Honeywell Smart Valves

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Scribble

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
21
Reaction score
1
I need help figuring out what to do.

I bought a Honeywell Smart Gas Valve thinking I could fire it directly with a Hot Surface Igniter

I did not realize that it is an intermittent pilot valve. I also did not realize that the valve is 24v and the igniter is 120v. The HSI didn't come with a flame rod and I believe I need one of those too.

My plan was to hook the valve up to my BCS 460 in a Brutus style build.

Should I send the valve back and get one of the direct fired 120v valves, or can I make this work? I know I can get the BCS to fire the HSI, but I don't know how that would work with the Smart Valve.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Andy
 
You only need to return the hot surface ignitor and order this http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q3450C1185-Pilot-Burner-for-natural-gas-with-a-BCR-18-orifice-left-single-tip-style-C-mounting, swap orifice for .010" if using LP. This just plugs into the valve and operates on 24V from the valve. Note, when selecting a transformer you need a 40VA or heavier rating like 75VA because the hot surface igniter pulls more current than gas valve or spark ignition modules. You will still have a pilot burner and need to deal with mounting it, direct ignition is not what the gas valve was setup for.
 
Thanks a million Kladue. That is exactly what I needed to hear. Now I just need to figure out how to wire the thing to my BCS 460 with a quick disconnect.

Andy
 
You need the ignitor that matches WITH that valve.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/290626156886?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar (not %100 if this is the exact model you need)
The ignitor is not 120v it actually plugs into the valve its self. Using the voltage supplied to the valve.


As an HVAC tech i can say the valve is good, but...
When it fails it can become very finicky. Keep the manual with the trouble codes in it in order to help diagnose any problems. Also if it does fail do not be surprised if it flashes a code not in the book. I replaced a few (not so many to say its a bad valve) flashing codes that Honeywell tech support was baffled.

also there is a conversion kit needed for that valve to use LP...I am not sure if your valve came with it as part of the package.
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US/pages/product.aspx?cat=HonECC Catalog&pid=396021/U
 
You will need the Q3450 pilot assembly, the Q3400 package is just the retrofit HSI parts without the actual pilot burner.
The gas valve should come with a small manilla paper envelope with the conversion spring (faint red color) and the threaded cap that tightens the spring. It would be unusual to find one shipped without the conversion parts, same with the Q3450 pilot burner.
 
I just wanted to say that you guys are awesome. I ordered a Q3450 and returned a 24VAC transformer for a 40 VAC. I should be set now.

Thanks again,
Andy
 
I just wanted to say that you guys are awesome. I ordered a Q3450 and returned a 24VAC transformer for a 40 VAC. I should be set now.

Thanks again,
Andy

Did you order a 24VAC 40VA (Volt/Ampere) transformer or a 40 VAC as posted above?
The valves requiers 24VAC.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Now that you made me check and learn what all that means, I think the transformer I took back to RadioShack would have worked too.

It was 25Vac at 2.0 amps which would mean it is 50 VA right? Also for small transformers VA is essentially watts right?

Andy
 
Now that you made me check and learn what all that means, I think the transformer I took back to RadioShack would have worked too.

It was 25Vac at 2.0 amps which would mean it is 50 VA right?
Correct
Also for small transformers VA is essentially watts right?
Between you and me you can look at that way.
VA and power is the same thing only if no reactance (inductor or capacitor) is in the circuit. Your transformer has two in inductors, primary and secondary winding.
VA is the unit used for apparent power.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
What could I use as a cheap solution for quick disconnects for my Smart Valve power? I am running Cat5 connectors for my temperature gauges, but running power over Cat5 sounds like a bad idea.

Thanks again,
Andy
 
What could I use as a cheap solution for quick disconnects for my Smart Valve power? I am running Cat5 connectors for my temperature gauges, but running power over Cat5 sounds like a bad idea.

Thanks again,
Andy

Mabe not a bad idea.
Check the specsheet for current requierment.
 
I am having trouble getting my Honeywell Smart Valve to fire. I have it hooked up to a HOA switch and I am getting 24v to the valve in the on and auto position, but nothing is happening.

My switch is wired per this diagram of JonW.
file.php


I have 24V going into my SSR and I am getting 24V at the wiring harness going into the Honewell valve.

It is wired to output0 on my BCS 460. I was under the impression that with the BCS and an SSR I did not need to wire the thermostat/pressure switch wire on the Honeywell valve if I turn the Ignition System Control Switch to the Off position.

Any help is appreciated.
Andy
 
The HSI is not turning on to light the pilot. I checked the ohms of the HSI and it is good.

I'm wondering if I should hook up the thermostat wire to the SSR and just hook up the 24V hot to constant 24v power. Or just hook them both up to SSR? In the troubleshooting guide it says that you should have 24v in the hot and thermostat wires. I just thought if you turned off the ignition control switch you wouldn't have to hook up the thermostat wire.

Thanks
 
I've got it working now. I hooked the 24v hot up to constant power and the 24v thermostat wire up to the SSR. I abandoned the cat 5 cable too. Something about the strands was making it screwy. I had power going to the 24v coming out of the jack but nothing on the other end of the patch cable. The common and the 24v was on on cat5 just fine, but once I added the thermostat wire things got screwy. I guess I could have used two cat5 cables but that kind of defeats the purpose.

Andy
 
Back
Top