jbbalesky
Member
Going to brew a West Coast IPA using NZ hops, dry hop with Simco. Looking for recommendations. All grain, 60 min. Grain father.
Just created a recipe in Grainfather ! The hop schedule added all hops at 60 min. That can’t be right ? Any opinions
thanks
I would ask what is your goal? Set it and forget type set up? Are you going for maximum extraction? Do you want anectdotal experience or sciencey stuff?I am tryin a simple Juicy IPA, and most recipes call for dry hopping, some say 4 day some say 11, so my question is, do i drop them after its been fermenting 4 days or with 4 days left do I drop the hops?
I have 3 oz mosaics, 2 Citra an 2 cascade. I was going to dry hop when I rack into my fermenter at 7 days, is there a right or wrong here?.
Isn't your beer in a fermenter already?I was going to dry hop when I rack into my fermenter at 7 days,
Yes sorry I meant my secondaryIsn't your beer in a fermenter already?
Or do you mean racking to a "secondary" fermenter?
I would definitely skip the secondary. Especially with hoppy beers, unless you can do so with a closed transfer (under CO2), which needs additional equipment. Any oxidation is detrimental to your (hoppy) beer.
Without (semi-)closed transfer capabilities to prevent beer being exposed to air (oxygen), best is to add dry hops to your (primary) fermenter after fermentation has finished. Or when it's almost finished, with a few (3-5) points of attenuation left to go. Dry hop for 3-5 days, then package (keg or bottle).
Here's an interesting recent article on dry hopping methods:
http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/
Yeah, OK.Yes sorry I meant my secondary
Won't lifting the lid to put the hops in open it to oxygen?Yeah, OK.
Just don't use secondaries for dry hopping, unless you really know how to (and have the equipment) to do so, without introducing air (oxygen) to your beer.
Don't lift the lid. Or open it part ways and work quickly.Won't lifting the lid to put the hops in open it to oxygen?
gotchaDon't lift the lid. Or open it part ways and work quickly.
There are other ways. Pellets can be dropped through the airlock hole.
Then give your fermenter a gentle swirl once or twice a day.
If you have CO2 available (such as for kegging) you can stream CO2 into the headspace while adding your hops. Then flush or purge a few times, to reduce the amount of air that rode in.gotcha
thxIf you have CO2 available (such as for kegging) you can stream CO2 into the headspace while adding your hops. Then flush or purge a few times, to reduce the amount of air that rode in.
Just for that purpose, I drilled a 1" accessory hole into my bucket lids on the opposite side of the airlock hole. Through that hole I can add hops, sugar syrups, wood cubes/chips, fruit, etc. That while streaming in CO2 at a decent rate through the airlock hole. That method definitely reduces the amount of air ingress (oxygen being 21% of that). I then purge the headspace a few times for good measure.
Very interesting and informative read. I've favored shorter duration dry hopping periods (3-5 days), but this summation of studies shows how even shorter times and lower temperatures result in better outcomes. Thanks for providing the link.Isn't your beer in a fermenter already?
Or do you mean racking to a "secondary" fermenter?
I would definitely skip the secondary. Especially with hoppy beers, unless you can do so with a closed transfer (under CO2), which needs additional equipment. Any oxidation is detrimental to your (hoppy) beer.
Without (semi-)closed transfer capabilities to prevent beer being exposed to air (oxygen), best is to add dry hops to your (primary) fermenter after fermentation has finished. Or when it's almost finished, with a few (3-5) points of attenuation left to go. Dry hop for 3-5 days, then package (keg or bottle).
Here's an interesting recent article on dry hopping methods:
http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/
Enter your email address to join: