honestly...this seriosly not serious....

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bracconiere

Jolly Alcoholic - In Remembrance 2023
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so i just spent $80 on a couple ball lock bulk heads, floating dip tube. couple bev out conectors for closed tranfers...not for o2, but saving co2, lol

i'm an anxious person, and want to know sooners then friday when the stuff shows up if this damn milk can lid will hold 10+ psi....but the hole i got drilled in it now only holds 2-3psi, because i can hear it hissing out where i cramed the tubing into it....i stuck a barbed fitting into the under side hoping it seal better when i pulled it up from the under side. no luck it just holds the said 2-3 psi.....i'm hoping the bulkheads with bolts and nuts and o-rings seal better...but eager to find out how much the lid can handle? any ideas? 5/8" OD tubing. 5/8" hole but it's kinda lose, and only holding a few psi?
 
I'm sure that an actual bulkhead will work better than jamming some tubing in there. 🤣
Patience!
:mug:


yeah, gotta wait till friday though! and my current beer will done fermenting by then....my co2 tanks getting empty, i don't have any barley to malt....

whoa! you know the 3 psi it was holding ain't as big a joke as i was thinking...be careful when un clamping a lid even at 3psi kiddies! that almost hurt me, i was just expecting a bit of hissing, damn thing blew!
 
whoa! you know the 3 psi it was holding ain't as big a joke as i was thinking...be careful when un clamping a lid

Messin' with compressed fluids is NEVER a trivial matter.

Just had a scare 2 days ago with a portable "pancake" compressor. I was adjusting cold weather tire pressures. The compressor motor is supposed to cut out when tank pressure reaches ~130 psi. I had output pressure set to about 50 psi (desired tire pressure 36 psi), and had turned the motor on and went to inflate the tire. Imagine my surprise when the PRV (set point 145 psi) blew and allowed the 3 cu. ft. tank to discharge.

It scares me to imagine the damage that could happen not only in this case, but also the way some folks here cavalierly treat kegs and unitanks without PRVs.
 
It scares me to imagine the damage that could happen not only in this case, but also the way some folks here cavalierly treat kegs and unitanks without PRVs.


i'm a little nervous spunding in this milk can now after popping the lid at 3psi....hate to think of doing it on acident when it's sitting at 10psi..trying to devise a saftey thing for it...i'm hoping the lid if it even holds 10psi, would start leaking as a prv....but still would like to not accidently pop the top when it's got pressure....

i was trying to look inito what people do with their brewbuckets, because they seem to have a similar lid to this milk can....
 
I know what you mean. I spund just about every brew, but a spunding valve is NOT a proper PRV. A few months ago I added a 7.5 gallon kegmenter to my mix of equipment so I could use it as a pressure vessel to spund batches from a non-pressurized stainless brew vessel. The TC lid has gas-in, beer-out, and PRV posts, but I wanted to add a manifold to increase the utilization of the device. The first item on the manifold was a dedicated PRV/vacuum breaker upstream of the spund.
 
know what you mean. I spund just about every brew, but a spunding valve is NOT a proper PRV.


that's what i was thinking...i'll have to think more about it! i'm pretty sure if a 16 gallon SS milk can got over pressurized enough to blow, it would be some serious stuff.....
 
.i'm hoping the lid if it even holds 10psi, would start leaking as a prv....but still would like to not accidently pop the top when it's got pressure....
Not a solution to helping hold the lid on. But as a better reminder than a bungee cord perhaps this would work better
5FE8392E-D0DE-45D7-8B08-1FF3D48430F2.jpeg
 
To remind myself to not loosen a TC clamp BEFORE depressurizing, I've started looping a thin electrical zip tie through the clamp eye-hole and the PRV pull ring. That way it's impossible to remove the TC clamp without pulling the PRV ring, or having to purposely cutting the zip tie.
 
To remind myself to not loosen a TC clamp BEFORE depressurizing, I've started looping a thin electrical zip tie through the clamp eye-hole and the PRV pull ring. That way it's impossible to remove the TC clamp without pulling the PRV ring, or having to purposely cutting the zip tie.


got any ideas how i could setup a jig on the lid clamps, so that they don't just pop all open at once? i think if they just loosened slowly they would let the psi out slowly enough so the lid didn't 'pop'....
 
Are you using a spunding valve to set your pressure? Could you just open the spunding valve all the way so it releases all pressure first?


i just have a blow off tube right now...won't have the ball lock bulk heads til' i guess friday...and i'm not sure if the lid will hold more then 5psi...

the hope is to pressure ferment, and use residule co2 to carb, and transfer to a keg with a floating dip tube in the fermenter.....but really, i've fermented for 20 years with just an airlock, works...but reading about everybody else with their closed transfers, other things....trying to spice things up, keep it interesting.

(i think i'm not the only one that used a siphon to keg, and no body else is willing to admit it lol)
 
Lol. I still siphon to a keg. Working on all the components to change that myself but currently all my beer has been transferred via siphon from an open 6.5gallon plastic bucket to an open keg. So your not alone lolol


uh huh, that's what i thought! but it's kinda like the 1 gallon brews unite thread coming off as deffensive! (and actually, i've taken to using a cleaned santized sump pump to fill two 5 gallon kegs! but it takes me over an ounce of co2 to purge the head space, and another ounce to carb it up per keg...so hoping pressure ferment, closed transfer, cheapen up my serving line? we'll see! if it works at all, it's for fun! :mug:)
 
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