HLT. Anyone try this?

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creekrat

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I am in the process of designing a HERMS setup and was curious if anyone had used an electric heating element with a tri-clover adapter in a sanke keg that is upside down? As in cutting a hole in the bottom and the heating element sticking straight up? With the right element I could see how the element near the center of your herms coil would allow for more thourough heating of the water and therefore the wort going through your coil.
 
Haven't tried that but am curious to hear the responses. While sitting here in Afghanistan thinking up projects I've put together (on paper) a HERMS in a small tank with just that. I've also been wondering about taking a cooling coil and submerging it to see it it's possible to use the same tank as both hot and cold. The idea would be while you're boiling, swap out or cool the water, then chill it further. Could all be fever addled dreams to....
 
I don't think there's any technical reason it wouldn't work. The only gotcha is that you must at least have enough water to cover the element at all times. So if it sticks up to the 6 gallon level, you won't be able to drain it past 6 gallons and still have the element on.
 
The only gotcha is that you must at least have enough water to cover the element at all times. So if it sticks up to the 6 gallon level, you won't be able to drain it past 6 gallons and still have the element on.

this. That's an aweful lot of water to waste otherwise.
 
I don't think there's any technical reason it wouldn't work. The only gotcha is that you must at least have enough water to cover the element at all times. So if it sticks up to the 6 gallon level, you won't be able to drain it past 6 gallons and still have the element on.

Yes, that's been my experience. In my last HLT, that is exactly how it was set up and I had to turn the element off when I started draining the HLT at the beginning of the sparge. I then went with a horizontal element, as low as I could, but it still needs over 3 gallons of water to cover the element. It's better than twice that much, though!
 
That is currently the design I am choosing, with the HLT upside down and the element sitting horizontal. It takes a bit more water, but after the mash water is drained, and you are adding sparge, the heater can be turned off anyway.

I HIGHLY recommend a Stainless Steel Float Switch, to prevent accidental burnout on your element. Here is one example. There are several.

China_magnetic_float_switch_stainless_steel_horizontal_type_SF1412012881551569.jpg
 
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