Help with wiring replacing minifridge thermostat with Inkbird ITC-1000

[cstalt]

I have browsed other threads regarding the ITC-1000 but they all show wiring for a mini fridge that has an internal light, and thus more wiring. Because my fridge (GE Model No. SFR03BAVBBB) doesn't have a light, the only wiring to old thermostat are a black wire, white wire, and green ground (see image below).

I initially assumed that the black was hot and the white was neutral, but others have pointed out that it is likely just hot in and out, with no neutral.

My question is, is there a way to wire up my Inkbird to directly replace this box? I don't want the inkbird on the outside like others have done. I want it as a drop-in solution for a few different reasons. If I have to pull a neutral line through, that's not the worse thing ever.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[day_trippr]

[Moderator Note]
Below is the answer @day_trippr provided a few days ago.
It's inserted here for providing the correct framework and completeness:

Normally one just sets the oem thermostat to its coldest setting and then controls the fridge by its line cord by wiring it through the Cold relay of the add-on unit (in your case, the ITC1000). There are plenty of how-to's on the web for that.

But if the oem thermostat won't allow the unit to get cold enough one can bypass the thermostat.
In that case:
- The green wire is a safety ground and can be left exactly where it is, no reason at all to do anything else.
- The black and white wires with the spade crimped ends are the in and out through that mechanical thermostat.

Two choices from here, both take the oem thermostat out of the equation:
- If you remove those from the thermostat and connect them together, you can then control the mini-fridge from its line cord in the conventional manner.
- Or, you can remove the wires from the thermostat and run them to the Cold relay of your ITC1000, leave the original line cord intact and plugged into an outlet. The only reason to go with this option is if the fridge has interior lighting that you want to keep fully operable, otherwise the added complexity of running wires from the controller into the fridge isn't worth the effort.​

[/Moderator Note]

Sure, you can mount the ITC-1000 inside. You can even power it using the wires you'll remove from that mechanical thermostat: one of them is 120VAC "hot" - probably the black - while the other is the "switched hot" to the compressor. You'll need to figure which is which.

Use that hot lead to both power the ITC's internals and use it on one side of the Cool relay. The other Cool relay connection is where you'd connect the wire to the compressor (again, likely the white wire).

As you said, the only thing missing is a neutral connection to complete the power to the ITC-1000's guts. Probably have to tap into wherever the line cord terminates then run the neutral inside the cabinet to the ITC...

Cheers!

 

[cstalt]

Sure, you can mount the ITC-1000 inside. You can even power it using the wires you'll remove from that mechanical thermostat: one of them is 120VAC "hot" - probably the black - while the other is the "switched hot" to the compressor. You'll need to figure which is which.

Use that hot lead to both power the ITC's internals and use it on one side of the Cool relay. The other Cool relay connection is where you'd connect the wire to the compressor (again, likely the white wire).

As you said, the only thing missing is a neutral connection to complete the power to the ITC-1000's guts. Probably have to tap into wherever the line cord terminates then run the neutral inside the cabinet to the ITC...

Cheers!

Great, thanks. So it sounds like it doesn't matter which of the two holes the switched hot and hot are plugged in to for the Cool relay? Is there any use for the green ground on the ITC? If not, I think I can repurpose this cable as neutral. It already just runs from a ground terminal near the compressor on the back. I could attached it to the neutral used by the compressor instead.... Let me know if that sounds alright. Thanks!

 

[day_trippr]

The relays are open ended on both sides - you can put the hot on either pole and pick the switched "output" from the other pole.
Indeed, you can use them for anything that doesn't exceed the unit's current rating (10A for either relay) - there's nothing pre-committed.

Can't go along with the idea of using a green wire as a current carrying conductor. Bad juju...

Cheers!

 

[cstalt]

The relays are open ended on both sides - you can put the hot on either pole and pick the switched "output" from the other pole.
Indeed, you can use them for anything that doesn't exceed the unit's current rating (10A for either relay) - there's nothing pre-committed.

Can't go along with the idea of using a green wire as a current carrying conductor. Bad juju...

Cheers!

I understand your aversion... I just confirmed though, the ground is the same gauge as the other two wires. It is a very low power fridge.

 

[Summoner12]

yeah, like others have said, you just need to connect the black and white wires to the relay connections on the inkbird. then use the green wire for ground, if you have one....

I just did this setup to my mini fridge, but the thermostat had a lamp connected to it. this gave me a hot, neutral and ground near by. I then ran a three wire cord from the original wires to the inkbird. so the cord ran the white (neutral) the inkbird needs, and then used the black (hot) wire as a hot and as a return the green wire for the compressor power.

for you, I wouldn't be too comfy using the green as a neutral or hot wire unless you make some good markings as to what each color is.

 

[cstalt]

yeah, like others have said, you just need to connect the black and white wires to the relay connections on the inkbird. then use the green wire for ground, if you have one....

I just did this setup to my mini fridge, but the thermostat had a lamp connected to it. this gave me a hot, neutral and ground near by. I then ran a three wire cord from the original wires to the inkbird. so the cord ran the white (neutral) the inkbird needs, and then used the black (hot) wire as a hot and as a return the green wire for the compressor power.

for you, I wouldn't be too comfy using the green as a neutral or hot wire unless you make some good markings as to what each color is.

yeah, because my fridge doesn’t have a light I had no neutral up there. So what I ended up doing was using the ground as neutral for the inkbird. The inkbird itself uses very little power so the load through the ground-cum-neutral is minimal.

on the back of the unit I had to open up the box next to the compressor and rewire quite a bit. Had to attach the ground to the neutral from mains power. I taped up the ground wire with a note so anyone else would know it’s now a neutral line.