPA, there's no reason you need to change it.

Not to mess with your recipe too much, but for me, that amount of crystal malt is too high. I'd keep it down closer to 5%. That's just me, though.

Good luck!

 

[IslandLizard]

+1 ^

Why 2 bittering additions? Just use one at 60' to get your IBUs.

Also consider moving your late hop additions up, and doing a hopstand after flameout. Modern day IPAs are brewed that way, borrowed from or inspired by the pros. There's lots of information about this process (also called whirlpool hops).

Like this:
11 lbs 2-Row
0.6 lbs Briess Caramel 10 lovibond (~5-6%)
1.7 oz Magnum 60 Min (to get your IBUs)
.5 oz Summit 5 min (replace with Simcoe)
.5 oz Summit 0 min* (replace with Simcoe)
1 oz Summit 30' Hopstand when wort has chilled to 180F (replace with Mosaic)
1 oz Summit Dry Hop in Primary 5 days before packaging (replace with Mosaic)

*Start chilling immediately down to around 180F for next addition.

During the 30' Hopstand, leave your kettle covered (lid) and stir the wort for 20-30" every 5 minutes without beating air into it. When the 30' are over resume chilling to pitching temps.

Don't do secondaries, try to avoid as much oxidation as possible after fermentation has ended and when packaging.

Another nice IPA bittering hop is Eureka. She's not neutral, like Magnum, but lends a nice dark fruit, herbal character that goes well with Simcoe and Mosaic. She's a bit dank too.

I get all my hops from YakimaValleyHops.com (larger selection, sells lower quantities (also 8oz, 2oz) lower shipping) and HopsDirect.com (some great deals and unique hops, whole pounds only, higher shipping).

When you brew lots of IPAs it beats buying them by the oz. from the LHBS. Always store in original bags in freezer. Squeeze as much air out and tape shut before storing.

 

[JordanKnudson]

Why 2 bittering additions? Just use one at 60' to get your IBUs.

My guess is that his Magnum's AA% is such that he would overshoot his target IBUs if he threw the whole 2 ounces in at 60 minutes, but he doesn't want to use, say, 1.6 oz @ 60 to get his desired IBUs and then have to worry about repackaging or wasting the remaining 0.4 ounces.

I know that in some of my early brews, I tried similar workarounds. While I've long since found different techniques that work better for me, it was a serviceable method, and I'd be willing to bet that's what OP is doing.

OP: IslandLizard's advice about the hopstand is definitely worth your time. It's a great way of getting IPA-level hop flavor and aroma into your beer.

 

[IslandLizard]

My guess is that his Magnum's AA% is such that he would overshoot his target IBUs if he threw the whole 2 ounces in at 60 minutes, but he doesn't want to use, say, 1.6 oz @ 60 to get his desired IBUs and then have to worry about repackaging or wasting the remaining 0.4 ounces.

I know that in some of my early brews, I tried similar workarounds. While I've long since found different techniques that work better for me, it was a serviceable method, and I'd be willing to bet that's what OP is doing.

OP: IslandLizard's advice about the hopstand is definitely worth your time. It's a great way of getting IPA-level hop flavor and aroma into your beer.

Yeah, when you buy hops in 1 oz bags, it doesn't seem to make all that much sense to save an open package. But it could be easily done, as I outlined before. Freezer storage become almost paramount.

I think after 6 brews I already bought hops by the pound (e.g., HopsDirect) after paying $3.50 for an oz of Simcoe and Amarillo (x6 for the IPA). Never looked back.

 

[rthiessen]

Good recommendations and feedback. Appreciate it, especially the Hop Stand schedule. I wasn't able to brew the other day but will definitely get this done this week. Thanks.