Homebrewing myths that need to die

[cheezydemon3]

Myth: You need a beard to attract beer faries

 

[kombat]

Myth: It is important to aerate your wort before pitching dry yeast.

Fact: Aeration is only required when pitching liquid yeasts (whether built up from a starter or directly from the smack pack/vial).

 

[Walking_Target]

Mead takes years to age before it is good.

Egads! Some meads benefit from aging, but plenty you don't want to get 2 years old. They start to.... taste funny.


I'll throw in my $0.02 about the cost. Even if you buy a $2000 setup, eventually you will break even on the cost of producing rather than buying commercial; and if you're like me you tend to subtract a large portion of your equipment cost from your 'hobby' budget.

Brewing has definitely not been and is still not my most expensive hobby. I have about $1500 in paintball equipment and $500 in western european armor sitting in my basement; $400 in archery equipment, $300 in practice swords and etc. Don't even get me started on the tools to go along with all of those

My brewing gear, including the keggerator setup i've just bought, has been about $750-$800 so far.

I've produced 6 batches of beer since August of last year (staring another today), plus about 10 gallons of mead.

Each 5.5 gallon batch costs about $25 to produce and makes about two and a half cases. A *cheap* BMC style case around here runs around $25.

Mead costs me on average about $8 per gallon to produce and yields 5 750ml bottles per gallon finished product (give or take a bit for 'testing') A cheap bottle of wine around here is about $10.

This means a net savings over buying commercial of aprx. $225 on the beer and $420 on the mead. This doesn't include labor cost or some incidental expenses (sanitizer, corks) but it still means big savings compared to commercial.


Now, back on topic.

A myth that absolutely must die is that you can't produce good beer from a kit.

Not great beer, but definitely good beer.

Especially with the kits being offered through places like OntarioBeerKegs or Austin Home Brew, they're a great way to start for new brewers.

 

[progmac]

Myth: It is important to aerate your wort before pitching dry yeast.

Fact: Aeration is only required when pitching liquid yeasts (whether built up from a starter or directly from the smack pack/vial).

yeast is yeast

 

[kombat]

yeast is yeast

Are you posting this comment as a "myth" or as a counter to my own comment?

Because the notion that "yeast is yeast" is indeed definitely a myth.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Are you posting this comment as a "myth" or as a counter to my own comment?

Because the notion that "yeast is yeast" is indeed definitely a myth.

I had not heard that dry yeast does not need aeration.

Let me state that more clearly. I thought that, while yeasts differ, they ALL benefit from aeration.

 

[Walking_Target]

Ahh... This one is easily answered by biochemistry. All yeast does benefit from initial aeration to get in into a reproductive phase prior to the anaerobic fermentation producing alcohol.

Large liquid starters really require it *less* than dry or yeast that is pitched from a smack pack or vial; the large starter already has tons of active, happy yeast cells.

 

[rexbanner]

I've brewed hundreds of gallons of beer and saved a lot of money, and I own every brewing gadget you can imagine, including a 1 bbl electric herms system. If you own a grain mill, reuse yeast, and don't buy bottles you will save money.

Myths:

Champagne yeast creates bottle bombs
Time is required for beer. Properly executed, most average gravity beers can be ready to drink in 7-14 days.
Real candi syrup can be made at home
Open fermentation doesn't do anything on a homebrew scale
All saison yeasts need to be fermented hot (3711 does best at 62 IMO)
Yeast needs to be washed before reuse (Chris White said unnecessary and not worth the risk, I agree)

 

[Walking_Target]

Disagree on the Candi Syrup point. You just need the right ingredients and some patience for experimentation

 

[kombat]

I had not heard that dry yeast does not need aeration.

As I understand it, this myth has only been fairly recently "busted." The cite is the FAQ on the Lallemand Danstar website:

http://www.danstaryeast.com/frequently-asked-questions

I always aerate my wort when using liquid yeast. Do I need to aerate the wort before pitching dry yeast?

No, there is no need to aerate the wort but it does not harm the yeast either. During its aerobic production, dry yeast accumulates sufficient amounts of unsaturated fatty acids and sterols to produce enough biomass in the first stage of fermentation. The only reason to aerate the wort when using wet yeast is to provide the yeast with oxygen so that it can produce sterols and unsaturated fatty acids which are important parts of the cell membrane and therefore essential for biomass production.

Let me state that more clearly. I thought that, while yeasts differ, they ALL benefit from aeration.

As I read it, the aeration is necessary to build up the cell count to a level sufficient to ferment the beer. But a sachet of dry yeast already has enough viable cells, so there is no need to build it up further, thus, no need for aeration.

 

[cheezydemon3]

As I understand it, this myth has only been fairly recently "busted." The cite is the FAQ on the Lallemand Danstar website:

http://www.danstaryeast.com/frequently-asked-questions





As I read it, the aeration is necessary to build up the cell count to a level sufficient to ferment the beer. But a sachet of dry yeast already has enough viable cells, so there is no need to build it up further, thus, no need for aeration.

That is interesting! Thanks for sharing it. By there logic, if enough yeast is pitched, liquid or dry, aeration is not needed.

 

[user 19629]

Often repeated, but as far as I know never proven:
"You need to use less priming sugar when priming a keg. It has something to do with the head space."

 

[unionrdr]

Nope,not true. Regardless of dry or liquid,yeast need oxygen for the reproductive phase better known as the lag phase. That's all the extra cells in a dry yeast packet are there for. Now moving beyond that thought,I aerate as well as possible atm. & rehydrate yeast & get it close to wort temp so it doesn't shock. This can greatly reduce time needed for reproduction,& leave so much more healthy,viable yeast cells that a blow off is needed. Now you know.

 

[unionrdr]

Often repeated, but as far as I know never proven:
"You need to use less priming sugar when priming a keg. It has something to do with the head space."

You don't prime when kegging. That's the co2 cylinder's job. But some do use kegs for primary & secondary. Even priming in the keg. But it'd be exactly the same as in the UK where they have that plastic barrel on the counter to prime the beer in. Kinda like a poorman's keg. Crap I says. I'll bottle it,thank you,& won't loose carbonation as the bottle empties. Unlike priming in kegs or plastic barrels.

 

[PseudoChef]

Nope,not true. Regardless of dry or liquid,yeast need oxygen for the reproductive phase better known as the lag phase. That's all the extra cells in a dry yeast packet are there for. Now moving beyond that thought,I aerate as well as possible atm. & rehydrate yeast & get it close to wort temp so it doesn't shock. This can greatly reduce time needed for reproduction,& leave so much more healthy,viable yeast cells that a blow off is needed. Now you know.

What does healthy and viable yeast have to do with a blow-off? That gives a perfect example of another myth: blow-off is indicative of a "healthy" fermentation. Also, you do want some reproduction as that is when some wanted esters are produced.

You don't prime when kegging. That's the co2 cylinder's job. But some do use kegs for primary & secondary. Even priming in the keg. But it'd be exactly the same as in the UK where they have that plastic barrel on the counter to prime the beer in. Kinda like a poorman's keg. Crap I says. I'll bottle it,thank you,& won't loose carbonation as the bottle empties. Unlike priming in kegs or plastic barrels.

I prime all my kegs, and yes, it does require less priming sugar. And no, it doesn't lose carbonation as it empties.

 

[kombat]

I aerate as well as possible atm. & rehydrate yeast & get it close to wort temp so it doesn't shock. This can greatly reduce time needed for reproduction,& leave so much more healthy,viable yeast cells that a blow off is needed.

Ooo ooo... that reminds me of another myth:

"A fermentation that is so aggressive as to require a blowoff tube is a good thing."

Not always true. It often means you're either fermenting too warm, or overpitched. In either case, it's a recipe for off-flavors.

 

[TyTanium]

My beer is on par with commercial beer.

Definitely a myth. Mine is consistently mediocre.

 

[homebrewdad]

Ooo ooo... that reminds me of another myth:

"A fermentation that is so aggressive as to require a blowoff tube is a good thing."

Not always true. It often means you're either fermenting too warm, or overpitched. In either case, it's a recipe for off-flavors.

Agree with this, but it really does depend on the yeast. Some are way more aggressive/messy than others.

 

[PseudoChef]

Agree with this, but it really does depend on the yeast. Some are way more aggressive/messy than others.

And the wort composition.

 

[BigJack]

You don't prime when kegging. That's the co2 cylinder's job.

Speak for yourself.

I'm using a paintball can for my keg system (I like the portability) and force carbing isn't practical when you only have 24 ounces of co2 on hand.

And even if or when I get around to buying a 5 or 20 pound canister and new regulator, I personally think some styles benefit from "bottle conditioning" in the keg.

 

[user 144271]

Nope,not true. Regardless of dry or liquid,yeast need oxygen for the reproductive phase better known as the lag phase. That's all the extra cells in a dry yeast packet are there for. Now moving beyond that thought,I aerate as well as possible atm. & rehydrate yeast & get it close to wort temp so it doesn't shock. This can greatly reduce time needed for reproduction,& leave so much more healthy,viable yeast cells that a blow off is needed. Now you know.

As I understand it, this myth has only been fairly recently "busted." The cite is the FAQ on the Lallemand Danstar website:

http://www.danstaryeast.com/frequently-asked-questions

I guess you should email Danstar and tell them they are wrong about their product.

 

[progmac]

As I understand it, this myth has only been fairly recently "busted." The cite is the FAQ on the Lallemand Danstar website:

http://www.danstaryeast.com/frequently-asked-questions

I guess you should email Danstar and tell them they are wrong about their product.

I always aerate my wort when using liquid yeast. Do I need to aerate the wort before pitching dry yeast?

No, there is no need to aerate the wort but it does not harm the yeast either. During its aerobic production, dry yeast accumulates sufficient amounts of unsaturated fatty acids and sterols to produce enough biomass in the first stage of fermentation. The only reason to aerate the wort when using wet yeast is to provide the yeast with oxygen so that it can produce sterols and unsaturated fatty acids which are important parts of the cell membrane and therefore essential for biomass production.

If the slurry from dry yeast fermentation is re-pitched from one batch of beer to another, the wort has to be aerated as with any liquid yeast.

Looks like I was wrong about that. I find this evidence sufficient to change my position.

 

[user 19629]

You don't prime when kegging. That's the co2 cylinder's job. But some do use kegs for primary & secondary. Even priming in the keg. But it'd be exactly the same as in the UK where they have that plastic barrel on the counter to prime the beer in. Kinda like a poorman's keg. Crap I says. I'll bottle it,thank you,& won't loose carbonation as the bottle empties. Unlike priming in kegs or plastic barrels.

Lot's of people prime with sugar in corny kegs.

 

[mike_in_ak]

.
Real candi syrup can be made at home

Please explain.

 

[Walking_Target]

I still believe in moderate aeration, simply for the fact that it has always brought about a more rapid onset of fermentation for me than by not aerating.

I hold my position for the reason that providing aeration simply by letting it drop from the pot, to the funnel, to the carboy is not only really, really easy, but that one cannot rely on the viability of many store bought yeasts. I almost always use a large starter (1L) just to ensure that the yeast is active and then use the above aeration to ensure the yeast takes hold in the wort as soon as is possible.

 

[homebrewdad]

I still believe in moderate aeration, simply for the fact that it has always brought about a more rapid onset of fermentation for me than by not aerating.

I hold my position for the reason that providing aeration simply by letting it drop from the pot, to the funnel, to the carboy is not only really, really easy, but that one cannot rely on the viability of many store bought yeasts. I almost always use a large starter (1L) just to ensure that the yeast is active and then use the above aeration to ensure the yeast takes hold in the wort as soon as is possible.

Hrm. I'm a liquid yeast guy, but I know that dry yeasts don't need starters. Also, a 1L starter isn't really big.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Wow! Finally.

I never aerate and wondered why my beers turn out fantastic!lol.

I was trying hard to eff up my beer, but it always knocked people socks off.

 

[Walking_Target]

Please explain.

True Belgian candi syrup is a product of beet sugar being caramelized and depending on who you talk to, inverted; though inversion is a key part of the process and does not need to be done separately.

Now, you can't make "Belgian" candi sugar at home, unless your home happens to be in Belgium.

The two big points, it needs to be beet sugar in the eyes of most purists, and it needs to be cooked in one go, no inverting, then storing, then cooking it to consistency.

For all that, i'd rather buy the stuff at $6 a pound from OBK.

 

[hunter_le five]

If you capitalize those costs and depreciate them you will be profitableipe:

That's how I justified the new brew rig... and the old brew rig... and the kegerator... and the new kegs.... and the new kettles.... sh!t, I'm starting to think I'm a lousy accountant....

 

[Walking_Target]

Hrm. I'm a liquid yeast guy, but I know that dry yeasts don't need starters. Also, a 1L starter isn't really big.

Typing failure, i meant 2L or half a gallon. I do use 1l starters for my 3g meads though.

And I agree, fresh yeast doesn't need a starter. Until recently though, i was buying from local stores and couldn't rely on proper storage, especially for mead yeast.

Thanks to making such starters, especially for old mead yeast, i've yet to have a stuck fermentation.